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Old 03-15-2021, 02:39 PM   #57
Exposed
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 28
I got the KantLeak manifold changed out this weekend. Went pretty smooth except for a couple of things. The top and bottom hoses on the heater bypass have to be switched for the new manifold. Normally that might not be a big deal but this pex tubing is almost as rigid as copper tubing. I assume new it is easier to bend but 5 years old is pretty stiff. Also has to roll the connection 180 degrees to connect. Anyway, I was worried about it leaking after I forced connector to roll. With the two different seals I bought, the shorter one (Aqua) was too short. When connected, the screwed connector would bottom out before compressing. So the Flair-It seals were the correct one to use. I also noticed the line going to the pump suction had a check valve installed which made that line about 1" too long. Since it is a straight shot to the pump, I had to cut it off and shorten to get it installed. Once all connected back up, cut the water on and knock on wood, no leaks. Left water on all night and still good so think we are in good shape. It would not be a difficult job to do except the hot/cold water manifolds are right in the front of access. You have only about a 4" square opening to get to the connections on the KantLeak manifold.

Also, the syringe I ordered (thanks to Cummins recommendation) came in Saturday. It worked great in removing about a quart from the reservoir. I would recommend this for also adding to the reservoir since it is hard to get to.

I think RLopez got started on his project on replacing his hydraulic hoses and slide cylinders this weekend. Hopefully will keep us posted on his progress. Also he was looking at having the cylinders rebuilt instead of ordering new ones. I am curious since I would consider having my old ones rebuilt and keep as spares if ever needed again.
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2016 DRV MS 38RSSB3
2019 Ford F-450 Lariat
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