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Old 01-03-2021, 04:25 PM   #1
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Changing Out Lippert Hydraulic Hoses

We have a 2016 38RSB3 DRV that is 5 years old this month. About a year or so ago, we noticed on a trip the kitchen slide started to creep out going down the road. This was very alarming and concern. We pulled over and reseated the slide and was fine. A couple trips later this happened again and actually several travel days on our vacation. This year on our September vacation, it happened again every day or so. Stopped into the DRV dealer in Logan, UT. Tech looked at it and said most likely a solenoid valve. After some research and testing I feel pretty comfortable it is a seal inside the slide cylinder that is not holding. After talking with DRV at the factory, I decided to just replace the cylinder. I have ordered again and hopefully will get this week. The first cylinder they sent was the wrong length and actually ended up being the one for the dinette slide. Anyway, opening up the area in the belly around the cylinder, I see that the hose on the cylinder is also leaking where the crimps are made. I have read many blogs on these cheap China hoses that Lippert is using on our RV's. This hose of course is the extend side which comes from the pump area off the main distribution block in the front. To replace this hose, you have to do a bunch of work on the belly just to get access. I am familiar with these hoses since I had two of the stabilizing jacks leaking where they connected same deal. I had Napa make up two replacement hoses couple months ago. We had another trip planned so I elected to replace and just tie wrap above to the frame above the suspension and would put back inside in the future.

So now I decided to tackle this beast and just replace all of these crappy hoses with good quality hoses. Since we have another trip planned middle of January, I can't tear all the underbelly out right now. I see a lot of users just take it back to the Lippert factory service center in IA. This time of the year and since I am just outside Houston, not practical to make that trip.
I have figured out the schematic on how DRV ran the hoses and estimated lengths for each one. Looks like 16 hoses (2 already replaced) totaling about 210 feet of hydraulic hose. Not for sure on cost (shopping around right now) of hose, fittings, and labor to build but estimate about $1200-$1500.
Will post as this progresses.
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Old 01-03-2021, 07:38 PM   #2
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Lippert factory is in Goshen, Indiana, not Iowa. Still not a good choice this time of year. I have never heard of anyone going there to have all their hoses changed, but I have heard of several people changing one hose before. Usually made by a local shop. The hoses are made at the DRV factory for each specific unit.. Have no idea which country the hose or fittings come from. Good luck

Bill
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Old 01-04-2021, 08:06 AM   #3
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My bad on the state initials, I knew it was in Indiana. I may be mistaken thinking that the hoses are supplied from Lippert. I made the assumption that since all these blogs on people having issues, related to the orange and black thin walled hoses. I figured Lippert supplies all of the components. If DRV is making the hoses, then I am really disappointed in them since we paying top dollar for these RV's and using cheaper hoses and fittings. Your operating pressures are up around 2500# and using 3000# rated hoses. I would think to upgrade the quality of hoses and fittings to 6000# would be peanuts in cost of these units. I have five so far that are seeping at the fittings with two ballooned in the hose. Being only 5 years I feel like this is totally unacceptable.
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Old 01-05-2021, 04:27 PM   #4
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Well I pulled the trigger yesterday and went to Katy Hydraulic here in Katy, TX. I estimated lengths of all the hoses and then added 3' for error. The new hoses are rated at #6200 working pressure with matching fittings. It is double braided steel wire reinforced. The replacement hoses should hold up much better. 14 hoses, fittings, and labor was $802. This was much cheaper than going to Napa as the 2 I replaced last month. Weather pending, will try to get started this weekend on the front landing jacks. I can do them without removing the belly covering..
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Old 01-08-2021, 10:56 PM   #5
Cummins12V98
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Independent Hydraulic Hose Company is the best place to go. YES the fittings DRV supplies are CHICOM JUNK.

