Anderson Blocks

[clev]

Last week, I noticed the bottom rim on the passenger side front had broken off. I contacted Anderson and they agreed to replace it. Yesterday, I noticed the driver’s side was bulging and collapsing. Fortunately, I caught this before it completely collapsed, and dumped the front of the five.

[Cummins12V98]

I have said this many times before ANDERSEN products when pushed to their upper design limits simply don't hold up!

This is what you need! These blocks are VERY strong. First pic tires are off the ground with rV hooked to truck. that means the blocks are supporting a bit over 17,000#. RV is much more stable using my blocks I designed and made.

https://i.imgur.com/hNOqWDFl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uVJK3Vkl.jpg

[wingnut60]

Clev,
Using the same Andersens----ALWAYS place a flat surface (I use AlturnaMats) under the blocks on any surface. Mine are holding up well to the 4600lb pin wt on my Suites. If you place them on gravel, the circular edge is going to sink at different rates, thus placing load on them other than vertical.
I think they are somewhat misleading in their marketing as, in my mind, no thin-edged block is going to NOT sink in an unconsolidated soil/gravel bed. Rightfully, they are replacing them, but it will happen again if you place them directly on gravel.
Or, go to Cummins-type monster wood blocks...

[wingnut60]

Ron,
Each block is rated at 6k--doubt that the legs of clev's fiver are carrying anywhere near that much. 5K pin = 2500/jack, nowhere near the design limits. It is the surface they are placed on causing the problem. In your trailer pic, 4 jacks supporting 17k = about 4200/jack--that is about 70% of rated capacity of each block. I would not hesitate to use them on all my jacks if I wanted to pay the cost, but each would be on some type of flat surface between block/ground.
Another of the negatives so far with the blocks is having to center the jack pad in the block--not easy to do before putting a load on them. I have found the magnets too weak to hold the block to the pad when lowering the jack, thus in the auto-level mode, can't get them centered on any but the front jacks before starting the auto process.
But your blocks are certainly first-class....

[Cummins12V98]

"But your blocks are certainly first-class...."

Thanks! The rears are only 10x10x8" high and fronts 10x16x10" high. Made the fronts longer incase RV wants to move a bit when unhitching. Height is to reduce length the rams extend.

IMHO the ANDERSEN needs to have a solid bottom! Mine work on all conditions as ANDERSEN's should.

NOT a fan of their hitch ratings either. Look at their video with all the pressure going straight down. What about fore and aft like in the real world.

[clev]

I contacted Anderson and they’ve had an upgrade on their materials to make them stronger. They had no explanation as to why mine broke apart. They are replacing all 6 with the newer, stronger material.

[Cummins12V98]

I contacted Anderson and they’ve had an upgrade on their materials to make them stronger. They had no explanation as to why mine broke apart. They are replacing all 6 with the newer, stronger material.

Same thing with their Aluminum Ultimate hitch. They re engineered it after having them fold with hard braking.

There plastic leveler yin/yang blocks are known to break.

[porthole]

I contacted Anderson and they’ve had an upgrade on their materials to make them stronger. They had no explanation as to why mine broke apart. They are replacing all 6 with the newer, stronger material.

Simple answer.

Compare the load per square inch with a 12x12 block versus the Anderson 1” wide base times whatever the diameter is. I’m not surprised at the failure.

I would consider the Anderson product for the rear jacks but not until they make them in black

[wingnut60]

This is first failure I've heard of, has anyone noticed others on other forums?

[porthole]

This is first failure I've heard of, has anyone noticed others on other forums?

First I’ve seen, but Terry did mention the replacements were an “upgraded material” and that wasn’t done because they had a desire to decrease their profit margin.

This reminds me, I contacted Anderson twice asking about a color change - no replies.

[wingnut60]

There is always paint....

[RVStrayKatz]

I know a couple folks that have these Anderson buckets and all of them have had to replace them multiple times due to cracking. Garbage in my view.

[wingnut60]

Guess I'm waiting for mine to fail--6 months with many setups with 4600pin weight. 2300 lbs on 6000 blocks--if they can't handle this, then they are junk.

[RVStrayKatz]

I wish you all the best with them. I had looked at them for my coach, Elite Suites RESB3, but decided to stick with my home made blocks after seeing so many of them fail. Hopefully Anderson has improved the materials used.

[DRVELITE]

Well darn I hate to hear they aren't holding up I just got my 2018 DRV 39DBRS3 Elite and my girl bought me six of these Anderson Blocks. I think they are sweet but I hope they last now that I have read this.....

[Cummins12V98]

Well darn I hate to hear they aren't holding up I just got my 2018 DRV 39DBRS3 Elite and my girl bought me six of these Anderson Blocks. I think they are sweet but I hope they last now that I have read this.....

Personally I would politely suggest returning them and making yourself blocks similar to mine for at least 1/2 the price.

[clev]

I've used Anderson Blocks for many years and never had a problem, until now. I believe that sitting on gravel/dirt for almost 5 months without moving, caused them to sink, and exert pressure unevenly around the base, resulting in the cracking. I've received a complete set of 6, manufactured with the newer construction material and I will be careful with setup. I went to a local metal shop and had 1/16 inch metal disks cut 2 inches wider in diameter than the base of the block. When I set up in anything other than hard surface, I will use the metal disks for the blocks to rest on.

[wingnut60]

clev,
How do you get them under the 4 rear jacks? The magnets don't hold well enough to go thru the auto-level process. I only use 2, but sometimes need them under the rear rather than the front, and can't get them to hold to the metal pads.
And, yes, putting a hard surface under the blocks will prevent sinking, and uneven loading.
Joe

[clev]

Hi Joe. I've never had a problem with the magnets not holding. I don't normally need the blocks on the sides either, just on the front. I do carry 4, just in case a side does need a one. I had 4 disks cut. Also, the magnets appear stronger on these new blocks.

[clev]

Joe, can you take a look at the thread where you had work done on your rams, and post advice/recommendations on my post?

[wingnut60]

clev,
My jack work was on the fronts, not the sides. Will look around for something on the sides, if I can find it. I was just mentioning taking the sides off is much more straightforward than the fronts.
Joe

[clev]

Thanks, Joe.

[Cummins12V98]

The fronts take a pit to lower them down into. My Machinist friend and I just removed my fronts and two rears. He said the rears have VERY high quality seals. My two rears leaked slightly where the Glan screws to the bottom of the ram. Replacing a seal took care of the issue.

The fronts have POS seals. My friend used much better quality seals. All the rams on the outside return tube wear against the outer sleeve that you see on the fronts. He has came up with a way to eliminate that big problem and the fix adds much more lateral stability to the front rams. This is something Roberts doesn't do. If your outer return tube is worn thin he will charge you $200 for a replacement outer ram cylinder. So basically by installing the new $200 ram the same thing WILL happen again. He does NOT address the issue.

My friend also does as Roberts does and cuts off the nut on the foot pad adapter and re weld a nut back on centered and aligned. Lippert's PIZZ poor quality makes every foot pad adapter crooked and this causes flex in the long thin shaft.

Anyone in NW WA area wanting their jacks rebuilt send me a PM. He has 50A and water.

[clev]

Thank you, Cummins. Using a stop leak additive was recommended. I’ll try that as a temporary fix an d then have it rebuilt at a local shop. I’ll print out your post for the shop to review.

[Cummins12V98]

This wear issue needs to be addressed.

https://i.imgur.com/wRoSG6bl.jpg

[clev]

Stop Leak seems to be working. I haven't seen any residue on the jack plate.