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Old 02-07-2010, 10:36 AM   #1
paul1265
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Join Date: Jul 2005
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Level Up System Procedures and Chocking

I have a 36 foot Mobile Suite (MS) Fifth Wheel

1.When I had the level up system installed I was told:

While hooked to my truck, level the MS side to side using the level up system, chock the wheels, then detach the truck, then level front to aft using the front jacks.

When I raise the front of the MS to detach from my truck I am concerned about stressing the level up jacks, the Trail Air center point system and my suspension / springs.

What have other MS or other 5th wheel owners experienced?

Has anyone experienced adjusting side to side / front to back with slides out using the level up and front jacks?

2. Chocking Wheels:

I currently have BAL chocks. I am looking for a better option. Has anyone used the Rotochok? What size Rotochok do you use on your MS?

Thanks in advance for your response!

Paul
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Old 02-10-2010, 08:13 PM   #2
rockyman
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you might call Ted at allseasons rv, 231 739 5269, they deal in mobile suites and he might be able to assist you. Hope you get your problem solved!!
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:40 PM   #3
paul1265
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I called the service technician at TrailAir service center that installed our level up system. I was able to get "unconfused" I should unhook from the truck, level side to side, then front to aft.
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:29 AM   #4
RodeWorthy
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Proper method to level using Level Up on Mobile Suties

Paul,
I also have a 2007 36RS3 and I have the Level-Up system. There has been at least 3 generations of this product. There may be more but I have had them all up to the 3rd generation.

You didn't say which version you have. I had a lot of trouble with the first installation due to twisting the frame and causing the slide outs to distort to the point they would not fit into their frames when pulled in. With that version we were supposed to level front-to-back with truck attached. An immposibility in my case. The Level-Up was unuseable in this state.

This problem was fixed with version two. I had my own ideas about what should be done but I went along with the upgrade provided. This entailed incorporating the rear stabilizers into the leveling process for side to side level. A provision was made to allow the cylinders to float during the leveling process.

That change was very successful and allowed me to remove the trailer from the truck and do the level in any sequence desired. No more frame twisting.

My practice is to disconnect from the truck. Set the front to back level with a bubble level I attached in the small control compartment. Then I lower the Level-Up cylinders to the ground and level by raising the low side. I use a level attached to the hitch for this purpose. I then check the front-to-back again and touch it up if necessary. Finally we make sure the sliding door at the entrance to the bath/bedroom area will stay in place anywhere we set it. If the unit is not level it will tend to move to the low side. This works very well and the whole process takes about 3 minutes ater we get the truck unhitched.

We don't bother with the digital gizzmo that came with the Level-Up. It does work but that thing eats batteries.

The 3rd generation added a remote control capability which did away with the long tethered switch cord in the hydraulic compartment. This works OK but is limited to the leveling cylinders and one slide + a control of your choice. I didn't bother with the 'control of your choice'. The remote is badly laid out and even labelled wrong but I understand it has now been replaced by a 3 button remote with a digital readout. Kind of wish I had waited for the next generation of the remote.

There was a real rats nest of wiring left in my hydraulic compartment after all this was completed. I have since rewired that whole area to make it neater and easier to trouble shoot. In my case the system was powered from the hydraulic motor relay and that was direct wired from the battery with no fusing whatsoever. That has since been corrected. I believe it is DRV's practice to not provide circuit protection to the hydraulics. If a fuse is added it will take at least 80A. I am using 100A.

The Trailair people have been good to me and resolved my problems. They have however left my friend in South Carolina in a bad state because his trailer drops on the landing gear after he had generation two installed. Lots of promises to fix it but no action after many months.

We have been through a lot with the Level-Up but I cannot imagine being without it now. It does a great job.

As far as well chocks go I have a the wedge type that sit on the ground. I only use these if there is an obvious possibility the trailer might roll on an incline. I use no other device at the wheels. Don't know why they are needed.
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:36 PM   #5
rockyman
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glad to hear you got it all worked out, sounds like a nice system!!
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:45 PM   #6
mhs4771
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Not that is really matters, but there have been other changes to the Level-Up System. It is now fully automatic. Put down the front landing gear, disconnect the TV and pull away. Push the Auto Level Button and in approx 30 sec you're level. Love it and would never get another unit without such a system.
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Old 11-21-2011, 10:22 AM   #7
01zeosix
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Cost to Upgrade?

I have the Level Up system with the front and rear stabilizers. I am wondering what the cost is that's associated with an upgrade to the current version of the system? Looking to add the upgraded system to my DRV sometime in the near future.

Thanks, in advance.
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:00 PM   #8
RickandJanice
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Friend of ours have a Select Suites with the older manual operated Level Up system. This past spring, I think they were quoted around $800 to upgrade to auto level system. Main cost is the "brain".
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