HEHR windows

[oldbird]

My three big windows are going bad, very bad. Can any body recommend a place for replacement? I suppose they are expensive!

[netjam]

I got my Hehrs directly from DRV. When I needed replacements for my Lipperts (Kinro) I went to the trailer manufacturer as well. Lippert would not sell windows directly to a consumer. (not sure if Hehr will deal directly with end user) For installation I used a local window place.....yes not cheap for windows or labor.

[missourijan]

You don't have to replace, there are repair places RVFogDr in Searcy, AR, Suncoast Designers in Hudson, FL, Dave Root RV Glass Repair, Bend, OR and Auto Glass Boss in Phoenix/Yuma. Those have been mentioned on various forums and have warranties

[wingnut60]

Long time ago, had to replace most of mine due to bad fogging--DRV handled it and Hehr sent me the windows. I installed them myself. That was about 5 years ago, and not too long after, they began fogging again. I have just given up and now just consider myself to be in a fog most of the time.
I have heard $85/window mentioned for one of the unfogging places to fix.
Joe

[oldbird]

I got my Hehrs directly from DRV. When I needed replacements for my Lipperts (Kinro) I went to the trailer manufacturer as well. Lippert would not sell windows directly to a consumer. (not sure if Hehr will deal directly with end user) For installation I used a local window place.....yes not cheap for windows or labor.

I sent Hehrs a email to a place in MI that I will be in a month or so. I'll post if I get a reply.

You don't have to replace, there are repair places RVFogDr in Searcy, AR, Suncoast Designers in Hudson, FL, Dave Root RV Glass Repair, Bend, OR and Auto Glass Boss in Phoenix/Yuma. Those have been mentioned on various forums and have warranties

This is good to know, I winter in AZ and will check out Auto Glass Boss!

Long time ago, had to replace most of mine due to bad fogging--DRV handled it and Hehr sent me the windows. I installed them myself. That was about 5 years ago, and not too long after, they began fogging again. I have just given up and now just consider myself to be in a fog most of the time.
I have heard $85/window mentioned for one of the unfogging places to fix.
Joe

I wouldn't know the first thing about replacing the windows, sounds like your pretty handy Joe! I'll rebuild your truck, you put windows in my MS, how's that? :D LOL But really, that's not right! They know these windows are crap but yet they keep using them? You must be beside yourself having them fog after you did all that work!! Bad windows, add another 10 grand to the price!

[wingnut60]

With a Ford, will keep that offer in mind--could have used you last June when I dropped a valve.
Taking the windows out and replacing them isn't as hard as it sounds--they come out from the outside and the only tough one is the big rear picture window. That place in Bend, OR, sells a DIY kit for the windows, might check them out.
Joe

[oldbird]

Thanks Joe, I'll stay in the 'fog' until next winter in AZ. Its nice to get this info!

[wwc]

I have now sold my 2006 MS, but I will still pass this along. I will give you my experience and you can take it for what it is worth. I had both large side windows and the large rear window that were fogged. While in Yuma,AZ in February 2015 I called Auto Glass of Phoenix-Yuma. I explained to them that I would like to get all three of the large windows fixed. Took about 4 or 5 days, for them to send tech out. Now I had replaced these windows once when Hehr was replacing the glass for free. I knew how they were taken out, however the guy from Auto Glass explained that they did not take the window out from the outside. They had this tool where they tried to cut the seal around the window from the inside. The tech kept breaking blades and said he had never seen a seal that tough. Also told me that he had never taken a window out from the outside. Finally he had to take it out from the outside. After about 4 hours, finally got one window sealed and replaced, however by then Auto Glass had called and had a rush job for him. I was told that they would return next day to fix the other windows. I paid l00 dollars for that one window and never heard from Auto Glass again. To make it worse, before we arrived back home in South Carolina that window had once again fogged up. Again I am not telling anyone what to do, just telling you about my experience.
WWC

[wingnut60]

Just to be clear--is Auto Glass Yuma/Phoenix the same as Auto Glass Boss of Yuma/Phoenix?

