Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-23-2010, 11:26 PM   #1
Coleyfarms
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Anyone experiencing problems with interior condensation?

I have a 2010 38TKSB3 and am having some pretty bad condensation problems in the front closet, under the bed and in various cabinets throughout the coach. Has anyone else noticed this happening, especially if you're living fulltime in a very cold climate? Other than the front closet, the main problem areas tend to be more isolated to the slideouts.
__________________

Coleyfarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2010, 05:52 AM   #2
Gemstone
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Boydton, VA
Posts: 443
Water vapor condenses into a liquid after making contact with the surface of a cold bottle.....this is a typical form of condensation we see...like on a soda bottle left on the counter, so it begs the question; how cold is it where you are parked ? It sounds like warm humid air is contacting a cold outer (maybe uninsulated, or an area subject to a draft) surface. Have you tried (moving south....just kidding) running a dehumidifier in the rig to remove some of the moisture from the inside air ?

Regards
Gemstone
__________________

__________________
No longer on the road.
Gemstone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2010, 08:47 AM   #3
hitchup
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Currently: working on the road
Posts: 770
Same model as yours, but we've had no problems with condensation. Even on the windows for the last 2 winters. We spent last winter near the mountains in Mt Airy, NC and right now we're in MD.

I've had to run a humidifier nightly in the bedroom for more than a week because of bloody noses. Use space heaters during the day and set the temp down to 59 on the (2) furnaces each night.
__________________
2014 Mobile Suite Estates 38RSB - custom home
2014 F450 KR CC 4x4 ...... his office
2015 Lance 1172 - traveling Motel (solar and generator)
Working Fulltimers since 3/2005
hitchup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2010, 10:51 PM   #4
Coleyfarms
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Well, to be honest, we are from Alabama, had this problem last year, there in Alabama and thought maybe it was happening because of the high humidity in the south. DRV replaced all three of our slideouts because of massive amounts of water inside the coach so everyone thought the problem was fixed. Now, this winter we are working in North Dakota and this thing is sweating again something fierce. You can open the drawers now under the fridge & stove and see pure ice, same thing around the corners of the bed and the corners of the front closet. Wasn't sure if this type of condensation is normal for these climates.
We generallytry to keep to interior temps around 68 degrees as the furnace has a rather healthy appetite.



Coleyfarms
2010 38TKSB3
2006 IH 9200i
Coleyfarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2010, 05:10 AM   #5
Gemstone
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Boydton, VA
Posts: 443
"the furnace has a rather healthy appetite"....whew, and the winter has just begun.

Have you plugged as many gaps as you can ? I know our rig leaks air terribly. I use pieces of 1/2" dense foam, like an exercise mat ,stuffed under the length of the kitchen slide, and in each exterior corner of the slides, the three roller gaps cut in the kitchen slide seal, and particularly around the inside of the bedroom slide. I realize that moving parts need room to move, but IMO, DRV did an extremely poor job of engineering air seals.

Regards
Gemstone
__________________
No longer on the road.
Gemstone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2010, 05:36 PM   #6
RGordon
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Atoka, TN & North Ft Myers, FL
Posts: 158
Air may flow freely through our units, but they brag on the 3-1.4" walls with the high R Insulation values. They would really be efficient if you had no slide outs, but unfortunately the more you have the more cold air that flows. I do have a double slider rubber seal under the kitchen slide. I would think any ole country boy with some common sense could engineer a slideout seal that would stop most of the airflow. If fulltiming in colder climates, you really need a large external propane tank.
__________________
Ron & Libby Gordon
2007 F350 Ford Lariat Diesel DRW CC
2007 Mobile Suite 38RL3 #3698
RGordon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2010, 08:18 PM   #7
bstark
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fergus, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 1,000
I replaced that seal under the kitchen slideout with one that hadn't been cut to prevent being caught by the rollers. I designed and installed some stainless plates to fasten to the front edge of the floor of that slideout that extended up to prevent the seal from deflecting enough to get caught by the rollers then installed the new seal over top of those plates doubling up at the ends, no more air infiltration under that slideout from then on.

Cooking using the propane (very wet fuel) will intoduce a LOT of condensation into the rig. as will showering etc., without running the exhaust vent.

You need to adopt a two pronged approach to your problem: Prevent the humidity from building up and make sure there is air circulation to every nook and cranny in your rig to prevent cold spots from forming.
__________________
Sandra, Bruce
bstark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2010, 11:08 PM   #8
rotaxman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Liberty Mo (Suburb of Kcmo)
Posts: 559
Poor seals

I agree with Gemstone,Ron, and Bruce first off DRV has NO engineering talent what so ever. Dan Tauer lays claim to be the driving force behind that worthless kitchen slide seal. Pats himself on the back about what a great thing he designed. He used to be a district sales rep before they moved him up the ladder.

Normal the less you know the further you go. I did something similar to Bruce on my 06 and replaced the seal with one that was not cut also rigged the rollers so that the seal could not be caught when running the slide in. Something that should have been done by DRV if they had any engineering talent. Any 4 year old could have done a better job.

