Residential fridge swap

[billr]

I know some folks have done this but I think most were working with the double size fridge installs. Since we have the smaller single fridge I thought this may be of help for some folks. Some have asked on our for sale post for the Dometic fridge.

We have a 2005 38RL3 MS and the new fridge clears the island and opens when slide is in. This can be an issue on other models or ones like ES with larger counters on islands. Double check this.

We installed a Whirlpool 10.7 cu ft from Home Depot. Part number WRT111SFAB Cost was $494 and I ordered it online and had delivered right to the RV park we were in free. Here is the link to Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpool-10-7-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-in-White-WRT111SFAW/203554368#csku=203554365
The whole job to remove and install took about 2 hours, not counting electrical mods and trim. The only changes to the trailer was to cut 3/4" off the top opening trim piece and 1/4" off the RH side opening trim. Fridge slide right in. The front of the fridge (not doors) is flush with opening. That leaves about 1-2" at back for air space for the coils. The doors are outside the opening and that way the doors hinge correctly and no issues. So the doors do stick out. But it looks normal for this type of fridge as it would be done like this in a residential install. Just not flush like the original we are used to. We already don't notice it.

I did have to use some wood to support the bottom because the front feet are not in line across. One would be out in limbo. So I removed the feet and supported the entire bottom with wood. No issue. I secured the rear to the base and added brackets to the rear top corners to above. Added shims to square and secure. No movement. Its solid.

Picked up some oak trim pieces at HD and stained and installed on RH side and bottom. If I could have found Maple it would be better but I am satisfied with this.

To stop items inside from moving around during travel, we add some spring loaded bars from CW across shelves. Also made up some nylon straps with snaps to keep doors from opening just in case. They remove while set up.

I picked up a Zantrex 1000watt true sine wave inverter at CW on closeout sale for $184. Reg $400!! Added a $50 auto transfer switch also Zantrex and remote switch for inverter. So now when we are off shore power and I switch on the inverter, the transfer switch changes over the fridge to inverter. When shore power is available again, it goes back to shore. We traveled 4 hrs the other day and the battery levels remained same as when we left. 12.7V We could leave the fridge off as well as it holds the temps very well. I did run a new circuit to the fridge in the slide from the transfer switch in the basement (we bit tricky job....) and from panel to switch. This way it is the only thing powered by this inverter. I have a second 1000watt inverter for the entertainment area for boondock. For eve TV time. A third 400watt one in the bedroom for late night and AM TV. So genny time is lower and we are quiet! We manage fine boondocking with this setup on 2 6V batts, now with the fridge we will add 2 more 6V batts for boon docking. If someone never boondocks, then 2 batts would be fine.

I like to use a few smaller inverters instead of a large one as the idle draw is next to nothing so way less draw on the batts. And we can have on just the one we need also reducing the draw.

Here is a link to the pics https://picasaweb.google.com/112516511238375316586/ResidentialFridgeInstall02

[Stripit]

Hey B & J,

The fridge install sounds like a great renovation. The instant our Dometic starts arguing....it's gonna be history. That's why we've very interested in your project.

Your links didn't work. I found the fridge fridge (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpool-10-7-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-in-Black-WRT111SFAB/203554355?N=c3o6Z4l4Z12l8#.UVjFLJPkt5c[/url)
But can't get to your photos.

[billr]

Hey B & J,

The fridge install sounds like a great renovation. The instant our Dometic starts arguing....it's gonna be history. That's why we've very interested in your project.

Your links didn't work. I found the fridge fridge (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpool-10-7-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-in-Black-WRT111SFAB/203554355?N=c3o6Z4l4Z12l8#.UVjFLJPkt5c[/url)
But can't get to your photos.

Thanks Stacey,

I updated the links. They should work now. Yes, that is the fridge. There are some more that are very close in size and should also work, but this one suited us and it was available very quickly with free delivery. I see it has a higher price now, but they do match. Lowes has the same one on line, but del was 2 weeks. They have a $50 rebate.

If you change it out you will not regret it. No comparing the size at all. No more worries when the old one will quit. Or catch on fire! hum...

We have been traveling and the little inverter keeps it going with no issue, Batt voltage holds the same at arrival as when we depart. The truck keeps up with the usage. I was not expecting that, but was nice to see. Having added an auto transfer switch makes it simple to use. Just had to run a separate circuit.

Bill

[Gemstone]

Thanks for posting Bill...

Regards
Gemstone

[golf_bears]

Bill,

Do you have an electrical schematic for the transfer switch and the inverters?

Thanks

[billr]

Bill,

Do you have an electrical schematic for the transfer switch and the inverters?

Thanks

No Schematic. It is pretty simple set up though.

The transfer switch is a 15amp Zantrex unit that is made to work with the type inverter I have from Zantrex. Called a Pro Watt 1000 True sine wave. It is easy to connect in a junction box. It plugs right into the inverter with a proper 15amp plug on one wire.

