Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-22-2017, 08:09 AM   #1
traveler
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 110
Slide Problem

I have a 2005 TK3 and the slides and jacks have worked trouble free since I bought it new. 12 years. No leaks. The RV is only used about 6 weeks a year.

But in the past year the door slide has begun, only very occasionally, to push out slowly. Comes in fine. That is, smoothly and strongly. When moving in slow, I can usually open the kitchen slide a few inches, then go back to the door slide and that slide moves much faster.

So, why the occasional (sometimes stopping) slow operating (going out) door slide? If normal speed to open door slide is, say, 45 seconds, slow would be 2 or 3 minutes.
__________________

traveler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2017, 03:00 PM   #2
wingnut60
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
Had the same model for 10 years, never had that happen. Sounds like something in the valving not right. You have checked to be sure the fluid level is correct, and no leaks in the pump area?
Joe
__________________

__________________
2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
wingnut60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2017, 10:09 PM   #3
porkchop
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 382
Lippert recommends changing the fluid every 3 yrs to eliminate water. Type A transmission fluid. Might try that.

Bill
porkchop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2017, 08:59 AM   #4
oldbird
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 299
What is the procedure for changing the fluid?
__________________
Glenn 2008 36TK3 #4571
oldbird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2017, 10:15 AM   #5
porkchop
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 382
Use a suction device of your choice to extract as much fluid as possible from the reservoir. Then add clean fluid to within 1/2" of the top. Then cycle everything several times to get new fluid to most places. Messy job but does not take long.

Bill
porkchop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2017, 11:31 AM   #6
Cummins12V98
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: on the road
Posts: 1,188
Quote:
Originally Posted by porkchop View Post
Use a suction device of your choice to extract as much fluid as possible from the reservoir. Then add clean fluid to within 1/2" of the top. Then cycle everything several times to get new fluid to most places. Messy job but does not take long.

Bill

I would add have all slides in and landing gear up when doing this. Bill I know you know this but others may not.
__________________
2015 RAM LongHorn Dually Air ride Aisin 4:10's

2016 MS 39TKSB3 "Highly Elited"
Cummins12V98 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2017, 11:40 AM   #7
oldbird
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 299
My oil is probably nine years old, I'll have to do this. I might even do it a couple times to get most of the old oil out. Thanks
__________________
Glenn 2008 36TK3 #4571
oldbird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2017, 05:45 PM   #8
wingnut60
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
That's about the only way to change it out--getting all slides in ought to have the fluid level at the highest--suction out as much as possible--add new fluid--cycle all slides several times to distribute the new oil. Repeat once ought to get the % of new to around 50+%
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
wingnut60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2017, 06:41 PM   #9
porkchop
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 382
I called Lippert several years ago and told the engineer that I had a riding mower with a very similar system for motivation and turning the blades. I said that I can run it for hours in the heat and never have to change the oil. How come I have to change it in a system that gets used rarely and never gets hot? He said that is why. Trans fluid will attract moisture and these systems never get hot enough to burn it off. My mower does.
Makes sense.

Bill
porkchop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2017, 07:26 PM   #10
Dapperdan
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Southeastern Wisconsin
Posts: 101
On a similar note, over the years I've owned 4 Goldwings, Honda recommends changing brake, clutch and fork fluids at intervals. All "sealed" systems but still needing replacement! Changing slide/hydraulic fluid sounds plausible to me.

Dan
Dapperdan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2017, 11:01 PM   #11
oldbird
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 299
You guys are convincing! Is there a 'best' trans fluid A? Synthetic or conventional?
__________________
Glenn 2008 36TK3 #4571
oldbird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2017, 04:38 AM   #12
wingnut60
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
You may get differing opinions on what to use, but any automatic trans fluid should work--synthetic would seem overkill to me, since there won't be any temp problems. But it won't hurt, either.
Some have found it beneficial to add 'fork oil' from the motorcycle world as a 'stiction' reducer--supposed to help??
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
wingnut60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2017, 05:51 AM   #13
Cummins12V98
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: on the road
Posts: 1,188
I used AMZ/OIL Universal ATF 100% Synthetic. Can't say it works any better but so far no front landing gear issues.
__________________
2015 RAM LongHorn Dually Air ride Aisin 4:10's

