Here’s a quick up date on my water heater problem. See previous thread explaining the problem.
http://www.5thwheelforums.com/forums...pic.php?t=3065
First, the circuit board is used only for the LP side of the water heater. Found this out after speaking with the tech guy at Suburban. My problem was heater not working on the electric side therefore did not need to go further with the circuit board. Also, circuit board is easy to replace if need to, it’s plug and play.
Second, problem was the heating element, replaced for $28, so great.
I didn’t trouble shoot the electric side of the system properly. When using the volt meter
I found out you need to ground one of the meter leads to the RV chasse. With a home circuit you usually have one lead on one side of the part you’re checking with the other lead on the other side to determine if the voltage is traveling through the part. Hope I explained this clearly to help others.
Also, when I did the continuity check on the heating element I did not remove the element from the tank. Guess what, water is a conductor so with heating element in the tank and tank full of water, it will always indicate there’s continuity. So duh on me!!!
So armed with this new found knowledge, I checked each 120 V connection and verified I had voltage all the way to the heating element. The rest was easy.
Also found out you need a 1-1/2” socket to remove the heating element. Did not have one, no one in the RV park had one either. No place to buy one, so went to the local Chevy dealer and the mechanic on hand loaned me his. I left my wife there for collateral, I think she’s still waiting for me to come back and retrieve her!!!!!
Last thing; guess what’s on my Christmas list, you guessed it, 1-1/2” socket. It will happen again, guarantee. Maybe I should go and retrieve wifee other wise no Christmas gifts!!!
Hope this explanation helps others who may run into the same problem some day.
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