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Old 09-14-2011, 10:24 AM   #21
wingnut60
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Mike,
While under the trailer working on the door-side slide, I turned 180degrees looking down the slide tube--there is a similar roller on the rear slide bar on the kitchen slide, haven't looked at the front of the kitchen slide, but assume another roller is there.
I had my wife move the kitchen slide while I watched the rear roller--no odd movement, so it is prob still ok. Since the kitchen slide has been in/out about as often as the door slide, expect to have a problem with it also. I believe there is more weight/force acting on the door-side rollers since it has to ramp up to come in??

There is no 'release' of any type on the rack/pinion setup--either the gears mesh or they don't. The gear on the rollers showed some wear from skipping the teeth on the slide bar. If the racheting sound you hear has been present since new, it can't be from pinion teeth missing the rack teeth or you would have had incomplete in/out movement. There is no allowance for 'give' except for the shear bolt (common 1/4" threaded bolt)--if the rear bolt broke, there could be no movement at all; if the front broke, the rear would move, but not the front.
I have to say--I can hear the teeth 'meshing' now with the new rollers and never heard it before. Movement is much noisier than with the old rollers--I can't account for that.
Joe
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:48 AM   #22
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HHHMMMM I kind of thought there might be some kind of ratchet pawl on the gear as a locking mechanism to keep the slide from moving in transit. That was what I figured caused the ratcheting sound. Now I really am curious about it. It's a shame you have to undo the bottom liner to even get a look at the situation.

The problem I have with the kitchen slide is in the center portion. It is viewed from inside the pocket door. They used a piece of angle aluminum about 2.5" to a side for the surface of the center of the slide to mate with the roller for weight carrying. It is on the sink side of the pocket door interior. The stress on it tends to force the angle aluminum to the side and pulls the mounting screws out of the wall. Once the metal has pulled away enough it allows the wooden under structure to contact the roller dropping the center of the slide down and crushing the lower wooden construction of the slide.

When that happened to me in Montana about 3 years ago I posted pix of the situation and what I did to fix it.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:04 AM   #23
wingnut60
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Little more on the kitchen slide--it is the reverse of the door slide, hydraulic cylinder is on front roller/slide bar and it drives the rear roller.
I believe (don't know for sure) there are 2 (some have 3?) interior rollers that bear weight of slide and roll on the linoleum flooring, since this slide does not raise up to come in. I have seen units with wear marks on the linoleum where the interior rollers come in contact with the floor.

To replace the kitchen slide rollers would mimic what I showed on the door slide.

I still have not buttoned back up the belly cover--thinking this over on how best to do it. Also, I will problably double the insulation in there since there is plenty of room for a 2nd layer of the fiberglass about 6-8" thick.

I would like to take off/replace all the belly cover but not sure I want to tackle that since there are numerous items that are fastenend thru the cover that would have to come off first.

One interesting item I discovered in the belly cover (wish I had taken a pic)--when I first started the work, there was a small gash in the belly cover near and behind where the steps mount. I could see a piece of metal in the opening. After taking down enough belly cover to access the front roller, and pulling the insulation out, I found a BAL wheel chock sitting up there???? APPEARED to have been run over and flipped up thru the plastic cover and just sat there--I have no other explanation for it. I now have a 3rd BAL wheel chock....STRANGE!

Joe
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:11 AM   #24
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Bringing this back for a question.

Was that Bennets the RV dealer in Granburry TX?

I know you said they had the roller for about $35, did you need a part number of anything like that to get it from them? I'm about to open the belly of our rig and I want to have a handle on ordering parts before I get started.
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:19 AM   #25
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Bennets in Granbury is where I found the one roller--believe they had had it in stock for some time. As to the cost, that is what they charged me. There are 2 rollers on Lippert site--both same, except for description. The one from Bennets was the light duty one, the ones I got from Lippert were the HD ones, much more expensive.
Are you around Granbury at this time? I have one extra HD roller if you are interested.

Joe
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:24 AM   #26
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Mike,
Here is link to what I got from Lippert.

http://store.lci1.com/shared/StoreFr...unt2=349830269

And that is what I have an extra of. Reason I have it--ordered from Lippert, and due to the shipping time I checked at Bennets. They had one, so I bought it before the Lippert shipment came in, so now my slide has one standard duty and one heavy duty one.

I got the one described a s heavy duty for 2.5" x 2.5" tubes.

