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Old 01-17-2021, 11:15 AM   #21
RLopez
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Thank you, Exposed.
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Old 01-21-2021, 06:55 AM   #22
USA in a Chevrolet
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A Simple Solution

I had the same problem of a slide out creeping out 10 years ago when I purchased my 2010 DRV Select Suites on my very first trip. I called Lippert & was told they would look at it but suggested I try the following. First when extending slides start with bedroom then kitchen then dining room. When retracting slides go in opposite order. Now the important thing. After you have hooked up to your truck & retracted landing gear & levelers, go inside & bump each slide switch to the in position. When I did that the slide would go in a fraction of an inch. Lippert said that by doing this it equalizes pressure on all cylinders. Since that first day I have always done this & never had a creeping problem again. We still have our Select Suites & travel at least 12000 miles each year. Of course I’ve made lots of improvements such as the forever roof & many others. Try this if you still have the problem after your repairs. As for construction materials my fiver was made by DRV when it was still owned by David Fought. And yes it’s 10 years old but looks brand new.
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Old 01-21-2021, 09:46 AM   #23
terry and jo
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Like USA in a Chevrolet, our Mobile Suites is also a 2010 model. At one of the regional rallies back then, we found out about the sequence that he mentioned on the slide operation. What I didn't know about was the "bumping" of the slides after hooking up, but then, we've not had an issue with slides coming out.

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Old 01-21-2021, 10:06 AM   #24
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Interesting information. I would probably agree as long as the last button you pushed was for the slide having the issue. It seems retracting any of the other hydraulic cylinders after the troubled slide is in, it will come back out. For the first couple trips, we could just reset that slide (bring in/out) and it would be fine. But later, the current solution showed that did not work anymore fixing the issue. Thanks for the information..
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Old 01-22-2021, 11:13 PM   #25
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As it was explained to us, by operating the slides in the "correct" order, it caused the system to purge any air in the lines back to the reservoir. That is why the order was front to back and back to front.


That said, I have NO CLUE as to whether air in the lines had/have any relationship to a slide slipping back out. The only other thing that "might" have a bearing is having the "additive" added to the hydraulic fluid. That has supposedly had a positive effect by helping to keep the jack cylinders from leaking down. I can't speak to that personally because we've never had issues with our hydraulics. (We've also not been frequent movers, thus our slides and jacks don't get much of a workout.)


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Old 01-23-2021, 04:55 AM   #26
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Thank you, Terry and Jo
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Old 01-23-2021, 06:53 AM   #27
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Finishing another project first

Today, I was going to start on the hose/cylinder project but I hate to start a new project when I already have another project going. I am posting another one of my projects on a different post here in the DRV section. I want to finish building my jack pads I started prior to this blog... I hope to start on this tomorrow...
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Old 02-01-2021, 10:00 AM   #28
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Well it was a long weekend here at the Brown's DRV Repair Shop. I had to do a brake job on the granddaughter’s Hyundai Friday afternoon so did not get back to the DRV hose replacement job until Saturday morning. I decided to call my brother to come over to help. Honestly, it is definitely a two-man job. I did go back after getting all the hoses pulled and took some pictures but most of the work is inside the belly so hard to get any decent shots.

We started out by putting jacks under the front of the RV to be able to up/down the landing jacks without having the truck hooked up. This gave us space to work in on the hydraulic pump/manifold area being open to the front. Looking at the existing lines we decided to do the front landing jacks first. This was a total of 4 new lines. After getting the load off the front-end jacks, we raised the jacks just off the ground. We were thinking this would minimize fluid dumping when disconnecting. Was pretty easy except having a wire tie screwed into the frame above the generator and no way to access. Ended up with some long dikes and barely getting your hand in across from the pump area and snipped loose. We connected the new hoses to the existing hoses and pulled through over the generator housing. Once pulled, reconnected new hoses. With all four lines replaced, figured would cycle couple of times to see if working okay. Made some noise when first stared up then seem to get all the air out and started working. I would say this was the easiest part of the upgrade.

