Hitch Clearance

[bjogan]

We are picking up our new 2020 MS 36RKSB in a couple of weeks. I've seen some chatter about clearance issues with the newer trucks. LCI has complained that the 2020 model trucks have changed their bed depths? I saw a video about this with an F450 and a Full House; however, I believe it was more a plug for GEN-Y than a real issue.

Anyone run into issues with a new truck and clearances?

2020 GMC 3500 DRW Denali
Mobile Suites 2020 36RKSB with MoRyde Pin Box
BW Champion OEM Hitch

Thank you

[TheJeep]

When we bought our 5th wheel 6 months ago and I was worried about this. We have a 2020 DRV 41 RKSB4. It has 2" risers installed on the 5th wheel. Our truck is a 2020 F450 and we use a B&W Companion Hitch (Ford puck system). So far we have not had a problem. The rear of the pinbox does come very close to the top of the bed rail on very tight turns. When I say tight turns I mean outside of normal driving. I can get my truck to almost 90 deg before it gets to close for comfort.

I saw the video you were talking about and he had a bed cover on his bed that added to the problem.

[bjogan]

When we bought our 5th wheel 6 months ago and I was worried about this. We have a 2020 DRV 41 RKSB4. It has 2" risers installed on the 5th wheel. Our truck is a 2020 F450 and we use a B&W Companion Hitch (Ford puck system). So far we have not had a problem. The rear of the pinbox does come very close to the top of the bed rail on very tight turns. When I say tight turns I mean outside of normal driving. I can get my truck to almost 90 deg before it gets to close for comfort.

I saw the video you were talking about and he had a bed cover on his bed that added to the problem.

I too have a bed cover - we'll see how that goes. Since your F450 is a 2020 then I'm assuming your hitch height is 19" same as mine? I'm not sure what the rail height is on the F450. Mine is a little over 21".

2" Risers? Do you mean you have a lift kit on the axles?

Bryon

[TheJeep]

I too have a bed cover - we'll see how that goes. Since your F450 is a 2020 then I'm assuming your hitch height is 19" same as mine? I'm not sure what the rail height is on the F450. Mine is a little over 21".

2" Risers? Do you mean you have a lift kit on the axles?

Bryon

When my 5th wheel was built a metal tube was added between the suspension and frame to give it a 2" increase in height. If I remember right my bed inside height was 20 and 1/2 inches and 63 inches from left to right. The hitch height is approx 18 to 19 inches. When hookedup to the trailer I have 6 1/2" of clearance from the bedrail to the 5th wheel.

I talked to as many people as I could about this before buying ours and never got a 100% answer. There are just to many variables between trailers and trucks. Unfortunately you really won't know until you hookup to your 5th wheel if you have a clearance problem.

[porthole]

Since your F450 is a 2020



The 2020 F-450 is slightly lowered in the rear so not as a good comparison as prior years. But it is still close even without any type of bed cover rails.

[Roam America]

My rig has 2” risers. Wish it had 3”. I have my 6” of clearance but tight turns on uneven terrain it has rubbed the side rail. No clue why truck manufacturers did that, other than to cause indigestion for owners.

[porthole]

My rig has 2” risers. Wish it had 3”. I have my 6” of clearance but tight turns on uneven terrain it has rubbed the side rail. No clue why truck manufacturers did that, other than to cause indigestion for owners.

Unfortunately, the pickups are not made for the average RV'er, made for the work crowd that want/need the bed capacity.

My new truck is a bit lower, but the uneven terrain thing is still an issue.

3" would be better. I ordered ours before the 2" riser was standard, $200 option at the time. And DRV would not allow the order to be 3".

If you don't know it, you can lower the IS shear springs 1", pushing the trailer up 1".

The bolt holes are already in the mounting plate.

[Cummins12V98]

My rig has 2” risers. Wish it had 3”. I have my 6” of clearance but tight turns on uneven terrain it has rubbed the side rail. No clue why truck manufacturers did that, other than to cause indigestion for owners.