[wwc]

Hi wingnut60. It is and was at the time my understanding that I was using Auto Glass Boss Yuma-Phoenix. Now right now I am not at the location where I have the paid receipt, so I will not say for l00 percent that it is Auto-glass Boss, but I am 99 percent sure.
I will say there was someone on this forum that had used them and that is where I got their name. However the person on this forum to the best of my memory, said that the owner came and did his work. That was not the case in my situation, as I had one of the workers.
I will say this, I would be surprised if there is two separate glass companies in the Phoenix-Yuma with names that close, with one being Auto-Glass and another being Auto-Glass Boss.
To say that I was not happy with their work would be a gross understatement.
WWC

[Cummins12V98]

My three big windows are going bad, very bad. Can any body recommend a place for replacement? I suppose they are expensive!

Contact Greg Vaughn at DRV. They will sell to you at a reasonable price. You get the right windows that way.

[oldbird]

Sooo, what's a guy to do? Live with it like Joe? Now that I've been in this thing for a month straight now I'm seeing all kinds of stuff. What is really bothering me is the refrigerator.Things will not freeze solid in the freezer if you have it turned down enough to stop things from freezing in the bottom section! But I guess that's another thread!

[Cummins12V98]

Fridge is in slide right? Open top vent and look down there are large voids around the cooling fans. I packed insulation in those voids. I believe I placed insulation and some way to hold it at the top. I mounted a small axial fan behind the top vent and had it attached to a switch. You will be amazed at how well the unit will work.

[oldbird]

Fridge is in slide right? Open top vent and look down there are large voids around the cooling fans. I packed insulation in those voids. I believe I placed insulation and some way to hold it at the top. I mounted a small axial fan behind the top vent and had it attached to a switch. You will be amazed at how well the unit will work.

Yes, its in a slide. Its a four door dometic (sp). I had it worked on in AZ before leaving over a month ago because it would stop working on propane. New circuit board, flu cleaned out, etc but it didn't change anything. It will run on propane for ten-twelve hours which is good enough when driving. I have looked down there and yes, there is a big void. I think that's a good idea of putting insulation down there, I'll have to try that. At first I think I'll try the insulation just at the top behind the freezer because I run the refri on #1. If I try a higher setting things will freeze in the bottom section. You lost me on the small axial fan, how did you mount that? Thanks

[wingnut60]

Glenn,
Your fridge should be similar to mine--Dometic RM1292 or close--and it generally is a good working unit. First item to consider is the thermistor located on the interior fridge coils--should be located on one of the fins-- that can be moved upward/downward. This is the first method of adjusting the inside temps. Can't remember which direction moves the temps up or down...you can also disconnect this thermistor and the fridge should default to coldest setting possible where just about everything in the freezer and fridge would freeze. If you do this, and it gets really cold, the fridge is working ok. Be aware, you probably will never get hard ice cream with this unit...
If fridge shows to be able to get real cold, then the next area to check is the venting of heat away from the coils--this is a drawback to slide-located fridges, the top-vented ones are much better at natural air movement due to convection currents. When the air has to make a right-angle turn to get out the upper vent, it slows down the movement and gets warmer in that area. Also, in the upper vent area there should be an auto-operating thermostat switch located at the upper left top of the coils ( a small gadget with 2 wires--one in, one out) that controls a vent fan that is most likely located down lower where it almost can't be seen because you can't get your head into the opening to look down. That fan (should be there, if not that is a lot of the problem) may be dead or the auto switch dead or both. I took the auto switch out of the circuit and am using a simple on/off switch located in the lower vent area, then used the same wiring to control 2 12-volt computer fans that I placed horizontally in the upper vent area that suck air from the inside area and exhaust thru the upper vent.
Between all this, my fridge has worked very well over the years--the fans I turn off when not on shore power unless parked in sunlight or warm areas.
Hope all of this helps you somewhat.
These fivers are life-long projects that will frustrate you at times, then provide lots of fun when you get it right.
If you like the trailer, and won't be doing much off-grid camping, a replacement with a residential fridge will fix your concerns.
Joe

[oldbird]

Thanks Joe, that's quite an explanation! Today I put some insulation in there like Cummins mentioned but didn't have a whole lot of insulation with me. Hitting the road again tomorrow but will get some more and a small fan of some sort. Thanks for the help! I had the Travel Supreme for eight years and had my share of problems so I know what your saying Joe. Once that Dometic refri quit and I could smell ammonia. Had to buy a complete unit and install it on my refri inside of the camper, that was fun.

