Hydraulic Problem

[bettyj]

We are stuck in Guntersville Alabama with a hydraulic problem. Bankston in Huntsville is not helping. We have someone else that DRV said to call and we expect them to show up soon. We tried to hook up and leave today for home, but the landing gears are acting funny every time we pull slides in or out. We are stuck here until someone comes to help.

We were advised by DRV that a dealership in Memphis gives very good service. We may have to go there if we cannot get things fixed here. That is if we can get on the road with the given situation.
Does anyone have any experience with D&N RV in Memphis?

[billr]

Try to describe your exact problem a bit more. Maybe someone here can offer some help to get you going.

Bill

[wingnut60]

A lot of problems can be traced to low fluid in hydraulic resevoir (use automatic transmission fluid to fill) and/or air in lines from low fluid level.
This is the first item to verify. I believe the resevoir is fullest when large slides are in and bedroom is out; conversely, the level is lowest when the large slides are out, bedroom is in--may be different in later models, but that is the way my '05 is.
You can also call Lippert for some help, they probably made the system.
Joe

[RGordon]

I has been posted on this forum that D&N in Memphis will not service anything unless you purchased it from them. My Mobile Suites has been there for repair since first of May and I purchased it from them. However, they are extremely good about taking care of their customers.

[wingnut60]

All they can say is NO--call 'em.

[bettyj]

A lot of problems can be traced to low fluid in hydraulic resevoir (use automatic transmission fluid to fill) and/or air in lines from low fluid level.
This is the first item to verify. I believe the resevoir is fullest when large slides are in and bedroom is out; conversely, the level is lowest when the large slides are out, bedroom is in--may be different in later models, but that is the way my '05 is.
You can also call Lippert for some help, they probably made the system.
Joe

I believe you are right. We were at DRV for a problem with the slides creeping out slightly. DRV purged the hydraulics. On our way here we continually had problems and today discovered that one of the valves was screwed all the way open and had not been closed. I believe DRV dropped the ball and left it open. Cost us 500.00 to mess up our hydraulic system. We are not happy campers. No one showed up today to help. We will see what happens tomorrow.

[wingnut60]

RGordon...
What is the problem with your MS that it is in for 2 months?
Joe

[Motor31]

Look at the hydraulic manifold. That's the aluminum block that has the hoses going to and from it. There are some knurled knobs on it. Make sure all of the knurled knobs are screwed all the way counter clockwise (as if unscrewing them) until they stop. That may cure the problem. The knurled knobs are for finger operation only so no wrench or pliers needed.

With the slides out and jacks down make sure the reservoir has enough fluid to be about 1/2 inch above the center line seam of the reservoir.

When operating the slides (jacks down first) run the slide farthest from the pump first then in order to the closest (bedroom). That helps purge air from the lines. Then operate the jacks.

[RGordon]

RGordon...
What is the problem with your MS that it is in for 2 months?
Joe

Joe, My MS has been in the shop for two months to get the roof repaired. The metal radius on each side from front to back started coming loose from the plywood on top, with staples and metal edges pressing up against the vinyl. I recommend that each of you get on top of your units are check the top sides of your vinyl top. Also the sewer piping had broken the grey water connections and destroying the plastic box under the sewer piping connections. The long sewer piping is not secured enough to keep it from shaking and breaking while transporting on normal highways, mostly interstates. Dining room light fixtures broke three times. I have also experienced some unusual things with the hydraulic system, like slides creeping out while letting down or raising front legs or rear stabilizers. Sometimes when you raise the bed it will jerk the bedroom slide. I need to check my hydraulic manifold valves.

[bettyj]

Look at the hydraulic manifold. That's the aluminum block that has the hoses going to and from it. There are some knurled knobs on it. Make sure all of the knurled knobs are screwed all the way counter clockwise (as if unscrewing them) until they stop. That may cure the problem. The knurled knobs are for finger operation only so no wrench or pliers needed.

With the slides out and jacks down make sure the reservoir has enough fluid to be about 1/2 inch above the center line seam of the reservoir.

When operating the slides (jacks down first) run the slide farthest from the pump first then in order to the closest (bedroom). That helps purge air from the lines. Then operate the jacks.

You are absolutely correct. Talk to Lippert earlier today and now things are perfect. Everything works good. Thanks for the suggestion it coinsides with what Lippert said. We had different advice from another source and that is what caused the problems with the landing gear. Things had not been put back in the way that they should have been at the factory. Thanks again.

[Motor31]

Glad to help out. I've had my share of hydraulic problems with the rig so I get kind of familiar with them. (4 pumps, one line replaced, one ram and lots of leaks) They really are a fairly simple thing once you get away from the pump assembly.

BTW you might also want to know for anyone who had a 2200 PSI pump as original equipment (05 and maybe 06 units), there are lines used that have a 2200 psi working pressure limit used in the rigs. The new pumps with the anti dive valve modification (check valve) are 2800 psi working pressure. Keep that in mind for the main jack lines as they are the ones under the most pressure.

