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Old 12-04-2009, 08:36 AM   #21
bstark
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Don; now that idea of top clamping the sink through the strainer basket holes is simply the best thing I've seen in a while. Great approach, gonna remember that little detail.

Once you get done with that job you'll have time to go up and remove the A/C covers to blow the crap out of the coils and get rid of the colonies of those da** asian beetles that resemble lady-bugs! Mine were both chock full of those nasty critters. I didn't find much crud in the cooler coils but the condenser fins were full of Arizona desert dust. So quit lollygagging and get up there and get to work! Haaar!

O.K. I have to come clean here and admit the only reason I went up there was to clean out a mud-dauber nest that had created an out-of-balance condition on the fan of the front A/C.
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Old 12-04-2009, 02:57 PM   #22
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Come on by

Hi Golf_Bears,
Thanks for the comments. Currently we are at Saguaro SKP Co-Op in Benson, AZ. We will be here most of December. Not sure of your destination in AZ but if you are in the area come on by.

We dropped down to DeQueen, AR from Branson. Interesting drive through there. We crossed into OK on Hwy 70 and onto 82 in TX after a stop at Eisenhower SP at Denison. Used 380 to come across New Mexico - beautiful road but somebody had a death wish there and ran us off the road. Good thing there were wide paved shoulders. Absolutely beautiful ride through Ruidoso and Mescalero on the way down to Las Cruces. As you can tell we are avoiding Interstates. We are slow anyway so it doesn't matter.

If you are staying on I40 and will be stopping anywhere near Amarillo there are some great deals there on a 3-day stopover with free laundry! Let me know if you need more info - I will look it up.

Safe travels!
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:15 PM   #23
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More troubles

Now Bruce. You don't think I have had enough troubles this trip that I have to go looking for trouble? LOL! Good point on the A/C units though. We definitely have a few Ladys hitchhiking with us. They must be clustered somewhere. The only use for the A/C on this trip so far is for the heat pumps. That 72 in Lakekland sounds great. Temps nice here too -- in the daytime :(

Case in point on the troubles -- the Propane/CO detector has been giving me fits. On 3 occasions (always about 2:30 AM) that thing has been going off indicating a propane gas detection. I shut the propane off just to be sure but it still kept alarming. It must have been detecting something because when I opened the door to let in fresh air it resets. Don't like to argue with my instruments but I have to believe there is something wrong with it. I couldn't stand it any longer so it came out last night. Anybody know how long the warranty is on these things?

To put a finish on the sink thing the parcel arrived from DRV but it did not contain the new epoxy adhesive. It was the original Sikaflex - 252 Elastic Adhesive. Not good for this application. Elastic Adhesive is a good description for this product. When the sink drops the material can be stripped off like one big elastic band. Don't use this stuff to repair the sink.

Thanks for your comments on the jig. It did work out well and was cheap and easy to do. That's me, cheap and easy :)
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:50 PM   #24
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Nice work Don! Now on the road again eh?
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Old 12-04-2009, 05:49 PM   #25
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Has been over a year and a half and the sink is still holding. Hope you guys keep posting your fixes to these problems so I can fix mine.
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:25 AM   #26
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Quote:
Case in point on the troubles -- the Propane/CO detector has been giving me fits. On 3 occasions (always about 2:30 AM) that thing has been going off indicating a propane gas detection. I shut the propane off just to be sure but it still kept alarming. It must have been detecting something because when I opened the door to let in fresh air it resets. Don't like to argue with my instruments but I have to believe there is something wrong with it. I couldn't stand it any longer so it came out last night. Anybody know how long the warranty is on these things?
RodeWorthy

I had this same exact thing happen two times in my suite.

The first time I had a heck of a time figuring out what was wrong. The first couple nights I thought the propane detector was bad then about the third night the Carbon Monoxide detector went off too.

Turns out, both times I had a bad battery.

The batteries must get a short in them and start boiling.
I would check the battery/s and see if one of them feels hot or very warm.

I never would have thought that the fumes could get from the vented battery compartment into the living area.