2016 MS 39TKSB3 "Highly Elited"
Cummins12V98 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2017, 08:55 AM   #14
porthole
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 455
Quote:
Originally Posted by porkchop View Post
Trans fluid will attract moisture and these systems never get hot enough to burn it off.
"Hydroscopic" trans oil issues were mostly back in the mid 70's with GM's Dexron ATF. And it was the additives causing the problem, not the actual ATF.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dapperdan View Post
On a similar note, over the years I've owned 4 Goldwings, Honda recommends changing brake, clutch and fork fluids at intervals. All "sealed" systems but still needing replacement! Changing slide/hydraulic fluid sounds plausible to me.
Although brake systems are mostly sealed, DOT 3-4 brake fluid is very hydroscopic. Just removing the covers to check levels can start to contaminate the fluid. That is the reason manufacturers always recommend the use of a new sealed bottle of brake fluid when flushing or adding fluid.
porthole is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2017, 03:34 AM   #15
wingnut60
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
Being a little picky here, but I believe the term for a substance's adsorption/attraction of water is Hygroscopic.

And over a period of time, some moisture in the air-filled portion of the fluid reservoir may condense and allow water to contact the oil. In the ten years I owned my '05, this never became a problem--never a concern with the hydraulic fluid, just the gear packs wearing out. I think I remember adding about a pint of
ATF over that time frame.
But I did have a ram give out while at Paul Cross's place and I am sure he had to replace fluid at that time.
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
wingnut60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2017, 10:10 PM   #16
porthole
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 455
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut60 View Post
Being a little picky here, but I believe the term for a substance's adsorption/attraction of water is Hygroscopic
AH yup and forum software apparently doesn't allow edits after a period of time.
Hygro - Hydro - iPhone picks up both spellings as correct.
porthole is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2017, 06:55 AM   #17
wingnut60
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Where we park it
Posts: 2,838
Seems a little odd that it isn't hydro-xxxx, most everything else to do with water uses hydro-xxxx.
I got corrected long time ago is only reason I know.

Joe
__________________
2016 Tiffin 40 QBH
2015 38RSSA, traded
2005 TK3 #1869, 10 yrs of memories,
2017 F450 KR--one more Ford is it
2009 F450 4x4-died; 2010 F450-retired
wingnut60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2017, 02:20 PM   #18
Rockyhud
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 85
Glad I came across this post as I'm quite sure the original owner of our 5th wheel didn't know about this and never changed the fluid, not to mention that I'm quite sure the reservoir doesn't have the requisite amount of fluid in it now. BTW, is there a specific auto-tranny fluid to use? By that I'm referring to brand (GM, Mopar, Ford, etc.) because they each seem to have "special" ingredients best suited for their respective trannies.

Not to hijack this thread, but our hydraulic system also has some leakage occurring (droplets collecting at the lower-most outside curve of some lines, red fluid visible around some connections and between the bottom of the reservoir and plywood panel it all sets on as well as in the plywood itself). There's even some in the drip pan below. I've not found any definitive info about how to go about tightening the threaded connectors. There are several connection leaks, from the ones that connect the pump to what I refer to as a manifold or perhaps a spool valve to where the various hydraulic lines connect. Would it be a correct presumption that I should start tightening these, starting with the connections farthest from the pump and gradually work my way toward the pump? Does this make sense or is there a better method to follow? Any precautions I should be aware of?

I want to do the work myself so I know more about the RV and its systems. I also want to do the work so I know how well it's been done so I don't have to find out the hard way that someone else over-tightened connections and stripped the threads, making a bigger problem, now or later.
__________________
Steve and LaDonna
2011 Mobile Suites 38TKSB3 #5509
Rockyhud is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2017, 07:03 PM   #19
oldbird
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 299
I found mine dripping so I checked the connections for tightness. All were tight. I believe the drips are from the crimps, I'm not worrying about mine unless they get worse.
__________________
Glenn 2008 36TK3 #4571
oldbird is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2017, 07:20 PM   #20
Dapperdan
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Southeastern Wisconsin
Posts: 101
We had a little bit of that "seepage" thing going on before our visit to Lippert for the front jack replacement too. It wasn't real bad but the techs at Lippert said my fittings were a bit loose hence the leakage. I was VERY leery to tighten those fittings for fear of snapping them off! I had called Lippert a year or so ago to ask about the leaking and was told to be VERY careful if I tried tightening them.

Good luck with your attempt.

Since our replacement job I haven't had any leaks of any kind.

Dan
__________________

Dapperdan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×