Goodyear blowouts

[Jimfla]

I have a 2011 with Goodyear g114 tires had two blowouts 100 miles apart thread separation not side wall tires were little over 5 years old . I use tire monitor tires were never run low on air never been patched . How many years has everybody getting out of there tires I thought it was 7 years now Goodyear says 4 years .

[Stripit]

Are you saying the tread peeled off and then the tire blew apart? What tire pressures have you been maintaining and have you ever weighed the trailer by wheel position to assertain the real correct tire pressures needed? The G114 is the 17.5 inch tire and for the most part has been a real work horse tire and not showing a lot failures as compared to the G rated tires that were always running close to the max loaded point in many cases.

[Jimfla]

Had trailer weighed well within 4800 lb limit cold tire pressure 115 lbs

[Stripit]

Had trailer weighed well within 4800 lb limit cold tire pressure 115 lbs
Was the weigh done by wheel position as in each wheel, or on a Cat scale?

[wingnut60]

Sounds like just bad luck, but at 5 years--even 17.5s--I would have been replacing them.

Had Michelin 17.5s that lasted 4 years and had tread separations. No help from Michelin.

Running Sailuns now with 2 years and an Alaska trip on them, they are doing very well.

Would not let this sour you on the G114s, they are a very good tire.

Joe

[Jimfla]

I had individual tires weighed had no problems for 5 years.interresing when road service brought out a tire after second blow out it was a sailurs I was a little scptical being a Chinese tire but you have had good luck with them a lot of people with the 15 and 16 haven't had very good luck with Chinese tires but not sailurs good to here you are having good luck with them could be an option next tire change.

[wingnut60]

I am currently running 17.5 Sailuns on the trailer and 19.5 Sailuns on the 450--no problems with either size, no flats/blowouts. If you want a long-wearing tire, these are good and not very expensive. Check them at Simpletire.com or on eBay.
However, you need to find a good, local tire shop that can handle these tires--your average auto shop doesn't want to mess with them.
Joe

[oldbird]

Any guarantee's with the Sailuns Joe?

[Cummins12V98]

Besides this post I have only heard of two GY "H" tire tread separations, never a blow out.

What side of the RV were the tires on?

[wingnut60]

Glenn,
GY is probably the only mfg that will stand behind a trailer tire. I don't know of any guarantee on the Sailuns, unless you were to buy them locally, then the dealer could see about that.
I have had Michelins, Coopers and now Sailuns. Michelins were the only ones to fail, and they did not lose air before I noticed the separations. All the 17.5s are very robust tires and dang near impossible to hurt them. I saved enough on the Sailun purchase to buy another set and still come in under the cost of a set of Michelins.
Joe

[oldbird]

Well Joe, maybe it was that Travel Supreme I had but in eight years I had 12 blow outs. Tore up the wheel wells so bad that I can't get the darn thing sold. I even after five years got the Mor/ryde on it, it helped but still had a few blow outs. I have two coopers and two Aeolus 17.5 H tires now less then two years old. I might try another six month trip at 10K to 12K starting next spring with them but I sure don't want to ruin my new to me MS. My neighbor told me also that GY will stand behind their tires, I just have to decide whether or not to try another snow bird six month getaway from AZ with this mix of tires I have now. I have to say that this past summers trip was the first six month trip without a flat in 12 years! It was basically have a flat, go to the next town to buy another tire, repeat. Yes, the 17.5's are tough but when they go its like a shotgun going off in your ear! There is no doubt you had a flat.

[wingnut60]

Glenn,
Don't know what to say about the TS. As to the Suites--you have a similar model to mine, and I would think your GVWR is 17500/18000? If so, your PW should be about 4200, leaving 13300/13800 on the axles. You have 4805/tire carrying capacity, and even if one side is heavier than the other, it shouldn't be anywhere near overloading any single tire--somewhere around 1300+ extra capacity per tire with the 17.5s.
You still will need to monitor the tread wear to make sure the axles are aligned ok--that is what got my Coopers way before the tread was gone--curb just jumped out at me and I had no time to dodge it...
Joe

[oldbird]

Darn curbs, lol. I never bought insurance on the TS but have on the MS, that's why I didn't have any flats my first snow bird six month trip ;)! Thread wear looks great so far, what I'm thinking is to get a new set of tires on the truck and next winter a new set of tires on the MS. Yes indeed, the PW is probably 1,500 lbs. more then the TS was.

