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Old 07-29-2012, 12:41 PM   #1
imouttahere
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1st 5er, generator issue

Just picked up our MS 38RL3. Got it in a storage place until we close on the house in about 3 weeks - YEA!
However, since the unit isn't on shore pwr we ran the generator thinking it would run the AC. It's a 5500w onan and should handle at least one, if not both of the AC's. They don't come on. Only the thermostat that runs on 12v turns on. Also, the two ceiling fans don't come on. Is that the way DRV wired the unit?

Am I going to have to get someone to do some rewiring to get the AC's & fans on the generator circuit?

On another note, we found a truck to pull it - a pre-ownwed Chevy 550 desiel with a custom hauler bed (was previously owned by the owner (one of the owners?) of Heartland. Already has a Reese 20K 5er hitch, has air bags, and the company will put graphics on to match the trailer.
Also, weighed the trailer on the way down to the storage place & found out it only weighs 12,640 dry weight (no water or waste) but with two full propane tanks. I thought it was going to come in at around 14k or so.
So we'll be on shore power in another 6 weeks. Out of FL & on our way into the big wide RV world in March. Oh Boy.

Gary & Joanne
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:02 PM   #2
imouttahere
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1st 5er gen adendum

Forgot to say that when trying to get the AC to run on the gen, no other applicances/fans etc were running, the circuit breakers were on, and tried to get just one ac running with #2 ac circuit breaker off and also on. No combination worked.

gd
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:18 PM   #3
47hook
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Congratulations, we are expecting our 38RESB3 to be delivered to our dealer early August.

As far as the gen goes, it should power just about everything especially just 2 A/C's. Our 07 36TK3 had the same gen and would power both A/C's and a few other items no problem. Sounds like something is amiss. Did you say you have both gen circuit brkrs on the genset itself on? Batt in charging position and in the batt compartment on our old MS there was a resettable small circuit breaker attached to the side by the batts inline with the wires going to/from them that seemed to have something to do with "stuff" not working if tripped.

Good luck on finding the solution.
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:33 PM   #4
imouttahere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47hook
Did you say you have both gen circuit brkrs on the genset itself on? Batt in charging position and in the batt compartment on our old MS there was a resettable small circuit breaker attached to the side by the batts inline with the wires going to/from them that seemed to have something to do with "stuff" not working if tripped.

Good luck on finding the solution.
Didn't see brkrs on gen when I opened up the front panel, but then again, not real familer with the unit either. Will read the manual tonight.

Batt in charging position? Not sure what that means....

No circut breaker in the bat. compartment that I could see. There's one bat on a slide out & a ground post on the side wall next to it....

Anyone know of a person that's good with 5er electrical - specifically an MS unit? maybe in S FL? Might have to chase down all the wiring to make sure everything is correct...

gd
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:40 PM   #5
wingnut60
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Can't help with the gen problems, but the 'dry weight' can't be right. I am thinking you got the weight with the trailer on a tow vehicle? and forgot to add in the pin weight? This unit HAS to be around 15000+ gross, maybe more.
Joe
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:46 PM   #6
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Also, year of trailer?

On my '05, there is a circuit breaker inside the battery compartment, mounted on the right side wall--the positive cables go to it. If it is there, might be a 'small black button' on the side of the breaker, look real good at all 4 sides with a good light. If it is there, push it in to reset.

And there is a battery isolation switch in the hydraulic leg control panel--it should be pulled out for proper battery operation. Pushing it in turns off the 12 volt power to the trailer.

Also wishing you good luck with the new trailer.

Joe
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:47 PM   #7
imouttahere
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You're absoluty right! Guess I got happy too soon. Not sure of the pin weight. If I know the drive axle weight of the dodge ram 3500 on a reese 18k hitch with the trailer attached was 6700, how can I figure the actual hitch weight?

gd
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:51 PM   #8
imouttahere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut60
Also, year of trailer?

Also wishing you good luck with the new trailer.

