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Old 11-30-2010, 09:04 PM   #21
Mike2338
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jcasey,

Thanks for the website but I am told the 'king' in the MS is 72x80. Same width but 4 inches shorter than the CA King.

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Old 11-30-2010, 11:16 PM   #22
jcasey
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Yes, the "King" in a Mobile Suites isn't a 76 x 80 standard King. I think it is a 72 x 80 mattress---or a short version of the California King. The non-short, or full version of the California King is 72 x 84

Now I am getting confused!
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Old 12-01-2010, 12:03 PM   #23
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We are in the pre order stage.

Our dealer didn't think the SeeLevel guage was needed. He also didn't think we should do the roll out tray in the basement.

His recommends:dual batteries, Trail Air suspension w/o the pin box, BMW hitch, Fantastic fan in Kitchen, Power management, LP Quick disconnect for outside grill (door side), drawer under the bed, run RG6 cables to bedrm, dealer install PressurePro, Surge Guard Protector.

We were thinking 15.0 AC in bedroom, he recommended 13.5 so you could add the heat strip.

My own mods are delete carpet, delete oven (just a stovetop), 2 extra pantry shelves, one extra shelf in linen closet, add an outlet to the right of the stove,delete window in bath, add longer mirrored cabinet. Delete recliners, have LazBoy sent for the build, Queen bed. DRV to install Instant hot water faucet on sink, and tankless hot water on coach. Added tub combo.

So ?. What about the Gas Magnum Shocks? Upgrade microwave? Sleep number bed? Thank you so much. If anyone has any other mods, places to add outlets, etc, now's the time. :)
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:26 PM   #24
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Depending on the style of "camping" you do, he may be correct about the SeeLevel guages but I make that statement based on not needing any guages once you become familiar with your coach. If you are sitting in one spot for any length of time you'll very quickly determine how many days you can go with normal daily routines before dumping or fill up with fresh is required.

If you're going to require tank guages of any type GET THE SEE LEVEL ONES as the others aren't worth c**p! Opinion only here; DRV should be installing them as OEM equipment instead of the others anyway as they actually work and do not require holes in the tanks for the stupid probes.

Why delete the Trailair pinbox. I found that to be one of the best options I could have ordered and I kept it even though I later installed an air hitch on my International. If towing with one of the pick-ups I'd think it or a facsimile would be a must. Magnum suspension option used to include the heavier axles, hydraulic disc brakes and the gas charged shocks. I'd go with the gas charged shocks regardless. The roads ain't gett'n any better out there and the air pinbox and gas charged shocks will be helping your trailer out even if you don't notice any ride imrovement at all.

Now; dealer installed Pressure Pro? We're talking about a minimum of DIY skills here to find a spot in the cab for the panel and then hook power and optional antenna wire to it if you need it. Programming the thing is as easy as screwing the sensors onto the valve stems one at a time and waiting for it to sense the sensor before moving on to the next one.

I agree with his other suggestions of cabling to bdrm and hard wired 50 amp surge guard. His thinking about the 13.5K A/C in the bedroom has merit IF you cannot add a heat strip to the 15K unit. The 15 K unit can be ordered as a heat pump but it loses efficiency below 40F degrees whereas a heat strip doesn't and will easily keep providing heat below that mark. Only you know what temps you're likely to encounter in your travels.

I tend to agree with him about the roll-out tray. While it makes getting to stuff in the center of the basemant easier it takes up a lot of room itself and again; only you know how much "stuff" you're likely to be carrying down there.
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Old 12-01-2010, 01:47 PM   #25
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Thank you for your thoughtful reply.

I'll price the Pressure Pro to see how much we save with DIY.

The 15.0 ac can't do a heat strip.

His reasoning on the pin box was that if you had air on the hitch side you would get a trampoline effect.We are 5th wheel newbies, and still have to research hitches etc.

Anyone have microwave advice? Is the Advantium worth the upgrade?
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Old 12-01-2010, 03:50 PM   #26
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"run RG6 cables to bedrm" Why ? For what ?

