Black tank valve, as usual on a DRV

[wingnut60]

Have replaced the seals once, not a fun job and was not able to get it done right as it worked for maybe 6 months, then leaking again. Drain pipe is very tight trying to fit the valve/seals back in, this time going to cut the pipe downstream of the valve and use a Fernco rubber coupling to get me some space to put the valve back in.

Ron--I remember you replaced yours with a direct pull-handle, but not willing to go that route--yet. It is a Bristol make, not a Valterra, correct?

Thanks,
Joe

EDIT: Found your old post on Thor forum--it WAS a Valterra valve?

[Cummins12V98]

I swapped mine out with Valterra. I simply opened cargo door and open closed the valve by hand. Won't use another cable valve. Whole lot easier now to simply reach under!

https://i.imgur.com/a0OIMiVl.jpg

[wingnut60]

If this replacement doesn't work, will be considering your setup. But I do quite a bit of camping in cold weather, need to consider that.
Thanks.

[lseiger]

Wingnut60,

I lost your contact info. We met at Lockhart State Park in Texas last December.

I just wanted to let you know that our black tank valve was stuck in the open position last week and the fix was relatively easy but very time consuming.

We have the MS 32TK3. The black tank valve is behind the 12 gallon water heater. It took me about 3 hours to remove the water heater. Then, I was able to access the valve which I intended to replace. After removing the valve's bolts and nut I was able to open the valve far enough to remove the obstruction. Because of the tight quarters I decided to gamble and just reinstall the old valve. So far no leaks.

The obstruction was a piece of the tanks shell which is drilled out to accept the input to the tank. The installer chose to let it drop into the tank. To his/her credit it took 12 years for the piece to travel into the valve and block it.

I carry both the 1 1/2" and 3" valves with me but I hope I never have to replace them.

Larry & Barb Seiger
Presently spending the summer near Spokane.

[wingnut60]

Larry, good to hear you are doing fine. I just had the fun of replacing that valve on my '15--except for the water filter/lines in the way, it wasn't too hard. But I went at it from the front, not the water side . New valve basically works with a finger pull/push.
We just got into Denver for a week--vet check on dog for hip surgery last Feb. Will be in Seattle area some time in Aug to visit kids/gkids/ggkids.
Joe

[steve_darlene]

I replaced the seals on my '04 5er. Didn't work so I put a valve from Amazon on pipe where you hook up hose , no problems now

[Cummins12V98]

I replaced the seals on my '04 5er. Didn't work so I put a valve from Amazon on pipe where you hook up hose , no problems now

If you forget to close your grey valve you will end up with the grey tank turning BLACK.

You should move your valve to where I relocated mine.

[wingnut60]

Cummins,
Good point--if black is leaking continually and drain is closed off with grey open, on a DRV it will first back up into grey tank as it is below the black. Not really a good thing.

[steve_darlene]

I never leave my grey or shower valve open . I use that soapy water to clean hose

[Cummins12V98]

Saw a recent post where the RV was TOTALED because the grey tank valve was closed. Someone had bumped the shower valve and overnight the tank filled and flooded the RV.

Grey OPEN is my motto. It gets closed and flushed when I do my Black dump and flush. Set timer for 10 minutes then open valve. Never an issue.

[porthole]

Grey tank valves left open - a bit of controversy.

Allegedly modern sewer systems in CG’s are designed to be a closed system, eg not vented throughout the campground via trailer plumbing.

Aside from that, one of the joys of leaving the grey open is when your neighbors dump their tanks. That open grey valve is a direct vent to the roof and is probably why full hook up campgrounds stink on Sunday morning.

With 75 gallons I don’t see a reason to leave it open. But, if I have to leave the rig for a period of time and I’m not sure of the spousal intents, I will leave the grey just cracked open a bit. Letting the water trickle out.

[Cummins12V98]

If ya don't want the sewer gasses coming up and thru the roof put a dip in your sewer hose to create a "P" trap seal.

[porthole]

If ya don't want the sewer gasses coming up and thru the roof put a dip in your sewer hose to create a "P" trap seal.

That’s always interesting to see when someone pulls the handle of an elevated 3” dump and that big slug of water hits the first bend.

[wingnut60]

Doesn't take long to figure out to ease it open....however, with the DRV valves tendency to be hard to pull, an 'ease into it' is hard to accomplish.
The replacement is working fine, only thing I did wrong was to order the 72" cable instead of the 48"-48 would have worked better in fitment, with less length to give a problem later.

[Cummins12V98]

WOW, good luck on that LOOONG cable!

[golf_bears]

Hi Joe, Hope all is well? In replacing dump valves on my 2008 MS I've always cut the cable to a functional length. Usually ended up cutting a good 1-1/2 ft. off of 6 ft. cable.

[wingnut60]

Cummins, if/when it gives out again, will surely use the shorter one. I believe that even tho the oem valve was obviously a Bristol/LaSalle model, the new one looks like it is made somewhat better and seals are different color.
golf_bears, could not figure out how to shorten it--handle end is threaded for the screw and did not trust myself to disassemble the business end.

All is well for now, the loonngg cable is easily pulled/pushed and working well.

[Dapperdan]

Just a tip, I read on one of these forums to "try" lubing the cables with WD40 or silicone spray. I started to give the cables a "squirt" every other time I pulled the handles staring last September. This spring while in Florida I was pleasantly surprised as to how easily both the gray AND black handles pulled!! Give it a try, it's working well for me. I've only lubed the cables once this year so far, not that I "had to" but thought I'd do it anyway. For me anyway so far so good. YMMV :grin:

Dan

[MTK46]

Just a tip, I read on one of these forums to "try" lubing the cables with WD40 or silicone spray. I started to give the cables a "squirt" every other time I pulled the handles staring last September. This spring while in Florida I was pleasantly surprised as to how easily both the gray AND black handles pulled!! Give it a try, it's working well for me. I've only lubed the cables once this year so far, not that I "had to" but thought I'd do it anyway. For me anyway so far so good. YMMV :grin:

Dan
I totally agree Dan. I've owned quite a few RV's and the DRV has the hardest pull cables of any I've owned. I lubed them up and what a difference. :grin:

[bwaites]

Where do you spray?

[MTK46]

Once you pull a valve (black or gray) open spray the shaft. Close it and do it again. I did mine probably 4 or 5 times before I noticed a difference. I did one valve and closed it & then did the other. I switched back and forth, allowing a few minutes between each one.
I used a can that had a long tube so you can get the spray where you want it. I used WD-40 Dry Lube PTFE Spray

[Dapperdan]

I did/do the SAME thing MTK46 has been doing. It's worked well for me. The valve doesn't leak and now with spraying it periodically it's very easy to pull out and push in. Pretty simple fix IMHO.

Dan