[Stripit]

I purchased a regular 120 volt 5 inch small fan from Walmart, removed the base and was able to install it on the bottom of the vent opening to push hot air up and then bought another one and did the same thing only installed it on the top vent area to help push the hot air out. I ended up wiring them in unison and installing a manual on and off switch plugged into the 110 socket in that compartment. The on and off switch was accessible from the outside of the vent and when we were parked where it was hot, I then turned on the fans. They were quiet and really moved a lot of air. I don't think I could ever get ice cream to freeze solid, but my ice stayed frozen and it really helped when we were in those hot climates.

[wingnut60]

Stacey,
Nice idea, have read of several doing something like that. Also, just parking with the fridge side away from afternoon sun can be a big help, and if in the same place for a long time, a shade of some sort will also help.
We also have a wireless monitor that shows temps in the freezer and the fridge areas to let us know if we need to move the settings higher.
These 'movable homes' need a lot of help to overcome bad engineering and bad construction, no matter how much money you spend. I look at the new DRVs and then read about the issues, and just stay with my aging unit.
If I don't spend at least $500/year on fixing things, it's because I've gotten lazy.
Joe

[oldbird]

What kind of insulation are you guys using?

[Cummins12V98]

Regular wall insulation.

Mine was a single door Dometic and it cooled GREAT after the mods.

[oldbird]

OK, thanks!

[oldbird]

Now that it has hit 100 degrees my refrigerator can't keep up at all. I bought two fans and insulation. I installed the fans as recommended and insulated the top of the refrigerator. My question is, what else can be insulted? There is pipes all over and two fans in the middle? I don't know if this household insulation can be against the hot pipes so where else can insulation be added? Thanks

[wingnut60]

Glenn,
Just might be time for a mobile tech to check it out. I don't feel there is any need for extra insulation in the fridge backside, just good airflow over the coils. If nothing is doing what you need, have a tech check it out.
Joe

[oldbird]

Joe, Before leaving AZ I had it checked out by a DRV tech. He replaced the circuit board and said everything else was working OK. I have an appointment 8-1 at cross rv for the island mod but called yesterday and asked if I could get the residential refrigerator put in instead? She said yes so we might be doing that. I have the batteries and invertor already because we have an extra freezer.

[wingnut60]

That will certainly solve the problem--Cross does good work, have been there twice. He turned our peninsula into an island back in '10.

[Cummins12V98]

Glenn,
Just might be time for a mobile tech to check it out. I don't feel there is any need for extra insulation in the fridge backside, just good airflow over the coils. If nothing is doing what you need, have a tech check it out.
Joe

The insulation is to pack between and around the factory fans to create a better air flow instead of the cavitation that occurs when the fans turn on.

[oldbird]

The insulation is to pack between and around the factory fans to create a better air flow instead of the cavitation that occurs when the fans turn on.

What I did was insulate the top and one long stripe down the middle between the fans. I just thought anymore would block air flow from the factory fans and I don't know about getting the insulation near or on the hot pipes. Its been 100° here and its working a little better but the setting is on 5.

[wingnut60]

Glenn,
Have you worked with the thermistor position on the coils? Should be a slidable 'gadget' attached to the far right rib of the fridge interior coil bank--the aluminum fins where the frost forms at times.
Joe

[oldbird]

Yeah Joe, I remember you saying something about that and I looked and couldn't see anything. My wife loves to cook and has the refrigerator stuffed full so its not helping me find it. If its something that slides up and down on the far right rib then I don't see it.

