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Old 03-20-2019, 04:30 PM   #21
Cummins12V98
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Originally Posted by porthole View Post
I have similar blocks for the front 12x12x10’s and use dimensional 3x12x22’s for the rear jacks.

Shouldn’t have to use anything. Only time in 9 seasons with my toy hauler I used any blocks was on soft ground. And the only time I used the rear electric stab jacks was when the dogs used the garage as their rough house room.

The jacks used on these 22K+ pound trailers are then same leveling jacks used on 14-15K 5th wheels. Perhaps using the same front rams in the rear would make them more stabile.

My overall length is the same.
It seems that most of the trailers only use a few different frames.

Are your other numbers using a plumb line or direct?
I measured end to end in the past with a laser level. The CL axle to pin is eyeball. I'm pretty close doing so since I was in construction for 35 years.

Curious what your number is.
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Old 03-20-2019, 07:44 PM   #22
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What is your overall length fiberglass to fiberglass? I am about 40' 10"
Pin to first axle center? I am 24' 2"
Front cap to pin? I am 22"
2019 39 DBRS3

Overall 40’ 10”
Pin to first axle center 22’ 10”
Front cap to pin 22”
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Old 03-20-2019, 09:49 PM   #23
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Looks like perhaps they moved the axles forward about 1' 4" on this model?
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Old 03-21-2019, 09:40 AM   #24
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Way back when i was doing all the weighing at the rallies of these trailers and the pin weights were very high I asked one of the big shots at the company why they didn't move the axles forward a foot or so to lower the pin weights. He said then they were talking about it. That must have been about 2009-2010?
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Old 03-21-2019, 10:17 AM   #25
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That is a lot of difference 1' 4" for our RV's being the same length. I would be curious how much less my 5,700# pin would be if my axles were moved forward 1' 4".
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:33 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
That is a lot of difference 1' 4" for our RV's being the same length. I would be curious how much less my 5,700# pin would be if my axles were moved forward 1' 4".
I would believe substantial as the balance point would change lifting the weights off the pin. That was exactly why I asked the fellow that the Mobile Suites trailers had such heavy pin weights and much more than any other trailers we were weighing at the time. People were buying bigger and bigger trucks to be able to carry that high pin weights. For short time they added the third axle, only just placed it behind the second axle, causing higher pin weights!
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:52 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
That is a lot of difference 1' 4" for our RV's being the same length. I would be curious how much less my 5,700# pin would be if my axles were moved forward 1' 4".
I’m no math engineer, but I’m sure one could calculate the difference. There is probably even an app for that.

But, if the axles were where I think they should be, based on proper pin weight or just a visual reference, that extra 1’ 4” would eliminate my ugly fenders.
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:56 AM   #28
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I would believe substantial as the balance point would change lifting the weights off the pin. That was exactly why I asked the fellow that the Mobile Suites trailers had such heavy pin weights and much more than any other trailers we were weighing at the time. People were buying bigger and bigger trucks to be able to carry that high pin weights. For short time they added the third axle, only just placed it behind the second axle, causing higher pin weights!
Stacey
If you look at any of the newer DRV’s with the full rounded nose, the front is probably 1-2 feet longer then many other 5th wheels
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Old 03-21-2019, 01:13 PM   #29
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When you are not comparing model# to same model#, is any of that accurate?

Bill
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Old 03-22-2019, 08:43 AM   #30
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"For short time they added the third axle, only just placed it behind the second axle, causing higher pin weights!"

I asked about adding a third axle and all they would have done is add it behind my back axle giving ZERO relief to my pin weight.

I have seen the rigs with the cut out fenders, NOT a FAN!!! I have to say even with the 5,700+# pin I would prefer it over having the fenders chopped!

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Old 03-22-2019, 09:40 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Cummins12V98 View Post
"For short time they added the third axle, only just placed it behind the second axle, causing higher pin weights!"

I asked about adding a third axle and all they would have done is add it behind my back axle giving ZERO relief to my pin weight.

I have seen the rigs with the cut out fenders, NOT a FAN!!! I have to say even with the 5,700+# pin I would prefer it over having the fenders chopped!

And if you saw them up close you would say WTF.
Especially the left side, they don’t even put the cut off back on.
And, they are cut after installation, by what looks like a sloppy sawzall cut, jagged edge and not even plumb.

The fenders were on my list and all DRV did was try and square them up, and on the left side that means they took almost a 1/2” off making them look worse.

I know we don’t have they same models as was pointed out ��, but side by side I’d bet the rigs are structurally about the same.

Having been at the DRV factory 6 times now I would venture to guess all the trailer models in the 40-41’ range are the same frame.

Same with the 3 axle models. I’m not including toyhaulers in the observation.

