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Old 09-03-2018, 06:00 PM   #21
Dapperdan
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Aw man...... The more I read here the worse I feel about my decision two years ago to switch from oil to grease hubs!

It would appear the techs at MORryde were blowing smoke up my postierer!
Dang......

Dan
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Old 09-03-2018, 06:18 PM   #22
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Dan,
Don't feel bad--just because oil bath hubs are pretty good, doesn't mean DRV/Kodiak will use a good seal...several have had leaky hubs and made the change.
Now, if they were machined/fitted as well as 3/4-1 ton trucks, that would have been different.
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Old 09-03-2018, 07:27 PM   #23
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Thanks Joe, I wasn't having any issues with my oil bath hubs at the time. It's not a huge deal, I just feel bad for "drinking the kool aid". Oh well It's not like I can't convert back if I feel ambitious.

Dan
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Old 11-05-2018, 08:21 PM   #24
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Which is better, mine currently using hard grease. Thinking about switching to 85W90 oil bath.
Have used grease for 20 years in my wheel bearings in my RV's and in my cars and my trucks for 60 years……..stick to grease.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:36 AM   #25
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I bought these US Made seals from AMAZON "National Seal 370219A Oil Bath Seal" They are $24 each. These are nice as the seal stays tight on the shaft and rotates within it's self.

I will post pics of the project when I get around to doing it.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:42 AM   #26
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Ok, need to start a poll: Grease or oil-bath? As mentioned earlier, if the machined parts/seals were as good as the pickups use, probably would be a no-brainer. Cummins has solved the seal problem, apparently. But repacking the bearings every other year isn't too bad a deal--can check the brakes at same time.
If you have the oil-bath already--stay with them and keep up with the potential for leaks.
If you have the grease bearings, stay with them and repack as miles dictate.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:50 AM   #27
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My opinion is if they used QUALITY seals and "O" rings for the center cap they would still be using oil bath as standard equipment.

There are Nitrile "O" rings available that are MUCH more durable then the basic junk they provide.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:59 AM   #28
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Ron,
There are a lot of 'things' that if DRV used quality parts....and quality install....
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:27 AM   #29
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Ron,
There are a lot of 'things' that if DRV used quality parts....and quality install....

So true! My bolt snapped off on the door side of my TrailAir PinBox jaw pivot. Guessing Chinese Grade 8 bolt! Drilled bolt n EZ out n new bolt with some blue LocTite.
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Old 11-06-2018, 10:34 AM   #30
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http://www.theoringstore.com/

Vitons for the 8K and smaller hubs
BV75230; -230 BV75 Brown Viton (FKM, Fluorocarbon) 75 Duro O-Rings
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Old 11-12-2018, 05:47 PM   #31
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Oil vs Grease I got to go with grease. I have seen plenty of oil bath installs and every one was a fixed install with a oil cup. If you use the proper grease and do a proper pack the grease is gonna last, repel water and provide a good solution. Not to say Oil bath is a bad solution but I think for the long haul I would stick to grease...
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Old 11-12-2018, 11:53 PM   #32
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What grease do you use?
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:17 AM   #33
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What grease do you use?
I have several I use, but mostly I use:

Green Grease Full Synthetic waterproof. Or any Full Synthetic waterproof if I am out of Green Grease like Mobil Syn Marine grade. Also if you can find the Extreme, waterproof Mil Spec stuff is good.

The key is the waterproofness of the grease and the Green Grease is about as good as it gets.

Next is the pack. You can do it by hand just takes some time. You pack and rotate the bearings and pack again, rotate and pack again. 3x will do it. If you have a machine then that great, you still want to rotate the bearings.

My challenge on oil bath: Unless the bearing runs full which I doubt then you have an air pocket in the bearing. To run it full then you would need a bleeder valve so when the oil gets hot it can escape.

If it contains an air pocket which most likely it does and you suddenly hit it with cold water the air and oil contracts and creates a temp vacuum and if the seal does not hold it it will ingest water.

If the seal ever fails you lose your oil quickly unlike a grease seal that is a slow fail.

At one time you found oil bath in lots of locations, I have seen many and they all had a oil cup, I have added oil to many of them over my years. You don't see them much anymore because the quality of seals are so much better and so are the greases. Some might remember the days of the trains and the guys who were Oilers, keeping those cups full.
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Old 11-13-2018, 09:55 AM   #34
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I guess the Semi Trucks have issues with oil bath???

Properly done with QUALITY parts the oil bath system is far superior to grease!

We have a clear plastic hub cap with a rubber plug in the center for filling the hub with gear lube.
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:12 PM   #35
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We have a clear plastic hub cap with a rubber plug in the center for filling the hub with gear lube.
One of the service items on the rubber plug was to make sure it is a vented version. Apparently early plugs hd no vent hole leading to some of the issues.
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Old 11-13-2018, 08:48 PM   #36
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Almost every class 8 truck and almost every semi trailer on the road uses oil bath bearings. Almost every one. Exclusively.

Bill
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Old 11-14-2018, 07:32 AM   #37
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Almost every class 8 truck and almost every semi trailer on the road uses oil bath bearings. Almost every one. Exclusively.

Bill
Sorry Bill and others this is not a case of all planes have wings and if they don't they won't fly.

Across the class 8 I would say the majority have oil bath, but far from all. Those that operate in the far N usually have grease and the reason for that is the low temps they encounter.

As for oil bath in semi's, like trains not only does it make sense but it's the most common. That said Class 8 is not exactly a car or a trailer hauling apples. Class 8 IIRC is 33,000 or more, they are also rolling heavy almost every day driving hundreds of thousands miles a year. Good truckers are going to inspect those oil baths at every stop as they are built to be visually inspected from a walk around.

Also you will find that those who haul extreme loads tend to go with grease over oil bath since the grease can handle extreme pressures. Red Line which is some of the highest extreme pressure oil you can find runs about $75 per gallon.

Take away: Oil bath certainly has it's place, it has been in use for over 100 years, but it comes with an overhead of more inspections, maintenance and a higher cost of servicing, you just cannot pour a little 30 wt in there and let it go. If you want to use that is your call but don't do it blindly, know what is involved.

Your wallet, your rig...

Putting a wing on a 5th wheel will no make it a plane!
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Old 11-14-2018, 10:52 AM   #38
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One of the service items on the rubber plug was to make sure it is a vented version. Apparently early plugs hd no vent hole leading to some of the issues.
Yes, thanks for mentioning that!
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Old 11-14-2018, 10:58 AM   #39
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My Dad converted his HitchHiker to Disk's and oil bath. He ran AMZ/OIL SevereGear 75-90 with ZERO issues. It only takes a few ounces per wheel as you only fill to the bottom of the fill plug hole on level ground. I would not be surprised if one quart will do all 4 wheels, heck if its takes 2 quarts that is not much, list price is $18.50 per quart.

He never had a leak one.
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Old 11-14-2018, 01:20 PM   #40
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Find a class 8 tractor and a semi trailer with hard grease bearings and send me a picture of the hubs, then I will believe it. Were you talking about Siberia or where north? Never saw one in the Yukon or Alaska. Walked around 3 truck stops in the last 3 days. Not even the heavy haulers. Not a one. Any one actually use 30w in theirs?

Bill
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