[Pvsaint]

I had 4 blowouts with the Goodyear 17.5's that came with my '13 MS. Goodyear covered all the costs but I believe they had a bad batch of tires. None of the replacements have problems.

[wingnut60]

Interesting, have not heard of that many other blowouts with them. Glad GY took care of you.

[Lewin Kuster]

My 2003 Teton (15K lbs) came second hand last year with GY 14ply tires, looking good. In 3 months lost tread down to steel on 2 of them. Turns out they were original tires! RV guys and RV tire dealers say 4-5 years max! So now I have 4 new GY 14 ply and feel real safe. Yes, lots of scratch for those rubber guys, but I feel good about it.

Luke

[donald]

I am told by a reputable dealer that they should be replaced every 4 yrs or so no matter how good they look. From your experience it seems like good advice. Did you get any damage to camper as a result of the blow out? I use the tire minder as well. Hopefully with the early warning one might be able to avoid some collateral damage

[Cummins12V98]

NO WAY would I replace GY "G" or "H" tires at less than 6-7 years unless they were worn out. Since 2007 they have been an extremely reliable tire.

Talk other tires I would agree.

[donald]

Good to know. Makes me feel a little better. Thanks
Donald

[oldbird]

A GY dealer quoted me $2,200 for the G114's, ouch! Mine are three years old, I think I'll go one more summer with mine (they aren't GY). I have to buy a set for my pickup, that's enough for one year!

[Lewin Kuster]

Yep, lots of damage, but never lost one pound of air. Rode all the way home on steel belts. Damage took off fender skirt trim, insulation under slide out, and the end of the sewer drain pipe. Also strengthener struts that support fiberglass skirts. Never heard a thing nor felt any vibration. Some tire though going 70+ miles on radials.

Lew

[chevman]

We have bought new G-614 every 5 years. My friend had a G-614 given to him that was 7 years old because he did not believe the 5 year story he installed that tire on his alpenlite. Leaving Seattle he almost made it to Spokane before it blew and damaged his fender. His wife was not happy when she learned of his stupidly.

chevman

[CALinSC]

Almost always on multi axle trailers when a catastrophic failure occurs the opposing tire suffers near fatal internal damage. It may fail right away or 100 miles down the road. In all events its life expectancy is dramatically shortened.

I know most of you may know that but it hasn't been mentioned.

[Suite Sweets]

Cal I never heard that before. By opposing, do you mean other tire, same axle or do you mean opposite tire, other axle ? If the later, can you explain why? When the opposing tire suffers near fatal internal damage, can it be felt by removing the tire from the rim and feeling with hand ?

[Stripit]

I think he ment, when two tires are on the same side of the trailer and 1 tire fails, rapid loss of pressure as in blow out, the weight of that side of the trailer that was supported by 2 tires is now mostly being carried by 1 tire, the one with air. It does stress the tire and stastictics show that that sudden load of extra weights do harm the tire. They seem to fail after a while, that while could be a hundred miles or many thousands of miles, but they seeem to fail.

[Suite Sweets]

thanks Stacey

[CALinSC]

Cal I never heard that before. By opposing, do you mean other tire, same axle or do you mean opposite tire, other axle ? If the later, can you explain why? When the opposing tire suffers near fatal internal damage, can it be felt by removing the tire from the rim and feeling with hand ?

The tire (S) on the same side are stressed more than those on the other side of the trailer.

The Rubber Manufacturer's Association (RMA) recommends dismounting the tire from the rim for internal examination.

Another very good explanation in post # 25.

[Suite Sweets]

Cal (and Stacey, I hope you'll chime in)
1. In doing the internal inspection, can we expect Walmart tire guys (who i find to be good, though not the best) to know for what to look and be able to spot the prospective failure of the other tire ? Or is it going to be a 'send it to the engineering department of the manufacturer'? Which isn't likely to happen.

2.Is there something specific for which they look, or just anything out of the ordinary ? I'd like the tire mechanic to bring me the tire for a 2nd opinion, but I don't know for what to look.

3. Finally, as I read this part of the link, exposure to failure of the other tire is resultant of catastrophic (blowout) of the first tire - not just a slow flat. It that correct?

Having been through a blow-out, and seen how quickly the body damages reached $3K, I'm thinking it might be foolish economy to do other than replace all tires on one side. But that's dependent on how positive could be the conclusion of the internal inspection.

