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Old 06-12-2011, 07:08 PM   #1
dalehandsome
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Tractor Trailer Question

I have a question for you Tractor Trailer enthusiasts! We have a 2010 38 tksb3 Mobile Suites that we need to move 130 miles. We have not yet purchased a tow vehicle because we will not need one for another year or two, or so we thought. Anyway, a friend has offered to move our unit with his tractor trailer. Will a tractor trailer accept our 5th wheel hitch without any modifications or adjustments? Also what do we do about the wiring for the lights? I assume the wiring harness on a tractor trailer is different than a 5th wheel. Our friend has never hauled a 5th wheel and has not seen our unit so he has no idea what he is dealing with. He lives quite a distance from us so I would like to save him the trouble of coming out to check things out.

Thanks,
Dale
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:29 PM   #2
porkchop
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I can answer parts of your question. The wiring is not the same. The tractor is set for air brakes, not electric brakes. The pins on a fifth wheel and a commercial trailer are identical. The tractor will connect fine. I had a commercial tractor move mine across a parking lot and into a shop some years ago. No problems. I have no idea about moving it down the hiway. I do know for certain the trailer brakes will not work. Hopefully you can find someone with the proper set up to move it for you. I would be glad to if close enough. We are in Idaho now.

Bill
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Old 06-12-2011, 07:44 PM   #3
Diesel-Gypsy
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Your assumptions are correct, both the brakes and the brake / parking & signal lights will not work.
The commercial plug is different than an RV plug, as well as the lighting systems being different.
A few miles might be worth the risk, but several hours on the road is too far in my view to tow without brakes & lights.

In order to make everything work, quite a bit of time / effort/ parts will be needed.

JMHO,
RL
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Old 06-12-2011, 09:53 PM   #4
dalehandsome
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Thanks for your help Diesel-Gypsy and Porkchop. We Do appreciate your offer Porkschop, Unfortunately, we are in Macon Georgia trying to get to Augusta.

Dale
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Old 06-12-2011, 10:13 PM   #5
terry and jo
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In addition to the aforementioned topics, one would also need to be very careful that the rear of the tractor would not come in contact with the coach when turning. I don't know how things are now-a-days, but when I drove 18-wheelers, the fifth wheel on the tractor could be moved back, but it would still be wise to measure very carefully.

All the above is presuming that the tractor was equipped with only one axle. If it is a dual axle tractor, it might be even worse.
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:05 AM   #6
Motor31
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Most pertinent points have already been mentioned. The truck still needs a brake controller for the trailer. On my rig I use a standard Tekonsha Prodigy controller. The wiring is different and the truck "pig tail" will not connect properly since it also is not the same as the RV style plug. It will also be illegal for the trucker to haul your trailer without functional brakes. Even though the load is far less than the truck is rated for the stopping distance will be very long without brakes on the trailer. I have personal knowledge on that as the brakes became disconnected more than once while we were towing because of a short pin in the connector.

The fifth wheel hitch on the tractor will need to be pretty far to the rear of the frame for the tractor to clear the basement door area of the trailer. As long as it is not an extended frame tractor and the tractor has an "air locker" hitch that is not much of an issue. The fact that the commercial hitch does not flex side to side MAY be an issue if he has to cover or hitch / unhitch on uneven ground. The pin will bind in the hitch in that case.

Most of the things can be taken care of fairly easily other than the hitch flex issue. The one other consideration is that the driver will learn quickly that he can't back the trailer like a commercial trailer. Because the wheels are not located at the end of the trailer the pivot points ands turn radius backing are really different. It takes a lot more room to straighten the rig out than a commercial trailer tractor combo does. Hitching also takes a very gentle touch unlike a commercial trailer because of the light way the RV is built. He just can't slam into the trailer and raise it onto the commercial hitch the same way.

Another issue may be the hitch itself. If his hitch is not a smooth plate without grooves or grease reservoirs he will be galling the hitch and pin assemblies. They are not the same design for bearing surfaces. When I used my old commercial hitch I had to have the hitch modified by welding a smooth plate over the grease reservoirs on it.

It is likely to be expensive for the both of you to use the regular trucker's truck.
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Old 06-13-2011, 11:18 AM   #7
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You'd be better off negotiating thru the dealer...let them contact one of their contracted haulers. @ $2-3/mile, 130 miles won't choke you.....1000 miles maybe.


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Old 06-13-2011, 05:07 PM   #8
dalehandsome
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Thanks for all your input. I have tried to find someone to professionally move the unit and the only bid I have is for $695.00, which I believe is a little pricy for a 130 mile journey. It becomes even more when pricy when our friend will move it for free, totally free. Moving it is not a must, just something we would like to do if it can be done affordably. Once again thanks for all your advice. As usual, I have learned a great deal from your comments.

Dale
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:54 AM   #9
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"a 130 mile journey"....remember, it's a minimum 260 miles for the hauler...more if he has to travel from his/her home base to pick up your rig.

Don't like the price, negotiate. Offer to pay for fuel, a reasonable surcharge and a labor rate of XYZ for his/her time, portal to portal. It's a bare minimum of 5 hours, round trip, not figuring time to hook up, un-hook, level the rig etc...so count on 6 hours. 6x$75/hour (driver and truck) =$450, plus fuel and surcharge....getting close to the quote you received.


At 7 mpg and $4.00 gallon, it's gonna cost your friend $150 just for fuel., then there is the wiring issue, brake controller, etc. ...might be free for you, but not for him. According to (ATRI) American Transportation Research Institute the average operating cost per mile for a class 8 truck in 2008 was $1.73 per mile and $83.68 per hour.
Estimates are the operating ratio is 95.2. This means for every dollar in revenue the trucking company has a cost of 95.2 cents. Leaving them with a profit of 4.8 cents of every dollar. (should be less for an owner operator, less overhead).

Just some points to consider...

Good Luck
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:37 AM   #10
Motor31
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Owner operators have the same kind of overhead in that they also have to absorb insurance and all maintenance costs in addition to the regular costs of operation. Every owner operator I spoke to said they make less take home pay than the standard hired driver.
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Old 06-14-2011, 02:58 PM   #11
wingnut60
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Find someone close by with a 350/3500 pickup who is also an RVer?
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Old 06-14-2011, 04:18 PM   #12
Gemstone
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"Owner operators have the same kind of overhead in that they also have to absorb insurance and all maintenance costs in addition to the regular costs of operation"...

No argument there, but what they don't have is the cost associated with multiple freight yards, real estate, back room employees, and the cost of the entire fleet of trucks....not saying they have it easy, just that their cost structure should be less than that of a freight company.

I do agree that the best option would seem be a fellow RV'er, whose insurance would allow this type of activity.

Regards
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