Leaking Front Jacks

[Titanic 2]

Have a 2016 Dallas , it has the common MS problem of the front jacks not holding for any consistent period of time . My options to solve this are
1. Lippert "says" they will cover the cost of replacing the jacks with a newer style.
2. If the newer style won't fit without trailer modification , Lippert will remove old jacks then I will have to take them to a local hydraulic shop to have them rebuilt then Lippert will reinstall them. Total est. cost $500
3. Take my unit to Bob's Quality RVs and have him fix the problem, Min. cost $1200
Would appreciate comments from anyone who had the Lippert fix, I understand the newer style jacks have a shorter reach and are they the ones that creak and moan ?
If you have had your unit fixed , which repair did you choose ???

[golf_bears]

I had a leaking left front jack. Took it to Lippert for replacement, no charge. All is well now, no leaking and no down drift. Just go to Lippert and have them fix you up. They do a good job.

[Dapperdan]

Call Lippert @ 574-537-8900, describe your situation and have your VIN info ready. You should be able to get a case file number and they will schedule service work for you. Ours was done a couple of years ago under warranty!

Hope this helps.

Dan

[Cummins12V98]

I am simply having my Machinist friend rebuild mine this Summer along with the 4 rears with QUALITY parts.

[orca]

I had the same problem with my 2015 Fullhouse. My local RV repair did all they could with advice from lippert, including replacing the pump on my nickle! When all of their suggestions failed to stop the leakdown they sent replacement legs. Turned out that these new legs needed major modification,including welding in new mounts. My tech guy did not want to attempt the job so i arranged to have them done at the Lippert repair facility. There they did the job quickly and professionly.
The only thing that still bothers me is they would not take back the $900 pump even though it was their bad advice to try changing the pump even though the failing legs is a common and continuing problem!

[stanleyz]

Had mine rebuilt at local hydraulics shop. Think it was 125 bucks each but might have been a bit more. Removing and reinstalling them is the hard work. I have a man hole in front of my yard and was able to use that to drop them. It was a lot of work and I don't think I would do it again.

[porthole]

My front jacks don’t leak down like what some of you experience but we figured out at the rally that the front jacks are angled towards the rear a bit.

No wonder our trailer shakes so much.

I have a Lippert appointment now, although not next week after the rally - August 1st.


Another 1500 miles of water travel.

[wingnut60]

Had the front jacks replaced on our '15 RSSA at Lippert--2 days, they work fine, no creaks/groans. If jack travel is less, I haven't noticed, but they are a bit slower to work up/down. It was a good decision to travel to Elkhart for the work.

[porthole]

Had the front jacks replaced on our '15 RSSA at Lippert--2 days, they work fine, no creaks/groans. If jack travel is less, I haven't noticed, but they are a bit slower to work up/down. It was a good decision to travel to Elkhart for the work.

And you didn’t come to the rally ???

[wingnut60]

Duane, not sure why you are asking?

[Dapperdan]

Joe, I think Duane is under the impression that you just had your jacks replaced. That happened a while ago right?

Dan

[porthole]

Duane, not sure why you are asking?

Read the post on the phone - mis read apparently. 2 days work, not 2 days ago.

[wingnut60]

Got it. Guess I could have said it better. Was there in Sept on way to Maine.

[LarryFlew]

Lippert has replaced fronts at one point. Later did a side leaker. Both in AZ. Then another when back in MN. This was a camping world AZ add on 6 point hydraulic level up. This was over a 3 year period. Great to deal with. Their roving mechanics are great. 3 different ones and all where very knowledgeable. Service rep was great also. Even gave me her cell number to keep in touch.

[Joezilla948]

We had the newer style jacks installed at Lippert last June 24th after having had total jack failure with the old jacks. We had a problem develop with the newer jack on one side after about 6 months. Our dealer cleared it with Lippert to replace last month just before the warranty ran out on the new ones. Now the jacks are, dare I say, perfect.

