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Old 04-07-2017, 01:26 PM   #15
wingnut60
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
First, if not auto-level, then the unit must be leveled side/side using blocks (1 & 2" x 8" wood is common) before unhitching. If unlevel s/s, and you can't move it, you will have to jack the low side up and put something under the tires.
Then, you use the front jacks to raise/lower the unit until it shows level. Then you lower the rear jacks to stabilize the whole trailer.
DO NOT use the rear jacks to actually lift the trailer, frame is not designed for that. You will see the rear end start to rise when extending the rear stabilizing jacks--that is the time to stop. Also, for long-term stability, it usually is best to have some blocks under the jacks to keep them from being extended to near maximum. I think you have said this is more/less permanent setup? If so, and you have a hydraulic leak, but system works (justs leaks) you can figure out how to place solid jacks under the frame to keep it from leaning if the jacks move.
Second, the D/W was in the trailer from the factory and, sorry, can't remember the brand. It was located to right of the double sink and power/water/drain run to sink. The stove/oven put in was an Amana, nothing fancy, but my wife wanted an oven. The install could not be told from factory install, but you lose the 2 drawers below the cooktop for storage.
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2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
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