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Old 02-28-2021, 02:29 PM   #21
nytmare
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Originally Posted by bjogan View Post
...I called MORryde to discuss and told me that some have been cutting off the flange. they also did not recommend or suggest this, they were just acknowledging that it is a problem for some. I was not keen on this as the flange does provide some stiffness to the "wing." However, I did cut off the trailing corner of the flange on a 45 degree angle. This should eliminate the flange getting under the rail and still leave plenty of stiffness in the wing.
What procedure and tools did you use to cut off the trailing corner?

I have the same problem. My equipment is: '19 Ram 3500 Limited Dually (w/ B&W Companion (puck system) and a Tonneau-Pro hard tri-fold cover) and '19 40KSSB4 (w/ 2" risers and MoRyde pinbox).

I've run into a couple back-in situations where I was cranked hard to the driver's side. As a result, my driver's side bedrail has a gouge completely through the plastic, but not the metal, fortunately. I'm looking to do the same as you. Thanks.
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Old 02-28-2021, 02:51 PM   #22
porthole
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Originally Posted by nytmare View Post
What procedure and tools did you use to cut off the trailing corner?

I have the same problem. My equipment is: '19 Ram 3500 Limited Dually (w/ B&W Companion (puck system) and a Tonneau-Pro hard tri-fold cover) and '19 40KSSB4 (w/ 2" risers and MoRyde pinbox).

I've run into a couple back-in situations where I was cranked hard to the driver's side. As a result, my driver's side bedrail has a gouge completely through the plastic, but not the metal, fortunately. I'm looking to do the same as you. Thanks.
Portable bandsaw aka 'portaband' works great
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Old 02-28-2021, 03:06 PM   #23
nytmare
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Originally Posted by porthole View Post
Portable bandsaw aka 'portaband' works great
Gotcha. I see that you cut at a 45 degree angle, but how many inches up and out did you got to lop of the corner? Many thanks.
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Old 02-28-2021, 03:28 PM   #24
porthole
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Gotcha. I see that you cut at a 45 degree angle, but how many inches up and out did you got to lop of the corner? Many thanks.
You see the picture on facebunk?

I kinda "winged it"

And I am considering taking off more. Still too close for comfort, especially if the ground is uneven on tight back ins and the trailer starts rocking. CG's in the northeast tend to be on the smaller side.
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Old 02-28-2021, 03:34 PM   #25
nytmare
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You see the picture on facebunk?

I kinda "winged it"

And I am considering taking off more. Still too close for comfort, especially if the ground is uneven on tight back ins and the trailer starts rocking. CG's in the northeast tend to be on the smaller side.
I've seen a pic or two on FB, but not sure it was yours. Are you on the DOG page?

Oddly enough... my biggest problem is backing into my driveway. It's a 90 degree turn on barely a lane and a half gravel road. Very tight turn and ditches on each side of the road, not to mention that I have to cross over a culvert/creek about 15 feet after getting onto the driveway. My poor wife hates helping back in.
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Old 02-28-2021, 04:08 PM   #26
porthole
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Originally Posted by nytmare View Post
I've seen a pic or two on FB, but not sure it was yours. Are you on the DOG page?

Oddly enough... my biggest problem is backing into my driveway. It's a 90 degree turn on barely a lane and a half gravel road. Very tight turn and ditches on each side of the road, not to mention that I have to cross over a culvert/creek about 15 feet after getting onto the driveway. My poor wife hates helping back in.
Both my prior and current driveway were/are a pain.

Last house I was on a cul-de-sac. 50' wide street and the end was big enough to easily do a U turn. We were at the end so I was able to pull in front, turn right and back straight in to the driveway.
But, the crown, lack of the top coat and and a steep driveway required a combination of boards to clear the rear hitch.
And before I backed I dumped all the air on the truck suspension and the TS-3 hitch to gain max clearance at the hitch.
Multiple 2x10's forming ramps 14' long and as high as 4 boards.

Current house, the street is only 18' wide, the crown is almost a foot on either side, swales on each side, my driveway drops off another foot right away and I have two stone columns to thread between, coming in at a 45 degree angle. My neighbors enjoy the show.

I was not able to get the trailer in the driveway when we closed on the house. I had to remove the tool box from the truck. Then it would only take about 20-25 minutes. I've since moved one stone column and can back in easily but I now put 100 psi in the hitch bags to gain as much clearance as I can for the side rails.