I hope this helps you....
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:00 AM   #27
Motor31
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I had the propane detector go bad on our unit. Random alerts and full batteries. I sent it back to the company as per their instructions when I contacted them. They tested it and sent a replacement under warranty since it was out of specs on sensitivity. It went out during the summer so propane furnace use was out of the question.

There is a service life expectancy on these things, I believe 5 years is the norm, I could be wrong on that time frame though. At the time I sent it in (over a year now) the price for a replacement unit was $70.00 if I had needed to purchase one.
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:16 PM   #28
billr
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We also had the same issues with the propane detector a year ago. I finally pulled it out and the MFG date was 2000 and the trailer is a 2005. They put a 5yr old unit in my new trailer. I called Tom Peck and he was interested in getting it back. They sent me a new one.
No issues since. There is something to the 5 yr thing I think.

Bill
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:12 PM   #29
RodeWorthy
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Popane/CO Detector problems

Hmmm...... gasssing batteries? Now there could be something to that. We have four 6-Volt batteries with the extra compartment built into the basement. I did a lot of rewiring in there this past summer during the installation of the solar system. Sealed up openings well but there is one area I did not because I want to modify it to install a main battery disconnect. Need to look at that.

No doubt my batteries have been active because I am experimenting with relying on the solar for most of the charging. We use around 100 AH a day and the batteries charge during the day. Most of the problem I have had with the propane detector have been at night when not charging. This is not a low voltage condition. My instruments tell me the lowest voltage I saw the night the latest failure occurred was 12.2VDC. The documentation says the instrument will work down to 7 VDC.

There is a large hole where the detector wiring feeds into the bottom step area. No doubt it is open to the basement area but sealing that hole would make that compartment pretty tight. But any fumes getting to the unit would come by the front, not inside the step area.

The meter is probably sensitive to trace elements of propane gas so is it possible we would not smell these? There are other types of gas that also affect the sensors. Who knows. We have been tightly closed up at night because it has been cold. But the bottom line is the alarm clears when exposed to fresh air. That leads me to believe the instrument is acting as intended.

I reinstalled the alarm today and it went through its sensor cleaning stage (blinking green light) and then went to normal operation. A subsequent test shows the alarm memory is clear.

If it alarms again I will contact MIT Industries directly. The mfg date of the alarm is May 2007 consistent with the mfg date of our trailer. We are a bit early for the 5-year required replacement but if it has to be it has to be. Maybe I can get lucky and get the same results as Bill and Mike.

Thanks for reporting your eperiences with the alarm.
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:59 AM   #30
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When my batteries were bad I still had very good voltage.

I too, didn't have a problem in the day time.
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Old 12-13-2009, 09:17 AM   #31
RodeWorthy
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Sink repair - silicone sealant at rim

For those of you who may face this job in the future I have one more comment on the sink repair and I will leave it alone.

I used PL Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive (Home Depot) to reattach the sink to the underside of the counter top. This seems to be an excellent product for the job. I never did receive the new epoxy adhesive from DRV - they sent the original elastic adhesive.

If you use the PL adhesive let it cure for several days before applying silicone sealant around the rim. I waited two days before doing this and I got some air bubbles coming into the bottom of the silicone bead. I presume this was from the adhesive still going through its curing process. I was able to smooth out the bubbles but it does not make for as nice a job. Trying to apply a nice even bead of sealant is not high on my skill set list in the first place but I had it looking pretty good. It was disappointing to have to 'play' with it after it began to set.
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Old 12-18-2009, 11:18 AM   #32
Bill40
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Don I really like your top clamp, I used my bottle jack and a board to hold mine in place. I used the glue and four sink clips I purched at Lowes. Your clamps sure give more room to work under the sink.
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Old 12-19-2009, 04:34 PM   #33
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Hi Bill40,
Thanks for the comment and welcome to posting on Fifth Wheel Forum. Good to hear from new posters anytime. Interesting to learn that this same problem is occuring in other brands too.

Safe Travels and Happy Camping.
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'07 Mobile Suites 36RS3 #3910
Mor/ryde IS, Trailersaver TS3 hitch
Level-Up with Remote Control
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'08 Chevy 3500 dually Duramax/Allison
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