Track Lights

[wwc]

Ok this question has been discussed on this forum many many times and I think I have even asked this question before. However in my rapidly declining brain I cannot remember the suggestions.
I have the 2006 Mobile Suite with the l2 volt kitchen track lights. I am having trouble again with the switch getting hot. Now a couple of years ago, I replaced the switch, but not sure that helped a lot. I also remember one thing that some suggested was to make sure the connections at the switch were tight and mine are.
I think I am still using the 50 watt halogen bulbs, so would it help this problem if I drop down and use the 35 watt bulbs, assuming they still make them?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
wwc

[Motor31]

That would probably be a good idea. It would reduce the load on the switch. FWIW I had a separate switch installed for the track lights. Frankly in the last 7 years of ownership I have only used them to test the circuit. We never use them at all to light the kitchen. To me they were a waste of time / money to put them in the unit. The only spot lights we do use are the bedroom reading lights.

[Gemstone]

I have no idea whether this is the replacement for the offending 50W bulb or not, but with the proliferation of LED's in today's marketplace, there has to be an exact replacement out there somewhere....

7 watt LED (http://www.ledglobalsupply.com/mr16-led-bulbs/7-watt-alt-mr16-led-light-bulb-warm-white-12v/?gclid=CM-Fwv6O9LICFWWCQgodrFIAYQ).

Anyone try these ?

Regards
Gemstone

[wwc]

Hi Gemstone,
Thanks for the information on the LED lights. Looks like that might be a good solution. However I would like to hear your thoughts on the light output of these lights. I noticed that the Kelin(color temperature)which I understand is important factor in light output is the same as the 50watt halogen. However the lumens is listed at l60, where the 50 watt is listed around 800.
Do you feel that these lights would put out enough light? It seems like this would cure the hot switch situation.
wwc

[BobW]

I have no idea whether this is the replacement for the offending 50W bulb or not, but with the proliferation of LED's in today's marketplace, there has to be an exact replacement out there somewhere....

7 watt LED (http://www.ledglobalsupply.com/mr16-led-bulbs/7-watt-alt-mr16-led-light-bulb-warm-white-12v/?gclid=CM-Fwv6O9LICFWWCQgodrFIAYQ).

Anyone try these ?


These are only 150 lumens. Look at ebay and check out item 300788468063 these are 350 lumens

[wwc]

Thanks Bob, I just found some 9 watt on the same site that Gemstone sent me that has 4l0 lumens. I think I am going to try those. I tried 35 watt Halogen, but switch still getting really hot, so I removed one light and now using two lights instead of three and switch seems to be ok now. My only concern with the LED lights is that is has a narrower beam than the Halogen. With that being said, I am going to try them. The confusing thing about this whole ordeal is that my switch has not always gotten hot. If my memory serves me right, it has only happened a few times and I am not sure why. Anyway this time seems to be the worst, as touching the switch will nearly burn you and the plastic guards on the wire are black from being so hot.
Thanks to all who have offered suggestions.
wwc

[wingnut60]

I replaced ALL halogen lights in trailer with LEDs--could not be happier. But I got the cool white, not the warm white. Warm white more approximates the output of the halogens, we just happen to like the bluer hue of the cool white. But I also did not have a problem with hot switch. I think I did replace the original style of wall switch with house switch in several places due to arcing/heat.
Joe

[RickandJanice]

Had same issue with same switch a couple of year into owing our rig. Found the actual wire crimp on the connectors at the switch were loose. Connectors fit tight on the switch but the loose crimp was causing too much resistance and the switch got hot. After tightening the crimp, have not had any other issues.

[wingnut60]

Might need to mention, at least on these older units, the switches are not wired like a normal house switch--the wires are pushed into a metal slot that cuts the insulation and make contact--no screws involved. This is where a lot of the movement happens and arcing occurs and heating results. Wouldn't hurt to look inside at the wall switch to the track lights.
Joe

[jas24]

You might also want to check the connections at the breaker panel to make sure they are tight.

I don't think changing bulbs is going to fix your problem with the switch getting hot.

Good Luck figuring out what it is.......

[Motorcycle Jack]

The reason your switch is getting hot is because the track lighting is drawing too much current. Going from 50 watts or bulbs that draw 4 Amps to 35 watts or 3 Amps is not much of a change - 6 bulbs would mean only 6 Amps difference. What I suspect is that the track to light connection is dirty - since you've never cleaned it in 7 years. I would take the track down, clean the electric slide portion with some emery paper and also the slide contact from the light. Dirt or corrosion on these can change the resistance by hundreds of ohms and increase current draw but 10 -15 Amps or more.

[Gemstone]

"It seems like this would cure the hot switch situation"....

My guess is that going from 150 watts to 27 watts will take care of the heat generated from the higher current draw. Let us know how they work out.

Regards
Gemstone

[Motor31]

I suppose it is possible that the switch might also be bad, with dirty contacts itself. I'm just tossing that out in case it still gets hot after lowering the amp load. You could easily test it by simply pulling one of the bulbs and see if the switch still gets hot.

