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12-16-2005, 09:36 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Anywhere & Everywhere
Posts: 21
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Insulate Holding Tanks
Hi all, name here is Gene. I have a trailer with the waste tanks exposed to the weather, underneath the basement. I have unfortunately been in a cold area twice now and ended up with all waste tanks frozen up. Fortunately the tanks were not raptured and no damage was result of that.
Has any body ever installed some insulation around the tanks, and if so, what type of materials were used.
Thanks for any comment and suggestions
Gene
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2000 Stalick International Low Profile, DT530, 6 sp Allison,
2007 Teton 36', MOR/Ryde IS Suspension, Disk Brakes
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Gene
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12-17-2005, 01:24 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Northern California
Posts: 18
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Camping World sells "Heater Pads" that you attach to the tanks and hook up to electrical. I havent heard anything bad on them. the underbelly of my 5'er is sealed and heated allready.
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2003,1500 Dodge Quad Cab, 5.7L HEMI
2004 Keystone Cougar 244efs
Valley Slider,Prodigy Controler,AirLift Bags
Home Page GroupTeamExtreme.com
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12-17-2005, 03:05 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ca. winter/USA summer
Posts: 233
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Holding tanks
I have a 38ft. Prowler 5er which has 12volt heating pads on all three of my tanks, switches just inside the front door, seem to work so far. I will get the paper work out and post the mfg. name latter.
Larry & Kathy
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Fulltime June 2000 SK#82498
Our Home is Where we Park IT
International 4700 Low Profile 530 power:Full Air Ride
Prowler Regal AX6 :Trail Air pin box/spring over axle: Verizon internet: 2 Verizon cell phone
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06-24-2006, 12:53 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Welches Oregon
Posts: 523
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Every RV I've had has a way to heat the tanks. Our Monaco had a heat vent in the tank area. Our 5th wheels tank is located next to the heater. I'm sure the heat from it would keep the tanks from freezing. look around the tank area and on the covering of your rig, for a vent. You could add a tee and vent some heat into the tank area.
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Bob and Kate Weigant
Welches Oregon
Elite 2006 36TK3
2007 M2 Freightliner
2005 Wrangler
In a land of the blind, the one eyed guy is king.
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06-25-2006, 12:21 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,130
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You might try buying some spray on foam insulation. Just get the canned stuff from the hardware store. If you can build some kind of box between the tanks place a 100 watt light there and when it gets cold keep it lit during the night to add heat to the tanks. Put a small access panel in the box so you don't ahve to leave the light there all the time.
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Mike Nancy and the fuzzies
Fulltiming since June 2004
Volvo 660 MH tow vehicle
2005 MS 38RL
2007 Saturn Ion "toad"
2010 Gold Wing "piggyback"
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06-25-2006, 04:09 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 29
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We spent one winter in cold weather in our Automate. I put a wooden skirt around the trailer and placed a 100 Watt AC bulb under each tank and had no problem. If you are towing in freezing weather I'm not sure what to do. If you have a built in generator perhaps those AC heating pads would work if you left the generator run on the road. DC heater will draw a lot of current and to use them on the road you would also have to have a generator runnning to keep them from exhausting your trailer batteries.
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2000 Quad Cab 2500 Auto w/4:10 rear end. DTT 89% VB, TC, Mag HI-TECK Pan, Smart Box, EZ, PAC Brake, Pillar gage mount with EGT, Boost, and Tranny output temp, Miller Manufacturing Truck Bed Cover, with RBW 5er hitch, and
Rigged to tow a 29' Automate 5th wheel.
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12-28-2010, 01:17 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 13
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I have never had any issues with condensation but my tank was sprayed with foam insulation at the factory (1982) it's still in good shape and I have not found any mold or evidence that it has had moisture problems on the exterior, even our black and grey tanks are spray foamed.
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12-28-2010, 11:15 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
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I thought Tetons were advertised/sold as 'cold-weather' units--they were made in Casper, WY. Is there a possibility there used to be an enclosure on the lower frame with heat vents somewhere?
Joe
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01-14-2013, 02:50 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
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Enclosing bottom of rv
Measure between the frame rails (approx 6ft) Next go to Home depot or Lowes and get some 1in thick foam board,highest r value you can find(4'x8' sheets approx 6ea). Next a half gallon of denatured alcohl for cleaning the outside frame rails. Next a couple of rows of duct tape( for temp holding). You will also need 1.5" X 2"x 6-8' ALUM L angle(about 10-12 pieces). Some 4' x 8' 4mm honey comb plastic sheets.
Mark all your cross members on each outside frame rail(Drawing also helps with measurements). Install one foam board and one plastic sheet( use duct tape to hold in place), You can cut all with a good razor knife.
I measured 3' wide for each piece, and cut then taped one at a time up so I could drill holes into the crossmembers for srews(self taping approx 1.5-2" long). Then just wotk your way back. Farm teck has a neat connector H for the plastic. This is pretty close to the factory setup. Once your all done caulk around the seams. Don't forget to make a door for your dump valves.
Good luck
Craber0001
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