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Old 04-06-2018, 02:34 PM   #1
clev
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Battery wiring

I have six 6-volt batteries wired in series to parallel. According to what I’ve researched plus the diagram that I’m looking at right now, the negative cable to the inverter should come from the first battery in the string, and the positive should come from the last battery. In addition to that, and the reason for this post, I have all the other negative cables attached to the first battery and all the other positive cables attached the last. These additional cables have created a large stack on each terminal. For those that have a similar situation, have you distributed the cables among the other batteries or just have them stacked as I do?
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Old 04-06-2018, 10:18 PM   #2
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Old 04-07-2018, 12:36 AM   #3
clev
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That’s the same picture that I have port, but it doesn’t answer my question. What about all the other negative and positive connections? Do they also go on the first and last terminals? Or can they be distributed among the other batteries?
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Old 04-07-2018, 12:41 AM   #4
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I can’t picture what you have or are referring to.
Have a sketch or something you can share ?
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Old 04-07-2018, 12:49 AM   #5
clev
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My wiring is the same as the picture you posted. However, I have 7 other connections on both the positive and negative terminals. On the ground from the first battery in the string, I have the main cable to the inverter, the cable to the house system, the cable to the ground on the next pair of batteries, the generator control, the battery temperature sensor, the solar controller (2 separate cables), ground for tank sensors, and ground for the BMK; that makes a big stack. And then there's a similar stack on the positive of the last battery in the string.
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Old 04-07-2018, 04:26 AM   #6
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Clev - the only wire/cables I would have on my batteries is/are the interconnecting 2/0 or 4/0 battery cables and the positive - negative cables going to the inverter. Exception being a battery temp sensor.

From the inverter I would run two “systems” wires, + & - to an appropriate size bus bar. From there you add all your other 12 volt connections.

Some examples here.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=i...holedc+bus+bar
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Old 04-07-2018, 08:09 AM   #7
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Yes, that is my question. So, if I’m understanding correctly, you have wired a bus bar directly to the large lugs/connections on the inverter for both the positive and negative. And the only connections that are wired directly to the actual batteries are the inverter, battery series wiring, temp sensor, and solar hook up. Everything else goes to the bus. Is that correct?
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Old 04-07-2018, 09:13 AM   #8
porthole
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If it was mine I would have nothing extra on the batteries, not even SOLAR.

Especially if you have lead acid batteries.

I would also have a positive cable battery disconnect between the batteries and inverter and switchable breakers for the ancillary loads going to the bus bar.


But, that’s just me and I am not a SOLAR expert - yet ��
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Old 04-07-2018, 09:35 AM   #9
clev
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Thank you, port, for taking the time to discuss this with me, and having patience with my lack of knowledge on this project. Rather than go to PM, I'll continue here, just in case others are following for information.

1. All of my solar instructions show direct connections to the batteries. Would they not charge better with a direct connection? Would they not lose a degree of charging power by being routed through the bus, to the inverter, through the shunt and fuse, and then to the batteries?

2. Except for a LARGE shunt on the negative and LARGE fuse on the positive, the LARGE cables connect directly to the 2800 magnum inverter. Do I install the bus bar cables directly to the lugs on the inverter with the large cables?
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Old 04-08-2018, 10:35 AM   #10
porthole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clev View Post
Thank you, port, for taking the time to discuss this with me, and having patience with my lack of knowledge on this project. Rather than go to PM, I'll continue here, just in case others are following for information.

1. All of my solar instructions show direct connections to the batteries. Would they not charge better with a direct connection? Would they not lose a degree of charging power by being routed through the bus, to the inverter, through the shunt and fuse, and then to the batteries?

2. Except for a LARGE shunt on the negative and LARGE fuse on the positive, the LARGE cables connect directly to the 2800 magnum inverter. Do I install the bus bar cables directly to the lugs on the inverter with the large cables?
Clev, again I am not a SOLAR expert - yet. Although by the time I start that project I expect to be

So take this as it may be.

I do have extensive expeierence in the 12 Volt DC world of cars, truck, boats and RV's

My opinions.

If you are using the proper battery interconnecting cables, and by that I mean either marine grade or welding cable of 2/0 or 4/0 AWG, the voltage drops you might be concerned with would be minimal, minimal to point you probably could not measure it with typical VOM. And even if your meter could read a drop, 4 meters in a row would probably read different.

Any product you may purchase may very well include instructions that proper supply power could only be achieved by wiring directly to the batteries. It is not unusual on boats to perhaps have 3 or 4 dozen marine electronics that "require" direct wiring to the batteries".
Imagine that rats nest!

