Morryde IS compatible w/2013 SuperDuty Trailer Brake Cntlr?

[octanemaniac]

I've read a few threads about the trailer and trucks brake systems being incompatible. Does anyone know if the DRV's with Morryde IS are compatible with the 2013 Ford SuperDuty Trailer Brake Controller?

Thanks!

[hitchup]

Kodiak brakes will come with MorRyde IS. We opted for Dexter when we ordered our 2009. Only because at that time, the Kodiaks weren't always compatible with Ford.

[Titanguy]

Ford changed the integrated brake controller in 2012 and is now compatible.

[terry and jo]

You may need to research your Ford owner's manual. My understanding is that there is a "menu" to go into with regards to the controller that lets one choose the proper setting for electric-over-hydraulic brakes.

Terry

[The Spices]

We have the IS and a 2012 F450 - works great!

[WRWGN]

my 2018 Ford F-450 brake control is not working with the Electric over Hydrualic brakes in the new Mobile Suites. Worked fine with my old trailer which were electric brakes. Ford manual doesn't mention any incompatibilities. In fact in the trailer brake options, you can select the Brake Type for Electric or Electric over Hydraulic Brakes. When I step on the brake pedal to check lights all is ok. However when stepping on the brakes a 2nd time, you'll get a Trailer Disconnected message. Some time later you'll get Directional Faults for Left and Right Directionals. Then the directionals will blink fast. I contacted DRV and they told me it is a known issue and gave me the number for Custom Towing Solutions (manufacturer of the brake actuator). CTS told me they know of the issue, they have worked with Ford on the resolution and Ford has a Service Bulletin on how to repair. They said the IBC needs to be reset and then re-flashed. I'm a retired computer tech so in a way this makes sense, but I'm no mechanic nor engineer so I am reserving judgement.


I am stranded in Elkhart, IN and my truck spent 3 days in a local Ford dealer. They could not find a Service Bulletin and said the brake controller checks out fine with their tester (which only simulates electric braking). I am trying another Ford dealer that deals with commercial trucks also. See if they come up with anything.


I posted on the Ford Diesel forum and one member posted that he wired the center pin on the 7 way plug directly to the battery and it works fine. Me, I want Ford to fix it.


So I have a brand new trailer and can't go anywhere because the brakes don't work.


If Ford cannot fix it, I may just go with an aftermarket brake controller.

[Cummins12V98]

There should be no reason for the combined systems not working.

With the RV plugged to the truck slide the manual brake slide, does the actuator make noise in the RV? If not I would separate rigs add 12V to the actuator to confirm it is working.

[Mtntrek]

First off, I'd found smoke and mirrors around this odd topic yrs ago.
The DRVs are generally supplied with Morryde IS can be equipped with Kodiak hydraulic disk brakes. (EoH) Electric over Hydraulic Brake Controllers (HBC) can be manufactured by several companies for a variety of applications. Our DRV was supplied with a Hydrastar 1600 HBC.
This model required a HBC-CAM (Controller Adapter Module). This rather simple add-on allowing the trailer equipment to give the proper "feedback" to the (in our case) GM IBC. It has worked flawlessly. DRV did know about these issues surrounding some models & compatibility issues at the time, and supplied our CAM. It is mounted next to the HBC. Depending on your particular application this may be an option.
https://www.hydrastarusa.com/products/accessories/controller-adapter-module/
https://www.easternmarine.com/ford-chevy-adapter-for-brakerite-electric-hydraulic-actuators-4845900
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Hydrastar/HBA-CAM.html
Like you, having extended experience in a past tech life "flashing proms", etc. is great when you have the resources available, But. If the FOMOCO dealership is not equipped or knowledgeable enough? Plus their shop labor rates? Well you could be up a proverbial dooky creek.

FWIW, best of luck.

[WRWGN]

With the RV plugged to the truck slide the manual brake slide, does the actuator make noise in the RV? If not I would separate rigs add 12V to the actuator to confirm it is working.


This does work. First thing I do after hooking up and driving away is that I manually lock the brakes and press the accelerator slightly. My brakes do lock up.


Mtntrek - I read in the DRV ordering guide that this CAM is required if using a GM tow vehicle.



Speaking with Wendell (Custom Towing) he has talked with Ford and assisted them with the creation of the service bulletin. When I told him about the experience I had at the dealer he chuckled and told me I need to find a competent service department that will do it. I've since stopped at a local towing shop and they recommended a dealer which is not the one I went to. Downfall of being a visitor in a city I'm not familiar with. I'm taking the truck to them tomorrow morning.

[porkchop]

If you end up needing the HBC-CAM unit, I have one I will give you for the cost of shipping. Used it on my 2008 but don't need it for my 2016. Let me know

Bill

[wingnut60]

Interesting problem. My '10 450 worked fine with the '05 electric brakes; the same truck worked fine with the '15 EOH brakes; my '17 450 works correctly with the '15--go figure.

[porkchop]

Yea, my 08 did not have an option for elect over hyd. You can also wire a pair of old brake magnets in line to make it function. But that was a little funky. The CAM device works great.