Joe

[wingnut60]

Joe,
Thinking you might update the signature trailer?
Joe

[Joezilla948]

Joe,
Thinking you might update the signature trailer?
Joe

Done, it finally allowed me to make the change.

Joe

[clev]

I just found this thread. I posted a separate one about a leaking ram. The ram in front of the passenger side front wheel has oil residue on the ground plate. On inspection, there is oil residue on the bottom of the ram, where the tube comes down. Not a lot, more of a seep and not a dripping leak. How do I fix that? Take it off, and take it where? I can repair almost anything, but am totally clueless with hydraulics.

[wingnut60]

clev,
The rear jacks are outside mounted, and should be able to be removed and taken to a hydraulic shop. Not sure what the status of the entire system should be while this is done--possibly hitch to truck to take all pressure off system. There are some posts about keeping the fluid from leaking out of the lines while disconnected. A call to LCI might help, or check on one of the DRV forums on FB for a reply from someone who has done the removal. Once off, any hydraulic shop ought to be able to fix the seals.
Joe

[clev]

Thanks Joe. I'll give Lippert a call tomorrow. So, any hydraulics shop can repair these? They don't have to be an RV specialty shop?

[wingnut60]

Roberts RV in IN that has fine recs on DRV jack repair, is a hydraulic shop. Hydraulic rams are mostly similar in operation/construction. Have seen many oilfield hydraulic failures repaired in shops you would not want your DRV near. I suppose there are different degrees of competency in these shops, but the basics of hydraulic rams are the same.

[clev]

I watched a You Tube video on removing/replacing a side stabilizer and it looks pretty easy. I’ve also located 3 hydraulics repair shops in the area. When I return from this trip, I’ll pull it and have it repaired. Hopefully, it won’t cause a problem on this short trip.

[porthole]

I watched a You Tube video on removing/replacing a side stabilizer and it looks pretty easy. I’ve also located 3 hydraulics repair shops in the area. When I return from this trip, I’ll pull it and have it repaired. Hopefully, it won’t cause a problem on this short trip.

I think the main concern with the Lippert jacks is the proprietary seals they use, not readily available.

The shop in Indy refits the assembly for readily available, higher quality seals. Problem solved.

[Cummins12V98]

My Machinist friend in WA just rebuilt my two front and two of the rears. The rears have QUALITY seals and he said they are vERY robust. Mine rears were leaking where the Glan screws onto the outer tube.

The fronts he went to a much better quality and type of seal as does Roberts.

It takes a pit to change out the fronts.

He also cuts off the foot pad adapter nut and welds on a new nut in alignment to the shaft. Lippert welds every one on crooked. Roberts does the same.

Roberts will replace the ram outer tube if the small return line is excessively worn at $200 ea. Problem is the wear will start all over again. My Machinist fried has came up with a way to keep the small tube from wearing against the inside of the silver outer tube you see. Another BIG improvement doing this upgrade the side to side stability is vastly improved!

[stanleyz]

I just found this thread. I posted a separate one about a leaking ram. The ram in front of the passenger side front wheel has oil residue on the ground plate. On inspection, there is oil residue on the bottom of the ram, where the tube comes down. Not a lot, more of a seep and not a dripping leak. How do I fix that? Take it off, and take it where? I can repair almost anything, but am totally clueless with hydraulics.

I did mine and I wouldn’t want to do it again. You need a hole to drop them in and it needs to be about two feet drop below the bottom of of the housing. Might be more. I should have posted that back when I did it. Bottom line is if all i had was a minor leak I would tighten all the lines on that side and ignore it until it got worse. It is a tough tough job.

[Dmcfarden]

I have a 2012 36 TKSB3 with a leaking front landing gear ram. I ordered and received a new hydraulic ram from Lippert for nearly $500. It looks like I might have enough room to replace from the inside of the basement area. Am I wrong and will I need a hole under the ram to replace it from the bottom side? I sure hope not.

