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Old 12-06-2017, 07:45 AM   #21
wingnut60
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Rockyhud,
One thing to be sure to do when tightening the connections, is to use a backup wrench and do not just try to tighten the hose on the fitting. Use a paper towel to wipe down everything before working--then you will know if the tightening works by using the paper towel again. A white paper towel will immediately let you know if there is any oil seeping out--pretty hard to see around the connections. Good quality open-end wrenches will help--having cheap Harbor Freight units will many times allow slips and will round the wrench surfaces.
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Old 12-06-2017, 11:24 AM   #22
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Thanks for the advise, guys. Dan nailed it with my concerns about stripping the threads or snapping off connectors/fittings and Joe's advise about using backup wrenches (and good quality ones) is what I intend to do as well. Great advise for anyone else attempting this.

The reason I know there are so many leaks is while checking out the RV before the trip home, I used clean white paper towels to wipe off as much leaked fluid as possible after I showed the seller the problem. At that point he called his RV tech guy who suggested we run the slides in and out as well as the landing gear and rear stabilizers up and down, all while watching for any new seepage. Almost immediately I saw red fluid seeping from the pump connection furthest from our position - one that connects to the manifold/spool valve. It appeared at the top of that connector then ran down, becoming more apparent as it did. Once we got the RV home and I went around checking everything again, that's when I noticed more seepage and less fluid in the reservoir. On this last note, with the slides all out and the RV having gone through its auto-leveling routine at home, the fluid level is just at the bottom edge of a black line on the reservoir label - what I presume to be a reference for how much fluid should be in it. As I recall, when checking out the system earlier with the seller and under these same conditions, the fluid level was just at the top edge of this black line. This seems to be excessive leakage to me.

I still intend on going through the system and CAREFULLY tighten all connectors. I think the best method is starting with connections furthest from the pump and working through all connectors toward the pump and reservoir. I didn't see any alternate ideas so I'm presuming this is the best method. It's not going to be easy as there isn't much room in there for two hands and wrenches, but it's gotta be done. Hopefully the weather this weekend will cooperate with warmer temps - too cold now with highs in the low 30s today and high 20s tomorrow.

As for what fluid to refill with, does anyone know if it requires any specific brand or type ATF? I read earlier some use pretty much any universal type and others use synthetic.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:13 PM   #23
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Fluid level should be checked with ALL slides in and landing gear up. With everything in setup position the level can vary depending on amount of slides.
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:47 PM   #24
wingnut60
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10-4 on the not much room to work.
Any ATF will work, but while at it, full synthetic is probably the way to go--Cummins is using Amsoil and that is a good product to use.
If you come across a line section that won't stop leaking, if possible, remove the section and take it to a hydraulics hose shop--they will make you an identical one of much better quality than Lipperts.
I could never stop the fluid from being present on the connections in the pump area in my '05, yet only had to add extra fluid once in 10 years of use. So don't get too upset if you can't completely dry up the connections, unless it is causing problems with operations. And if I recall correctly, do not use a sealant on the fittings.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:26 PM   #25
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Thanks again guys. Good things to consider and keep in mind.

BTW, on a different but somewhat related topic, I tried emailing DRV Sales and Parts today, using the email links posted on the DRV website to see if they could provide me a breakdown of brands and maybe part numbers for suspension parts on our rig. The email came back immediately as undeliverable. I then called DRV - their phone number is still the same - and after quickly explaining what happened with the email, I was informed they have combined the DRV and Cruiser RV Parts Dept email to one email address. So, if anyone needs to email DRV for parts, their new email address is "dcrvparts@cruiserrv.com" (without quotes). I resent the failed email from earlier with the new email address. It got sent and I got an acknowledgement email back, saying they'd contact me shortly. Hopefully this might help others who need to contact DRV Parts via email.
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:40 PM   #26
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Do you have leaf springs or the Morryde IS?
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Old 12-06-2017, 02:51 PM   #27
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Thanks for the parts contact email--over the years, the results from Doubletree/DRV has been all over the board on how well you get results from them....
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:21 PM   #28
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On aircraft hydraulic systems we often used aluminum conical seals to seal leaking flared fittings. Google Seco conical seals or Earl's Performance Conical Seals. Install and don't over tighten. Will stop leaks unless there is a major problem with either fitting that requires replacement of the fitting or hose end.
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Old 12-06-2017, 04:49 PM   #29
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Joe, our rig has leaf springs and Trailair Center Point air suspension. I know the wheels don't have nearly the wheel travel as MORryde IS, but during our trip from FL to CO with the "new" rig I was pretty pleased with how smooth it towed, especially when encountering some bridges that don't have smooth transitions at the ends. Any particular reason you ask?

Anijet, thanks for the tip on Seco and Earl's seals. I will definitely check these out. Just might be the ticket if tightening doesn't quite work.
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:34 AM   #30
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I just asked because if it was Morryde, they are very easy to get info from on their equipment.
I had the Morryde RE (Rubber Enhanced) center suspension on my '05--did a good job til the rubber spring split on one side--but after all the miles and 2 AK trips, I think it held up well. Not familiar with the Trailair.
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Old 12-12-2017, 06:53 PM   #31
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Rocky,
I may have missed someone else responding but when refilling the reservoir you should be within 1/4 inch of the top with all jacks and slides in.
Also, add motorcycle front fork oil to the mix. There have been issues with 'Popping noise' while parked. Adding the fork oil eliminated the noise for me.
I also have a 2011 and have seepage. I am glad to have gained some additional knowledge.
I will have to wait for the Spring to work on mine though. Staying home this winter and it is currently 12F and 0 windchill!
Let us know how it goes.

m
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:21 PM   #32
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Hi Mike, and thanks for the tips and info. Interesting comment about fork oil. We haven't owned and been in this RV much yet so we haven't heard any popping sounds coming from the hydraulics but I'll definitely keep my ears peeled for any hints of them. I still have yet to get back to seeing if I can tighten any fittings/connections but the temps have been on the cool to cold side here as well, not to mention that I basically have weekend time to do much work on it. To provide some perspective on the leaks I'm dealing with I attached some photos (below).

