Frozen gray and black tank valves and lines.

[Hanr3]

Looking for some opinions.
I camp in temps below freezing March thru November and the camper works great, except the grey and black tanks valves freeze. I'm looking for options?

I've done a ton of research on the subject and below are my thoughts.
Heat Tape- it'll do the job and needs to be wrapped.
Concern- fire. Plus it won't protect the valves should a tire shred.

Box in the drains/valves- but what do I do for heat?
Heat Tape? Small electric heater with tip over protection? Run a vent line of the furnace? The first two are fire concerns. The last may be a challenge to run the hose.

Thoughts, opinions? How did you solve a similar problem?

[wingnut60]

Not sure you have many options--I would depend on heat tape. What is protecting the valves now if a tire shreds?

[Notanlines]

Tim, you're probably over-thinking this thing. Quality brands of heat tape will probably be your best answer with a quality insulation wrapped around the taped areas.
The very best insurance against the shredded tire damage is to keep the tire pressures exactly where they should be every morning when leaving, check temperatures/pressures along the way on your journey, and tell us what brand tire your RV came with. If the tire brand includes the word "King" you need to tell us sooner rather than later when you have shredded tire damage.

[Hanr3]

Thanks for the feedback.
Currently nothing is protecting the valves from a shredded tire. The drain lines hang below the insulated and covered belly.

Tires are Trailer King tires, factory originals. I always check tire pressure on both the tow vehicle and trailer before heading out.

Any recommendations on quality heat tape and insulation?

Yes, I tend to overthink things. Habit from working around engineers most of my career. lol

[wingnut60]

While you are 'overthinking' things, I would check on reviews on those tires.....

[Notanlines]

Somehow I just knew that's what you had for tires. You are riding on the very tire responsible for the RV'ing term 'China-bombs.'

[dmorse68]

You mentioned all good things. If it were me, I would box the valves, wrap them with heat tape/pads, and then run a new, smaller diameter, flexible slinky style ducting from your furnace into the box. I would look for, or make a “T” or “Y”connector and connect it to your exsisting furnace ducting. The T should have 2 larger openings 4”, and one smaller diameter opening 2”. Use the smaller diameter part of the T and run ducting from it to your valve box. Just a thought. My RV’s furnace had provisions for a 2” ducting and that’s what runs over to my valves and water manifold area to heat them for below freezing times. So first look at your furnace first to see if there is a knockout for an additional ducting. If not then think about the T idea.

[Hanr3]

You mentioned all good things. If it were me, I would box the valves, wrap them with heat tape/pads, and then run a new, smaller diameter, flexible slinky style ducting from your furnace into the box. I would look for, or make a “T” or “Y”connector and connect it to your exsisting furnace ducting. The T should have 2 larger openings 4”, and one smaller diameter opening 2”. Use the smaller diameter part of the T and run ducting from it to your valve box. Just a thought. My RV’s furnace had provisions for a 2” ducting and that’s what runs over to my valves and water manifold area to heat them for below freezing times. So first look at your furnace first to see if there is a knockout for an additional ducting. If not then think about the T idea.

I added two lines to the heat box already, one for floor heat in the living area, and one to add heat to the basement. I think I'll tap a 2" line off the basement heat run it to the drain/valve box. I like the 2" line idea. Thanks!