Reality is if you raised the RV 1" at the wheels the gap at the bed will only increase around 1/8". Raise hitch or lower pinbox.

[Notanlines]

Cummins, "will only increase around 1/8"' try to tell the average RV'er what you said, or that 1000# of bike in the garage only takes about 100# off the pin....I have tried both until I'm blue in the face.

[Cummins12V98]

Cummins, "will only increase around 1/8"' try to tell the average RV'er what you said, or that 1000# of bike in the garage only takes about 100# off the pin....I have tried both until I'm blue in the face.

You made me laugh!!!

[DRVELITE]

I have a 2020 Ram 3500 and a 2018 DRV Elite Suite 39DRBS3 and I had clearance issues and also purchased the GenY Hitch.

[ford truck guy11]

my 2020 Ford is 2" lower in the rear than my 2015 was..

[Cummins12V98]

I have a 2020 Ram 3500 and a 2018 DRV Elite Suite 39DRBS3 and I had clearance issues and also purchased the GenY Hitch.

Curious what clearance issues and with what equipment?

[bjogan]

Finally picked up the 36RKSB in the freezing rain in AR - headed southeast as fast as I could! Just terrible weather for many.

Turned out I had plenty of clearance to the bed rails. That said, I did find one problem and that is with the "wings" on the MORryde pin box. The flange on the outside plate "wing" caught my cargo cover rail on a very sharp turn. Fortunately it also pulled the breakaway cable so I ended up with very little damage to the cargo cover rail.

I called MORryde to discuss and told me that some have been cutting off the flange. they also did not recommend or suggest this, they were just acknowledging that it is a problem for some. I was not keen on this as the flange does provide some stiffness to the "wing." However, I did cut off the trailing corner of the flange on a 45 degree angle. This should eliminate the flange getting under the rail and still leave plenty of stiffness in the wing.

I plan to stop in at MORryde this summer to review further. It just seems that they should build in a bit more flexibility into these systems. For example, I was going to raise the pin box one hole, but the hole pattern in the wing would have prevented me from using the required three bolts in the front column of bolt holes.

[porthole]

Finally picked up the 36RKSB in the freezing rain in AR - headed southeast as fast as I could! Just terrible weather for many.

Turned out I had plenty of clearance to the bed rails. That said, I did find one problem and that is with the "wings" on the MORryde pin box. The flange on the outside plate "wing" caught my cargo cover rail on a very sharp turn. Fortunately it also pulled the breakaway cable so I ended up with very little damage to the cargo cover rail.

I called MORryde to discuss and told me that some have been cutting off the flange. they also did not recommend or suggest this, they were just acknowledging that it is a problem for some. I was not keen on this as the flange does provide some stiffness to the "wing." However, I did cut off the trailing corner of the flange on a 45 degree angle. This should eliminate the flange getting under the rail and still leave plenty of stiffness in the wing.

I plan to stop in at MORryde this summer to review further. It just seems that they should build in a bit more flexibility into these systems. For example, I was going to raise the pin box one hole, but the hole pattern in the wing would have prevented me from using the required three bolts in the front column of bolt holes.

It is not the MOR/ryde pinbox causing the issue, it is the DRV designed Lippert frame.

MOR/ryde does make a shorter version of the pinbox, but then you can't drop your tailgate

[porthole]

For example, I was going to raise the pin box one hole, but the hole pattern in the wing would have prevented me from using the required three bolts in the front column of bolt holes.



Something to consider if you plan on lowering the pinbox.

Those "plates" you see are not part of the frame, they are a seperate piece of steel, a stiffener for the part "plate' welded to the frame.

The plates have holes spaced at 2", the frame behind it has holes spaced at 1", so twice as many. If you lower the pinbox 1 hole (inside plate) the outer plate has to go down two holes, making more of a problem. Lower the pinbox 2 holes and the plate will line up be be in the same relative position.

You'll gain bed rail vertical clearance but do nothing for the horizontal clearance.

No matter where you set the pinbox, the corners of those plates will be a problem.

Also note if you decide to remove your pin box (and something you might want to address anyway).

