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Old 03-27-2018, 11:21 AM   #1
golf_bears
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Location: West Bend, Wisconsin
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Front Jack Leaking Oil?

Referencing the attached link. Have similar problem with one of my front jacks leaking. The RV does not dip down while stationary. Therefore assume the leak is on the rod side of the jack cylinder. Schedule to leave our park site on Friday. Concerned with the jack cylinder dropping slowly while traveling down the road. Those of you who have experienced similar problem, how did you keep the jack cylinder from dropping while traveling down the road? I need to get to Lippert's shop in IN from TX.

Thanks for all suggestions.

http://www.5thwheelforums.com/forums...ead.php?t=3501
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Old 03-27-2018, 01:11 PM   #2
Rockyhud
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golf_bears, sorry to hear you're plagued with this problem. From your post it sounds like you've already been in contact with Lippert to get the repairs, so it may be a moot point to discuss troubleshooting where the leaks are, since Lippert will do that once they have it. As for preventing the jacks from dropping and contacting the ground while the RV is being towed, the previous owner of our rig had someone weld some steel rings at the top and bottom of the front jacks and used a short section of chain with a carabiner at one end to attach the chain to the lower leg section once they were retracted. That was and is enough to hold the jack(s) up. The 2 photos I've attached show how this was done on our rig. I would recommend these "safety chains" be installed on both front jacks, just in case the one that hasn't been leaking down decides to change its behavior while you're on the road. Even if you have to have a welding shop do this it shouldn't take long for them to do the job. Hope this helps and you get to IN in time and safely.

Have a safe journey.
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Old 03-27-2018, 05:01 PM   #3
lostshakerofsalt
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I was able to use nylon ratchet straps. I looped the free end around the base of the jack at the foot and hooked the strap. On the door side, I opened the baggage door and put the ratchet through the gap between the frame and door strut. Using the ratchet, I tightened the strap enough to snug it but not enough to stress the door or door strut. For the off door side, Did the same thing except I used one of the propane tank handle as a hook point for the ratchet end of the strap. Again, I did not apply an excessive amount of tension to the strap, just enough to snug it up. I made sure the jacks were retracted fully and snugged the straps again. As we travelled from South TX to IN to get them repaired, whenever we stopped for a break, I would make sure the jacks were fully retracted. My straps limited the drop to about 2-3 inches between retractions.
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Old 04-15-2018, 09:23 PM   #4
suiteretreat
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I wrapped a wire around the leg below the mountain bolt on the foot pad and then routed the wire up the leg through the insulation where the leg runs through into the basement or hyd reservoir compartment and then wrapped the wire around the leg mounting support. Drove 500 miles with no problems.
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Old 04-17-2018, 01:31 PM   #5
MnP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suiteretreat View Post
I wrapped a wire around the leg below the mountain bolt on the foot pad and then routed the wire up the leg through the insulation where the leg runs through into the basement or hyd reservoir compartment and then wrapped the wire around the leg mounting support. Drove 500 miles with no problems.
X2 as recommendation by Robert's RV in Indiana. Pulled it for 1800 miles with no issue. Just don't deploy a slide or levelers without undoing the wire first.
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