You run a power feed right from the main power panel to one line from the transfer switch. This supplies shore power to the switch when available.

I installed a new outlet and wire in the fridge area in the slideout near where the original one is. This is so it is the only thing on the inverter. I ran this wire to the junction box by the transfer switch (which is right near the inverter) and it is connected to the other wire from the transfer switch. Now when there is no shore power available, the power is used from the inverter if it is turned on. I have a remote (wired) switch inside to turn the inverter on and off.

With this setup, the fridge is powered by shore power anytime it is available by priority in the switch. Then when shore power is off, the switch looks to the inverter.

The switch wires are all marked very clearly. Hook up is standard house wiring methods.

I did add a second outlet in kitchen on fridge side wall that is on the same circuit. I have a led night light plugged in to readily see the power for the fridge is on at a glance. This also gives me a place to power small items like chargers etc when boondock.

Hope that helped?

Bill

[PNW_Steve]

I know some folks have done this but I think most were working with the double size fridge installs. Since we have the smaller single fridge I thought this may be of help for some folks. Some have asked on our for sale post for the Dometic fridge.

We have a 2005 38RL3 MS and the new fridge clears the island and opens when slide is in. This can be an issue on other models or ones like ES with larger counters on islands. Double check this.

We installed a Whirlpool 10.7 cu ft from Home Depot. Part number WRT111SFAB Cost was $494 and I ordered it online and had delivered right to the RV park we were in free. Here is the link to Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpool-10-7-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-in-White-WRT111SFAW/203554368#csku=203554365
The whole job to remove and install took about 2 hours, not counting electrical mods and trim. The only changes to the trailer was to cut 3/4" off the top opening trim piece and 1/4" off the RH side opening trim. Fridge slide right in. The front of the fridge (not doors) is flush with opening. That leaves about 1-2" at back for air space for the coils. The doors are outside the opening and that way the doors hinge correctly and no issues. So the doors do stick out. But it looks normal for this type of fridge as it would be done like this in a residential install. Just not flush like the original we are used to. We already don't notice it.

I did have to use some wood to support the bottom because the front feet are not in line across. One would be out in limbo. So I removed the feet and supported the entire bottom with wood. No issue. I secured the rear to the base and added brackets to the rear top corners to above. Added shims to square and secure. No movement. Its solid.

Picked up some oak trim pieces at HD and stained and installed on RH side and bottom. If I could have found Maple it would be better but I am satisfied with this.

To stop items inside from moving around during travel, we add some spring loaded bars from CW across shelves. Also made up some nylon straps with snaps to keep doors from opening just in case. They remove while set up.

I picked up a Zantrex 1000watt true sine wave inverter at CW on closeout sale for $184. Reg $400!! Added a $50 auto transfer switch also Zantrex and remote switch for inverter. So now when we are off shore power and I switch on the inverter, the transfer switch changes over the fridge to inverter. When shore power is available again, it goes back to shore. We traveled 4 hrs the other day and the battery levels remained same as when we left. 12.7V We could leave the fridge off as well as it holds the temps very well. I did run a new circuit to the fridge in the slide from the transfer switch in the basement (we bit tricky job....) and from panel to switch. This way it is the only thing powered by this inverter. I have a second 1000watt inverter for the entertainment area for boondock. For eve TV time. A third 400watt one in the bedroom for late night and AM TV. So genny time is lower and we are quiet! We manage fine boondocking with this setup on 2 6V batts, now with the fridge we will add 2 more 6V batts for boon docking. If someone never boondocks, then 2 batts would be fine.

I like to use a few smaller inverters instead of a large one as the idle draw is next to nothing so way less draw on the batts. And we can have on just the one we need also reducing the draw.

Here is a link to the pics https://picasaweb.google.com/112516511238375316586/ResidentialFridgeInstall02

Hello Bill,

I know this thread is a bit old. I hope you don't mind me resurrecting it.

I am looking at that same fridge for my old 5er. The fridge is the best fit I have found so far but I am running in circles when it comes to inverter selection and solar/battery sizing.

Is your inverter the Xantrex ProWatt SW1000?
How has it worked out for you long term?
Have you been able to measure actual startup & run current on the fridge?
Overall refrigerator power consumption?

Thank you for your post and I hope to hear back.

Steve

[billr]

Steve,

I don't remember the exact spec on the inverter but it was a discontinued model. I got a heck of a deal on them. I also run another for the entertainment area.

It is a 1000 watt Pure Sine Wave. PSW is advisable for most elec app. I had a Mod sine wave but the TV barked at it.

The one for the fridge is dedicated to that circuit. I did run a second outlet off it for charging devices while boon docking and when on shore power it is also available.