[Stripit]

Way back when I had the weighing business weighing RV's by wheel position I used to spend more time than I should have in various tire stores along my routes asking questions. One was how do you inspect tires? Many of the real tire stores that most of us use have for the most part younger and inexperianced employees. Many didn't know what I was asking, the common answer was , well I look at it! From what I found to actually inspect a tire first it needed to be dismounted. Then with a good light source look inside the tire and run your hands over the ribs, looking and feeling for anything that would be not like the rest of the tire. Finding any slight bumps, ripples or humps indicates broken cords, weak cords or a source of impact and can and normally does weaken the internal strength of the tire. Almost without fail, none of these problems are seen from the outside untill it is too late. I use the term cords and that can and normally is the wires built into the tire for strength. The cost to dismount and inspect is a reason most folksdon't do it, thinking the tire looks fine why spend the money and that seems to work for many, but every so often an inspection would catch an impending doom situation before it happens.

[CALinSC]

A “slow” leak that causes tire failures in steel cased tires almost always results in sidewall failure rather than the commonly called “blowout” in the tread area. Such sidewall failures with steel cased tires are referred to as “zipper ruptures”. Sometimes before the tire fails smallish broken steel strands in the sidewall can be seen or felt protruding through the sidewall rubber.

On the other hand, overloaded steel cased tires will normally suffer tread separations very similar to fiber corded carcasses. However, they will not normally blow until part or all of the tread area has left the carcass. A blowout before that happens may be caused by foreign object damage.

[Suite Sweets]

You two have prompted me to begin keeping a log, by serial number of the tire, and location (on the rig) of the tire, at the occurrence of each tire event. When in route, I'm not willing to pull the other tires, same side, for inspection. But I'd be willing at the next long-term stop to use the leveling jacks to raise the trailer, and take the non-event tires to have them checked out (and to serve as the 2nd opinion, now that I have been alerted for what to look). I'm hoping that by not doing the inspection immediately, that putting some miles on the non-involved tires will allow any problems that will manifest themselves, to begin to appear - the easier to spot.
Stacey - you wrote of younger and inexperienced employees. Too frequently the case. We all want to buy on the basis of price alone, and then there is no money to keep those employees until they are experienced. But the inexperienced also, seem to not care to learn. Just put in their time.
Thank you both for helping me along on this

[Stripit]

A “slow” leak that causes tire failures in steel cased tires almost always results in sidewall failure rather than the commonly called “blowout” in the tread area. Such sidewall failures with steel cased tires are referred to as “zipper ruptures”. Sometimes before the tire fails smallish broken steel strands in the sidewall can be seen or felt protruding through the sidewall rubber.

On the other hand, overloaded steel cased tires will normally suffer tread separations very similar to fiber corded carcasses. However, they will not normally blow until part or all of the tread area has left the carcass. A blowout before that happens may be caused by foreign object damage.

Very true, and the cause of the slow leak can be many different reasons. This is why I always suggested a Tire Pressure Monitor System to help the driver monitor those slow leaks that "just happened".

[stanleyz]

I'm gonna try and revive this thread and see if I can get some more use out of it. In 2010 when my 5er was 5 years old I looked hard at the OE tires (GoodYear G614 16 inch load range G) and decided they would stand another summer trip. So I loaded up and headed west. Made it all the way to Anniston AL. (150 miles or so) before I had the first blow out. Took out the gas line, the AC power line and some other stuff. I put the spare on and limped to Tupelo MS where I spent 3 days and 20 trips to Home Depot to get everything back together. Best I could do for a new spare was a E rated truck tire but figured it would get me off the highway and to an RV park if anything else happened. A few weeks later I'm in OK and the other OE tire on that side blew out. If I had read this thread I would have expected it. Changed that one and now I'm on an E rated truck tire. I soft pedal to Fort Smith AR and find a truck tire place and get two G114 G rated tires and I'm good to go. As soon as I get back to ATL I find a truck place and go get two more GY 16 inch G rated tires. By 2012 I have studied the tire situation some more and I go for new GY 17.5 H rated tires. Today I'm washing the trailer and I think about the tires. THEY WILL BE FIVE YEARS OLD THIS SUMMER and I'm planning a big trip.

There seem to be two opinions on this thread, "change them before 5 years" and "they are fine for 7 or 8 years". I just spent 1200 bucks getting the axles re-bent and aligned and the tires LOOK great. Besides I think I paid north of 2500$ for the tires and wheels and I don't think I got my monies worth yet. But, on the other hand I don't want to deal with any more blow outs. OPINIONS OR COMMENTS REQUESTED HERE.