Looking at the routing from the pump/manifold area, lines run down the backside of the loading jack down to the bottom just outside the frame in the rolled part of the side skin. It is rolled and then screwed into the bottom of the frame. I could also see a wire tie to the landing jack at the top where lines head down. This was a bad deal to start. Seeing this, my next move was to get access to that area and best option was to remove the control panel that operates the landing jacks. I removed the mounting screws this gave me access to that area and could see where lines were wire tied several spots going down the land jack housing (see picture Hose-3). From the bottom, I realized that I would not need to cut into the belly covering since the lines were outside the frame and actually inside the area covered by the skin where it rolls under the RV (see picture Hose-2). First issues were jack stands to support the front needed to be on the frame and that would cover up a big chuck of the rolled skin that needed to be removed. I decided to just cut back just enough to place a 2x4 block for support and still allow me to remove all the screws holding the skin to the frame. Once I did that, I could loosen the skin and let it drop down. Sure enough our great guys at the factory wire tied all the lines (hydraulic, cable, telephone, electrical) together and then screwed to the floor. No way to just pull out the old ones. So, had to remove all the wire ties and then could separate the hydraulic lines. The next issue was the cut out in the floor from the top was barely large enough for all those lines. The new lines have larger connections so I knew that would be an issue fishing the lines down through there. I decided to cut out an area in the bottom of the butane box which gives me access to work around the hole at the floor level (see picture Hose-5). After doing this, I could stick my hand through the cut out (about 4”x6” opening) and manage to feed each line down through the area. After removing all 5 lines from the manifold, I took the 5 new lines and pulled through one at a time. Then, I tie wrapped to the land jack housing for now.

This was a good start, but the fun had just begun. It was easy pulling the old lines back to where the lines disappear when you get to where your water line access opens to the bottom of the RV. At that point, that opening is a big bowl which covers out to the edge of the from under. Apparently, the factory cut a hole in the frame about 4”-5” past where the hoses disappear (see picture Hose-1). About 4’ past this point is where the kitchen slide cylinder and mid landing jacks are located. Moving to that area, there was a partial area that was cut out and then foamed sprayed to seal off area. I removed all the foam and then opened up the area that was already cut. By bending back I could see a partial wood frame mounted that allowed to attach the belly covering. I went ahead and cut along the wood frame all the way across to the other side. I could then bend back and push the insulation back and could see the cylinder and also where the 5 lines show up on the inside of the frame now. I decided to cut another section of the belly covering about a foot from where I though it was passing through the frame. From this access I could then pull each existing line through the frame. I connected the new line and tapped to the old line and pulled from back toward the cylinder. It took awhile wiggling and twisting hoses but got all 5 pulled out and new ones pulled in. I would consider this the hardest part in replacing all the lines. Once we had all 5 lines pulled, we started working on cylinder replacement on the kitchen slide. This is where all this got started. We had followed the Lippert directions on replacing cylinder, so slide was extended prior to starting. Since cylinder was pretty easy to get to once open on the bottom and insulation pulled back, took about 30 minutes to swap out with new cylinder. At this point, we opened up some areas at each leveling jack. We were fortunate DRV had not tied anymore hoses down with tie wraps so we would just pull old hoses out and tape new hoses to old ones. We replaced all but the hoses to one leveling jack and the dinette cylinder Saturday. It was about 3:30 and decided to call it a day. We are not spring chickens anymore and decided to finish up Sunday morning.

We got started back Sunday morning and when we opened up the area at the dinette cylinder, the insulation was wet around the end of the cylinder. Sure enough, seal on the shaft is leaking. So now will have to replace the other cylinder even though it has not been any issues in operating. We went ahead and pulled the remaining new hoses and connected.

So now all the new hoses are installed and all that is needed it connecting the 5 at the manifold. With all things going on when doing the replacement of lines, the sequence of where the 4 extend lines (kitchen and dinette slide, right and left leveling jacks) got switched. The schematic I had downloaded ended up being not correct. After connecting all the new lines and putting pressure on them, I decided to just switch power connectors on the solenoids instead of disconnecting and reconnecting the hoses. Once you break these connections or have a leak, it can make a mess pretty quick in the compartment. It took awhile to figure out the new order of the lines but finally got everything working the correct device. Starting at the rear and moving forward, opened and closed everything to the front several times to get all the air out of the system. Now, all the hydraulics are working okay. I also can now bring in the kitchen slide and then bring up jacks and other slide and it is not moving. Before it would creep back out. The final test will be on our next road trip to make sure but feel comfortable replacing the cylinder was the issue.

