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Old 02-02-2010, 04:26 PM   #1
Motor31
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Wet window

I just got through removing and replacing a window that has been a chronic leaker since new. I had caulked it to try and seal it but was not entirely successful. When I got the window down and out of the slide in wall (door side rear facing slide window) I saw it had been installed with no sealant at all. There was nothing behind the frame of the window where it mated to the outside wall other than a small, poorly placed undersized porous foam rubber air seal. Much the same as those draft seal rolls you buy at the hardware store. No putty, no bulb gasket, no lap sealant and sure as hell no caulk under the window frame. The foam rubber gasket was only flattened in some areas and not at all in others indicating there was no seal from it when the window was mated to the wall.

It was obvious that there was no quality control at all when this was assembled. How in the heck anyone would think that placing a bare frame metal window in a hole in the wall is going to be weather tight simply escapes me. No wonder it leaked and passed air when there was a breeze.

I took a couple shots of the bare wall where the frame of the window was and it's obvious that there was nothing for a seal behind or inside the frame of the window. I'll see if I can upload them later on.
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:56 PM   #2
Motor31
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What you see here is the remains of the caulk lines I had earlier put on the outside of the window frame. These shots are from the sides and bottom edges of the window taken with my phone camera. You can see nothing in place to seal anywhere around the window. Wonderful attention to detail in putting these rigs together.

The window now has 2 layers of window sealing putty tape that is used for this kind of application even in mobile homes. Once I got it back in place the putty started to ooze out a bit indicating it was under compression from replacing the window clamp ring. I guess I'll start doing the other windows as soon as I spot any further leaks.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:04 PM   #3
RodeWorthy
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Leaking windows

Mike,
I really appreciate the information you posted on the leaking window. I have the same problem with that window, the rear window on the door side and the rear window on the bedroom slide. I have long suspected faulty window installations. These leaks allow water to accumulate inside the wall and eventually to seep out into the carpet. This has potential for serious damage. I had been planning to tape a sheet of plastic over those windows to help verify that those leaks were originating at the windows. From what you have shown I will just go ahead and have the windows pulled and properly resealed.

I will be returning home in the spring and will be going by the factory. Perhaps we will be lucky enough to have DRV take a look at this. They have been very cooperative dealing with problems to date. I have a feeling that if I want this done right I am going to have to do it myself.

Good info. Thanks.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:00 PM   #4
morscuba
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The leak on my window turned out to be the seal around the bottom half of the window,,(I think its called the wiper seal) was about 1/4 inch gap against the upper sill. I called Herr and he sent me literally 9 feet of seal. I cut the new one installed it and not a drop has made it through..While waiting for the seal to arrived stuffed a plastic sandwich bag or part of one and covered it with silicone. That also stopped the leak.. I have been through some heavy rain, snow and ice with no problems.. good luck with yours
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:43 AM   #5
Motor31
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Rodeworthy,

The job is not difficult, just a bit tedious in dealing with the smaller windows in the rig. I would not really want to tackle the big window in the rear cap by myself. Those things are heavy. If you take your time it should take you about 2 or 3 hours to do the job and you only need a second person for the actual removal and replacement parts of the job. Almost all of it is a single person task. Given what RV shops are charging for labor (most well over $100 an hour) you'll save a BUNCH of money and be sure it's done right.


Removal is simple. Remove the window dressing and hanging trim. Then remove the wooden trim around the inside of the window. It's nailed in so you need a small prybar a rag for anti marring purposes (on the wall) and take your time. Once the window trim is out you'll see the entire window is held in by a bunch of screws around the periphery of the frame. Those screws hold a metal trim that applies pressure to the wooden framing the window is mounted in. Remove the screws (about a dozen plus for a small window). Then locate the pressure points where there is a shim centering the window in the hole. Gently start to press out the window frame. Make sure there is someone on the outside to hold and catch it.

I cleaned up the slide wall from the caulk I applied (small exacto knife with chisel blade and mineral spirits) and took off the old foam rubber "gasket" that was stuck to the window. I used a double layer of putty tape (Ace Hardware store stuff) on the curved window frame that mates to the slide wall. The putty tape is made for sealing windows and door frames especially in mobile homes and does not get rock hard.

The window was then replaced in the slide and held in place until I got the screws back in their holes. I then slowly tensioned the screws all around twice to get a good seal. Some of the putty tape will ooze out. I also looked for and then put more putty tape into the areas where the tape was not oozing to prevent any gaps. That slide wall and window are not plumb. Big surprise there! (roll eyes)

Once the window is back in place I left the interior window trim off and sprayed water (gently) around the window looking for leaks. Fortunately the next day it rained so I got an all day test of it.

You can also use the DAP non leveling (important kind for vertical use) caulk seal to go around the edge of the frame for additional sealing. I'm waiting until the weather gets a bit warmer to make sure no more putty oozes out first.

You may want to get some canned expanding foam to squirt around the inside of the window frame area if there are largish gaps as there is no real insulation there, just a wooden and aluminum frame around the window. Use the less expanding foam not the max expanding foam and use it sparingly.

You will also need to get a nail gun with finishing nails to replace the window trim on the inside. That is the only "special" tool that a normal RV'er may not have.
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Old 02-06-2010, 08:35 AM   #6
RodeWorthy
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Detailed window removal process

Mike,
Thanks very much for the detailed information to correct the leaking window problem. It is very thorough and the first I have read on the actual procedure. Sounds like something I can handle but I won't tackle it until we return home in April. I do have a brad nailer there so that will be no problem.

Fortunately the big back window in the rear cap is not leaking. The big blow we had a couple of weeks ago -- I'm sure you got it too -- really brought out the problem areas we do have. I am encouraged that there is a manageable fix for the problem.

Sam, good to know you were able to get your window leaks stopped too. What window had the leak? Good to know there is support from Hehr when we need it.

Good work guys. It is always better when we can do these things ourselves.
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