[Stripit]

Something to look at. The G tires that would carry 3,750lbs if inflated to 110psi seemed to be working much harder than a H tire that would carry 4,850lbs at 125psi. What I used to find was the G tire was carrying loads close to the rated max 3,400 to over the 3,750lbs capacity. Take a tire at 3,400 lbs of weight on that G tire, makes it working at 90% capacity where if you put a H tire in its place carrying that same 3,400lbs would only be working at 71%. Less work, longer life. Way back when I was weighing RV's and talking with the tire reps, they used to say the H tire was designed as a work horse and didn't fall into the normal rv tire replacement schedules. I personally would run the H tire at least 7 and might even go up to 10 years, if you know what weights that the tires are carrying. That means you HAVE to get each corner weights, know for sure that the tire is not over loaded or over worked, run correct tire pressures and cover when not being used. Just my opinon.

[CALinSC]

I'm gonna try and revive this thread and see if I can get some more use out of it. In 2010 when my 5er was 5 years old I looked hard at the OE tires (GoodYear G614 16 inch load range G) and decided they would stand another summer trip. So I loaded up and headed west. Made it all the way to Anniston AL. (150 miles or so) before I had the first blow out. Took out the gas line, the AC power line and some other stuff. I put the spare on and limped to Tupelo MS where I spent 3 days and 20 trips to Home Depot to get everything back together. Best I could do for a new spare was a E rated truck tire but figured it would get me off the highway and to an RV park if anything else happened. A few weeks later I'm in OK and the other OE tire on that side blew out. If I had read this thread I would have expected it. Changed that one and now I'm on an E rated truck tire. I soft pedal to Fort Smith AR and find a truck tire place and get two G114 G rated tires and I'm good to go. As soon as I get back to ATL I find a truck place and go get two more GY 16 inch G rated tires. By 2012 I have studied the tire situation some more and I go for new GY 17.5 H rated tires. Today I'm washing the trailer and I think about the tires. THEY WILL BE FIVE YEARS OLD THIS SUMMER and I'm planning a big trip.

There seem to be two opinions on this thread, "change them before 5 years" and "they are fine for 7 or 8 years". I just spent 1200 bucks getting the axles re-bent and aligned and the tires LOOK great. Besides I think I paid north of 2500$ for the tires and wheels and I don't think I got my monies worth yet. But, on the other hand I don't want to deal with any more blow outs. OPINIONS OR COMMENTS REQUESTED HERE.

IMO, with those 17.5" tires having been properly inflated and never overloaded you should heed the tire manufacturer's advice on age.

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/tire-replacement-guidelines.aspx

On edit: That's right, GY is not going to give an age limit for their tires. So, you have to look at an industry standard that limits all tires to 10 years.

A good indicator from any tire manufacturer is the age limit in their warranty packages. Mostly Six Years.

[wingnut60]

Stanley,
I originally put Michelin 17.5s on my past Suites--ran them from about 2008 to 2012. Started a trip to AK and had a mobile tech tell me I had a tread separation. Upon further inspection, there were 2 tires bad, but the tread looked like new. Replaced them all right then. I put Coopers on and ran them til I curbed one and knocked out the alinement, had to replace them prematurely. Put Sailuns on and they were running fine at 2 years and about 20000miles. So, one set of 17.5s made it 4 years, and the others I didn't have long enough to run the time up.
Personally, I would try them longer, but you should have a good shop look at them.
Joe

[stanleyz]

So far I like the responses. When I bought these I was thinking I'd get 8 years out of them but today I found this thread and I read where several guys had blow outs on the H rated tires at 5 years. So, I'm wondering.

As to weighing each wheel, I don't know where to do that. Only place I know that has that kind of scale is DOT vans. I have the axle weights and of course neither one is anywhere near the rating of these tires. If I read this right the suggestion is that the tires will be harmed if the pressure is not reduced to match a tire weight below max. That's kinda different from anything I've ever heard. I was always taught that running the tires at sidewall numbers would make the ride harsher but increase the life of the tire. Hence the difference in the sidewall pressure and the door tag pressure recommended by the manufacturer. I'm sure both numbers are required by the feds but it's counter intuitive to me that lowering pressure would increase a tires life. Where would I find a formula for what pressure would be correct for what wheel weight? Or, do I have to do the arithmetic? Man that would make my head hurt.

