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Old 12-01-2017, 10:33 AM   #1
dmascheck
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MoRryde suspension question?

I have a 2006 King of the Road with MoRryde suspension. Not sure which number. First I'm having a problem finding a number to get any information about my unit.

The questions are:

1. Can you use one of the plastic ramps to lift a tire up to change out a flat?? OR do you still need to use a hydraulic jack?? IF you use a Jack, do you lift the frame or the axle with the flat tire?

2. I need to lift one side at a time to get access to two of the grease zerks on the center. I plan on putting 90 degree zerks in so I can get easier access. Again, where do you lift the trailer to get access. One axle at a time, or lift the trailer frame?

If you have a number to MoRryde please send it!
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Old 12-01-2017, 02:08 PM   #2
wingnut60
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Need to know more about your type of Morryde suspension--do you have leaf springs or not? From your note of zerks, I suspect you may have the Morryde RE suspension--Rubber Enhanced--in the center section. But again, there are a couple different RE units.
If you have leaf springs, you can use a plastic ramp. If no leaf springs, NO.
If you use a jack, choose a bottle jack that will fit under the leaf spring mount--if you lift o the axle housing, you take a chance of bending the axle.
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Old 12-02-2017, 07:17 AM   #3
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It has leaf springs. Can't see a number on them. Having trouble finding a good phone number to call for the system. I also have their king pin box which is excellent!

I pull gooseneck trailers hauling hay and never would have thought there is that much difference! Makes a world of difference and glad the trailer came with the upgrade!

The trailer was a lucky find, for someone that knows little about RV's. It was only used twice due to the owner passing away! It still has the protective plastic on the carpet.

The Wife and I are planning our first trip after Christmas, so I want everything to be checked out before pulling to San Antonio. Planning on a close trip first to work out all the bugs!

I'm waiting for a time to get the bearings repacked and of course I want to grease the suspension. Some I was able to grease, others wouldn't take grease or the Zerk was impossible to get to without lifting the trailer. I will replace the hard to get to ones with 90's.

I notice Blue Ox has a trailer saver? Worth the investment?
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Old 12-02-2017, 12:01 PM   #4
wingnut60
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A trailer saver is only needed when it is needed....
It will catch the trailer pin if you fail to latch the hitch or high hitch, saving the truck bed rails. You may have noticed some pickups with the 'ouch' dents about 2' from the bed end....double-checking with a test pull before raising the legs off the ground more than an inch will also save the bed.
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:12 AM   #5
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Never noticed it, but we are newbies! Just trying to head off a problem. Raising the Jacks an inch makes sense and an easy protection!
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:23 PM   #6
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I have a related question about hydraulic bottle jacks. Yesterday I discovered the RV's rear wheel hub on the driver side has way too much slop and needs attention. I didn't catch this while checking out the RV prior to purchase as all wheels were solidly on the ground in an RV park and I had no way to lift any wheel. Where I parked the rig on our property was just enough off level that the rear stabilizer jacks lifted the driver side wheels off the ground just enough that I could spin both wheels and noticed the slop then. This rig has Kodiak disc brakes but I don't know yet what brand/type hubs it has but will know soon. I won't tow it again until this problem is taken care of.