Got off the phone with DRV awhile ago and got the dinette slide cylinder ordered. And of course, not in stock so will probably take couple of weeks to get the replacement cylinder. I also ordered replacement stainless screws and flat washers to replace all the screws I removed. There were several different sizes and flavor. Guess they just grab whatever is close when using these since they would be the same you would think. Once get the new screws can button all the bottom up except at the rear cylinder.
I meant to take a picture of the 16 old hoses replaced. It was quiet a pile and about 250’ feet of hoses. I spent about $1000 on new hoses, $145 for new kitchen cylinder, and now $256 for dinette slide. $30 for transmission fluid. I don’t know what the dealer would get for this job, but I am sure a lot more than this. I will probably do some searching around Houston for someone to rebuild both of my original cylinders and have on hand if I have another one quit functioning or starts leaking.

One other thing I would like to mention is you can see in the pictures, the propane line that runs under the RV, is rusted big time. I am sure it is probably okay but looks like it is 20 years old and set outside in the weather forever. This is alarming to me since this DRV has not been parked outside and never been on roads where salt was used (except maybe delivery to Kansas). Another project will be to replace this black iron pipe in the near future.

To end this, I would say this was a success and anyone planning on tackling this, be prepared for some work. It is not hard but definitely time consuming. Anyone needing more information can contact me via email and will be happy to talk about this venture… I will update post once I get the dinette cylinder to close the blog.
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File Type: jpg Hose-2.jpg (172.9 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg Hose-3.jpg (157.1 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg Hose-4.jpg (227.7 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg Hose-5.jpg (172.6 KB, 14 views)
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Old 02-01-2021, 10:11 AM   #29
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Some job!

Seeing that it would be nice if you could order a "conduit upgrade" when ordering a new trailer, allowing the pulling of replacement hydraulic hoses. The wires and H2O lines would be less of a concern, if you really had to you could just one new hoses and wires.
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Old 02-01-2021, 11:02 AM   #30
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If they put QUALITY lines in the first place most would never need replacing. While at MORryde the tech adding my risers accidentally burned a hole thru one of my lines. He took the line to a local hydraulic shop and was back in a few minutes with a MUCH higher quality hose. He said yea DRV puts junk on these.
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Old 02-01-2021, 11:03 AM   #31
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You would think for what our DRV's cost, the extra cost would be a no brainer for complimenting your quality of your unit. Running steel tubing inside the frame and connect short flexible hoses outside like your car is for brake lines. All hoses would be accessible from outside the frame. And then on the hoses inside the frame (like slide cylinders) were installed with steel braided hoses to minimize ever having any issues. Another pet peeve I have is the final delivery where the workers on the line don't police there trash when they complete their task. It is like they don't take pride in the work. It would be like a complete house where they throw all the trash in closets and attic. You see saw dust, shavings, pieces of plastic, wire, tape, screws, normal trash when doing a project. They just leave it behind like we are living in Mexico. Anyway enough of the complaining...
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Old 02-01-2021, 11:03 AM   #32
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Nice job!!!
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Old 02-01-2021, 10:05 PM   #33
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Thank You, Exposed for all your help with pictures,infor. and the time it took you to post everything. My turn to work on my DRV.
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Old 02-02-2021, 06:24 AM   #34
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RLopez, if you decide to tackle this, give me a call and couple things I can tell that might make it little easier since been down that road.
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Old 02-26-2021, 10:12 AM   #35
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I have been away from the forum for a couple of weeks due to our Texas weather last week. We had lots of electrical outages and eventually broken water pipes in the house and shop. I have been here off/on since 1960 here in the Houston/Katy area. Don't think I have seen these cold temperatures for such a long period of time. Anyway due to availability of water replacement parts here since so many had broken water pipes, we still don't have water in my shop but capped off lines that burst in the house. Hopefully get some parts this next week to repair. Tomorrow, I plan on replacing the dinette slide cylinder that has a leaking seal. The replacement cylinder came in right before the cold weather hit. Once this is done, I will start buttoning up the removed sections of skin on the bottom of the DRV. Hopefully this ordeal with hydraulic hoses will be in the rear view mirror. I did order replacement SS screws and washers to button up the bottom since most of the ones I removed were rusted up. I am probably going to replace the gas header on the bottom too since it looks terrible all rusted up. Will post progress once I get there....
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Old 02-26-2021, 11:03 AM   #36
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Good luck with the SS screws if trying to attach to steel as they are too soft. Wood backing that's softwood or pre drilling hardwood they will be fine.
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Old 02-26-2021, 08:53 PM   #37
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Exposed any way you can take pictures of the belly where you cut out the holes. Again a BIG THANK YOU for all your help.
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Old 03-01-2021, 01:04 PM   #38
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Sometimes I wonder if buying the DRV was the right decision. I can't seem to get a break... Will explain at bottom..