[Stripit]

If the tire manufacturers only wanted tires to run full pressure all the time they would not print the air pressure tire guide as to what a tire will carry at what load and tire pressures. When I ran the G tires I ran at 110psi as I was so close to the max load carrying of those tires, but when I upped to H I never ran the max pressure. I ran 5 psi over the amount the guide sugested for the loads I had. This year those tires are 10 years old and the new owner will be replacing them.

[CALinSC]

Where would I find a formula for what pressure would be correct for what wheel weight? Or, do I have to do the arithmetic? Man that would make my head hurt.

There is a tire industry standard to be used when using plus sized replacements.

Because the vehicle manufacturer’s cold recommended tire inflation pressures listed on the certification label/tire placard for the Original Equipment (OE) tires are considered golden by the tire industry, they become the benchmark for all subsequent replacements.

So, using that standard, the cold recommended inflation pressures for the plus sized replacements will be determined by the load capacity the OE tires provided at the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended inflation pressures listed on the certification label/tire placard. You should always set the new recommendation and then add whatever pressures you desire above that to provide the load capacity reserves you want. Never exceed the wheel load capacity or psi capacity or the load capacity of the tire.

NHTSA allows the use of an auxiliary tire placard for plus sized tires. You can hand make one or ask your tire dealer to provide you with one. It should be placed adjacent to the trailer’s tire placard.

A note: Tire manufacturer’s DO NOT set tire inflation pressures. The vehicle manufacturer has done that and all subsequent settings need to be derived from the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.

[wingnut60]

Stanley,
Do you run TP sensors? If so, they would be very useful if you want to go to the trouble to keep track of how fast the pressure rises from cold over time at lower psi. I believe you will find that the lower you run the psi at any given load, the faster/higher the psi will rise, along with temp, when towing. I do not think you can do much better than run the sidewall max psi (which will be either 120 or 125 for most 17.5s).
We can get caught up too much with specs/opinions/tables/charts--which may be helpful for lower load range tires--but for the 17.5s, just run at the sidewall max and enjoy the trip.
Joe

[stanleyz]

Stanley,
Do you run TP sensors? If so, they would be very useful if you want to go to the trouble to keep track of how fast the pressure rises from cold over time at lower psi. I believe you will find that the lower you run the psi at any given load, the faster/higher the psi will rise, along with temp, when towing. I do not think you can do much better than run the sidewall max psi (which will be either 120 or 125 for most 17.5s).
We can get caught up too much with specs/opinions/tables/charts--which may be helpful for lower load range tires--but for the 17.5s, just run at the sidewall max and enjoy the trip.
Joe

Yes, I do use TPIS but I've never used it like that. I mainly look for one that might be out of sync with the others, I got the TPIS after the 17.5s and it's never shown one out of range but it does give a lot of false alarms. I have been towing stuff of one kind or another since 1958 and all I've ever used is sidewall max but the guys above are making some interesting points. I guess I'm gonna have to go on the GY web site and see what they say.

Right now I'm thinking I'll try one more year with these tires and then think on it.

Thanks to all who responded.

[stanleyz]

Besides this post I have only heard of two GY "H" tire tread separations, never a blow out.

What side of the RV were the tires on?

OK, make it three. I had the 16 inch and blew 2 in 2010. (5 years old). replaced them, thought about it and upgraded to 17.5 inch 16 ply H rated in 2012. Tires were made in mid 2012 and mounted in September of 2012. In July 2017 one blew out, thread separation. Replaced all 4 with Hankooks and discarded the three that hadn't blown yet.

PS, don't bother blaming the customer. None of the tires were ever abused and even the G rated tires were well within ratings.

Moral of the story: 4 years and off they go, period.

[Cummins12V98]

"PS, don't bother blaming the customer."

Not sure where that statement came from???



Did the 17.5 actually blow? I have ONLY heard of and seen the center three ribs come loose, no blow outs on any.

I recently had one loose center tread, and two that were suspicious. Daniels tire in Bakersfield, CA replaced all three. I spoke to the SoCal rep and he said they would pay for all three to be replaced.


This is the first and ONLY GY tire issue I have ever had and they stood up like I knew they would and took care of me.

You should have turned in your bad 17.5 for a replacement or refund.