The other thing to consider is battery service. Why would you want to deal with a dozen extra wires if you have to remove a battery?
Or if you are using lead acid batteries, why subject all those extra wires to the electrolyte?

If it was mine:

Battery ---> #1 battery disconnect ---> fuse ---> shunt ---> inverter

Inverter ---> (the above shunt & fuse) AND #2 battery disconnect ---> bus bar

SOLAR ---> battery disconnect ---> whatever is required in the SOALR circuit (MPPT, etc) ---> battery side of #1battery disconnect

BUS bar ---> as required switchable breakers for higher loads and the trailer systems.

I like the Blue Seas marine breakers. Excellent product, a bit pricey but I have never been disappointed.

Amazon search blue seas 100 amp breaker

I specifically use this version.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-7144...00+amp+breaker

Examples of circuits I use these breakers for coming off my BUS bar;

80 amp - hydraulic pump, slides and LevelUp
50 amp - Hynautic brake pump
50 amp - feed to the trailers 12 volt systems
30 amp - feed to an industrial battery connector on the side near my docking station. I use this for my 12 macerator pump, mostly for when we get home.

Of course your needs would vary.

The above works for me.
I leave the trailer plugged in pretty much year round only because I do not have SOLAR on this rig.

But if desired I can isolate my batteries or my inverter or my trailer sub systems. Some people prefer the ability to turn off one master switch, for me I like options.

One other item I have not mentioned above is a simple 2" digital LED voltmeter connected to the battery side of the #1 battery switch. This allows me to see the battery state at any time at the batteries. That gauge is mounted in a small box that has a simple push button on off switch.
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Old 04-08-2018, 10:45 AM   #11
porthole
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BUS bars do not specifically have to be a BUS bar.
For example, with my 4 marine switchable breakers I mentioned above, I do not have 4 wires going to the 4 breakers.
I have a 2 AWG wire going to the first one (80 amp) then they are daisy chained.

The picture below is an early version of what I eventually ended up with, but gives you an idea
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Inverter_05.jpg (356.0 KB, 17 views)
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Old 04-08-2018, 11:54 AM   #12
clev
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Excellent information, Port, thank you. At age 70, and having done most of my own work on everything, including engine building and 12v wiring, I have basic expertise on a lot of things. Prior to ordering the solar, and instructing my wife on the install, I spent hours reading, and watching videos, but nothing ever addressed the many connection locations that one must perform during various installations. So, I still need to ask occasional questions; thanks again for being there.
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Old 04-10-2018, 01:48 PM   #13
porthole
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Clev - do you go on facebunk?

Look at this thread and look for the DRV Houston wiring PDF.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1746...3748104923056/
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Old 04-10-2018, 05:09 PM   #14
clev
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That is an excellent diagram, port, thank you for finding and sharing. I've added them to my MS Electrical folder and printed a copy. My Bus Power Distribution blocks and switchable fuses will be in tomorrow and I can rewire. Except for the buses in the diagram, mine is wired 'almost' like his.
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Old 04-11-2018, 02:45 AM   #15
Chad Heiser
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I have a large (1040 amp hour) battery bank in my trailer. The only wires touching my batteries are the interconnecting 4/0 cables. I have one positive and one negative cable coming from my batteries that go to bus bars. All 12 volt trailer/inverter connections go to those bus bars. It is the simplest way to wire a battery bank and with the proper sized wires for the length involved, there will be no issues with voltage drop/loss.

Since Facebook was mentioned. Here is a link to a Facebook post I made with a full description of my system including pictures and a wiring diagram.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/9172...7588748956282/
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Old 04-11-2018, 07:48 AM   #16
clev
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Thank you, Chad. I’ll be re-wiring today.
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:03 AM   #17
clev
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I checked your facebook, Chad; excellent write-up.
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:37 AM   #18
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Thank you. I’m happy to be able to help. Let me know if you need anything specific.
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Old 04-11-2018, 09:47 AM   #19
clev
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I thought that I had the problem fixed but I don't; hoping the rewiring will fix it. I have the Magnum 2800 set up with ME-RC Remote and BMK. My new batteries go through the complete charging procedure, read 12.8/12.9 volts and the ME-RC will read full charge. But item #2 SOC on the ME-RC will read in the 50% range and the #3 Ah I/O will read -300's. I don't know how a battery can read full charge, display 12.9 volts but be down more than half of the amp hour capacity. That is confusing the heck out of me.
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Old 04-11-2018, 11:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad Heiser View Post



That's the FB group I got banned from before I even joined !!!

Can't see the posts.
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