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Old 05-13-2007, 03:49 PM   #1
cdango
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Track Lighting LED replacement?

I remember reading that you could replace the Halogen Bulbs used in the track lighting with LED bulbs. I have searched the site, and cannot find any postings on this subject. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 05-13-2007, 07:27 PM   #2
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Try this
http://www.superbrightleds.com/MR16_specs.htm
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:25 PM   #3
sigo'suite
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They can also be bought at Lowes and Home Depot in the outdoor lighting section. They are MR16 bulbs without the lense cover, I downsized mine to 35W, when I had one burn out I think I remember the ones from the factory are 50W.

Problem I am having is with the track lighting itself, I have had mine replaced once and now have a second bulb out and when I tried to replace the bulb, it is not the bulb it is the lighting system itself near as I can tell; so the dealer has ordered me yet another replacement.

Suspect they will do like they did before and send a whole new track and all. About one more time and I am going to search for another type of lighting. Anyone got any suggestions?
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:03 PM   #4
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I have a matching florescent with a chain pull right next to the track light. I had the dealer install it before taking delivery as I know that track lighting would be a big power draw when boon docking. Works grate, we hardly use the track lights.
Rick
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:26 PM   #5
sigo'suite
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Rick, guess that could be an option.

Found this today makes me wonder if this explanation is part of the problem.

http://www.usalight.com/our_track_li...res_pg_78.html

This site could also serve as a source for future needs in track lighting.
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:40 PM   #6
Hobo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sigo'suite
Rick, guess that could be an option.

Found this today makes me wonder if this explanation is part of the problem.

http://www.usalight.com/our_track_li...res_pg_78.html

This site could also serve as a source for future needs in track lighting.
Those lights on the web page are stepped down from 110V to 12V where as the ones in the MS do not use a transformer as they are straight 12V. I think it is just the quality of light used not taking all the jousting going down the road though I have not had to do anything but replace one bulb. They had some complaints of hot wall switches and that was most likely from bad connections. I have not had the switch problem either. Knock wood.....
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Old 05-15-2007, 06:58 AM   #7
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We had ours go out. While waiting for the replacement, the DH fixed the old one, and it's still working more than 6 months later.

Undo the screws that hold in the metal plate at the end of the strip. Pull the plate out from the strip. There is a piece that protrudes from the plate that inserts into the strip. On either side of that piece are some sort of prongs or buds that he bent out so they could contact the edges of the strip, thus sending power to the strip, which powers the lights.

Hope you understand this. If not, let me know. I'll get the DH to give you a better explanation. He's the electrical engineer, I'm the finance person.
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Old 08-04-2007, 10:20 AM   #8
wingnut60
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OK--AlwaysHomeNow....

Looking for that further explanation: My track lighting does not work at all, cannot figure what is the problem.

I would appreciate if your electrical engineer could enlighten me as to what the problem was with yours.

Thanks,

Joe
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Old 08-04-2007, 10:26 AM   #9
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Further info for your DH, the electrical part of the duo:

Strip lights were getting very hot, but working. One day, turned them off at the switch, never came back on. Ceiling lights in LR area on same switch work fine. I have checked some voltage outputs and it seems to be getting the 13.4 volts at the strip, yet no lights. I have taken the cover plate off the end of the strip that covers the wiring connections--I have also removed the plastic piece that slips into the strip to which the wiring connects--is this the piece you are referring to that your DH pulled out the metal prongs on?

Any help on this will be deeply appreciated.

Joe
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Old 08-04-2007, 12:57 PM   #10
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I will add to this having just fixed mine. Yes , after making sure power is off you can ake off the end plate and disconnect the wires and pull out the "plug". I found the contacts in mine a little charred and sanded them a little and reinserted the plug and things worked fine. I also bent out the wire in the track to make sure that there was good contact. Nonetheless, I considered it an unsafe solution and DT sent me a new fixture--complete with 50W halogen 12V bulbs. I got 20 W halogens from Lowes and installed the new light with the lower wattage bulbs.

I do believe that the track light fixture should not run 3 50W bulbs.
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Old 08-04-2007, 05:07 PM   #11
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We went through a 2007 38RL today at a dealer in MD. I noticed they had a different strip light in their kitchen. White round ones. We haven't had anymore problems with ours after the 2 "episodes" over the last month or so where DH had to remove the plate & tighten the connectors because first they were ON & then they were OFF. But it's on my change out someday List!
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:11 PM   #12
sigo'suite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traveler
DT sent me a new fixture--complete with 50W halogen 12V bulbs. I got 20 W halogens from Lowes and installed the new light with the lower wattage bulbs.
I do believe that the track light fixture should not run 3 50W bulbs.
I agree, just recently when mine was changed out for the second time, I downsized to the 35's and it is still hot as a firecracker where it vents at the top of the fixture.
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Old 08-04-2007, 11:51 PM   #13
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Track Lights

I think my dealer told me that in 2007 they went to 110 volt track lighting which is what it should of been in the first place if they are going to run lots of 50 watt halogen bulbs.

As always good camping

Joyce and Jerry
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:46 AM   #14
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AlwaysHomeNow:

I just gotta tell you thanks (and to your DH) for the tip on getting the track lights to work.

Just this morning I gave up and ordered a replacement set from USA Light from the link given. Since I had a replacement that would be forthcoming, I decided to give it one more try, as I had already tried bending the contacts as you said he did. This time, I REALLY BENT THEM OUTWARD, to the point I was not sure I could even put the connector back in. But it went in, I turned on the switch (this time the correct switch!) and WHAM! let there be light!!!.

My wife is really impressed with me: 1) that I know which switch operates the track; 2) that we have another set coming when the original is back working; and 3) I listened to someone elses' advice.

Life is good.

Again, thanks.

Joe
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