Bill

[Red & Bev]

Our 2013 F 350 worked great, after we got the trailer brakes bled out real good! Our 2016 F 450 we now have also works great.

[Cummins12V98]

That is something EVERYONE should do is bleed the brakes or have someone do it. Also make sure the fluid level NEVER gets low!!!

[Dmcfarden]

I'm having a very similar issue with our 2017 Ford F350 DRW truck and our 2012 MS 36TKSB3. Didn't have the issue with our 2011 Ford, just this new one. The brakes and lights all work just fine, but I get the same disconnected message and annoying alarm chime. The turn signals blink fast and show alarms but the trailer lights are working fine, as do the brakes. I pulled a cargo trailer with electric brakes, etc. same type pigtail hook up with no problems at all, so I assumed I had wiring trouble on my trailer. I replaced the pig tail, tried regrounding the trailer ground wire, using a dedicated ground wire between the truck and trailer, even right to the battery, but still that "trailer disconnected" alarm and chime. I'm wondering now if I have the same problem as you. I have the Kodiak brakes with Centerpoint suspension.

[Red & Bev]

That is something EVERYONE should do is bleed the brakes or have someone do it. Also make sure the fluid level NEVER gets low!!!

So so true. When we picked up our new unit we virtually had no brakes. Dealer was worthless!! I called actuator manufacture and they told me very first thing to do was to get a good bleed job done starting at actuator and working back. They said none of the RV manufactures take the time to bleed correctly. Got all bled out at a good dealer and brakes work great now.

[Ultratravler]

Where does the fluid come from, are all the hydraulics tied together or is there a separate reservoir? Brakes work just fine, just wondering. Thanks.

Dave

[Red & Bev]

Where does the fluid come from, are all the hydraulics tied together or is there a separate reservoir? Brakes work just fine, just wondering. Thanks.

Dave

Trailer brake actuator and reservoir are all one unit located behind sliding doors in basement.

[Mtntrek]

Where does the fluid come from, are all the hydraulics tied together or is there a separate reservoir? Brakes work just fine, just wondering. Thanks.
FWIW: the brake system (hydraulic), and the slide, leveling, landing gear system[s] (also hydraulic) are totally isolated and not connected in any way.
Keep in mind there are other mfrs. of EoH brake controllers. They tend to operate on the same principles. Ours is equipped with this model and it's located as described in the equipment area.
Yes, all the brake caliper cylinders branch off of one common line from the HBA. It's basically a variable capacity 12VDC hydraulic pump / reservoir. As someone else noted it doesn't hold a large volume of fluid in relation to what in can pump un-restricted (bleeding). So keep it topped off while bleeding / purging.

[WRWGN]

All it needed was a $20 adapter on the trailer umbilical cord. Works perfect now.

[porthole]

SO far no issues with the connection with my 2011 F-350 and new trailer.

The new rig (2019) has 10K rated disc brakes - and we got to try them not 30 seconds of pulling on to the highway for our first trip.

They worked great and I can really feel a difference over the 8K brakes on our previous trialer.

I will still bleed them when we get back from our current runs, as with others, I do not trust that people who do not use these things and really care as much when they work on them

[Mtntrek]

All it needed was a $20 adapter on the trailer umbilical cord. Works perfect now.
Surely other readers would appreciate a URL to the $20 repair part.
Inquiring minds want to know.

[WRWGN]

This is the adapter that I have. It is connected to the trailers umbilical cord


https://www.curtmfg.com/part/57003

[Mtntrek]

Thanks! Interesting. Yeah, I understand some systems need a load resistor when equipped with low wattage LED lamps.

[Dmcfarden]

After almost a year of trying to track down the culprit to the connected, disconnected, turn signal lamp fault issue with my 2017 Ford F350 DRW and our 2012 DRV 36 TKSB3 trailer, the CURT 7-Pin adapter finally solved the problem. Thanks for posting WRWGN!

[dmorse68]

This is the adapter that I have. It is connected to the trailers umbilical cord


https://www.curtmfg.com/part/57003
Thank you SO MUCH WRWGN. I have that "Trailer Disconnected" issue and will purchase that pigtail and be done with that problem. Are you still having good luck with it? Is it still working for you?

-David

[Dmcfarden]

It worked for me on our last trip of 550 miles, with no disconnect issues at all. Previously I would get the disconnected signal, turn signal fault, problem every time is pressed the brakes or turn signal. The part CURT ELECTR 57003 was $23 on Amazon, free shipping.

[WRWGN]

Been working fine for me since it was put on. I did put an zip-tie on the adapter to insure it doesn't come apart from the umbilical cord (for those with the adapter, you'll know what I mean).



So far I've towed from Elkhart to Rapid City to Yellowstone and now in central Wyoming. Not sure of the mileage, but working flawlessly.

[dmorse68]

Fantastic! Thanks again. I will be order one. You’re the man! Enjoy you’re trip and God bless. Stay safe.