For a PC, use a wireless router, for TV, use a HDMI cable

I also use both the air pin, and air hitch, they work great together.

Agree about the oven delete....we cook all the time, and in 4 years of fulltime, we have never used the oven except for storage.

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Old 12-01-2010, 08:28 PM   #27
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Beachgirl,

You mentioned BMW hitch. Is that intended for the rear of the coach? Or, is it a B&W hitch which is a turn-over ball and using a "gooseneck" adapter that fits down over the turn-over ball?

If you are referring to the turn-over ball with a gooseneck adapter, I really advise against those with coachs as heavy as the DRV's are. From what I've been told, those type of adapters put additional strain on the frame of the coach, especially in the front.

Here is a link to a gooseneck adapter on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/5th-Wheel-Goos.../dp/B000NDL4TU

Terry
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Old 12-01-2010, 08:31 PM   #28
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Unless Drv has made a change the RG 6 cables will already be wired to the bedroom. We also deleted the oven, never use the oven in our last 3 5th wheels.

As for the Trailair pin box, had them before and we have a Trailer Saver air ride and had no need for the Trailair pin box saved money. I deleted the bath room windows and should have deleted the window behind the TV never use it. One of the best options was the Winguard Traveler roof mounted HD dish. We also had Drv make a place for our HD receiver under the cabinets below the bedroom TV.
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:51 PM   #29
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Thank you all for your replies. He must have been saying B&W hitches because he did mention turn over ball. I'm such a newbie I didn't get what he was saying, lol.

I'm not sure what he wanted the cables in the bdrm for...I was thinking I would just connect a DVD player via HDMI to the TV.

We have had a travel trailers for 15 years now, and I never use the oven, either.
Ok, I think I will do a search and get on top of this hitch business.

Also, thinking of putting a drawer under the queen bed...
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:39 AM   #30
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When I ordered our rig the trailer saver hitch was part of the package. You got it free if you ordered the suspension from them. I would not be without it. There is a shock ON the pin box to dampen oscillation. No one I have talked to gets a "trampoline" effect. I also have air bags on my tow vehicle and certainly get no suspension bounce from them either.

We like the oven. Once an oven tie is in place it works great. Nancy uses it all the time for cornbread and other stuff. We wouldn't be without it.

Class 6 cables should be standard for TV purposes. It was back on 05, no reason to change now.

If you do camp in hot areas the 15k AC unit will come in handy. Frankly, we have found that we can heat the bedroom with a small portable space heater far warmer than we like it. Having said that I wish we had gotten the heat pump option there as well as in the main trailer AC. We do not spend time in a really cold area. We go to Tucson AZ for the coldest months. Yes it will occasionally get down to the 20's there. At that point we want the furnace to run as the basement needs to be heated to prevent freezing to the pipes and tanks anyhow. The space heaters mean that we can still have the heat pump and the space heater if all the park has is 30 amp service. That won't be the case with dual heat pumps unless you turn one off.

If you intend to use the tank gages at all the see level will work. Shortly after you get the unit the normal black tank gage will be non functional as it will get fouled. If you want to know the level in the tanks, including the grey, get the see level now. Forget the old style, they are a waste of time.

Shocks are a good idea on the suspension IF they do a proper job of placing and welding the mounts. I had to have mine re welded since the factory didn't do the job right to begin with. I found out by finding one shock hanging with the frame mount broken. Others have had shocks bent because the mounts were placed too close together. These units NEED good shocks to protect the trailer and contents not to mention maintain control of the rig.

Unless you need a super duper microwave or convection oven, the upgrade is really pricey.
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:53 AM   #31
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RG 6 cable

RG 6 cable is necessary for sat/HD signal--I thought they already put them in, but maybe not. RG 59 won't do the sat--in my '05, already have the 6 in from service to ent center--don't know about the bedroom since we don't use that TV.
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:08 AM   #32
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As for the Tank guages, they IMHO are useless. I never pay any attention to them. As someone on another said, might as well paint over them. After being in the Suites for awhile you will know when to dump. When at a site for extended stays I leave the Grey tank valve open. But never leave you black tank valve open except to dump. Use lots of water and back flush until the water is clear.