Replacing them is not that hard and if you go to a hydraulic line shop, fairly inexpensive to fabricate. You will need to have some way to hold the rig up (tow vehicle) if you do replace a line. Get a couple caps to put over the pump and ram fittings to stop the fluid from leaking while you are getting the new lines made. That is a job they do while you are waiting at the counter. Bring to old line in and they will make a new one while you wait. About 10 minutes if they are not slammed.

[bettyj]

Wow! Hope we don't have to go through that. Thanks for the heads up. Who did you get to do the work and where are they located?

[Motor31]

I did the installation of the line and I used a hydraulic line manufacturer that I found in Lafayette Louisiana. They were in the side of the highway as we drove around seeing the sights so I didn't have trouble looking them up. As an aircraft mechanic I have also fabricated replacement hoses myself so I knew how it is done. If I had the fittings and mandrel I could have done it all at the trailer myself. It ain't rocket science and it's childishly simple to make them.

Just look in the local phone book under hydraulics. Folks that work on hydraulic rams will usually do hose manufacturing / replacement there as well. These are small diameter lines and no big deal at all.

[Bigriver]

Today I found a hydraulic problem, fortunately after returning home from a 4K mile trip.

On the driver's side rear landing gear jack, the hydraulic gear manifold was slightly leaking. I thought about checking for tightness, and after putting a small wrench on the nut, the manifold separated from ram housing.

Needless to say, I'm grounded till I can call DRV for either warranty work or for the parts. It doesn't look like much to install, but if it's covered under warranty, they may insist on a dealer doing the work. I'm concerned that it can be finished before too long, as more summer trips are planned out. Also, bleeding the system of air will be more trouble than installing the manifold itself I want to think.

Anyone else ever crossed this road before?

[billr]

Had the same thing happen to us a few years ago. Called Lippert and the Fedex a new fitting to us at the campground. If you don't run the Hyd and loose all the fluid out of the line (maybe cap it off) Then after installing the new fitting or valve, you can bleed it by cracking the line open a bit at the jacks while raising or lowering them to get most of the air out. They are near to the farthest from the pump. Just jog the switch to get it done. The rest should bleed out during regular use. Make sure the resivoir has enough fluid in it.

Bill

[Motor31]

Everything other than hoses should be covered by Lippert. I'm sure DT will refer you to them. They often send a tech out to you for situations like that. They did to me last summer and that was a 300 mile trip for the tech, one way.

[Bigriver]

Had the same thing happen to us a few years ago. Called Lippert and the Fedex a new fitting to us at the campground. If you don't run the Hyd and loose all the fluid out of the line (maybe cap it off) Then after installing the new fitting or valve, you can bleed it by cracking the line open a bit at the jacks while raising or lowering them to get most of the air out. They are near to the farthest from the pump. Just jog the switch to get it done. The rest should bleed out during regular use. Make sure the resivoir has enough fluid in it.

Bill

I spoke to Greg Weldon at DRV, and a manifold is being 2nd day air shipped to me from Lippert. I explained to Greg that I'd prefer to install this myself, to avoid traveling to a service center, to only have someone unfamiliar install this. He agreed, as there really isn't much to it.

After installing the manifold, Greg advised to open and close these in sequence.
1. Door Slide
2. Kitchen Slide
3. Rear Jacks
4. Bedroom Slide

Do this 3 times. This action will self purge any air back to the reservoir.

Hopefully this will be the end of this. I was thinking about even ordering another one of these manifolds just to have one on hand. I'd hate to be in a no-mans-land, and have another fail on me.

Also...Greg told me that the front jacks are independent from the rest of the system. Never the less, I didn't take any chances, I hitched up the truck just to ensure that the fronts didn't compress from the system being open.

[billr]

All sounds right. You should be ok with just working the rear stab jacks. Bleeding the lines first on that jack should save a lot of air going into the syst, then follow Greg's recomendations on the bleeding.

Good luck!

Bill

[Bigriver]

All sounds right. You should be ok with just working the rear stab jacks. Bleeding the lines first on that jack should save a lot of air going into the syst, then follow Greg's recomendations on the bleeding.

Good luck!

Bill

Yes, I agree Bill, I'll try to bleed it out there first. I imagine that I should crack open the black return hoses to do that.

Not much air has enter the system.....but then again I might be surprised. Thanks for your suggestion.

BTW......I'm diggen on your tow rig there!

[Motor31]

Keep in mind that the rams (jacks) are not a pass through system. If you DO have hydraulic fluid running through the ram and it flows past the seals the ram is bad and will not maintain pressure or position in the jacks. To bleed them you can crack the fitting on the side you are running (extension or retraction) until the bubbles are gone. Keep in mind that the pump moves A LOT of fluid so be careful as it WILL get messy and do not run the pump dry.

I did one line at a time. I had the ram at near full extension then by hand moved it up to purge the line of air at the manifold. It would do the same on retraction as well as each side of the ram is a pressure side. Just crack the appropriate line and move the ram. It doesn't take much as the line doesn't hold that much fluid, at least on the front jacks. It is a 2 person job.

[billr]

I agree with Mike's method. You can bump the pump, but it does move a bunch of fluid fast! Manually is a better option!

Bill