DRV may or may not have used grade 8 hardware for the pin box. The do use conventional spring type lock washers. There is a very good chance if you look up under your pinbax, one or more of the lock washers will have failed. Even if they have not failed by looks, if you remove the bolts you really need to consider replacing them. They are the wrong type anyway. That application should have conical lock washers. Most common place I have found those is on eTrailer, supplied by Reese.


There are now a couple of DRV'ers trying the Gen-Y pinboxes, two styles one is a goose ball style the other a conventional 5th wheel pin.

They looked promising as they are about 2" or so shorter from the pin to the 1st row of bolt holes. Although first reports coming out are not very promising, at least one person still has a side rail issue on turns (I think he has the 5th wheel pin style) .

Haven't heard yet from the guy with a 2020 450, DRV toy hauler and the Gen-Y goose neck. There are a couple people using the Reese or Anderson type goose balls and there are few that have an issue with not being able to jack high enough without using blocks under the jacks to get off the ball. First unloading the springs then raising another 4" to clear the ball can be challenging.

[bjogan]

Something to consider if you plan on lowering the pinbox.

Those "plates" you see are not part of the frame, they are a seperate piece of steel, a stiffener for the part "plate' welded to the frame.

The plates have holes spaced at 2", the frame behind it has holes spaced at 1", so twice as many. If you lower the pinbox 1 hole (inside plate) the outer plate has to go down two holes, making more of a problem. Lower the pinbox 2 holes and the plate will line up be be in the same relative position.

You'll gain bed rail vertical clearance but do nothing for the horizontal clearance.

No matter where you set the pinbox, the corners of those plates will be a problem.

Also note if you decide to remove your pin box (and something you might want to address anyway).

DRV may or may not have used grade 8 hardware for the pin box. The do use conventional spring type lock washers. There is a very good chance if you look up under your pinbax, one or more of the lock washers will have failed. Even if they have not failed by looks, if you remove the bolts you really need to consider replacing them. They are the wrong type anyway. That application should have conical lock washers. Most common place I have found those is on eTrailer, supplied by Reese.


There are now a couple of DRV'ers trying the Gen-Y pinboxes, two styles one is a goose ball style the other a conventional 5th wheel pin.

They looked promising as they are about 2" or so shorter from the pin to the 1st row of bolt holes. Although first reports coming out are not very promising, at least one person still has a side rail issue on turns (I think he has the 5th wheel pin style) .

Haven't heard yet from the guy with a 2020 450, DRV toy hauler and the Gen-Y goose neck. There are a couple people using the Reese or Anderson type goose balls and there are few that have an issue with not being able to jack high enough without using blocks under the jacks to get off the ball. First unloading the springs then raising another 4" to clear the ball can be challenging.

Thanks Duane,

They did use grade 8 bolts.

You are correct about the holes and the plate. Tried several variations and all no good.

I have seen the video on the Gen-Y. Nice set-up and may end up being the best answer.

Where I am now works other than I’d like to be closer to level (nose high). I’m thinking a modified plate may do the trick.

Bryon

[porthole]

Thanks Duane,

They did use grade 8 bolts.

You are correct about the holes and the plate. Tried several variations and all no good.

I have seen the video on the Gen-Y. Nice set-up and may end up being the best answer.

Where I am now works other than I’d like to be closer to level (nose high). I’m thinking a modified plate may do the trick.

Bryon

You can lower the shear springs on the IS, holes already there. That will gain you an inch at the axles, closer to level but won't help bed rail clearance much.

[bjogan]

It is not the MOR/ryde pinbox causing the issue, it is the DRV designed Lippert frame.

MOR/ryde does make a shorter version of the pinbox, but then you can't drop your tailgate

Very true but the only things I can adjust are the pin box height and the pivot arm (hitch) height.

If MORryde would make a plate with a different hole pattern I could likely solve my problem. We'll see.

[porthole]

If MORryde would make a plate with a different hole pattern I could likely solve my problem. We'll see.