[stanleyz]

I have a 2012 36 TKSB3 with a leaking front landing gear ram. I ordered and received a new hydraulic ram from Lippert for nearly $500. It looks like I might have enough room to replace from the inside of the basement area. Am I wrong and will I need a hole under the ram to replace it from the bottom side? I sure hope not.

I’m not sure what you got from lippert. If is the whole thing, the square housing and the round internal I guess you will need a welder to cut the old one off and weld the new one in. If you are just getting the internals you will still have to swap them out. I did mine (a 2005) by dropping them out the bottom. Then had the local hydraulic shop rebuild the internals. 125 bucks each. Dropping them out requires a hole deep enough for them to clear the housing. If you are on the truck the easy way is to take the top off a man hole. Pull it over and drop it out. Not a lot to it as I recall. Take the foot off, disconnect the lines and let re drop. Putting the new back in was a chore as I recall but I was 76 at the time and survived. The only other way I could see to do it was have a welder cut the whole leg out and replace the internals on a work bench. I took some pictures. I’ll see if I can find them and post you a couple. Hope this helps.

I just checked my picts. Nothing there of much help. But here is the procedure I used now that my memory is refreshed. Put trailer on truck. Passenger side is easier. Disconnect upper and lower hoses from leg housing. Put leg over hole where you can drop it. Remove the bolt at the top of the leg. It should come right out with a little wiggling. Drivers side is a little harder. You have to remove the red distribution box and the other hose. I had to cut my sheet metal open to get at everything on the drivers side. Then same as above. Also, once you have removed the hoses put some kind of stopper in it and do not push any hydraulic buttons. When you get everything back together run the jacks up and down enough times to get the air out. Then top off fluid.

Well darn it. I just realized Yours is a 2012. I think that has the round legs. Sorry man. I have no idea. I’ll leave this here in case someone with an antique like mine needs it. My bad.

[clev]

I should have followed up on my post; lots of things going on. I checked with Lippert and opted to try a cheap, simple fix by pouring a few ounces of Hydraulic Stop Leak into the hydraulic container. No more leak. Mine was an actual slow seep/leak with visible fluid on the ground plate from the middle, passenger side ram. I don't think the actual ram was collapsing. Almost a year later and still no leak.

[Dmcfarden]

Thanks Stanley for the detailed information. Yes mine are the round type of legs. Hopefully someone has done this on my types and will reply.

Clev. Mine was leaking a little more, maybe a couple oz per day when it was under pressure. You could hear it click, click every few minutes. I have a front stabilizer that is rated for 5k lbs under the pin so it does stop the leak, but I'm afraid I'll need to replace the ram.

[anijet]

I should have followed up on my post; lots of things going on. I checked with Lippert and opted to try a cheap, simple fix by pouring a few ounces of Hydraulic Stop Leak into the hydraulic container. No more leak. Mine was an actual slow seep/leak with visible fluid on the ground plate from the middle, passenger side ram. I don't think the actual ram was collapsing. Almost a year later and still no leak.


I did a similar repair on a rear stabilizer jack. It was leaking so I took it off and to a shop for reseal because I didn't have time to reseal. Pretty much leaked right away. A few months later I resealed it myself and it was OK but would still seeped intermittently. I retracted it, disconnected the upper hose and attached a short hose that I ran into a bottle of Lucus auto trans treatment and extended the ram manually to draw in half the fluid. Repeated for the lower chamber. Two years and not even a weep.


Any new leaks from hydraulic cylinders and I will try this again before a complete reseal (unless it's a complete blowout).

[6inarow]

Pay close attention to the fittings attached to the cylinder, there are o rings on them and they will leak causing fluid to collect in the pad appearing like a ram leak. Clean the cylinder outer housing real well and then check to see if its fluid running down the outside of the cyl.

[anijet]

Another good leak detection method is to clean the area really good. Wipe down with alcohol and blow dry. Then apply baby powder with one of those squeeze bottles and cycle the cylinder. When it leaks you will see exactly where the leak is from.