Joe
Thanks Joe. It's an 07 38RL3. The 12v disconnect was pulled out and I'll look a little closer in the bat compart. to see if there's a reset switch.

gd
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:48 PM   #9
wingnut60
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gd,
To get all the correct weights, there are mostly 2 ways:
Weigh the truck as set up to tow, without the trailer hitched. Be sure to position the truck on the scales so that each axle is on a separate section of the scales. This will give you the truck axle weights.
Then get the trailer and reweigh with truck axles once again on separate sections. Subtract the 2 different rear axle weights and that will be the pin weight.
When I need these figures, here is how I do it: Find a multi-section CAT scales at a truck stop, hopefully one that isn't real busy. Talk to the cashier about that you will need 2 different weighings. Then, drive the truck and trailer onto the scales and position the front truck axle on one section, the rear truck axle on another section, and the trailer on the third section. Place the trailer so the front lifting legs are just on the third section also. Get the cashier to pull a weight as you sit there. After she gets the weight, extend the lifting legs to start raising the trailer, watching closely to see JUST WHEN the pin starts to lift off the hitch. DO NOT LIFT THE HITCH. Then get a 2nd weight. These figures will get you all the weight info you will ever need, EXCEPT should you need to know what each trailer wheel is supporting. That requires individual wheel scales.
Its a hassle to do all this, but you end up with really good information.

Also, on the generator issue--there should be a junction box on the outside of the gen compartment. While you are not connected to any power, and gen is off, take the cover off the junction box and check for loose connections. Outside of this, I know nothing about gens that will help. The junction box is the transfer switch to automatically direct power to the trailer when gen is in use.
Joe
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:18 PM   #10
imouttahere
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Hey Joe,

I know where that junction box is so I'll pull the cover & check it, thanks. As for the weight thing, I've got an approximate as to where it is now so once we move into it and have a truck to pull it with I'll weight it again so I know how much of the wife's things to get rid of to lighten the load. :lol:
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:49 PM   #11
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Pin weight is difference in rear axle weight Plus difference in front axle weight. Most 5ers will transfer some of the pin weight to the front axle too.
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:53 PM   #12
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I have the same rig as you with the built-in Onan 5500 generator. You need to open the front cover of the generator and look up the top left corner and see if the 20 and 30 amp breakers are on. This will keep any voltage from going to your breaker panel inside.
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:56 PM   #13
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I have the same rig as you with the built-in Onan 5500 generator. You need to open the front cover of the generator and look up the top left corner and see if the 20 and 30 amp breakers are on. This will keep any voltage from going to your breaker panel inside. The 5500 will run everything in that rig and I also went to a Samsung french door residential fridge. Best thing I ever done.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:10 PM   #14
imouttahere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGordon
I have the same rig as you with the built-in Onan 5500 generator. You need to open the front cover of the generator and look up the top left corner and see if the 20 and 30 amp breakers are on. This will keep any voltage from going to your breaker panel inside. The 5500 will run everything in that rig and I also went to a Samsung french door residential fridge. Best thing I ever done.
Good info on the gen switches, Ron. I'm sure between that & the connections on the transfer switch, one of those is the culpret. What kind of amps does your refer draw? Could that run off of a 2000w inverter with 675 Ah of electric being charged from 700 watts of solar? Do you have any wiring layout or schematics of that unit? Did I read somewhere that DRV wires for satellite? I noticed two roof vents in the forward left and right corners - can't figure what they're for.... Sorry - I probably sound like I'm a drowning man looking for a life ring. We got this unit and I know absolutely nothing about it except for the individual manuals for each appliance or whatever. Glad I have this forum & all of you experienced folk to help.

gd

gd
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:21 AM   #15
Motor31
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Dumb question. Isn't there a manual switch in the wiring that shunts power to the rig from the shore power input to the generator input? Could that be the issue?

The breaker from the battery compartment at the positive cable connection is only for 12 volt system and drops the battery from powering it like the disconnect switch does. It wouldn't have any impact on the AC units. Ours does trip under the heavy load of using the front hydraulic jacks to lift when hooked up to shore power.
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Old 08-01-2012, 10:05 AM   #16
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On my 38rl3 you have the breakers on the gen. that everyone is talking about, and then a (I believe) thermal protection reset located in the main storage compartment (open large storage door on entrance door side of coach and look forward on side of generator compartment) and that device feeds the automatic transfer switch. Good luck Marty.
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