Not sure what you mean by different hole pattern (it is an industry standard of the Lippert 1621 pin box), but MOR/ryde does make a shorter pin box

[nytmare]

...I called MORryde to discuss and told me that some have been cutting off the flange. they also did not recommend or suggest this, they were just acknowledging that it is a problem for some. I was not keen on this as the flange does provide some stiffness to the "wing." However, I did cut off the trailing corner of the flange on a 45 degree angle. This should eliminate the flange getting under the rail and still leave plenty of stiffness in the wing.

What procedure and tools did you use to cut off the trailing corner?

I have the same problem. My equipment is: '19 Ram 3500 Limited Dually (w/ B&W Companion (puck system) and a Tonneau-Pro hard tri-fold cover) and '19 40KSSB4 (w/ 2" risers and MoRyde pinbox).

I've run into a couple back-in situations where I was cranked hard to the driver's side. As a result, my driver's side bedrail has a gouge completely through the plastic, but not the metal, fortunately. I'm looking to do the same as you. Thanks.

[porthole]

What procedure and tools did you use to cut off the trailing corner?

I have the same problem. My equipment is: '19 Ram 3500 Limited Dually (w/ B&W Companion (puck system) and a Tonneau-Pro hard tri-fold cover) and '19 40KSSB4 (w/ 2" risers and MoRyde pinbox).

I've run into a couple back-in situations where I was cranked hard to the driver's side. As a result, my driver's side bedrail has a gouge completely through the plastic, but not the metal, fortunately. I'm looking to do the same as you. Thanks.

Portable bandsaw aka 'portaband' works great

[nytmare]

Portable bandsaw aka 'portaband' works great

Gotcha. I see that you cut at a 45 degree angle, but how many inches up and out did you got to lop of the corner? Many thanks.

[porthole]

Gotcha. I see that you cut at a 45 degree angle, but how many inches up and out did you got to lop of the corner? Many thanks.

You see the picture on facebunk?

I kinda "winged it"

And I am considering taking off more. Still too close for comfort, especially if the ground is uneven on tight back ins and the trailer starts rocking. CG's in the northeast tend to be on the smaller side.

[nytmare]

You see the picture on facebunk?

I kinda "winged it"

And I am considering taking off more. Still too close for comfort, especially if the ground is uneven on tight back ins and the trailer starts rocking. CG's in the northeast tend to be on the smaller side.

I've seen a pic or two on FB, but not sure it was yours. Are you on the DOG page?

Oddly enough... my biggest problem is backing into my driveway. It's a 90 degree turn on barely a lane and a half gravel road. Very tight turn and ditches on each side of the road, not to mention that I have to cross over a culvert/creek about 15 feet after getting onto the driveway. My poor wife hates helping back in.

[porthole]

I've seen a pic or two on FB, but not sure it was yours. Are you on the DOG page?

Oddly enough... my biggest problem is backing into my driveway. It's a 90 degree turn on barely a lane and a half gravel road. Very tight turn and ditches on each side of the road, not to mention that I have to cross over a culvert/creek about 15 feet after getting onto the driveway. My poor wife hates helping back in.

Both my prior and current driveway were/are a pain.

Last house I was on a cul-de-sac. 50' wide street and the end was big enough to easily do a U turn. We were at the end so I was able to pull in front, turn right and back straight in to the driveway.
But, the crown, lack of the top coat and and a steep driveway required a combination of boards to clear the rear hitch.
And before I backed I dumped all the air on the truck suspension and the TS-3 hitch to gain max clearance at the hitch.
Multiple 2x10's forming ramps 14' long and as high as 4 boards.

Current house, the street is only 18' wide, the crown is almost a foot on either side, swales on each side, my driveway drops off another foot right away and I have two stone columns to thread between, coming in at a 45 degree angle. My neighbors enjoy the show.

I was not able to get the trailer in the driveway when we closed on the house. I had to remove the tool box from the truck. Then it would only take about 20-25 minutes. I've since moved one stone column and can back in easily but I now put 100 psi in the hitch bags to gain as much clearance as I can for the side rails.