Joe
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:36 AM   #27
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Joe,

I was asking because of the price differential between the lippert and Granburry sources. Pretty significant.

At this time I am not sure I will need it because I have not gotten into the basement yet. It's been surprisingly soggy here in Southern AZ this month and not a good idea to open the basement or lay on the wet ground to look. I plan to be here for a couple more months at least.

I do know I have to do something to get the frickin slides to stop ruining the flooring. I think I have the kitchen slide done as far as the center section is concerned. I'll be looking at the rollers there too anyhow. It's the door side that is creating the problem with the carpet. I can't keep shampooing it every time we operate the slide.
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:55 AM   #28
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Mike,

I questioned the parts person about the price--she told me that was correct. I suspect they had it in stock for some time, maybe that is why the differential. They are correctly called "gear packs" by Lippert.

When at Indiana Interstate, I asked Paul Cross about the kitchen slide, and why some people had marks on the linoleum--he said that he had seen many instances of the middle roller missing completely (believe he said there were supposed to be 3) and he had done lots of work on that slide for roller problems. I don't have any markings on my linoleum.

You might want to call Cross and ask him about the rollers--I have recently emailed him about my popping sound on the opposite slide and he has given me some adjustment ideas. My door slide has always hung up at the upper front corner--obvious why, the plastic knob that I suppose is there to keep the slide in while traveling, hangs up on the flange that is on the trailer body. Goes in fine, hangs up bad coming out. When looking at the closed slide, I would expect it to look 'cocked' toward that corner but it is even all around--no gaps different at any place around the entire slide. He suggested I elevate that side by using the adjustment bolts at the end of the slide tubes--I plan to experiment a little on that.

I might have to break down and take it to Bennetts to have them look at it before our AK trip this summer--gotta do something about it.

Joe
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Old 12-24-2011, 09:51 AM   #29
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Joe,

Thanks for the clue about the rollers. As far as I know I have a set of metal rollers at the inside portion of the kitchen area where the aluminum angle rests. I do not see any other ones but there might be a set at the edge of the stationary floor that I can't see from the inside.

In my case the edge of the pocket door frame contacts the floor as the slide comes in close to the closed point and then picks the edge up as the final movement takes place when the slide mates with the outside wall. It took a chunk out of the linoleum. I replaced the aluminum angle as it had bent and pulled away from the wall inside the pocket on the outside portion of the assembly. That let the load bearing portion of the interior partition drop down and have wood to metal roller contact. The wood, soft pine of course, collapsed when this happened. Replacing the aluminum seemed to gain a bit of clearance but there is still some angular movement on the interior edge of the pocket door. We exercised the slide one time after replacing the metal and it seemed to clear.

I posted pix of this situation way back when it happened the first time about 3 years ago. I'll have to look for the post and make a link to it for anyone else who might have the same situation.

I'll send an e-mail to Cross and see if he can give me more info about where those rollers should be located. It would not surprise me a bit to find out they are missing.
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:23 AM   #30
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Have not had any problems with the kitchen slide--yet. After 6+years of moving in/out, I expect some wear and hopefully can stay ahead of it. My carpet has marks at the rear end of the door slide--has been there since I got it used, hasn't gotten worse.
Joe
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Old 12-24-2011, 11:15 AM   #31
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Don't know much about the slides but this past April Drv added another roller near the storage dish cabinet the slide was dragging. Should have ask if the roller had been left off during build? I did have a issue with the bedroom slide as Fly was spotting the Suites after repair of the roller. They had to replace the support lag bolts there were two now there is 6 larger lags bolts. However it still needs adjusting.. Drv has now went to the electric and replaced the hydraulic systems in 2011's??? Happy Trails.....
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Old 12-24-2011, 02:47 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motor31
Joe,

Thanks for the clue about the rollers. As far as I know I have a set of metal rollers at the inside portion of the kitchen area where the aluminum angle rests. I do not see any other ones but there might be a set at the edge of the stationary floor that I can't see from the inside.

In my case the edge of the pocket door frame contacts the floor as the slide comes in close to the closed point and then picks the edge up as the final movement takes place when the slide mates with the outside wall. It took a chunk out of the linoleum. I replaced the aluminum angle as it had bent and pulled away from the wall inside the pocket on the outside portion of the assembly. That let the load bearing portion of the interior partition drop down and have wood to metal roller contact. The wood, soft pine of course, collapsed when this happened. Replacing the aluminum seemed to gain a bit of clearance but there is still some angular movement on the interior edge of the pocket door. We exercised the slide one time after replacing the metal and it seemed to clear.