Drv likes to talk about the great R ratings and those big thick walls but when you can see daylight coming in under the slides those R ratings go right down the toliet and those walls might just as well be made out of 1/4 inch plywood . Drv likes to talk mainly to just to hear themselves talk.

Making the same mistakes over and over for the past 5 years, using defective frames, poor slide seals, quota based assembly line the use of Dometic products no QC in place the list goes on and one I could go on all night.

Bruce also mentioned about allowing air flow to all parts of the trailer that is somewhat more difficult with this new 09 than it was with my 06. My 06 was a 36ft and had two furnace vents in the bedroom my 09 is a 38ft and has had the outlets reduced to one in the bedroom another brainstorm some one at DRV had saved DRV about $1.50 per unit its all about the bottom line.


I suggested to Coleyfarms in a pm that he contact Paul Cross if anyone can figure out what's going on and how to fix it and get DRV to step up to the plate and pay for it Paul is the man

Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving

As always good camping

Joyce and Jerry
__________________
Jerry Sharp
Joyce McAlpin
Two Lives One Dream
2000 F 450 V10
5.38 gears trailer special
Automatic 4R100
20000# Reese Hitch
Trail Air Suspension and Pin Box with Tri Glide
Honda 4500 ex
Hughes Internet
Garmin 2720 talking GPS
Pressure Pro
Junk frame 2009 38TKSB3 #4750
rotaxman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2010, 10:40 AM   #9
Coleyfarms
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Thanks to all who have responded! Yes we are very aware of DRV's quota based pay plan and am not very keen on the idea. The quality has definately shown through on our rig, we've had more than our fair share of problems from the appliances to the moisture problems and also, the air you feel blowing in around the slide seals like a wind tunnel! We actually had extra seals added to all of our slides although our coach was supposed to be "the best and newest design at the time". Even with those seal additions, they help a little but you can definately still feel air infiltration around the slides, Whats the worst is that we have to lift the mattress and lay it over the dresser every other day to dry it out. There aren't many measures we haven't tried to stop what is going on, the best thing we've done is "poke" the pipe wrap insulation (round foam w/the slit in it) under the kitchen/living area slide, fits nicely and does help, just have to remember to remove it when closing up to move.

To Jerry, Our coach is a 2010, built in summer 2009 #5067. Thanks so much for the info as how to contact Paul Cross. We were just talking about him the other day and couldn't remember his name and for sure did not know how to contact him.

Coleyfarms
2010 38TKSB3 #5067
2006 IH 9200i
Coleyfarms is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2010, 02:56 PM   #10
Motor31
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,130
Coleyfarms,

Sadly, welcome to the DRV engineering appreciation club.

We have an 05 38' rig. I have to say your condensation issues are far above any we have ever had in our rig outside of leaks that I finally fixed myself.

Part of that may be that we winter far more South than you. We do spend the majority of the year in humid climates (Washington coast, Arkansas, Louisiana and mid South Texas (San Antonio) before heading back to Arizona for the three or four coldest winter months.

I do the stuffing rags into the seal slots habit when we park longer than overnight. I also use the split foam hose insulation in the gaps in the kitchen side flooring. That helps slow the flow through ventilation.

As far as the wall insulation is concerned. It's a bogus R factor being sold. Unless you are going to use the rv with the slides in it doesn't apply. There is NO insulation in the roof or floors of the slides. The only insulation you get is the vinyl and vapor barrier in the roof and the insulation of the carpet and plywood in the floor. Every window also drops the R value as even the dual pane windows do not have much R factor with only a 1/4 inch gap.

If you are getting ice inside the rig you have some severe problems and I would be burning the lines up between you and the factory before the warranty runs out. You didn't spend big bucks to live in an igloo and the conditions you describe should be a point of shame for the factory. Perhaps it's time to get a lawyer involved. Document photographically the situation. Video is even better especially if you can have a neutral 3rd party do it and be ready to report the circumstances.

For hard winter use, you really do need a rental drop tank for propane that will hold far more then the little tanks in the trailer. It may also help cut the cost of the propane as well. Don't forget to use something to "skirt" the bottom of the rig and stop air from traveling underneath it. Bales of straw will do that and help cut the heating costs.
__________________
Mike Nancy and the fuzzies
Fulltiming since June 2004
Volvo 660 MH tow vehicle
2005 MS 38RL
2007 Saturn Ion "toad"
2010 Gold Wing "piggyback"
Motor31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2010, 11:26 AM   #11
Jimfla
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Titusville Fl.
Posts: 63
I had a 2004 that had that small rubber seal with the notches cut out for the rollers . I just bought a 2011 the have new seal for the kit slide much bigger no notches cut for rollers it seals real tight.
Jim
__________________
2011 TK3 5445 mor ryde suspension & pin box fiberglass
2012 3500HD duramax hauler body
Jimfla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 10:32 AM   #12
Motor31
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,130
Are the 2011's still using only a single wiper seal on circumference of the slides? Not much there to maintain weather proofing and retard the flow through ventilation.
__________________
Mike Nancy and the fuzzies
Fulltiming since June 2004
Volvo 660 MH tow vehicle
2005 MS 38RL
2007 Saturn Ion "toad"
2010 Gold Wing "piggyback"
Motor31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 06:11 PM   #13
dalehandsome
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 49
We also have 2010 38tksb3 #5334. After reading all these posts I decided I better check on our Kitchen slide seal. Ours is a heavy tight fitting seal with no notches cut into it. We have not had any condensation problems; however, we are having issues with our furnace as it has stopped working. Comes on for about 30 seconds and then shuts down. We have lots of propane. We are parked in Forsyth, Georgia for about 14 more months with no way of moving the unit to a dealer. Have not had any success in finding someone to come out and have a look. Unfortunately, it is starting to get cold. If anyone has any thoughts please let me know.