The sizing is perfect for the fridge, anything less can struggle (a friend tried that with same fridge, had to go to the 1000) With a god quality smaller sized inverter the residual draw when not demanded is very low to near zero when on. This is why I chose to go with the smaller inverters as opposed to a large 3000watt whole trailer type setup. We even have a 300watt set up for the bedroom TV. It also serves our printer and charging devices, wifi setup etc. We turn it on as needed.

I have not measured the usage. We run on 4 6V batts and find no issues boon docking for days with normal usage of the trailer and charge using a Honda 2000 or two, about 2 hrs a day. We also run second inverter in the AM and PM for TV etc. Furnace at night as req.

When we drive, the small amount the truck charges the bats keeps the bats at the same level as when we departed in the AM after a full day on the road with fridge on.

We are very happy with this setup. No issues at all.

Bill

[PNW_Steve]

Thanks Bill,

The setup I am working towards is very similar. Same fridge, 4 golf cart batteries and a Honda 3000. I plan on suplamental solar in addition.

Did you need to make and mods to accommodate cooling/circulation for the new fridge?

Thanks again.

Steve

[billr]

I did not change anything the first year, just left the back area open to outside air though the original fridge vents. No real issues.

After talking with some RV reps at the Tampa show last year and noticing most all units with factory residential fridges installed have no outside vents at all, just open around the inside in some way to allow inside air to circulate. Most of the larger fridges even have a fan on the rear to draw the air. Our fridge does not have a fan.

These fridges are designed to run at room temps. So exposing the rear area to outside temps from sub zero to plus 90 is really not great.

So, I closed off the rear vent areas (we have two) with solid foam insulation and sealed the edges with spray foam then installed the vent covers. Leaving the sides, top and bottom of the fridge open for air flow.

I added 5 ea 2" holes in the top of the trim valance (which is not seen from floor level) and also made several holes inside of drawer cupboard beside the draws to allow air to enter from there. Hidden as its in the drawer area.

With this, the air drawn from inside the cupboard area under the slide in front and through the holes in the side and in the rear past the fridge by convection and out through the top front.

I did notice a change in temps being more stable and no fluctuation with outside temps. Even though before they were not an issue. I thought this would be better.

Bill

[tcrossan]

I am planning this exact swap in my 5th wheel.
Questions are:
How many amp hours of battery did you use?
How did the wiring to the truck charging provisions happen? are all the batteries connected in the same circuit as the house batteries?

Thanks for your help. The article is great especially since I am buying that same refrigerator.

[wingnut60]

Bill,
Thank you for reposting your information--I have been guilty of mentioning your username whenever the subject comes up. Hope I haven't caused you too much inconvenience.
I am beginning to gather data about replacing my Dometic 12cuft double-door, and your experience will be very helpful.
Joe

[billr]

I am planning this exact swap in my 5th wheel.
Questions are:
How many amp hours of battery did you use?
How did the wiring to the truck charging provisions happen? are all the batteries connected in the same circuit as the house batteries?

Thanks for your help. The article is great especially since I am buying that same refrigerator.

Yes the truck does supply a small charge to the trailer batts when driving but its low due to length of wire and size. Like a 14ga. Connected through the normal trailer plug like any other trailer to tow vehicle. Nothing special. But even that is enough to keep the batts at the same level of charge as when we departed for a 8hr day. That is running the 1000wt inverter for the fridge. Not opening the fridge normally. Although we can anytime we want. The fridge just doesn't run that much. Some folks that never dry camp at all and drive under say 8-9hrs a day would not even need an inverter at all. That eliminates a lot of work wiring and cost. Just keep the fridge closed when no power. A test was done by DRV at the factory outside in a closed up trailer, fridge started cold, power off, at 90* F outside all day for 8rs and they lost very little temp in fridge.

Because we sometimes dry camp, I added 2 more 6V batts so we could manage running on batts from late afternoon until next am running inverter for fridge, another inverter for TV area (same size) and even another 300W later at nt and in AM for bedroom TV. Allowing to run other items on 12V and furnace as req. We manage just fine. When we have ant when we watched TV etc , fridge on inverter, and furnace on and off all night we would be at 70% batt level in AM before I fired up the Hondas. I have a Tri Metric battery meter monitor. Tells the whole story. Neat tool.

I have 4 230 amp 6V batts I got from Sams club. The 2 1000Wt inverters I have are good pure sine wave and they draw next to nothing when there is no load. Some inverters have a heavy draw static and just to run themselves. I do leave the fridge inverter on anytime we are not on shore power. I have two auto changeover relays to switch between shore and inverter on their own with priority to shore power.

If we were not going to dry camp I would have stayed with the 2 6v batts. We could manage just fine with the fridge and inverter when driving and any other time needed. Just overnight and needing furnace for dry camping drove me to get 4 batts.

Bill