Someday the county is going to finish the road (issues with developer) and when they do the road will be 3' wider and level, which will exacerbate the driveway. The County has assured me my driveway will be corrected when the road is done. They are also going to allow me to have a 24' wide entrance instead of the allowed 12'. Fortunately the chief guy at the County DOT is a camper, he came to the house to see the issues.

[wingnut60]

You may not feel comfortable doing this, but worked well for me--I cut the entire flange off both side plates and the trailing edge even with the hitch itself. The side plates are there to spread the holding strength of the bolts. I was told by 2 certified welders that the bolts themselves are plenty to support the weight even without the side plates. Had a 38RSSA and '17 450 with a Retrax cover. After the cuts, did not have any more hits but really had to go slow if backing sharply and off-level. Had done the same thing with an '05 36TK3 and after many miles of towing, the plate/hitch never moved, nor did the '15 RSSA.
Used sawzall to cut and angle grinder to smooth out the sharp edges.

[nytmare]

Both my prior and current driveway were/are a pain.

Last house I was on a cul-de-sac. 50' wide street and the end was big enough to easily do a U turn. We were at the end so I was able to pull in front, turn right and back straight in to the driveway.
But, the crown, lack of the top coat and and a steep driveway required a combination of boards to clear the rear hitch.
And before I backed I dumped all the air on the truck suspension and the TS-3 hitch to gain max clearance at the hitch.
Multiple 2x10's forming ramps 14' long and as high as 4 boards.

Current house, the street is only 18' wide, the crown is almost a foot on either side, swales on each side, my driveway drops off another foot right away and I have two stone columns to thread between, coming in at a 45 degree angle. My neighbors enjoy the show.

I was not able to get the trailer in the driveway when we closed on the house. I had to remove the tool box from the truck. Then it would only take about 20-25 minutes. I've since moved one stone column and can back in easily but I now put 100 psi in the hitch bags to gain as much clearance as I can for the side rails.

Someday the county is going to finish the road (issues with developer) and when they do the road will be 3' wider and level, which will exacerbate the driveway. The County has assured me my driveway will be corrected when the road is done. They are also going to allow me to have a 24' wide entrance instead of the allowed 12'. Fortunately the chief guy at the County DOT is a camper, he came to the house to see the issues.

Well... I fortunately don't have those problems. Just need to stop digging the bedrails. Would like to get a nicer hard tonneau cover, but the rails those things use would get destroyed in short order.

[nytmare]

You may not feel comfortable doing this, but worked well for me--I cut the entire flange off both side plates and the trailing edge even with the hitch itself. The side plates are there to spread the holding strength of the bolts. I was told by 2 certified welders that the bolts themselves are plenty to support the weight even without the side plates. Had a 38RSSA and '17 450 with a Retrax cover. After the cuts, did not have any more hits but really had to go slow if backing sharply and off-level. Had done the same thing with an '05 36TK3 and after many miles of towing, the plate/hitch never moved, nor did the '15 RSSA.
Used sawzall to cut and angle grinder to smooth out the sharp edges.

Thanks for the info wingnut. I'll have to see if I have a friend with a sawzall. I already checked an no one has a portable bandsaw.

[porthole]

Thanks for the info wingnut. I'll have to see if I have a friend with a sawzall. I already checked an no one has a portable bandsaw.

Home Depot Rental.
Or, harbor freight, look for sales. The Bauer band saw goes for $130.
When I bought mine it was around $120, on sale for $70 or $80 and I had a coupon which dropped it even further. I think I paid 50 or 60. Figured the quality is OK for one time use.
Got the job done and I've used it many times since.


Well... I fortunately don't have those problems. Just need to stop digging the bedrails. Would like to get a nicer hard tonneau cover, but the rails those things use would get destroyed in short order.

My TruckcoversUSA rails had some dings and dents.
I just straightened best I could and Rustoleum satin black to touch up. After the first ding it doesn't hurt as much.

[Cummins12V98]

Right Angle grinder with a thin metal cutting disk, EZ-PZ.