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09-30-2010, 02:29 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 49
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dump valve problems
Hi You all; I need some advice please. I have an 04 36TK3. Have had a problem with the grey water dump valve forever. It appears the routing of the cable makes it do a weird twist, therefore binding the cable in it's sheath.
There appears there is no option to re-route it.
I was considering an electric dump valve, but see folks are even having lots of problems with those.
I hope someone has found a cure for my dump valve problem. How about it, has someone got a cure?
Thanks
OB
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97 Dodge 3500 DRW 4 by 4
04 36TK3 #1207 w/5th airborne pin hitch
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09-30-2010, 11:39 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Boydton, VA
Posts: 443
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We all have the same problem...stupid engineering....wonder if the newer rigs still have the same issue.....
Regards
Gemstone
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No longer on the road.
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10-01-2010, 09:13 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Home Prescott, Az
Posts: 1,019
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I was at a rally talking to the distributor of the electric dump valves. He said almost without fail, anyone having difficulty with the valve has it installed incorrectly. The people at the rv plant do not read installation instructions and if it is not positioned correctly, will stick or leak. After talking to him I think when it comes time to replace my manual valve I will go with the electric and read the instructions for install. (I mean: my wife will read the instructions & tell me what to do) :oops:
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2013 Tiffin Allegro 34 QFA
2015 Cadillac SRX (towed)
2019 Tesla Model X
1991 Avanti Conv
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10-01-2010, 09:46 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stripit
I was at a rally talking to the distributor of the electric dump valves. He said almost without fail, anyone having difficulty with the valve has it installed incorrectly. The people at the rv plant do not read installation instructions and if it is not positioned correctly, will stick or leak. After talking to him I think when it comes time to replace my manual valve I will go with the electric and read the instructions for install.
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Which manufacturer was being discussed. I'm looking at one made by "Drain Master". Guess we all take a pass on reading the instructions.
Thanks
OB
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97 Dodge 3500 DRW 4 by 4
04 36TK3 #1207 w/5th airborne pin hitch
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10-01-2010, 07:45 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 288
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The black valve control finally broke so yesterday I received 2 Drainmaster valves and all the parts to install with two sets of switches. I'll take pictures and post when I install them. First I need to replace all the spring bolts and get the RV off jacks.
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Leo and Janice
2007 MS 36 TK3 Glide Ride pin box
2012 GMC 3500HD D/A CC 4X4 DRW AirSafe Hitch
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10-01-2010, 08:04 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Home Prescott, Az
Posts: 1,019
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It was Drain Master. The fellow said in many cases the mounting area is too tight to install the unit in the correct position, so they(factory guys) rotate it and that allows the valve to trap paper and other things in the rubber seal. If installed right, nothing will become trapped and the valve will seal every time.
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2013 Tiffin Allegro 34 QFA
2015 Cadillac SRX (towed)
2019 Tesla Model X
1991 Avanti Conv
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10-02-2010, 07:21 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pensacola, Fl
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stripit
It was Drain Master. The fellow said in many cases the mounting area is too tight to install the unit in the correct position, so they(factory guys) rotate it and that allows the valve to trap paper and other things in the rubber seal. If installed right, nothing will become trapped and the valve will seal every time.
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Stacy. I'll get a pair of the drain master valves and hope they can be installed correctly. Thanks for the help.
OB
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97 Dodge 3500 DRW 4 by 4
04 36TK3 #1207 w/5th airborne pin hitch
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10-02-2010, 09:09 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Illinois-summer,winter-some where else
Posts: 336
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drain valves
Please let us know how it works out for you, I would like to do the same.
I was thinking about just getting the fitting and mounting the shut off just under the belly of the trailer and leaving the manual valve open.
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12 Blue Elite #6296 38RS3
08 chevy C3500
09 yel spyder toad
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10-02-2010, 07:17 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Atoka, TN & North Ft Myers, FL
Posts: 158
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Another suggestion you might want to look at, I installed a 3" manual valve right at the end cap where you connect your hose. I got tired of the surprises and not knowing whether or not the valves was holding. One of the best additions I have made. Another modification that I made was to install conduit unistrut hangers to hold the 3" pipe steady. The only flimsly strap allows the sewer piping to move back and forth on rough highways, breaking pipe fittings up inside the plastic compartment under the bottom. It also caused the pipe clamps to work loose where they connect to the grey water tank. The stationary pipe hanger stopped all the movement. I got tired of constantly making piping repairs and looking for a hardware stores.
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Ron & Libby Gordon
2007 F350 Ford Lariat Diesel DRW CC
2007 Mobile Suite 38RL3 #3698
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10-03-2010, 01:41 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 9
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Hi Ron
I would like more info on your unistrut clamp mod. I want to put one on mine. Thanks for any info.
Later, Vern
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10-03-2010, 09:42 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,130
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I'm considering moving the location of where the drain pipe terminates under the rig. I am not happy at all putting the plumbing right next to the tires. That placement leaves the plumbing very vulnerable should a tire fail. It's bad enough dealing with a blown tire on the side of the road much less a broken drain system as well. I really see no reason why the "geniuses" at DRV put the pipe under the slide where it's so convenient to reach it with the slide out. It's like they never have ever used an RV or something.
