Leveling

[DebDav]

I have a 2007 36SB3

When leveling I drive on plastic blocks to level side to side.

Then I extend the rear jacks. The driver's side jack extends first and makes contact then the passenger side extends. When the second jack makes contact, the second jack continues to extend causing the RV to tilt towards the drivers side. This negates the side to side leveling. If I stop the extension when the second jack makes contact, the RV rocks as the jacks are not stable.

Is there a way to adjust the drivers side jack to not lose fluid or to lock in position?

Thanks, David

[Motor31]

Both jacks are supposed to travel to a point after making contact with the ground. If only one is moving after contact with the ground it sounds like you have a problem in a seal losing pressure in the one side jack. If that's the case you'll need to get it rebuilt or replaced.

[DebDav]

Thanks, I will look at that next time.

[rverdlm]

Maybe I've missed something, but the rear jacks (stabilizer jacks) should not be extended until the trailer is leveled side to side and front to back. If you do as you said and put the rear jacks down before the front ones you can easily over load them with the front jacks as they are much stronger. That may be what boroke the seal.

[jdwilson3]

I've got to concur with rverdlm.

[DebDav]

I have not had any one tell me how to level and stabilize.

I guess that I have caused the problem as I always extend the rear first after side to side. Then I lift the pin off the truck and level front to back.

Is the above the correct way to level, stabilize?

Thanks, David

[DebDav]

Duplicate

[RonS]

David - This is now I level. First side to side runing up the low side of trailer on boards, then use something on wheels so trailer does not roll. Then raise up the front of trailer and unhook the truck. After truck is clear level the trailer from front to back, with the front landing gear, I put the pin in the 5th hole from the bottom both sides. Then the rear stabilizer, just enough to stabilize, dont try to lift the trailer. Then run out the slides with the bed room slide last.

[Hobo]

David - This is now I level. First side to side runing up the low side of trailer on boards, then use something on wheels so trailer does not roll. Then raise up the front of trailer and unhook the truck. After truck is clear level the trailer from front to back, with the front landing gear, I put the pin in the 5th hole from the bottom both sides. Then the rear stabilizer, just enough to stabilize, dont try to lift the trailer. Then run out the slides with the bed room slide last.

That would be the correct sequence.

level side to side and chock tire

Lift off truck and level front to back

put down rear stabilizers

extend slides

Reverse order to hitch back up

[DebDav]

Thanks all

[sigo'suite]

Agree with above, only difference is that I put the front a little high because when the rear stabilizers are extended it will raise the rear a little; and I like to leave the rear of the coach lower so as to try to force the air conditioner condensate to drain off the rear of the trailer.

[bstark]

Here's something else to consider, the travel stroke length of the rear cylinders is very short in comparison to the fronts and if the drivers side rear stabilizer has reached (or close to) the end of it's travel, the only option for the hydraulic pressure created by the running pump is to continue sending down the other leg. I suggest you have a couple of thick blocks made for the rear legs and always use them as those rear legs will not compensate for your rigs wheels being up on blocks.

This problem will be exacerbated if your rig has been raised on it's supension to give truck bed clearance as well.

[Mikey]

We level as above - side-to-side, then front landing gear down
Detach from truck
Level front-to-back using front gear
Snug rear jacks last
Extend slides

I raise the back jacks BEFORE I restract slides
When I retract rear gear, then slides, I heard some rather loaud creaks from slides as I retracted the rear gear.
I'm guessing - frame flex, so now I raise the rear gear, then slides
No more "creaks"

[rverdlm]

You're exactly right, Bruce. I had my trailer height raised at the factory to better fit the HDT. They then lowered the stab jacks to compensate. I still occasionally need blocks if I'm on a site where the back of the site slopes away. I always know immediately because the trailer will start to tilt when I lower the stab jacks.

[berghild]

this is where BIG FOOT levelers are the best investment we have ever made!

[john]

I tried to put "BIG FOOT" levels on my 2006 Mobile Suite but the company refused because of the frame on my unit.

[berghild]

they are awesome