[Stripit]

The whole time I was out weighing rv's I heard so many stories of the G tires failing and found in many cases they were just working too hard, too close to max loaded range 100% of the time (trailers too heavy for the tire) plus there was a time frame of construction problems. But when folks went up to the H rated tire the failure rate almost disappeared. Then you would hear of the rare failure of an H and it was tread peeling, no loss of air pressure. The Goodyear Rep I was dealing with said to me he thought that failure was almost always too low of pressure for the load it was required to carry. Thus twisting the tread of the casing when the trailer was backing into a site at low speed. Was he right or wrong? don't know but the H was a lot better tire for the heavy trailers.

[anijet]

Well, I had a true blow out last week. Goodyear H tires mfg. and bought in late 2012. Probably less than 30K miles. Always run at 120 psi cold. Tread still looked like 90%. Rolling down I80 just west of SLC it sounded like a 12 gauge! Looked in mirror and smoke was rolling out. Pulled over as quickly as I could. Looked back and saw part of the tread on the road where the tire blew. TST monitor didn't have time to warn, it was sudden. Bought a new set of Goodyears in SLC. Damage to the outside was fairly minor, some wrinkling of the lower skirt behind the aft wheel. It tore up the underside outside of the frame behind the tire.

[stanleyz]

That settles it, I 80 is the problem. That's where mine blew too in South Dakota near BFE. Only the old guys will know where that is. (if you don't know ask your dad) Mine was always aired up properly and should not have blown at less than 5 years old. My TPMS was on and working but didn't have time to alarm. Tread came off in the center and the tire blew.

Blame the customer is what GY reps are prone to do. Great example above. The tire blew because it was under aired and backed into a space and twisted. Excuse me but I thought it was designed for a trailer. They mostly have multi axles and the tires twist. Or the ones that say that airing a tire is akin to brain surgery and you should re-air every time the water in the tanks increases or decreases. How does the customer prove he did or didn't do those things.

I agree the G rated tires were pretty light for the Mobile Suites but I'm almost sure that if we could find it there was a document where GY assured Doubletree that the tires were adequate for the trailer. The H rated tires should not fail like that. I paid top dollar for what I thought was a top tire but I gave the other three away and if offered replacements I would only take them to sell. I am done with GY.

[stanleyz]

Just for grins I thought I'd put a pic of the G rated blow out. 1 of 2 I had the same year. Looks like the SOS to me.

[anijet]

Thought I would mention that last year when i had the Morryde IS installed they weighed each wheel and the highest was around 3800 pounds. About 1000 pounds less than the tire is rated for. I will admit on the open road I roll at 75 mph, again it's what the tire is rated for. Getting tires in SLC they wanted $2400 for a set of Goodyear and $1400 for a Hankook made H tire. They assured me the Hankook's were rated fro 75 mph and since the Goodyear didn't work out too well, I agreed to install them. During the install I pressed them for documentation of the 75 mph. After about an hour of searching they finally found the rating - 65 mph. I made them pull them off and complained about being mislead into a probable dangerous situation. They agreed to $2000 OTD balanced with new metal valve stems for Goodyear since I didn't have time to research other brands.

Been through BFE but never spent the night. Couple more pictures.

[Cummins12V98]

The whole time I was out weighing rv's I heard so many stories of the G tires failing and found in many cases they were just working too hard, too close to max loaded range 100% of the time (trailers too heavy for the tire) plus there was a time frame of construction problems. But when folks went up to the H rated tire the failure rate almost disappeared. Then you would hear of the rare failure of an H and it was tread peeling, no loss of air pressure. The Goodyear Rep I was dealing with said to me he thought that failure was almost always too low of pressure for the load it was required to carry. Thus twisting the tread of the casing when the trailer was backing into a site at low speed. Was he right or wrong? don't know but the H was a lot better tire for the heavy trailers.


My RV axle weight is 17,960# on CAT scales. I run 125psi. 4,806# capacity x 4 = 19,224#.

[Cummins12V98]

Well, I had a true blow out last week. Goodyear H tires mfg. and bought in late 2012. Probably less than 30K miles. Always run at 120 psi cold. Tread still looked like 90%. Rolling down I80 just west of SLC it sounded like a 12 gauge! Looked in mirror and smoke was rolling out. Pulled over as quickly as I could. Looked back and saw part of the tread on the road where the tire blew. TST monitor didn't have time to warn, it was sudden. Bought a new set of Goodyears in SLC. Damage to the outside was fairly minor, some wrinkling of the lower skirt behind the aft wheel. It tore up the underside outside of the frame behind the tire.


Did you turn in a claim? If not you should have. Yes even at 6 years old, they may surprise you.