I really doubt your ram is defective. Most likely a solenoid.
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Old 01-11-2021, 06:00 PM   #6
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I have a 2016 36RSSB3, I had the exact issue you are describing with the same slide. It's a little unnerving whe you look in the mirror and see the slide hanging out. I have found that if I operate that slide last in the breakdown mode, it doesn't move. So when we are breaking down, we pull all slides in, all stabilizers in and then I run the kitchen slide out a few inches and back in and it stays in. I can't find the problem and have talked to several people, never Lippert, but what we are doing solves the issue. I don't think it's the solenoid valve because it either works or it doesn't. I tend to think there might be a check valve not holding. Whatever it is, if I do as described, problem is solved. It's cheap and easy.
Tim
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Old 01-11-2021, 06:08 PM   #7
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2016 39RESB3 having same problem! Anyway we can talk?
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Old 01-11-2021, 09:59 PM   #8
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Lopez,
Who do you want to talk to, OP?
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Old 01-12-2021, 04:54 PM   #9
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Joleyred,
Thank you for your help i was needing to get in touch with Exposed if at all possible.
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Old 01-13-2021, 04:49 PM   #10
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Rlopez, I sent a PM for you to Exposed.
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Old 01-13-2021, 07:28 PM   #11
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Sorry, was out of town this weekend and just getting caught up. Glad to see I am not the only one with this problem. I can be reached at calvin.brown@ccb-design.com. I would be happy to talk to anyone on what I have figured out and my plans on redoing the hoses.
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Old 01-15-2021, 10:28 AM   #12
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Planning on starting the work on replacing hoses probably next weekend. I need to put RV back in the barn and elevate on some blocks to give me more working room under it. I have been researching all the information I can find on replacing and bleeding air out of the system when opening up. I also have worked up a schematic on the system so I can label all the new hoses since they are mostly different lengths. Also made a chart I took to the hydraulic hose guy for him to use in lengths of each hose. I will attach both if someone is interested. Will update as project continues...
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File Type: pdf Hydraulic-Layout.pdf (35.6 KB, 15 views)
File Type: pdf HYDRAULIC-SCHEMATIC-BOM.pdf (36.2 KB, 14 views)
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Old 01-15-2021, 12:55 PM   #13
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Nice layout chart
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Old 01-16-2021, 09:18 AM   #14
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Thank you, Exposed; I printed out both pages. I'm sure this will assist all of us that may have future problems. Would you post, please, where you downloaded the schematic? Even though your's is probably similar, I would like to get the exact schematic for my 2017 36RSSB3.
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Old 01-16-2021, 10:17 AM   #15
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I talked to DRV and Lippert to come up the schematic. I created it with their information and my physically figuring out the layout. Since I changed out two of the hoses already I saw how they had ran the hoses. Since I have not completely removed the belly, my dinette slide is the only one I have not verified how it is tied in. I feel pretty comfortable since I traced out that side when replacing hoses. I actually had also downloaded a couple of schematics I found on the Lippert site reference from Greg at DRV. I will find those and post later today.
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Old 01-16-2021, 11:58 AM   #16
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Nice job, thanks!
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:36 PM   #17
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Well today is a successful day in preparation of the work on the hydraulic system. Spend most of the day cleaning my trailer bay in the shop so would have room and clean floor to work from. DRV is in the shop now and also cut a couple 2"x6"'s to pull up on to for another 1 1/2" clearance underneath. I also decided to post a couple more documents on what information I had found between Lipper and DRV. The 6 point jacks pdf show how to install the system. On page 17 there is a good diagram showing the plumbing on the hydraulic. My system is pretty much like this except the main extend valve block has two more taps with hoses and solenoid valves for both slides. One for each slide. The slide retracts are tied into the leveling jack returns.
The cylinder test pdf shows how to trouble shoot the slide cylinder for internal bleeding. I figure to gather two high pressure gauges and misc. hydraulic fittings, I would just replace the cylinder and be sure. If it showed internal leaking I would replace anyway. That is all for today... After trying to attach the Lippert document it was too large (6 megs) for upload. I snapped a PDF of just the page 17 instead. If anyone wants the complete PDF, just email me your address and I will send to you..
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File Type: pdf cylinder_test.pdf (276.0 KB, 10 views)
File Type: pdf Layout.pdf (196.1 KB, 7 views)
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Old 01-16-2021, 06:58 PM   #18
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Clev, sorry I missed your request. If you go to lci1.com, that is the root of their stuff. On the left there is a tab for Products and Capabilities. If you go there, you look for product like Leveling Systems. Then at the bottom there generally is a download PDF with information in it. You have to look at individual products and may find what you are needing. The PDF I could not attach because of size is location in one of those areas. Would have to go back through to find. I think all these RV manufactures use that document as the go by to install the 6 jack system like we have. Since the slides are a different product, there is probably one but could not find. They don't have information (PDF's) on all there products or at least I did not find.. Hope this helps...
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Old 01-17-2021, 12:28 AM   #19
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Thank you, Exposed.
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Old 01-17-2021, 10:41 AM   #20
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I went out to the shop this morning to evaluate where to place jack stands under the front of the DRV so can take load off the landing jacks. I also decided to do a test on the slide cylinder. I noticed yesterday when retracting the leveling jacks, the slides were already in. By the time I was complete in retracting, the slide had came out almost completely. Thinking about this last night, I came up with this conclusion. When the slide is in, the solenoid valve is closed. So the extend portion of the cylinder is blocked in. Since the retract side is all tied together, if you retract any cylinder (jacks/slides), pressure is applied to the retract side of the hydraulics. Normally, if the solenoid remains closed, no flow is allowed since it is blocked in from the solenoid. However, if any cylinder is allowed pressure to bleed over internally in the cylinder, that pressure will take the path of least resistance and apply pressure to the opposite side of the cylinder until both sides equalize then it will stop moving. So as a test this morning after looking for jack stand placement, I closed off the slide. Then I extended leveling jacks down. Once down, there was no movement of the slide. The solenoid held pressure and did not allow to pass to the slide cylinder. So then, I retracted the leveling jacks, immediately, the slide started to extend. When finished retracting leveling jacks, the slide was already completely extended. From this observation, I feel pretty comfortable that I have a cylinder that is allowing internal bypass of pressure when applied to the cylinder. If someone has another theory, please let me know. At this point, I feel pretty good that my issue here is with the cylinder and not the solenoid coil or valve. If the valve was not completely closing, it would start going out when any button to extend would be pressed.
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