View Full Version : Water tank noise
Every time we use the hot water, we get this hissing sound. No mater if we are on gas or electric, city of house water. Called Surband and they don't know. Did find calicum deposits, but cleaning it out didn't help. [/code]
rotaxman
02-08-2011, 03:43 PM
Bob,
I would suspect that it is the check valve on the back of the water heater making the noise. Pretty easy fix if that's it.
As always good camping
Joyce and Jerry
I thought it was that also, but Surburban said there is no check valve. It is no easy to get at if there is one. I think I need to pull the tank out.
rotaxman
02-08-2011, 07:25 PM
Bob,
I know that my 06 had a check valve I had to change it out. I don't know about my 09. I'm pretty sure that it has the same water heater as my 06 had.
You can see it from the basement storage area on the street side as I recall it had plastic fittings on it that you could reach with a little stretching. I used an open end wrench. Like you say its a little hard to reach but it can be done.
You shouldn't have to take the tank out to make the change.
As far as Surburban not knowing anything about a valve being installed it could be something that the dummies at DRV installed on the tank. You know how DRV is they don't have much talent in the engineering department. They may of decided in their infinite wisdom to install just one more thing to irritate customers.
Hope you resolve your problem with out to much trouble.
As always good camping
Joyce and Jerry
jas24
02-09-2011, 06:11 AM
Bob,
Jerry is correct about there being a check valve on the water heater.
Mine was doing the same as yours and it is a reach to take it out, but it can be done.
You can take it out and take the insides of it out and put it back in or buy a new one, it's up to you.
Good Luck
I had the same trouble too.
One of these will fix the problem.
You need one with male and male, or you will have to use a 1/2" connector on the one with male and female ends.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-Back-Flow-Preventer-RV-Camper-Trailer-/220268731418?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Acc essories&hash=item33490a1c1a
Thanks Guys. I'll dig into it next camp site friday.
Well It's not that easy. I need to pull the tank out in the next two days. i can't get a grip on the fitting to remove it without damaging it. A wrench won't budge it.
Motor31
02-12-2011, 09:53 AM
Given your need to remove it, would it be better just to live with the noise? That might be a better option than possibly damaging the tank and having to replace it if the fittings are really locked in.
Gemstone
02-12-2011, 06:30 PM
"Given your need to remove it, would it be better just to live with the noise? That might be a better option than possibly damaging the tank and having to replace it"....
That's a $600 water heater Bob.....on sale! Replaced ours last year.
Regards
Gemstone
I have replaced my hot water check valve twice, going thru the lower door in the back of the cupbord behind the shower. I did not have to pull out the water heater.
Today it comes out. If I can't remove the valve, I'll drill out the guts from the check valve. Same as putting in a plane fitting. I can't live with it. My wife tells me about it every day. Also at some point the valve will clog up completely. I've found white chunks of calcium or what ever in the valve area. [/u]
Squirt some type of penitrating oil on it let it sit untill tomorrow, then try to break it loose. Should beable to fix without removing heater. Let us know how you make out. Good luck!!!!!!!!
rotaxman
02-13-2011, 06:16 PM
Bob,
You might try a product called PB Blaster it is the best penetrating oil that I have ever used. I never used to believe in that kinda stuff but when I was putting the Banks power system on my 95 F 350 was when I found out about it.
The truck has a 460 gas motor and they are known for having extreme exhaust temps which work harden the exhaust manifold bolts. After breaking off two of them I was advised of PB Blaster which I put on the bolts and let set for a day then reapplied again and waited another 3 hours and the rest of the bolts came out without any trouble what so ever. So since then I have been sold on PB Blaster. You can get it at Oreilly auto parts if you have one around where you are. I would suspect that other auto parts stores would also carry it.
You might give it a try and see if it works.
Good luck on whatever route you go.
As always good camping.
Jerry
Motor31
02-16-2011, 09:56 AM
Bob, how did the job go?
it was a bitch. I rounded off the brass fitting and resorted to the good old vise grip. That loosened it. I took it out and found that the valve was on a slant. I pulled it out with a needle nose and found there was a 3/8 inch hole, so I didn't half to drill out anything. back in and it worked fine.
Am I reading your post correctly - Are you saying you took out the center of your check valve and then replaced it?????????
I just took the guts out. It works great without it. If I replace it I'll put the new one where the line connects to the manifold.
Motor31
02-19-2011, 10:37 AM
You do know that without the check valve function, your water heater is trying to heat the water in the inflow lines as well as what is in the heater. It makes the water system in your rig a giant heat sink and will cause the water heater to operate far more frequently as the water in the line bleeds off heat into the lines.
Rather than just leaving it an open line is it possible to put a second check valve in line with the original so you do not have to remove the now non functioning valve? You may have to get a plumbing nipple for the connection to allow them to fit together then replace the inflow line just a bit farther back.
Rather than just leaving it an open line is it possible to put a second check valve in line with the original so you do not have to remove the now non functioning valve? You may have to get a plumbing nipple for the connection to allow them to fit together then replace the inflow line just a bit farther back.
That's the plan. I'll get a new one and place it where the water line enters the manifold.
bstark
02-21-2011, 07:28 AM
The biggest reason they install those things (most RV builders) is to prevent the pressurization of the entire incoming cold water system. Pressure can now back up the incoming line and add pressure to your entire cold water side. Maintaining a "head" of air in the hot water tank by periodically draining water out of it and manually opening the "pressure relief" valve to allow the vacuum created by draining water to pull some air into the tank to re-create that "head" will help reduce the back-up of pressure into the cold lines without that check valve. A PITA but doable.
Draining that tank is something you should be doing on a periodic basis anyway to prevent build-up of calcium/lime and to check the staus of your anode rod. It goes very quickly if once you remove the anode rod you stand well to the side and lift that little lever on the pressure relief valve allowing air into the tank.
You'll be surprised at the chunks that come out of there.
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