[wingnut60]

I know it is tough having the fridge door open when it is not even cooling right, but there should be a white plastic sliding clip with 2 wires attached to it that go back in thru the rear wall. I think it should be there, if not??? The gadget in my fridge is about 3 inches long and white. The wires disappear behind the aluminum ribs. This is supposed to control how cold the fridge gets by monitoring the temp of the aluminum.
Don't know much more about it, but several have mentioned the device and how it works.
Joe

[oldbird]

I took food out and looked on the right side and couldn't find it. Oh well, things have cooled off a bit so I'll look some more later. I found my owners manuel RM1350 and I also couldn't find any info on that. Thanks Joe!

[wingnut60]

I was basing my ideas on my RM1292--the newer ones must be different. Hope you get it solved.

[oldbird]

Thanks, even though I got it to act better with just some insulation on the top and a strip down the middle I'm still seriously thinking of foregoing the island mod for a residential refrigerator. I'll have to make my decision soon.

[packfan]

I have 6 windows that are fogged up. They started failing while still under warranty. Several have been replaced, some of them more than once. I am well out of warranty now and not DRV or Hehr will do anything about it. I feel a recall should have been issued for these windows years ago. I guess DRV and Hehr don't care about customer service anymore. Anybody out there know of a place in South Dakota that can repair them? :mad::mad:

[wingnut60]

Welcome to the forum.
Went thru the same thing with my '05, but Hehr/Doubletree were still fixing them for free.
Have heard of a place in AZ, in AR, and in FL that does the work, but you have to go to their shops.
Why not talk to a local glass place and see if they can help--it isn't hard to remove the windows, except for the rear one.
Joe

[Pvsaint]

Welcome to the forum.
Went thru the same thing with my '05, but Hehr/Doubletree were still fixing them for free.
Have heard of a place in AZ, in AR, and in FL that does the work, but you have to go to their shops.
Why not talk to a local glass place and see if they can help--it isn't hard to remove the windows, except for the rear one.
Joe
Windows can be shipped to Suncoast in Hudson, FL for repairs.
-----------------------------------------------

Quoted from their website:
How it works



Decide which windows you are having issues with and would like our thermopane specialists to fix.
You can choose to either bring your whole RV or DROP-OFF/SHIP your windows to us!
Schedule an appointment by calling (727)868-2773!
When you get your windows fixed or replaced at our facility, you are welcome to stay the night in the comfort of your own RV at one of our full hook-up RV sites for FREE during the whole process.
Our specialists will take your existing foggy windows; then clean and rebuild them right on site!
Once all your windows have been completed, your windows will be re-installed and sealed!
You’re on your way to your next adventure!

[chevman]

My friend jack and I replaced his friends big glass that fogged. It was sent free but the owner had to do the work so we helped and it never leaked so it must have been a good installed.

labarn

[Cummins12V98]

Contact DRV, I did and they shipped me the proper units at their cost from HEHR.

[packfan]

Thanks wingnut. I never would have though of doing that. I contacted a glass place out here in Rapid City and they're coming out next week to look at them. He told me just because they're fogged up doesn't mean they aren't thermal pane anymore. Why can't the back window be done? I don't understand.

[anijet]

I've started doing my own. Several years ago we went to RV Fog Doctor in AR and I watched them do the disassembly, cleaning and reassembly. Recently I bought a repair kit from Dave Root RV Glass Repair. I started small and have done the bedroom and kitchen windows. They turned out as good as the pro job. When it cools off in fall I'll go after the rear and large door side slide windows. Not hard to do just takes time to get all sided of the glass clean and you can't rush the reassembly of the panes. Remove and install from the coach is the easy part.

[wingnut60]

packfan,
Rear window CAN be done, just a huge piece of glass and hard to handle, but no different than the others except for size. Be sure to have a couple of people handy to catch it when it comes out...
Also, there are spacers at the bottom of the windows to keep the glass from contacting the frame--probably will need to replace them on the rear window, very heavy glass.
Joe