Will start off with got the DRV buttoned back up on the belly. I was going to use the expanding foam on all the cracks in the Coroplast to seal up. This stuff goes everywhere and is not good on the bottom since gravity takes control of where it goes. When sealing up looks a cave with stalactites coming down everywhere. Decided wait till harden then taka a cutter and cut off. I think this work okay. Since the shop was so cold from the artic front, we have really warm temps this past week so everything in the shop was sweating with moisture. The Coroplast was dripping with moisture. So thought I would hold off till Sunday before continuing. I had only a couple of my cutouts that needed some kind of internal support to make a joint to seal up. The area around the slide cylinders have some internal wood framing that worked good to just re-screw and button up. I went to HD and picked up some aluminum flat bar (1/8"x2"). Cut some strips the length of the cut out area that needed support. Drilled and tapped screws into the aluminum. Then slid behind the cut line and screwed in new screws where had tapped out. This seems to be good now and then just apply the sealer to seal the crack.

I know RLopez had requested pictures but it is kind of difficult to show really what you might want. So decided to throw together a sketch showing where I cut the Coroplast. Where I could I would basically make 3 cuts and leave the last side and fold back. This keeps everything in line with matching joint and makes it easier to reconnect. The Coroplast goes out to the edge of the frame rails and uses a C-channel to keep it closed. By removing the C-channel, you have one side access already. I did have to cut a rectangle section out in front of the Kitchen slide up front. About a foot going forward the hydraulic lines pass from the inside of the frame to the outside under the skin where the siding rolls under and attaches to the bottom of the frame rails. We changed out the Dinette slide and now have all hooked back up. New cylinder is working good and no leaks. I also noticed when cycling the Dinette slide in and out, no movement on the Kitchen slide. This was a guaranteed movement before. I feel good about all the hoses and now slide cylinders are replaced as well. After completing the sealing up, hopefully put this issue to bed.

When I went out to start Sunday morning, I had water on the floor. Thinking it was still wet from Saturday when lot of the concrete was sweating, did not think much about it. Started working and noticed out corner of my eye a drip from bracket that hold gas line to the Coroplast. Stopped and sure enough had water dripping about every 45-60 seconds. This is right below where the water heater is. My immediate thought was something froze during the bad weather. The DRV never got that cold and I had the furnace on 45 degrees to keep the water system from having any issues. So got up and went into the access opening where everything in the DRV comes together. After watching I finally saw where water was coming from. It was coming from the water manifold from the Anderson Kantleak valving. What a name, Kantleak and it is leaking in two spots on the manifold. So now after research, another problem that shows up in the DRV. Maybe I have a lemon or something. I will start another topic and track this issue. I enjoy working on stuff but these issues seem to be getting old to me....
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Old 03-01-2021, 01:22 PM   #39
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Yeah, kantleak water manifolds, never fail bearings etc.
Those early kantleaks, made by the anderson brass company were almost all plastic.

If it helps, this is the foam Lippert uses when they do repairs.
And I got this dispenser along with the spray cleaner.

I find it easier to let the foam do its thing and then use a hacksaw blade to trim. I'll use 2" blue painters tape for any location I want no residue.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Touch-N-Sea...item5961c16a7c

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 03-01-2021, 02:27 PM   #40
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I tightened all my fittings a couple years ago on the "KANT LEAK" and have been fine since.

Note! Be sure to turn off water to RV when changing KL valve settings and also receive pressure first. I think that is why most units fail by just turning the valve lets say to fill fresh tank without receiving the pressure.
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