[Frankjohnson]

Ok this question has been discussed on this forum many many times and I think I have even asked this question before. However in my rapidly declining brain I cannot remember the suggestions.
I have the 2006 Mobile Suite with the l2 volt kitchen track Peimar led (http://www.niceledlights.com). I am having trouble again with the switch getting hot. Now a couple of years ago, I replaced the switch, but not sure that helped a lot. I also remember one thing that some suggested was to make sure the connections at the switch were tight and mine are.
I think I am still using the 50 watt halogen bulbs, so would it help this problem if I drop down and use the 35 watt bulbs, assuming they still make them?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
wwc

You must use led lights for your track lights system

[wingnut60]

Not sure 'must' is the right word...altho it sure solved my heat problems with that part of the trailer.
Joe

[Jack in Alaska]

So after reading all of the above it is not obvious what bulb to use to replace the track light bulbs. THey are way too bright and way too hot when using them.
What type, model no., size, vendor to obtain 3 to replace the halogens.???

[01zeosix]

Hi,

Not sure if you got a respose, or not. I replaced the halogens in my track light(s) over the center island with:

GE 4 watt (15W) MR16 Bright White Indoor LED(s)

I bought them from the "Big Box" store #48 races for here (http://low.es/UtOk3y)

They just "twist" into the fixtures. Run a LOT cooler.

Hope this helps. Still luvin' my "Suh-Weet"[/url]

[Jack in Alaska]

01zeosix ,

Thanks for the info. Will go buy some tomorrow.

Jack

[Motor31]

How much did the bulb cost?

[Jack in Alaska]

Motor31,

The web price at $22.97 each at Lowes.
I will check here in Casa Grande, Az. today.

Jack

[01zeosix]

Expensive......around Twenty Bucks each.

[Jack in Alaska]

Does the new style bulb fit in the track and then turn to lock it in.
You do not use the adjustable set up is that correct???

[01zeosix]

Jack,

The information given was for a replacement LED bulb, not the entire fixture.

The bulb does, indeed, "twist" into the fixture socket and is locked in place. The fixture, also, "twists" into the track. In fact, it might be easier for you to remove the fixture to replace the bulb

To remove the old halogen, turn a qtr or so counter clockwise. This will release the bulb. Reverse the procedure for the new LED.

[Jack in Alaska]

So here is the latest............... I went to Lowes here in Az. They had a bayonet type plug in a LED bulb(twin pins) . I bought one to give it a try. It is a direct replacement for the hot halogen bulb. It took about 45 secs. to install. It puts out more light than the halogen bulb and I will go back tomorrow and buy two more. Cost is $21.40 ea.

Bulb is a: Utiliteck Pro 12V MR16 GU 5.3 indoor reflector. Brightness is 325 lumens and uses 7 watts.

It gives off absolutely no heat but is as bright or brighter than the halogen. My problem is solved for the track light.

Thanks for your info.

Jack

[01zeosix]

Glad it worked out for you. Liked mine so much, I added another fixture and aimed it towards the pantry area. I like the extra lighting there.

[hitchup]

Little off track - :)

We have the 3 hanging pendant lights over our island. Replaced the standard bulbs with LED's. Took us twice to get the right ones. The first set (different style) from Superbright LED's only gave out low light and began to flicker and strobe. But the newer ones, Ming's 921 Green Long Life 250 Lumens LED Bulb, from Dyers RV Parts are holding up well.

Finally found some LED bayonet replacement bulbs for the reading lights over the bed and under living room recliners/couch. I have been searching for well over a year and finally found these on Amazon. There have been a few that were twice as much. So far after a few weeks, they are performing well. No heat and adequate light. So far I've only replaced 4.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CGN2Z2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

[Motor31]

Do those provide the same amount of light as the originals in the reading lamps?

[hitchup]

Do those provide the same amount of light as the originals in the reading lamps?

Not sure Mike. Don't have a way to check. But in my estimation, is slightly lower output. But for me it means it's also less glare on a page.

[Motor31]

If it's pretty close that would be OK. We tend to go through bulbs in the bedroom reading lamps regularly. I might have to replace an entire lamp if I can't get the last burn out out of the fitting. Seems to be stuck.

[01zeosix]

Maybe I just need a life but, I have been replacing ALL of my MS bulbs with LED bulbs. I boondock a lot and try to squeeze everything I can from my battery bank. I started with a complete inventory of what needed to be replaced and submitted my list to a company here in my home state that specializes in marine fixtures and products.

My list was (your mileage may vary):

C912 - 6 ea.
C921 - 6 ea.
1139F - 6 ea.
921 (18W) - 7 ea.
RV G4 "Small Puck" - 12 ea.
RV G4 "Large Puck" - 8 ea.
18" Fluorescent (4 Fixtures 2 ea.) - 8 Bulbs
12" Fluorescent (1 Fixture 2 ea.) - 2 Bulbs

I also added 5 Dimmers.

If I am "Hijacking" this thread, please feel free to move it, Mr. Moderator. Just never saw a list anywhere else. Hoping this will help.

Still luvin' my "Suh-Weet".

[ldevries]

Has anyone found a Led replacement halogen bulb for the GE Convection/microwave