As for the B&W turnover ball with the Companion 5th wheel hitch. There is a 18,000 lb capacity when in use. As we all know several of the Suites are over that capacity. I used a B&W system with a Heartland Landmark and the 2009 Mobile Suites 36 Tk 3. I talked to the factory about anyway to increase the 18,000 lb capacity when we went to the 2010 38RSSB 3 with the vanity slide. Factory said no way. So I went with the Trailer Saver Air ride 5th wheel hitch 32,000 lb capacity.

If I was ordering a new Suites I would have Drv design a place that you will be able to mount the HD receiver or a DVR system, unless you want to have the systems set on the cabinet top. We had Drv design a place to set the HD receiver. Very Professional job by the way.

I have also had those heat strips, really wasn't what I expected. As said a cheap small electric heater will do much better. We do have a Fireplace in our Bedroom and it works great. We can heat the Suites with the two Fireplaces, however when below freezing I always use the furnace because it will heat the basement compartment.
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:59 AM   #33
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Beachgirl

You mention the Pressure Pro TPMS, you may want to consider the TST sytem. Here's a link.

http://www.tsttruck.com/
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:46 PM   #34
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Also for Beachgirl,

Just for your information, Jo and I got the Canadian package with two 30,000 btu furnaces and 2 15K A/C units, both with the heat pumps. We have a indoor/outdoor wireless thermometer and when the temperature is above 40 degrees, we use the heat pumps. If it drops below 40 degrees, then we switch to the furnaces.

Like Delaine and Lindy suggested, we are looking at purchasing 1 or 2 small electric/ceramic heaters to supplement our other heating systems, including the rear fireplace. We saw one at Walmart that looks more stylish than others made by Lasko. Here are links to their models. One model, the 6435 has a remote control and the other model the 6410 does not, although they both have the same specifications otherwise.

First the 6435:

http://laskoproducts.com/heaters/model_6435.html


Second, the 6410:

http://laskoproducts.com/heaters/model_6410.html

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Old 12-02-2010, 03:03 PM   #35
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The confusion on the Trailair pin box may be from your dealer stating the trampoline effect may be a result of adding the trailair pinbox to another air bladder system either incorporated within then hitch mounted in the trucks bed such as a TrailerSaver or an air suspension system on your trucks rear axle and I'm here to tell you tha's bunk of the first order!

As Mike explained above: the Trailair Pinbox has a shock abosorber to control/dampen rebound.

Your trucks rear suspension WILL have shock absorbers regardles if it is a spring with air bag assist or air only suspension.

I towed with a Gene McCall Airglyder hitch that had two air bladders for vertical movement with shock abosorbers and my truck also had a full air suspension but again with shock absorbers as all vehicles do. I never noticed any occaasion of the front of the trailer behving as though it were on a trampoline as all of these systems have different compression rates and are dampened on their rebound.

To look in the mirror and see the front of your trailer floating slightly while going over terrrble highway sections gives one a wonderful piece of mind reassurance that the pinbox framing of the trailer isn't being beat to death.

While having an air pinbox may not be of concern IF you have a Trailersaver or other air assisted hitch in the truck I would certainly have one REGARDLESS of what type of suspension your truck has. JMHO
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:29 PM   #36
Beachgirl
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Just About to Order

Wow! I go on a cruise for a week and come home to some great, thoughtful replies! Thank you so much!

Terry: The Lasko heater is on sale at Walmart right now for $36.88. Doesn't appear to be the model with the remote, but the price is right! It's also quite classy looking. I am now leaning towards 15 btu in bdrm ac: we camp in the hot far more often than cold. Is there much of a difference between the 13 btu and the 15? And you would then do the heat pump on the bdrm A/C, yes?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lasko-Desi...ReviewTitleBar

To Bstark, Terry , The View and others:

Ok, I think we now have a rudimentary knowledge of hitches, lol. Enough to begin asking intelligent questions, lol. I think I read elsewhere that Delaine thought the B&W was one of the best hitches he'd had; so that supports my dealer's thoughts; though with an MS38' I will probably run up against that 18k pound limit.