Dale and Marian Hansen
dalehandsome is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 06:20 PM   #14
billr
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 857
I'm sure there are other possibilities, but we had that problem a couple years ago and replacing the propane regulator solved it.

Warranty covered it.

Bill
__________________
Bill and Joan
4 Collie pups
05 M/S 38RL3 #2046
01 Volvo VNL770
05 Smart Passion Loaded piggyback
https://picasaweb.google.com/billandjoan
Weigh-It Portable RV Scales
https://www.weighitrv.com
billr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 06:28 PM   #15
jcasey
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 82
We had the same problem and an rv repairman also told us it was a faulty progane regulator. However, he was wrong.

It was, instead, a sensor in the furnace. Easy to get to----not expensive to fix. I wish I could remember the exact name of the failed part---perhaps it was called a temperature sensor. Whatever it was called, the failing part/sensor would misread temperatures and wrongfully/prematurely turn off the furnace.

Maybe that is problem in your situation?
__________________
2011 Ford 6.7 Powerstroke F350 Super Cab, AT, DRW, Lariat. with Ride-Rite Firestone Air Bags. Used to tow 2011 Mobile Suites 36RSSB3 #5568, which is equipped with Center Point Suspension, Trailair Hitch, Level-Up, dual pane windows, Satellite Finder, 17.5 Tires, Dual Air, Valley/Husky 24,000 5th wheel hitch.
jcasey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 06:35 PM   #16
terry and jo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Retired Okie now in Colorado
Posts: 531
Dale,

I've been working with our furnaces lately (ours has the Canadian package, thus two furnaces) and I kind of had the same problem with my front one. After it cut off after anywhere from 30 seconds to a minute, I wound down both thermostats to get the furnaces to shut off. Then, I manually switched the thermostat off with the switch on the bottom. When I turned it back on and turned up the temperature on the thermostat for the front one, it started and kept running, including getting heated up.

I don't know if it was an issue, but I had just changed one of the tanks prior to this happening.

Terry
__________________
Terry and Jo
2010 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3 #5332 - 2008 Ford F450
Terry's Smugmug Site
terry and jo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 06:48 PM   #17
dalehandsome
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 49
How do you get to the sensor?
dalehandsome is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 07:27 PM   #18
dalehandsome
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 49
Thanks for the information. Can you tell me where to locate this sensor and where I might buy one? We do have a Camping World near by.
dalehandsome is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 10:27 PM   #19
billr
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 857
Quote:
Originally Posted by terry and jo
Dale,


I don't know if it was an issue, but I had just changed one of the tanks prior to this happening.

Terry
Good point Terry. If you just changed a tank and carried it on its side, or tipped it over, and don't let it settle for a bit before turning it back on, its possible to get liquid propane into the valve and they cut off and slow the pressure delivery. There were some posts on here a few years ago about that very thing.

You might try disconnecting the bottles and bleeding the lines, then reconnect. Open the valves slowly.

Bill
__________________
Bill and Joan
4 Collie pups
05 M/S 38RL3 #2046
01 Volvo VNL770
05 Smart Passion Loaded piggyback
https://picasaweb.google.com/billandjoan
Weigh-It Portable RV Scales
https://www.weighitrv.com
billr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2010, 10:59 PM   #20
jcasey
Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 82
If I recall correctly, the sensor can be accessed by taking off one of the round aluminum coated tubes connected to the furnace. The tune distributes heat throughout the trailer. The one we took off was available on the door side behind the sliding panel at the back of the big front compartment. Again, assuming I am recalling correctly, the sensor is in position to sense the hot air's temperature as it exits the furnace via the round aluminum coated tube. Fortunately, the rv repair guy knew what he was looking for.

He replaced it, then let it cycle a number of times for more than a half hour to be certain the replaced part fixed the problem. The sensor it self might cost about $10-$20 and the labor was an hour or less---since he knew what he was doing!

Hope the solution to your problem is that simple.
__________________

__________________
2011 Ford 6.7 Powerstroke F350 Super Cab, AT, DRW, Lariat. with Ride-Rite Firestone Air Bags. Used to tow 2011 Mobile Suites 36RSSB3 #5568, which is equipped with Center Point Suspension, Trailair Hitch, Level-Up, dual pane windows, Satellite Finder, 17.5 Tires, Dual Air, Valley/Husky 24,000 5th wheel hitch.
jcasey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×