When you look at frames in the plant, all the main mechanics are in the same locations.
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Old 03-22-2019, 10:38 AM   #32
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"For short time they added the third axle, only just placed it behind the second axle, causing higher pin weights"!

I do know for a fact that DRV will not currently add a third axle to any rig designed as a two axle. And if they ever did it would be a big big surprise to me.

If you look at the bar code tag that is in the step area on your rig it will tell you what floor plan your specific frame was suitable for. Most are suitable for maybe two. My Santa Fe frame is only suitable for this floor plan. YEMV

Bill
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Old 03-22-2019, 04:54 PM   #33
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I know were not talking apples to apples but my 2011 36 RSSB3 pin to center of front axle is 22' 5". Pin to front of cap 6". I'm right at 38' overall. 12' rear axle to end. I guess that's why mine doesn't move around when parked.
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Old 03-23-2019, 10:52 AM   #34
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I honestly think everyone has a different impression or what it means to have the RV moving around.

All I know is mine is much more stable with the blocks under the landing gear.
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Old 03-23-2019, 11:08 AM   #35
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I don't disagree with you. I posted my measurements to show how much less over hang I have then yours. Less over hang = less leverage.
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Old 03-23-2019, 11:49 AM   #36
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I honestly think everyone has a different impression or what it means to have the RV moving around.

All I know is mine is much more stable with the blocks under the landing gear.
We all have different sensitivities to movement.

Our last trailer only shook or moved when the dogs were rough housing in the garage or the Splendide was doing it’s 1200 rpm thing. Both expected.

This trailer. You can’t walk around without a shake.

Just getting out of my recliner, which is electric and very smooth - wait - scratch that, my just repaired last month recliner stopped working a week ago.

Just getting out of my wife’s recliner and walking to the fridge can wake her in the bedroom. I think using the same jacks on our 20k+ rigs that are used on the 14-15 k rigs is under sizing them. That and my rear jacks could probably be moved back 3’.

Moving the jacks is something I’m going to ask Lippert to do. There is plenty of real estate to weld on new pads.
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:20 AM   #37
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porthole, I wonder if it's possible that the computer in the leveling system is not taking enough load off the wheels? Have you tried after hitting auto level mechanically raising the front and rear a bit?

I place one of the levels (see pic below) above the controls and one on the side of the propane box, so I have a mechanical way to re level or temp level as shown in pic above when staying hitched. I am picky so I used my Laser Level and got all 4 corners of the bottom of the frame the same dimension above the Laser Line. Then go thru the procedure to re set "LEVEL". Then I used Permatex Black Gasket Maker to attach using tape to hold them in place while adhesive cured.

I did remove the stick on tape.

So by doing this you could manually hit extend front a bit then back extend until it's level again.

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Old 03-25-2019, 10:41 AM   #38
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My almost 4’ long “signature” is forever embedded into his driveway.

Hah ! Only 4’

I have a trailer hitch scar of 6-8”.

My hitch wheels leave marks but it is mostly just the steel wheels crushing all the high spots. I expect it to look less noticeable when I power wash this year.

The boards on the sides were my previous method of getting into my driveway.
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Old 03-25-2019, 02:49 PM   #39
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We all have different sensitivities to movement.

Our last trailer only shook or moved when the dogs were rough housing in the garage or the Splendide was doing it’s 1200 rpm thing. Both expected.

This trailer. You can’t walk around without a shake.

Just getting out of my recliner, which is electric and very smooth - wait - scratch that, my just repaired last month recliner stopped working a week ago.

Just getting out of my wife’s recliner and walking to the fridge can wake her in the bedroom. I think using the same jacks on our 20k+ rigs that are used on the 14-15 k rigs is under sizing them. That and my rear jacks could probably be moved back 3’.

Moving the jacks is something I’m going to ask Lippert to do. There is plenty of real estate to weld on new pads.
This is the first 5th wheel I've had with auto leveling. I find it interesting that all the others 5th wheels had rear stabilizers at the REAR of the coach.
I agree if the rear hydraulic jacks were moved back it would have to cut down on movement.
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Old 03-25-2019, 03:25 PM   #40
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They are "leveling", not "stabilizing" jacks. Therefore their placement. I have seen people, not necessarily DRV, install stabilizer jacks to the rear of the frame.

On my rig it is 23'10" from the pin to the front axle, and 14'6" from the rear axle to the rear of frame and the last leveling jack is 3' behind the last axle. Thus 11'6" between the last jack and rear of frame. No way they could move the jacks that far rear and not twist the frame leveling.

We put blocks like cummins made under the jacks and do not have a problem with wiggle. My front jacks are 100% retracted, just sitting on the blocks and the rear are around 5-6" extended. If we were to get unlucky and start getting really unlevel sites I think I would get a set on manual scissor jacks and install them at the rear for stabilization. YEMV Good luck with your choices.

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