Someday the county is going to finish the road (issues with developer) and when they do the road will be 3' wider and level, which will exacerbate the driveway. The County has assured me my driveway will be corrected when the road is done. They are also going to allow me to have a 24' wide entrance instead of the allowed 12'. Fortunately the chief guy at the County DOT is a camper, he came to the house to see the issues.
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Old 02-28-2021, 09:29 PM   #27
wingnut60
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You may not feel comfortable doing this, but worked well for me--I cut the entire flange off both side plates and the trailing edge even with the hitch itself. The side plates are there to spread the holding strength of the bolts. I was told by 2 certified welders that the bolts themselves are plenty to support the weight even without the side plates. Had a 38RSSA and '17 450 with a Retrax cover. After the cuts, did not have any more hits but really had to go slow if backing sharply and off-level. Had done the same thing with an '05 36TK3 and after many miles of towing, the plate/hitch never moved, nor did the '15 RSSA.
Used sawzall to cut and angle grinder to smooth out the sharp edges.
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Old 03-01-2021, 06:07 AM   #28
nytmare
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Originally Posted by porthole View Post
Both my prior and current driveway were/are a pain.

Last house I was on a cul-de-sac. 50' wide street and the end was big enough to easily do a U turn. We were at the end so I was able to pull in front, turn right and back straight in to the driveway.
But, the crown, lack of the top coat and and a steep driveway required a combination of boards to clear the rear hitch.
And before I backed I dumped all the air on the truck suspension and the TS-3 hitch to gain max clearance at the hitch.
Multiple 2x10's forming ramps 14' long and as high as 4 boards.

Current house, the street is only 18' wide, the crown is almost a foot on either side, swales on each side, my driveway drops off another foot right away and I have two stone columns to thread between, coming in at a 45 degree angle. My neighbors enjoy the show.

I was not able to get the trailer in the driveway when we closed on the house. I had to remove the tool box from the truck. Then it would only take about 20-25 minutes. I've since moved one stone column and can back in easily but I now put 100 psi in the hitch bags to gain as much clearance as I can for the side rails.

Someday the county is going to finish the road (issues with developer) and when they do the road will be 3' wider and level, which will exacerbate the driveway. The County has assured me my driveway will be corrected when the road is done. They are also going to allow me to have a 24' wide entrance instead of the allowed 12'. Fortunately the chief guy at the County DOT is a camper, he came to the house to see the issues.
Well... I fortunately don't have those problems. Just need to stop digging the bedrails. Would like to get a nicer hard tonneau cover, but the rails those things use would get destroyed in short order.
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Old 03-01-2021, 06:09 AM   #29
nytmare
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Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
You may not feel comfortable doing this, but worked well for me--I cut the entire flange off both side plates and the trailing edge even with the hitch itself. The side plates are there to spread the holding strength of the bolts. I was told by 2 certified welders that the bolts themselves are plenty to support the weight even without the side plates. Had a 38RSSA and '17 450 with a Retrax cover. After the cuts, did not have any more hits but really had to go slow if backing sharply and off-level. Had done the same thing with an '05 36TK3 and after many miles of towing, the plate/hitch never moved, nor did the '15 RSSA.
Used sawzall to cut and angle grinder to smooth out the sharp edges.
Thanks for the info wingnut. I'll have to see if I have a friend with a sawzall. I already checked an no one has a portable bandsaw.
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Old 03-01-2021, 11:38 AM   #30
porthole
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Originally Posted by nytmare View Post
Thanks for the info wingnut. I'll have to see if I have a friend with a sawzall. I already checked an no one has a portable bandsaw.
Home Depot Rental.
Or, harbor freight, look for sales. The Bauer band saw goes for $130.
When I bought mine it was around $120, on sale for $70 or $80 and I had a coupon which dropped it even further. I think I paid 50 or 60. Figured the quality is OK for one time use.
Got the job done and I've used it many times since.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nytmare View Post
Well... I fortunately don't have those problems. Just need to stop digging the bedrails. Would like to get a nicer hard tonneau cover, but the rails those things use would get destroyed in short order.
My TruckcoversUSA rails had some dings and dents.
I just straightened best I could and Rustoleum satin black to touch up. After the first ding it doesn't hurt as much.
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Old 03-01-2021, 12:07 PM   #31
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Right Angle grinder with a thin metal cutting disk, EZ-PZ.
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