I also thought about the process of how I need to do this and do it safely. That said, I've determined I need to hitch the rig to my truck so I can retract the slides and retract all hydraulic jacks. This is not just to get all the fluid back into the reservoir, but also to take the weight off the jacks. If I were to loosen any jack fittings with the RV weight still applied this could release pressure needed to keep it extended and cause an imbalance in the rig. Also, letting pressure be released like that can be harmful - that kind of high pressure can inject hydraulic fluid into human flesh pretty easy if you get hands, fingers or other body parts in the stream - not a good thing at all.

In the meantime, and I'm trying not to take this thread on a tangent, I've also been trying to find out precisely what hubs, bearings, spindles and disc brake rotors were installed on this rig. After we got home with it I discovered the driver side rear hub has some slop or play in it (about 1/8" or so at the tire's outermost sidewall) that isn't apparent in the other hubs, thankfully, but that has also consumed some of the time with this RV. I really don't want to move it any more until this issue is resolve. I'll leave it at that in this thread and may start another thread about this a little later.
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Old 12-13-2017, 08:06 AM   #33
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Steve,
I believe that in '11, DRV was still installing the NevRLube bearings on the 8k axles. If so, these bearing are non-serviceable---they are a unit and sealed. Replacement only, available from Dexter or eTrailer.com---the 50mm larger units. And you CANNOT just replace the NevRLube with a standard bearing, the spindle is different for them.
The 'play' you noticed is the only way to check for wear on these bearings--suggest that you go to Dexter website and look for the NevRLube section for their recommendations.
Joe
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:02 PM   #34
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Joe, thanks for the details on the bearings. So, if I'm understanding this correctly, you're saying that even though our rig has Lippert 8K axles, if the hubs do have NevRLube bearings these are sourced only from Dexter or eTrailer.com? I won't be surprised if this is the case, as I got a response from another online source for RV hubs, bearings, brakes and such, and he told me it's next to impossible for them and other RV parts sellers to determine what any RV was built with as the manufacturers haven't standardized much in these areas, at least not yet. He went on to say the only reliable way to know is to take the hubs and brakes off the rig, then you see what you have to work with. With the other stuff I have to do around the "homestead", and factoring in winter weather and working my regular job (still), this may have to wait until spring time. I count my blessings though - at least we're not stranded somewhere away from home with this issue.
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:51 PM   #35
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Here is what I know about the bearings/axles on the Suites back then--
The axles should be Dexter, altho somewhere along the line, Lippert bought part of Dexter and I don't recall what that involved and when it happened. There WILL be a tag on the axles, but by now it may be lost or just unreadable. If you call Dexter and give them your VIN, they MAY have a record of it.
The Nev-R-Lube bearings were a sure winner until some people began to have failures without warning--several reports on this forum in past posts/threads. It can be quite disastrous when it happens. The biggest problem is knowing ahead of time when the bearing is going out--and your note of 'play' leads me to think it is time to worry about that one and the others also. The only way to check them is the vertical movement--'play'--that you have noted.
The bearings come in 2 sizes and you would want the 50mm larger one for a replacement. Problem in this is the bearings are pressed into the brake hub and basically needs an arbor press to remove/install them properly. I would take this off-season time to research and locate a competent spring/axle shop that knows these bearings and can do the work. You may find the replacement bearings from several sources, not just the 2 I mentioned. Might try to make sure they are US-made, and not the Chinese ones.
I had the NRLs on my '05 and did not have any trouble, altho I replaced them because I had bent one of the axles.
If you are anywhere near LaGrange, IN, I highly recommend Paul Cross for this type of work--he was originally with Doubletree and went out on his own. CrossRV.com

If you want complete peace of mind---contact MorRyde.com to get a quote on getting the Morryde Independent Suspension installed--this is now standard equipment on new DRV trailers.

If I can help any other way, contact me at joedobry@gmail.com

Joe
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Old 12-13-2017, 04:44 PM   #36
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Thank you SO much, Joe. You've been a GREAT help. I will take your advice and call Dexter and if that doesn't work out I'll call Lippert. The axles do have data plates (stickers) showing Lippert information and such. From your experience it sounds like it would be best to plan on replacing all 4 hub bearings (makes sense since they're all the same age and mileage). I have a 12-ton hydraulic press in my garage that has come in handy at times, like replacing u-joints in driveshafts and pressing wheel studs into the front hubs for my truck (changed out the OEM unit bearings for old school lockout hubs and spindles).

I know what your saying about US vs. Chinese bearings - paying a little more for quality parts in these areas is money well spent. I don't relish the idea of doing this work and certainly don't want to have to do it again later because of low quality parts.

UPDATE: Just looking online it may be easier and just a little costlier to buy hubs with bearings already installed, provided I'm looking at the right parts on the Kodiak parts site. I called this afternoon but they were closed for the day so I'll try tomorrow or Friday to see if they can help.
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Old 12-13-2017, 07:01 PM   #37
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That would be great Steve. I would buy one just to have a spare with me.
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Old 12-14-2017, 03:38 AM   #38
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Guessing you already have disc brakes? If you are getting hubs/bearings from Kodiak, ask him for a break on bearings as they told me they were trying to close them out of inventory.
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:59 AM   #39
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DRV actually used nev'r lube bearings on these heavy trailers?
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:30 AM   #40
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Yes they did, because they were heavy trailers. And the vast majority of us had no problems, ever.

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