However, everything I've read has pretty much convinced us to use either the air pin box or an air hitch; air something! Since we are buying a new truck, we can choose either. Is the cost of a hitch plus TrailAir Pin box about the same as a TrailerSaver air hitch?

I really want to avoid any chucking, etc. So tell me what you think is the best way to go, pin box/ hitch wise. And if you say Trailair w/ triGlide, then also recommend a hitch. And also whether or not you think we should do both- the Trailair Triglide in addition to an air hitch such as TrailerSaver.

Thank you all again sooo much!

Also, I decided to go ahead and do the bunk bed mod. It might also appeal to some of you grandparents out there who don't have a washer/dryer in the coach. I am also adding the tankless hot water heater. I can already tell you that is a surefire winner! We've had one in our Sunnybrook for 13 years!


Thanks again! We finalize our order this week! :)
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:45 AM   #37
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Get the 15000 A/Cs, you can turn them down; but you can't turn the 13.5s up when maxxed out. Trust me, you need 2 in 100+ temps.
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:58 AM   #38
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Beachgirl,

From what I've been told by others here and on SOITC's forums, I would suggest the two 15K air conditioners, especially since you say you will be more in the warm country than cold.

While Jo and I think the Lasko is stylish looking, it is a ceramic heater. I don't know if there is a fan in the system. I do know it oscillates back and forth, so I would presume there is a fan. On one of the forums that I frequent, there has been a long running discussion of the Vornado brand electric heaters. Here is a link to that discussion. It runs something like 25 pages.

http://www.myrvtalk.com/interior/307...o-heaters.html

As for the hitch, we have a Reese 20 or 22K fifth wheel in the pickup and the Trail-aire Pinbox with tri-glide on the MS. We pulled it to Carthage, MO back in October to a mini-rally and other than a couple of times on bridges, there was absolutely no chucking. I should also add that most of that driving was on Oklahoma roads. (Ask any RV'er about Oklahoma roads.)

We also have the Trail-Aire suspension on the MS as well. When ordering the MS, we didn't know about the tri-glide on the pin box, but ours came with it, so I would guess that it is standard with the Trail-Aire pin box. But, check with your dealer to see if it is necessary to also get the Trail-Aire suspension. By the way, we really like the system, even for the little time we've pulled the MS.

Terry
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:35 AM   #39
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As far as hitches go, do get the air hitch in the truck. You won't be sorry later. If you use a Light duty truck (Any pickup model LTD) then the tri-glide on the trailair pinbox on the MS is a good choice to add to the air hitch in the truck. If you go with a MDT or HDT (as we use) no need for tri-glide since there is Zero chucking. Chucking is a result of the tail wagging the dog with the heavy trailer and lighter truck.

Any rigid hitch will not give you as good a ride in the truck or trailer in a LDT as a air ride hitch does.

I second the 2 15K AC with heat pumps. You will use them and they are always there in case you need them. Not so if you under equip in the start. We use the heat pump all the time unless really cold out. Wish we had the 15K with heat pump in the front. We have a 13K. 2 15K would also be much better for AC!

Bill
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Old 12-13-2010, 08:01 AM   #40
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I agree about the 2-15k AC's. We were fine with 1-13.5k in the bedroom of our 06-ES 36TK3. But the 09-38' MS seems to soak up and retain the heat longer when you're in a sunny site. The 15k seems to make less noise.

We found this heater at a WM in Paducah, KY last month. It's really lightweight, sides and back stay cool, so can be butted up against the kitchen island. It has a lever to aim air flow up or down and throws off more heat with the fan, but is nearly as quiet as the oil-filled heaters w/o a fan.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lasko-Cycl...eater/12568625

Like the idea of a tankless water heater. Eventually, we'll convert ours.
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