I posted pix of this situation way back when it happened the first time about 3 years ago. I'll have to look for the post and make a link to it for anyone else who might have the same situation.

I'll send an e-mail to Cross and see if he can give me more info about where those rollers should be located. It would not surprise me a bit to find out they are missing.
Mike, I had to repair this on our 05 38RL3 twice now. The first time the adjustment bolts snapped on that roller assy under the Kit wall inside that pocket door. I removed the whole thing and replaced the bolt and adjusted. Not too bad, have to get in from under sink and door area.

Second time the allum angle that RV screwed in with 3 little self tappers into the wood let go and caused a mess.

I have now moved the roller assy over a bit and lined it up better with the wall and put the allum angle on the opposite side of the inner pocket door wall frome where they had it. I bolted it through the main wood base with long bolts and large washers. Not going anywhere now. seems to be working very well now.

Sorry no pics, but once your in there of if you have already been there you can see your way through it.

Don't forget to check the outer wall rollers there are 4 I think. Can access them under the outside slide wall bottom at frame by pulling up the rubber seal. You may know about these, they can pop out of the mounts.

Bill
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Old 12-25-2011, 04:42 PM   #33
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Bill; that is the repair and mod I performed within the first year of owning my 38'er. I may have mentioned to you that I removed that aluminum piece that was already worn badly and replaced it with a piece of steel angle that was 3" X 5" so that the five inch part was down and the part the little duplex rollers rode against to support the inner weight of the slideout.

I used that part of the angle to lay the drain hose on and fastened it to the upper side of that to keep it from being continuously dragged over the 'sharp cornered' roller end brackets.
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:38 AM   #34
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Bill,

I just saw something in your post that makes me think I might have more to do in the pocket door area. You mentioned adjustment bolts. From what I recall in replacing the aluminum angle I didn't see anything that would resemble any kind of adjustment option on the rollers. It looked like bronze rollers captured in a mount kind of like the plastic ones on the outer edge of the slide area. Just a captured axle to maintain position of the rollers.

I guess I ought to go back in the cabinet area and take another look. Adjusting the roller height might eliminate the contact issue. I've already removed wood from the end caps on the pocket already to try and gain clearance.
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:13 PM   #35
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Mike, The adjustment bolt is horz at floor level in that bracket for the rollers. Useing a socket and extention you access from outside of the pocket door. You do have to remove the floor inside sink area to see it and get on the bolt. A little adj goes a long way here. Too much up and the slide will not tilt back down when moving in and too far down and it drags floor. Tokk a few trys to get it. The ends of the wood at the top of the pocket door had to be trimmed a bit on mine.


Yes Bruce, I remembered your story when mine went south! ha I guess everyone our there with this model will learn one day as well. Wonder if DRV every did? Hummm....

Bill
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:39 AM   #36
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Bill, I think DRV did learn something about that 38RL3 model....result is they dis-continued it !

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Old 01-04-2012, 10:07 AM   #37
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Welp, I got into the basement and looked at the rollers on both big slides. As far as I can tell there is some wear on the door side slide rollers but nothing substantial. I jacked up one end that mu mirror showed had the most wear. While there is a gap on the top of the axle support I could find no great amount of slop with the rollers themselves. The bushings were still in place, round and not wobbly. I tried to see if the rollers would move up and down as well as rock them for play on the axle. No real play at all, certainly nothing even close to the situation like the collapse I saw in the posted pix. The kitchen side rollers were in even better condition. I hit them with some LPS rust preventer lube and closed the belly up. I did find the wooden supports placed to secure the belly cover was a very soft pine. My weak electric screw driver had no trouble starting and seating wood screws to help close the access holes I made or opened up.

I had hoped there might be some kind of roller I could adjust on the flush floor slide (door) to help keep the carpet from getting dirty. It seems a really cheesy idea to just have the slide forward edge rest and slide directly on the carpeted floor but that's how drv did it. I guess all you can do it pull the slide in a few inches then get in the ledge area to clean it out. Unfortunately it still is susceptible to collecting road dirt as it isn't really sealed off that well when the slide is in.

On the next day or so I'll be trying for the height adjustment on the kitchen slide partition roller. Hopefully I'll have a better result with that.
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