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Old 12-06-2017, 08:45 AM   #21
wingnut60
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Rockyhud,
One thing to be sure to do when tightening the connections, is to use a backup wrench and do not just try to tighten the hose on the fitting. Use a paper towel to wipe down everything before working--then you will know if the tightening works by using the paper towel again. A white paper towel will immediately let you know if there is any oil seeping out--pretty hard to see around the connections. Good quality open-end wrenches will help--having cheap Harbor Freight units will many times allow slips and will round the wrench surfaces.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:24 PM   #22
Rockyhud
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Thanks for the advise, guys. Dan nailed it with my concerns about stripping the threads or snapping off connectors/fittings and Joe's advise about using backup wrenches (and good quality ones) is what I intend to do as well. Great advise for anyone else attempting this.

The reason I know there are so many leaks is while checking out the RV before the trip home, I used clean white paper towels to wipe off as much leaked fluid as possible after I showed the seller the problem. At that point he called his RV tech guy who suggested we run the slides in and out as well as the landing gear and rear stabilizers up and down, all while watching for any new seepage. Almost immediately I saw red fluid seeping from the pump connection furthest from our position - one that connects to the manifold/spool valve. It appeared at the top of that connector then ran down, becoming more apparent as it did. Once we got the RV home and I went around checking everything again, that's when I noticed more seepage and less fluid in the reservoir. On this last note, with the slides all out and the RV having gone through its auto-leveling routine at home, the fluid level is just at the bottom edge of a black line on the reservoir label - what I presume to be a reference for how much fluid should be in it. As I recall, when checking out the system earlier with the seller and under these same conditions, the fluid level was just at the top edge of this black line. This seems to be excessive leakage to me.

I still intend on going through the system and CAREFULLY tighten all connectors. I think the best method is starting with connections furthest from the pump and working through all connectors toward the pump and reservoir. I didn't see any alternate ideas so I'm presuming this is the best method. It's not going to be easy as there isn't much room in there for two hands and wrenches, but it's gotta be done. Hopefully the weather this weekend will cooperate with warmer temps - too cold now with highs in the low 30s today and high 20s tomorrow.

As for what fluid to refill with, does anyone know if it requires any specific brand or type ATF? I read earlier some use pretty much any universal type and others use synthetic.
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Old 12-06-2017, 01:13 PM   #23
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Fluid level should be checked with ALL slides in and landing gear up. With everything in setup position the level can vary depending on amount of slides.
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Old 12-06-2017, 01:47 PM   #24
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10-4 on the not much room to work.
Any ATF will work, but while at it, full synthetic is probably the way to go--Cummins is using Amsoil and that is a good product to use.
If you come across a line section that won't stop leaking, if possible, remove the section and take it to a hydraulics hose shop--they will make you an identical one of much better quality than Lipperts.
I could never stop the fluid from being present on the connections in the pump area in my '05, yet only had to add extra fluid once in 10 years of use. So don't get too upset if you can't completely dry up the connections, unless it is causing problems with operations. And if I recall correctly, do not use a sealant on the fittings.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:26 PM   #25
Rockyhud
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Thanks again guys. Good things to consider and keep in mind.

BTW, on a different but somewhat related topic, I tried emailing DRV Sales and Parts today, using the email links posted on the DRV website to see if they could provide me a breakdown of brands and maybe part numbers for suspension parts on our rig. The email came back immediately as undeliverable. I then called DRV - their phone number is still the same - and after quickly explaining what happened with the email, I was informed they have combined the DRV and Cruiser RV Parts Dept email to one email address. So, if anyone needs to email DRV for parts, their new email address is "dcrvparts@cruiserrv.com" (without quotes). I resent the failed email from earlier with the new email address. It got sent and I got an acknowledgement email back, saying they'd contact me shortly. Hopefully this might help others who need to contact DRV Parts via email.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:40 PM   #26
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Do you have leaf springs or the Morryde IS?
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:51 PM   #27
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Thanks for the parts contact email--over the years, the results from Doubletree/DRV has been all over the board on how well you get results from them....
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:21 PM   #28
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On aircraft hydraulic systems we often used aluminum conical seals to seal leaking flared fittings. Google Seco conical seals or Earl's Performance Conical Seals. Install and don't over tighten. Will stop leaks unless there is a major problem with either fitting that requires replacement of the fitting or hose end.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:49 PM   #29
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Joe, our rig has leaf springs and Trailair Center Point air suspension. I know the wheels don't have nearly the wheel travel as MORryde IS, but during our trip from FL to CO with the "new" rig I was pretty pleased with how smooth it towed, especially when encountering some bridges that don't have smooth transitions at the ends. Any particular reason you ask?

Anijet, thanks for the tip on Seco and Earl's seals. I will definitely check these out. Just might be the ticket if tightening doesn't quite work.
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Old 12-07-2017, 08:34 AM   #30
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I just asked because if it was Morryde, they are very easy to get info from on their equipment.
I had the Morryde RE (Rubber Enhanced) center suspension on my '05--did a good job til the rubber spring split on one side--but after all the miles and 2 AK trips, I think it held up well. Not familiar with the Trailair.
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