I plan to get a 20-ton bottle jack for this purpose so I can safely raise any wheel but would appreciate any suggestions and/or tips others have, such as any bottle jack accessories or items that help ensure the jack cylinder doesn't move from where it's set to lift, once it gets weight on it. I presume I'll also want/need some sort of base material for the jack to sit on and help stabilize it so it doesn't lean when weight is applied, but I'm also thinking some sort of cradle or flat plate for the top of the cylinder to help keep it from shifting would be advisable. Any ideas or safety measures that should be considered and followed will be appreciated.
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Old 12-03-2017, 01:21 PM   #7
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A 20-ton jack is way overkill, and may be too tall to fit under the spring mounting plate.
Not sure what size mine is, but consider that you may have 20k gross, less the pin weight on the front jacks, leaving you with about 16k to lift / 4 wheels=about 4k wheel. Even a 10ton is overkill. Get one that will fit under for sure, and size it about 50% over.
As to the base--it will be pretty stable by itself on a flat concrete surface, so OK with that situation. However, if the surface is soft/dirt/gravel whatever, you will need a flat piece of something that won't bend/break/crack--and, then you have to think about the thickness of the support piece that causes the jack to sit higher and may not fit under the spring plate. If the surface is badly soft, the jack may just push the support/jack downward before lifting the wheel.
Always chock the opposite wheels, or have it hooked to the tow vehicle for safety.
The several trailers I have had and used bottle jacks--the biggest problem was always fitting it under the spring plate--placing it on the spring plate usually turned out very stable without thought to have some sort of cradle for it, which would also take away from the space in which to spot the jack.
Kodiaktrailer.com is the Kodiak website--they are located on the west loop I-820 in Fort Worth. 817-284-5141. Several threads/posts about needing to lube the caliper slides and torque the mounting bolts correctly.
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:26 PM   #8
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Wingnut is correct, I always carried a 5 ton small short bottle jack. Had a piece of 2x10 wood as the jack base if I was on anything other than concrete or something rock solid. Mounting the jack to fit into the spring purch was all I ever needed, as your only lifting the trailer an inch or so off the ground at that one wheel. I kept the trailer hooked to the truck and blocked the other side wheels if I had the truck unhooked.
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Old 12-04-2017, 03:56 AM   #9
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Actually Northern tools has a 50 ton jack that is a very low profile. I'd prefer to have more than less.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:10 AM   #10
wingnut60
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There you go--you can lift the whole trailer AND truck....
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:59 AM   #11
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I’ll openly admit it’s gross overkill. I use my truck for many tasks besides pulling a fifth wheel. When I saw the jack and it’s compact size, it was a must have. While not for everyone, for me it’s great.
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Old 12-04-2017, 10:03 AM   #12
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Thank you all. That's some very good advice and much appreciated. I can already tell this website is a good one to be a member of. Once I get more experience under my belt I hope to be able to pay it forward by helping other newbies like I am now. And dmascheck, I apologize for somewhat hijacking your thread. I just thought your comments about jacking up your RV would be a good fit with my questions. Sorry if I took it a different direction than you intended. I generally try to be considerate of those things in forums like this.
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Old 12-04-2017, 01:38 PM   #13
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Not a problem at all. I'm new like you. Trying to learn and this site has been way better than others!
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Old 12-04-2017, 04:36 PM   #14
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I couldn't agree more - the members here have been great. Being a Ram diesel truck owner for several years I liken this site to the main one I visit for Ram trucks, named dieseltruckresource.com (DTR). DTR has been a solid resource for me for years and I've been able to pass on some of what I've learned to other "newbies", which makes me feel good to be able to help others.
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Old 12-05-2017, 09:26 AM   #15
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Hijacking threads is part of the RV life--makes for interesting forums and often a good tip is dropped on us....that has nothing to do with the thread topic, kind of like this post.
Glad to have you with us.
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Old 12-05-2017, 11:23 AM   #16
dmascheck
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Just got off the phone with MoRryde about their suspension. I now know to service their suspension, you need to lift the frame of the suspension off the ground to service it. Learn something new everyday!

Dodge's have a bad track record at our company, I do confess we are talking about gas and not diesel. Hard for me to change off from my Chevy! I drove a Fod Platinum and King Ranch. Loved the interior and some bells and whistles of the King Ranch, but the lag on acceleration, the harder steering and rougher ride easily brought me back to the Chevy High Country. So far no regrets!

Since I drive mine daily more than pulling the ride it'smportant! Pulling my 16,500# trailer is no problem and I added air bags because I went with Heavy 3/4 ton. When I back up to the fifth wheel and attach, there is no sag on the truck, but I add air anyway. The MoRryde king pin box and MoRyde suspension is awesome on a 2006 trailer! Never knew it made that much difference. I pulled the trailer home and the next day pulled a gooseneck with hay.....Night and day difference! I initially thought about converting to a goosenseck, no way!(GRIN)
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:56 PM   #17
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I bought a 20-ton bottle jack and a pair of 12-ton jack stands from Harbor Freight this past weekend. The bottle jack was on sale for $39.99 and the jack stands, while not on sale, were $89.99. I also bought a couple more of their solid rubber wheel chocks - the 4 I bought for the RV earlier worked so well I decided to get 2 more for the truck or Jeep Grand Cherokee, as needed. The bottle jack will fit under the leaf spring plates and being creative with blocks underneath it, could be used to lift the frame, if needed and provided I can find a good place to let it make contact.

My next suspension maintenance purchase will be buying 12 each 45-degree angled grease zerks to replace the straight zerks in the leaf spring eyes. That way I can more easily get my grease gun nozzle on them to keep them lubed properly. Based on the appearance of the current zerks I'm wondering how long it's been since they last got any grease - I don't relish the idea of having to replace any of them any time soon.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:16 PM   #18
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I installed the 90 degree zerks too, but the suspension moved just enough to knock the heads off. Had to dig out the broken off zerk and go back to the straight ones. Had to remove the wheels to make access for the greese gun with the straight ones, not with the angled ones.
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:35 AM   #19
dmascheck
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I can get to all but the inner zeros. I asked the company if you could use the 45’s and they said yes. A couple of mine grease will not go into, but they said sometimes when you lift the trailer it helps.

I have a 2006 King of the Road with the suspension and there king pin box. I was amazed how the trailer pulled the first time I took it home.

I know they say never lift by the tube axle.
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Old 12-13-2017, 08:10 AM   #20
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Yes that is correct, I lifted mine by the spring purch plate. I had two fittings that would not take grease with the weight of the trailer on the wheels, but once lifted they accepted the grease.
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