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Mike Nancy and the fuzzies
Fulltiming since June 2004
Volvo 660 MH tow vehicle
2005 MS 38RL
2007 Saturn Ion "toad"
2010 Gold Wing "piggyback"
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10-03-2010, 11:01 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 288
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Early on I shortened both pipes from where they exit the underbelly cover and the drain connection. I didn't like the plumbing near the tires or having the connection way under the slide. Now the exit is under the forward edge of the slide and easy to get to with the slide out.
I know they have rules about how close to the fresh water connection the drain can be when they manufacture but I think I can be careful not to contaminate.
I repaired the broken spring bolt (had to replace the spring) so maybe next Saturday I can work on installing the electric valves.
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Leo and Janice
2007 MS 36 TK3 Glide Ride pin box
2012 GMC 3500HD D/A CC 4X4 DRW AirSafe Hitch
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10-03-2010, 11:18 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 288
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Thought I would add a couple of pictures. Forgot to mention the addition of the third shutoff valve close to the connection like RGordon recommended. He's right about it being one of the best add-ons.
The cover is loose because I was checking the broken gray drain control.
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Leo and Janice
2007 MS 36 TK3 Glide Ride pin box
2012 GMC 3500HD D/A CC 4X4 DRW AirSafe Hitch
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10-03-2010, 02:44 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 158
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anijet, do you access the dump valves from that cover you have partially removed or do you have to cut the coroplast belly? Can the electric valves be installed through that cover?
On our previous 5er, an Alfa, it had 3 electric valves (1 black tank & 2 grey) and in 3 years never had a problem. Don't know the manufacturer.
Thanks.
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Olympic Peninsula, WA
2008 3500HD LTZ CC 4X4 Duramax/Allison /Banks IQ / Economind tuner / SpeedBrake
2013 MS 38RESB3 #6393, modified with ES stuff & Garnet Paint
"The older I get, the better I was!"
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10-03-2010, 03:31 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 288
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The 1.5 inch gray water valve is in the coverwhich is the one that is broken. The 3" black is between the hot water heater and the black tank on our unit. It is accessed from the off door side sliding door in the basement behind the fresh water filter. I want to install the electric valves down stream of the existing valves and just leave them open but if I need to work on the electric valves in the future I can use the existing valves to shut off ahead of the electric valves.
__________________
Leo and Janice
2007 MS 36 TK3 Glide Ride pin box
2012 GMC 3500HD D/A CC 4X4 DRW AirSafe Hitch
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10-03-2010, 03:49 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central California
Posts: 288
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Another picture.
__________________
Leo and Janice
2007 MS 36 TK3 Glide Ride pin box
2012 GMC 3500HD D/A CC 4X4 DRW AirSafe Hitch
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10-04-2010, 09:45 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,130
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Our black tank valve failed over 3 years ago. The RV service place we stopped at East of Wichita worked us in right off of the road. Great folks and I was very grateful since the frickin black tank had been full when the valve died. The valve had failed at the seals and they replaced it with a standard short handle valve because they did not have any cable valves on hand. I dump the black tank from inside the basement and really that is no problem for me. It's just inside the sliding door and I can also check for leaks or other problems with the plumbing while there. The lack of a cable means the effort needed to operate the valve is minimal and I can flush the tank easily. The grey valve is still on the cable ans I am dreading it's inevitable failure.
__________________
Mike Nancy and the fuzzies
Fulltiming since June 2004
Volvo 660 MH tow vehicle
2005 MS 38RL
2007 Saturn Ion "toad"
2010 Gold Wing "piggyback"
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10-04-2010, 11:28 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Atoka, TN & North Ft Myers, FL
Posts: 158
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Vern, here is the unistrut clamp and manual 3 inch sewer that was added to my system. This finally stabilized the entire system and have had no more broken pipe fittings or leaks. Hope the attached pictures comes through. You had requested a picture!
__________________
Ron & Libby Gordon
2007 F350 Ford Lariat Diesel DRW CC
2007 Mobile Suite 38RL3 #3698
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10-05-2010, 05:41 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: way down here, FL
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGordon
Vern, here is the unistrut clamp and manual 3 inch sewer that was added to my system. This finally stabilized the entire system and have had no more broken pipe fittings or leaks. Hope the attached pictures comes through. You had requested a picture!
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Ron,
Where can the unistrut be purchased from?
Thanks
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Jack
06 F-350 Lariat 4x4 V-10 CC SRW LB
06 Mobile Suites 36CK3
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10-05-2010, 12:07 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 9
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Thanks for the picture Ron. I knew what a unistrut was but I was not clear on what you used to get the proper mounting spacing. Did you fabricate the bracket, that is mounted to the frame/floor pan? It looks like there are only mounting bolts on the one end ??
Thanks again, Vern
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