dump valve problems

OB · 09-30-2010, 02:29 PM

Hi You all; I need some advice please. I have an 04 36TK3. Have had a problem with the grey water dump valve forever. It appears the routing of the cable makes it do a weird twist, therefore binding the cable in it's sheath.
There appears there is no option to re-route it.

I was considering an electric dump valve, but see folks are even having lots of problems with those.

I hope someone has found a cure for my dump valve problem. How about it, has someone got a cure?

Thanks
OB

Gemstone · 09-30-2010, 11:39 PM

We all have the same problem...stupid engineering....wonder if the newer rigs still have the same issue.....

Regards
Gemstone

Stripit · 10-01-2010, 09:13 AM

I was at a rally talking to the distributor of the electric dump valves. He said almost without fail, anyone having difficulty with the valve has it installed incorrectly. The people at the rv plant do not read installation instructions and if it is not positioned correctly, will stick or leak. After talking to him I think when it comes time to replace my manual valve I will go with the electric and read the instructions for install. (I mean: my wife will read the instructions & tell me what to do) :oops:

OB · 10-01-2010, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stripit

I was at a rally talking to the distributor of the electric dump valves. He said almost without fail, anyone having difficulty with the valve has it installed incorrectly. The people at the rv plant do not read installation instructions and if it is not positioned correctly, will stick or leak. After talking to him I think when it comes time to replace my manual valve I will go with the electric and read the instructions for install.

Which manufacturer was being discussed. I'm looking at one made by "Drain Master". Guess we all take a pass on reading the instructions.

Thanks
OB

anijet · 10-01-2010, 07:45 PM

The black valve control finally broke so yesterday I received 2 Drainmaster valves and all the parts to install with two sets of switches. I'll take pictures and post when I install them. First I need to replace all the spring bolts and get the RV off jacks.

Stripit · 10-01-2010, 08:04 PM

It was Drain Master. The fellow said in many cases the mounting area is too tight to install the unit in the correct position, so they(factory guys) rotate it and that allows the valve to trap paper and other things in the rubber seal. If installed right, nothing will become trapped and the valve will seal every time.

OB · 10-02-2010, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stripit

It was Drain Master. The fellow said in many cases the mounting area is too tight to install the unit in the correct position, so they(factory guys) rotate it and that allows the valve to trap paper and other things in the rubber seal. If installed right, nothing will become trapped and the valve will seal every time.

Stacy. I'll get a pair of the drain master valves and hope they can be installed correctly. Thanks for the help.
OB

Carny Bill · 10-02-2010, 09:09 AM

Please let us know how it works out for you, I would like to do the same.

I was thinking about just getting the fitting and mounting the shut off just under the belly of the trailer and leaving the manual valve open.

RGordon · 10-02-2010, 07:17 PM

Another suggestion you might want to look at, I installed a 3" manual valve right at the end cap where you connect your hose. I got tired of the surprises and not knowing whether or not the valves was holding. One of the best additions I have made. Another modification that I made was to install conduit unistrut hangers to hold the 3" pipe steady. The only flimsly strap allows the sewer piping to move back and forth on rough highways, breaking pipe fittings up inside the plastic compartment under the bottom. It also caused the pipe clamps to work loose where they connect to the grey water tank. The stationary pipe hanger stopped all the movement. I got tired of constantly making piping repairs and looking for a hardware stores.

Vern · 10-03-2010, 01:41 AM

Hi Ron

I would like more info on your unistrut clamp mod. I want to put one on mine. Thanks for any info.

Later, Vern

Motor31 · 10-03-2010, 09:42 AM

I'm considering moving the location of where the drain pipe terminates under the rig. I am not happy at all putting the plumbing right next to the tires. That placement leaves the plumbing very vulnerable should a tire fail. It's bad enough dealing with a blown tire on the side of the road much less a broken drain system as well. I really see no reason why the "geniuses" at DRV put the pipe under the slide where it's so convenient to reach it with the slide out. It's like they never have ever used an RV or something.

anijet · 10-03-2010, 11:01 AM

Early on I shortened both pipes from where they exit the underbelly cover and the drain connection. I didn't like the plumbing near the tires or having the connection way under the slide. Now the exit is under the forward edge of the slide and easy to get to with the slide out.

I know they have rules about how close to the fresh water connection the drain can be when they manufacture but I think I can be careful not to contaminate.

I repaired the broken spring bolt (had to replace the spring) so maybe next Saturday I can work on installing the electric valves.

anijet · 10-03-2010, 11:18 AM

Thought I would add a couple of pictures. Forgot to mention the addition of the third shutoff valve close to the connection like RGordon recommended. He's right about it being one of the best add-ons.

The cover is loose because I was checking the broken gray drain control.

47hook · 10-03-2010, 02:44 PM

anijet, do you access the dump valves from that cover you have partially removed or do you have to cut the coroplast belly? Can the electric valves be installed through that cover?

On our previous 5er, an Alfa, it had 3 electric valves (1 black tank & 2 grey) and in 3 years never had a problem. Don't know the manufacturer.

Thanks.

anijet · 10-03-2010, 03:31 PM

The 1.5 inch gray water valve is in the coverwhich is the one that is broken. The 3" black is between the hot water heater and the black tank on our unit. It is accessed from the off door side sliding door in the basement behind the fresh water filter. I want to install the electric valves down stream of the existing valves and just leave them open but if I need to work on the electric valves in the future I can use the existing valves to shut off ahead of the electric valves.

anijet · 10-03-2010, 03:49 PM

Another picture.

Motor31 · 10-04-2010, 09:45 AM

Our black tank valve failed over 3 years ago. The RV service place we stopped at East of Wichita worked us in right off of the road. Great folks and I was very grateful since the frickin black tank had been full when the valve died. The valve had failed at the seals and they replaced it with a standard short handle valve because they did not have any cable valves on hand. I dump the black tank from inside the basement and really that is no problem for me. It's just inside the sliding door and I can also check for leaks or other problems with the plumbing while there. The lack of a cable means the effort needed to operate the valve is minimal and I can flush the tank easily. The grey valve is still on the cable ans I am dreading it's inevitable failure.

RGordon · 10-04-2010, 11:28 PM

Vern, here is the unistrut clamp and manual 3 inch sewer that was added to my system. This finally stabilized the entire system and have had no more broken pipe fittings or leaks. Hope the attached pictures comes through. You had requested a picture!

jas24 · 10-05-2010, 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RGordon

Vern, here is the unistrut clamp and manual 3 inch sewer that was added to my system. This finally stabilized the entire system and have had no more broken pipe fittings or leaks. Hope the attached pictures comes through. You had requested a picture!

Ron,

Where can the unistrut be purchased from?

Thanks

Vern · 10-05-2010, 12:07 PM

Thanks for the picture Ron. I knew what a unistrut was but I was not clear on what you used to get the proper mounting spacing. Did you fabricate the bracket, that is mounted to the frame/floor pan? It looks like there are only mounting bolts on the one end ??

Thanks again, Vern