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Old 04-07-2017, 10:32 AM   #11
astrahsburg
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I didn't see the message about bringing the slides in before filling, but I just added 2 quarts of Dexron with a hand transfer pump, so that ended up being uneventful. I think my level on the outside is not accurate though. When it says level you can definately feel a heavy downslope to the back of the vehicle from inside. Hopefully the 2 quarts won't be too much, but if they are I will use the same pump to remove a little bit now that I have it.

I managed to figure out the water heater too. There was a flow valve that was in a half way position, so it was filling the hot water tank from cold water, but it was also supplying the manifold with more cold water than hot. After that I ended up with almost a trickle in the kitchten which resulted in pulling the faucet apart and removing sediment from it's filter. This weekend I plan on dumping the hot water tank again and running some vinegar through it along with cleaning up the threads on the anode socket and anode itself. If not this weekend, maybe next.

We got to sleep in it for the first time last night. Need to drop in a new Memory foam matress, but other than that, very very happy. It really feels like home.

Now to order new awning fabric (ended up being 16') and a skirt for the front.
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Old 04-07-2017, 12:58 PM   #12
wingnut60
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Sorry that I forgot about that valve--it is a 3-way in that it never shuts off flow--all way to either stop is hot or cold, and anywhere between is mixing cold with the hot to keep water cooler if too hot, as DSI does not have temp adjustment.
Get a 2 or 3' level and lay in floor near door. Use that area to check level, don't depend on your lying eyes....level side/side, then front/back. Marbles and ball bearings will tell a real tale, and to some people, the trailer is level when the bathroom door stays put or swings slightly to closed.
Did you say you had the auto-level? or manual?
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Old 04-07-2017, 01:07 PM   #13
astrahsburg
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Not autolevel. I will pick up a 3' level and check it that way. I only see a way to operate the landing jacks front and back together. Not individually, so not sure how to level side to side.
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Old 04-07-2017, 01:09 PM   #14
astrahsburg
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@Wingnut, which Dishwasher and oven did you install?
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Old 04-07-2017, 01:26 PM   #15
wingnut60
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First, if not auto-level, then the unit must be leveled side/side using blocks (1 & 2" x 8" wood is common) before unhitching. If unlevel s/s, and you can't move it, you will have to jack the low side up and put something under the tires.
Then, you use the front jacks to raise/lower the unit until it shows level. Then you lower the rear jacks to stabilize the whole trailer.
DO NOT use the rear jacks to actually lift the trailer, frame is not designed for that. You will see the rear end start to rise when extending the rear stabilizing jacks--that is the time to stop. Also, for long-term stability, it usually is best to have some blocks under the jacks to keep them from being extended to near maximum. I think you have said this is more/less permanent setup? If so, and you have a hydraulic leak, but system works (justs leaks) you can figure out how to place solid jacks under the frame to keep it from leaning if the jacks move.
Second, the D/W was in the trailer from the factory and, sorry, can't remember the brand. It was located to right of the double sink and power/water/drain run to sink. The stove/oven put in was an Amana, nothing fancy, but my wife wanted an oven. The install could not be told from factory install, but you lose the 2 drawers below the cooktop for storage.
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Old 04-07-2017, 03:33 PM   #16
astrahsburg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
First, if not auto-level, then the unit must be leveled side/side using blocks (1 & 2" x 8" wood is common) before unhitching. If unlevel s/s, and you can't move it, you will have to jack the low side up and put something under the tires.
Then, you use the front jacks to raise/lower the unit until it shows level. Then you lower the rear jacks to stabilize the whole trailer.
DO NOT use the rear jacks to actually lift the trailer, frame is not designed for that. You will see the rear end start to rise when extending the rear stabilizing jacks--that is the time to stop. Also, for long-term stability, it usually is best to have some blocks under the jacks to keep them from being extended to near maximum. I think you have said this is more/less permanent setup? If so, and you have a hydraulic leak, but system works (justs leaks) you can figure out how to place solid jacks under the frame to keep it from leaning if the jacks move.
I definitely need to redo my setup I guess, I will do that when I get home tonight. I have jack stands I used to use under my old RV, but I don't think they are high enough to reach the 5th wheel frame (at least not where the hydraulic jacks are). Would a king pin stabilizer be enough to hold the weight for side to side leveling?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
Second, the D/W was in the trailer from the factory and, sorry, can't remember the brand. It was located to right of the double sink and power/water/drain run to sink. The stove/oven put in was an Amana, nothing fancy, but my wife wanted an oven. The install could not be told from factory install, but you lose the 2 drawers below the cooktop for storage.
Yeah, wife already knows we are going to loose the 2 drawers. I've been looking at the Atwood stainless 21" so it matches the fridge right next to it.

For the dishwasher, i'm looking at the Fisher Paykel Stainless Drawer style. Our sink is not on the center island and is on the wall between the Kitchen living room, so looking to install at the bottom left of that.
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Old 04-07-2017, 04:52 PM   #17
wingnut60
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Another question before anything else on leveling--are you on a cement/asphalt surface?
Important if you are not for future settling into ground...if on dirt/gravel, etc--you should have something under the wheels that is solid--1 or 2x8 treated lumber is usually good. If on a paved surface, then maybe only something under the low-side wheels if off-level.
If sxs hasn't been bothering you already, then maybe ok already, but this will change later if on soft surface.
If you need to level sxs, then best way without a truck to move it is to get a floor jack or a bottle jack that will fit under the spring mounting plate (flat steel plate with the u-bolts thru it holding springs to axle) and jack each wheel up, then place needed boards under each one. Then it on to f/r leveling--raise rear stabilizers (never raise front with rear stabs down), then use front legs to level f/r. Same advice if on soft surface to have larger solid plate/board (use 2x12 stacked and alternate grain direction if use 2 pieces) to prevent future settling. Get it level f/r and then lower rears (again, after placing some boards under them, even if not on soft surface--remember, trailer will be more steady if rears are not extended real far. After all this is done, you can place the tripod back--I don't think much of them, but for a long-term deal, probably will be an asset.

If you prefer to contact me direct---- joedobry@gmail.com might be easier to talk that way.

Joe
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