PDA

View Full Version : Hydrolics w/o Battery


nelsonraymond
03-11-2008, 12:08 PM
Hi
While we were sitting for the last 2 months we had one battery go bad right away, (it cooked itself) so we disconnected the battery by using the button option. Well we had some very windy days during the 2 months, so we pulled in two of the 3 slides. We noticed the second time when we did so that the slides moved very slow. When we went to hitch up and pull out we were hooked up to shore power but could hardly get the hydrolics to work. Even with the Battery button now in the on position. The front hydrolic jacks only moved about 1 inch at a time and stopped. I would have to wait about 30 seconds and then hit the button again. We weren't sure if we were having hydrolic problems or if the Battery was playing a role in the problem. Well after getting to our next destination we found out that it was the battery. You have to have the Battery. It seems odd that the hydrolics don't work strictly off the shore power, unless it is wired wrong? We are not electricians. Has anyone else ever have this experience?

Janice

sigo'suite
03-11-2008, 02:54 PM
Yep, you gotta have batteries supplying better than 10.8 volts or you will have the problem you described. First time it happened to me, I called dealership and talked to tech and that is what I was told. I still have original batteries which I have let get low on water occasionally and thus occasionally I have the problem.
At some point I am sure I will have to change batteries; in fact I have a friend whose coach is only slightly older than mine and he has already changed batteries. (6volt same as mine)
Feel like, probably, new batteries are lurking just over the horizon.

Motor31
03-12-2008, 08:31 AM
Because the converter seems to overcharge the batteries a bit I have started using the disconnect button when we are in a park with power. I'll leave the batteries off line for a week then online a day and back off line. The day before we head out I'll reset the switch to charge them to top them off. I also leave shore power connected when using the hydraulic system.

The converter seems to boil them more than I like so I'll let them sit. So far I have had them for almost 3 years and they are still showing 13+ volts when disconnected from the converter.

Here is something to check if the hydraulics seem weak. Look at the cable connections to the hydraulic buss. There should be heavy duty electical cables going to a black assembly that has 3 large connections. Check to see that the wires are tight and that the studs they are clamped to are also tight in the assembly. You may have to tighten the studs and set nuts to do that. If any of those cables feel hot in use there is a weak connection there.

billr
03-12-2008, 10:08 PM
Put one of these guys in "Charge Wizard"

http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/charge_wizard.html

and it will monitor and float the batteries when they are charged and avoids overcharging. I put one in 2 yrs ago and have yet to need to add water. Stays full. Easy to install, plug into the converter and thats it. Cheap too. Check CW.

Cheers,
Bill

bstark
03-13-2008, 10:35 PM
Billr above suggested one of those to me a year ago and what a difference! I was adding water at least once a month during our 5 month stays in Yuma and now I haven't added any for at least 5 months of sitting hooked to shore power.

A simple install with the socket already existing on the back of the convertor to plug the Wizard into. This is one of those items that, for it's cost and what it achieves, is indispensable!

golf_bears
03-14-2008, 08:19 AM
Billr,

Does the charge wizard work with any converter? We have our MS 36TK3 in production right now so not sure which converter has been installed.

Thanks for the informaton.

igotjam
03-14-2008, 08:28 AM
Motor31......
I'm not real electrical savy but with the battery switch in, what happens if the park power fails? With the switch in the propane will not ignite in the fridge?? Furnace won't run? I'd like to handle it like you suggest but am concerned about consequences of pushing the switch in. Am I incorrect about how the DSI in the fridge & furnace works? Maybe the parks you are in have more reliable power than the ones I've been at.
Thanx

billr
03-14-2008, 10:02 PM
The older units (like ours) had the PD9100 converters that accept the Charge wizard add on. Newer units may have a PD9200 converter and they have the Charge Wizard built in, they don't need any add on.

Check what DT is putting in now. Or when you get your trailer look at what installed.

They do make a plug in monitor for the PD9200 units so you can see what its doing.

Cheers,
Bill

Motor31
03-15-2008, 10:07 AM
Motor31......
I'm not real electrical savy but with the battery switch in, what happens if the park power fails? With the switch in the propane will not ignite in the fridge?? Furnace won't run? I'd like to handle it like you suggest but am concerned about consequences of pushing the switch in. Am I incorrect about how the DSI in the fridge & furnace works? Maybe the parks you are in have more reliable power than the ones I've been at.
Thanx

If your shore power is "iffy" and it goes out, you'll lose all 12 volt systems other than the hydraulics. On my rig that seems to be direct to the battery. I haven't had much problems at all with shore power. Since we fulltime we are with the rig almost all of the time. If it's stormy or likely to storm I go out and pull the switch back out to re engage the battery just in case. Since we've been here in Southern Louisiana that has happened a couple times. We haven't lost power yet but I didn't want to go out in the rain just to throw a switch if it did.

In a case of shaky shore power I'd just push in the switch during times I was in the rig and leave the battery connected when away. That charge wizard noted above would alleviate the situation though and I'm thinking we'll get one later this month.