Sealand Toilet leak at vacuum breaker

[Gulfstream650]

Hello to all,

Does anyone have any experience with the "vacuum breaker" valve located in the back and near the top of the Dometic Sealand toilet? Mine is leaking a few drops of water with every flush. We were recently at a campground in MA that had fairly high water pressure (how many PSI?, I'm not sure) and I wonder if that had anything to do with the problem? The valves can be replaced for what I consider too high of a price https://www.americanrvcompany.com/Dometic-Sealand-385230335-Traveler-Lite-Vacuum-Breaker-Kit-wSpray-Camper-Trailer-RV_p_2041.html . So, I was curious if anyone else has had to deal with this valve and are there alternative ideas/fixes that would preclude overpaying for a piece of plastic? Just to be clear, I don't mind paying the freight when necessary, but I LOVE finding alternative ideas/fixes that I can implement on my own without the need to "bend over" to pay for certain items. One example that comes rushing to mind is printer ink. There is nothing I love more than refilling my Canon ink cartridges for about $0.50 vs. many (I'm not sure how many but, a lot!) dollars! Sorry for the digression.

If you are a member on the DRV forum, you may see this exact post over there as soon as I am able to post it there.

THANKS,
Rick

Sorry, the DRV forum is actually suitesowners.com/forums. :D

[wingnut60]

Rick,

Welcome to 5thwheelforums. What trailer do you have?

I feel your pain about paying for overpriced parts, but short of cleaning everything real good and maybe using some plumbers grease, you may be stuck.

Joe

[Stripit]

Well that exact part failed on me about 3 years ago and I was forced to buy the correct part so it would fit in the limited space you have to work with. I removed the old one and tried using some plastic glue to try to seal it back up, but it failed not long after so I just paid the big bucks and fixed it correctly.

[golf_bears]

I recently fixed a dripping/leaking faucet at home by using a two part epoxy glue. Couldn't get the assembly apart. Was designed that way so you would have to buy a new one, planned obsolescence. Those engineers are pretty creative. So far so good. I'm like you, didn't want to spring $150 for a new faucet. You may want to try the epoxy approach.

[Gulfstream650]

Thanks, for the responses! We are presently traveling in CT and so I will wait a week or so until we get home to NC to do the repair. The cleaning everything approach sounds like the correct first thing to do and then the epoxy approach might be a good idea. We will see. My unit is a 2008 Mobile Suites 36TK3. We love the unit but there are a bunch of little things that are constantly needing attention. Thanks Again to all!

Rick

[Dick D]

I used the 2 part Epoxy on a hair line crack in mine a couple of years ago. Its still holding. I did widen the crack just a little to let it seep in, and then let it dry overnight.
You might want to think about a Watts whole house water pressure regulator before you blow out one of the bigger lines and do some real damage. I wouldn't turn my water on without one. The little inline ones are a waste of money.

[Motor31]

I will second the use of a water regulator. I bought mine from a hardware store. It is a standard residential regulator capable of flowing more than 6 GPM and can be adjusted to the pressure you want. It has a secondary advantage of being rebuild able as well. It didn't take much to set it up with hose style fittings. To set the pressure I use a regular water pressure gauge I bought at the hardware store that already had a hose fitting on it.

Every place we set up, I check the pressure first and if it is over 50 PSI I use the regulator on the hose leading to the rig. We have been at more than a couple places where the pressure was over 100 PSI.

[BlueSkyRanch]

Rick, I have the same problem and was waiting until I get back to Florida before tearing it apart. I too welcome some suggestions.

[Gulfstream650]

I have never had any problem with too much pressure before but I guess we are not immune such problems. My thinking has always been that since we have pex plumbing in the Suites, that we should not have to worry about pressure problems as this plumbing is basically the same as residential plumbing and pex is supposed to the best, or so I'm told. BUT, this leak is coming not from the pex but from something attached to it and not necessarily of the same pressure containing ability (cheap plastic crap) therefore, I see an adjustable pressure regulator in my future.

Thanks to all,
Rick

[RGordon]

Ours did the same split routine and found it is made out of pvc piping material. I used just regular pvc cement and like others with the epoxy, spread the crack and let the cement in and you will not have any more issues. Little or no cost if you have the pvc cement. The vacuum breaker valve body forms cracks after time because of the hand sprayer being worked back and forth when cleaning, which is attached to the breaker.

[bstark]

You may also find that the little 'poppit' valve intended to let air in and "break' the vacume is crudded up preventing it from seating correctly.

I bought a new valve and took the other apart and cleaned it up for a spare.

[Annadia]

Feeling ashamed to ask, but where is located the vacuum breaker in a 2004 36 TK3
Thanks for the help

[Stripit]

Feeling ashamed to ask, but where is located the vacuum breaker in a 2004 36 TK3
Thanks for the help
I don't have the trailer any longer, but it was at the rear of the toilet mounted near the wall. When mine cracked it would spray water out the crack when the foot pedal was depressed or lifted. Very easy to replace.

[Annadia]

Thanks again Stripit, I'll verify
Happy New Year to you