[wingnut60]

It is my useless opinion that any Doubletree/DRV fiver running on 16" wheels is going to have trouble some day. These units should all have 17.5" tires/wheels, then the capacity is there for the trailer.
If a 17.5" blows/fails, then that to me is just bad luck. At 4805lbs/tire, it gives 19220 for capacity on 4 tires. With about +20% pin weight on almost any DRV, that gives a gross capacity of around 23000 for the unit. At that point, you should be in triple-axle territory.
I had 17.5s on my '05 (changed them soon after purchase in '07 based on advice from another former Suites owner (sigo 'n suites, remember him?). Since then, have never had a tire failure in possibly 100k miles of towing. Currently have GYs on the '15 I just got--hoping they work well as the Michelins/Coopers/Sailuns I have used.
Joe

[Cummins12V98]

stanley's, what date were your GY "G" tires? up to mid 07 they did have failures. after that they have had a stellar record.

As far as tire monitoring IMHO it's a waste of time, money, and dash space! My tread came loose 15 minutes after I fueled and inferred the tires, go figure!

The rep said if I notice my 4th tire center tread looking visibly higher than the outer two to call him and he would have it replaced no problem.

[CALinSC]

Here is the reference to the Goodyear G114. Click on the “back to details” tab and you will find that it is specifically designed for “trailer service only”. It’s a regional service tire (RST).

https://www.goodyeartrucktires.com/tires/sizes-specs-page.html?prodline=160807

[porkchop]

stanleyz+ If you were on I-80 in South Dakota you had a lot more problems than tires!

Bill

[stanleyz]

Yeah. I would have likedsailuns i may have spelled that wrong. Getting a lot of good feedback on them including my tire guy of 20 years at home.

However. Having popped the GY 12 miles from BFE my options were limited. Instead of waiting the required 3 hours for road side I elected to put the spare on myself. A 10 ply truck tire so i wasnt going to go too far onit. When i found the nearest truck tire dealer the only 17.5 they had were the hankooks and they only had 2. So i took those and when i got to wall i got the local tire guy to get me two more. I was in Korea for 13 months in 1962 and I have a soft spot for the country. That does not extend to North Korea.

I did note the absense of a speed rating on the sidewalls but was told 65 which is fine for me. I am absolutly sure both sets of failed GYs were properly inflated at all times. I am equally sure that the new tires will be replaced after 4 years of age regardless of miles. I would suggest that as a good pratice for anyone towing a heavy 5er.

[stanleyz]

Well yeah i had it on a trailer. Regional use i think is a reflection on the wheel size

[stanleyz]

stanleyz+ If you were on I-80 in South Dakota you had a lot more problems than tires!

Bill

Yeah I did. It was high 90s low 100s. But the only ways west are 70 80 or 90. Like choosing between 3 ugly women to date.

[stanleyz]

stanley's, what date were your GY "G" tires? up to mid 07 they did have failures. after that they have had a stellar record.

As far as tire monitoring IMHO it's a waste of time, money, and dash space! My tread came loose 15 minutes after I fueled and inferred the tires, go figure!

The rep said if I notice my 4th tire center tread looking visibly higher than the outer two to call him and he would have it replaced no problem.

Yep. My Gs were dated mid 05. I tried to get a fifth year from them. They looked great.

[porkchop]

70 rruns across kansas, 80 across nebraska, 90 is in south dakota unless my memory is faulty

[stanleyz]

70 rruns across kansas, 80 across nebraska, 90 is in south dakota unless my memory is faulty

Yep. Miles and miles of boring. 90 has the advantage of the black hills. We really like it there. We go back on 70 to spend a few days in colo springs, another stop we like. Headed there today matter of fact. Over monarch pass 11,000 ft plus. Now there is a place you dont want a blow out.

[wingnut60]

Stanley,
Got a lot of miles out of a set of Hankooks on my 450...no flats, no blowouts. Just rode harder than iron.

[golf_bears]

We had a 2008 MS TK3 with the GY 114s. Drove well over 60,000 miles on them including a trip to Alaska. After 7 years felt it was time to replace them. Went with the Hankooks and had no issues. Have since traded in the 2008 for a 2017. The 2017 has the GY 114s on it. Hope all goes well with the GY 114s on our new RV.

Good luck with what ever tire replacement you go with.

[CALinSC]

You’re going to start seeing a lot of these on 7000# axles. All of the major China manufacturer’s are building them.

ST235/80R16G

http://www.irv2.com/photopost/showfull.php?photo=29711

[CALinSC]

Stanley,
Got a lot of miles out of a set of Hankooks on my 450...no flats, no blowouts. Just rode harder than iron.

I seem to recall that your Michelin that suffered the tread separation was a "J" rated European designed tire. They are speed rated at 62 MPH. I think Michelin only did them on the Suites for about a year.

I emailed Michelin a number of times about that speed rating for RV service and never got an answer. I live 10 miles from Michelin of North America so I stopped-in and asked the duty expert. The answer was; "We are suspending that fitment with DRV". Nothing about why.

[wingnut60]

Your memory is pretty darn good...had 2 of them at 4 years, but the tires were not OEM with Doubletree, I installed the 17.5s and wheels.
62mph was not often exceeded with those tires, but Mich would not help when they separated.

[Joezilla]

I always thought the J rated Michelins were rated at 62 mph because of the European requirement. They wanted the same speed rating the world over. I could be wrong though.

We had the Michelins on our 2012 Select Suites and never had a problem with them. Went to Arizona and back from Texas several times, and to Iowa and back several times. I always thought they were good tires.

Joe

[Stripit]

I used to think Michelin was the best made tire, but if you had any issue, their normal response was what did you do to cause our tire to fail? Goodyear often would replace the tire and fix the damage caused when one of their tires failed. Getting warrany on a Michelin was difficult, not impossible but normally much harder than Goodyear. That was what I found when I was weighing rigs. I ran Goodyears on the Mobile Suites and Michelin on the truck and car.

[porthole]

August 2010 I purchased 5 GY G-114's and new rims for our toy hauler (2 axle MOR/ryde IS)
April 2015 I had a right rear blowout, while coming off a sweeping left turn exit from the interstate.
Two things I think kept the trailer from rolling, the MOR/ryde IS and remaining GY 114
This was about 1 hour after starting the morning travel (on a Sunday) and we had 350 miles to go.
Since I no longer had a spare we did about 50 mph the rest of the way. My normal travel speed is 55-65.

Went to a GY dealer in Myrtle Beach.
Goodyear tire warranty division wanted nothing to do with the blowout.
My tires were 5 years and 2 months by date code but 4 years and 8 months by purchase date.

Two items of note, the TPMS did not alert when the tire blew. There was a delay and the TPS showed 70 psi at that tire until I turned it off and restarted. 70 psi wth no tread! Goodyear corporate was interested in the tire and wanted to see the tread and sidewall. The GY store had a bit of time convincing the people on the phone that there was no tread and hardly any sidewall.

I had the shop replace all 4 tries, did not want to take a chance with the remaining tires.

Someone, don't recall who, suggested I contact the GY property and damage division.

Started that conversation with explaining the difference in dates (tire build vs purchase).
Nice lady on the other end of the phone told me, we don't care about that, just get all you information together and forward to this email.......

All GY comms from that point were by email.
I submitted a claim for:
The 4 tire replacement I did in Myrtle Beach $1950
The rim (which was damaged during the blowout) and
The spare (originally I purchased 5 wheels and tires) $650
Body damage $3578
4" PVC storage tube $40
Duraflap mud flap $60

I submitted my claim May 19th, received an mail with a release to sign on May 21 and within a week I had a check for the full amount.
Only thing I didn't get was the $107 I paid for the body estimate, as I forgot to include that on my claim.

In this picture I have finished up and putting away the last of my tools. Notice the nice trooper still holding my hub cap for me?

[Cummins12V98]

I am in the process of getting my money back, I had a tread separation loss and two other tires looked suspicious. GY dealer replaced three tires and I had to pay $1,714 for those. They DID NOT get my approval to replace two suspicious ones. So far they have sent me two checks totaling $1,081. The tires only had around 12,000 miles so the pro rating is not even close. I have been dealing with Fred a CA rep and he has been very good to deal with. So my story is not closed yet but I am sure they will make it right.

[Bikersarge]

We put Sailun tires on ours, they are a 14ply G rated, sidewalls very stout and weigh 20 lbs more then the ST/ E rated tires on the market. feel real good about these tires.

Bob

[wingnut60]

Tho by the time I need to replace the 114s on current trailer, the tire market will have changed--but I probably will replace them with the Sailuns I had on the '05 when we traded it. Also used them on the 450 with very good life. I have mentioned that they are a very hard rubber compound--last forever, but with a hard ride.
Joe