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Old 12-24-2016, 02:51 PM   #21
Lewin Kuster
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Yep, lots of damage, but never lost one pound of air. Rode all the way home on steel belts. Damage took off fender skirt trim, insulation under slide out, and the end of the sewer drain pipe. Also strengthener struts that support fiberglass skirts. Never heard a thing nor felt any vibration. Some tire though going 70+ miles on radials.

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Old 12-24-2016, 08:53 PM   #22
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We have bought new G-614 every 5 years. My friend had a G-614 given to him that was 7 years old because he did not believe the 5 year story he installed that tire on his alpenlite. Leaving Seattle he almost made it to Spokane before it blew and damaged his fender. His wife was not happy when she learned of his stupidly.

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Old 12-28-2016, 02:06 PM   #23
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Almost always on multi axle trailers when a catastrophic failure occurs the opposing tire suffers near fatal internal damage. It may fail right away or 100 miles down the road. In all events its life expectancy is dramatically shortened.

I know most of you may know that but it hasn't been mentioned.
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:26 PM   #24
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Goodyear Blowouts

Cal I never heard that before. By opposing, do you mean other tire, same axle or do you mean opposite tire, other axle ? If the later, can you explain why? When the opposing tire suffers near fatal internal damage, can it be felt by removing the tire from the rim and feeling with hand ?
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:52 PM   #25
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I think he ment, when two tires are on the same side of the trailer and 1 tire fails, rapid loss of pressure as in blow out, the weight of that side of the trailer that was supported by 2 tires is now mostly being carried by 1 tire, the one with air. It does stress the tire and stastictics show that that sudden load of extra weights do harm the tire. They seem to fail after a while, that while could be a hundred miles or many thousands of miles, but they seeem to fail.
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Old 12-28-2016, 06:54 PM   #26
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thanks Stacey
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:48 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Suite Sweets View Post
Cal I never heard that before. By opposing, do you mean other tire, same axle or do you mean opposite tire, other axle ? If the later, can you explain why? When the opposing tire suffers near fatal internal damage, can it be felt by removing the tire from the rim and feeling with hand ?
The tire (S) on the same side are stressed more than those on the other side of the trailer.

The Rubber Manufacturer's Association (RMA) recommends dismounting the tire from the rim for internal examination.

Another very good explanation in post # 25.
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Old 12-29-2016, 08:00 AM   #28
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Cal (and Stacey, I hope you'll chime in)
1. In doing the internal inspection, can we expect Walmart tire guys (who i find to be good, though not the best) to know for what to look and be able to spot the prospective failure of the other tire ? Or is it going to be a 'send it to the engineering department of the manufacturer'? Which isn't likely to happen.

2.Is there something specific for which they look, or just anything out of the ordinary ? I'd like the tire mechanic to bring me the tire for a 2nd opinion, but I don't know for what to look.

3. Finally, as I read this part of the link, exposure to failure of the other tire is resultant of catastrophic (blowout) of the first tire - not just a slow flat. It that correct?

Having been through a blow-out, and seen how quickly the body damages reached $3K, I'm thinking it might be foolish economy to do other than replace all tires on one side. But that's dependent on how positive could be the conclusion of the internal inspection.
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:11 AM   #29
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Way back when I had the weighing business weighing RV's by wheel position I used to spend more time than I should have in various tire stores along my routes asking questions. One was how do you inspect tires? Many of the real tire stores that most of us use have for the most part younger and inexperianced employees. Many didn't know what I was asking, the common answer was , well I look at it! From what I found to actually inspect a tire first it needed to be dismounted. Then with a good light source look inside the tire and run your hands over the ribs, looking and feeling for anything that would be not like the rest of the tire. Finding any slight bumps, ripples or humps indicates broken cords, weak cords or a source of impact and can and normally does weaken the internal strength of the tire. Almost without fail, none of these problems are seen from the outside untill it is too late. I use the term cords and that can and normally is the wires built into the tire for strength. The cost to dismount and inspect is a reason most folksdon't do it, thinking the tire looks fine why spend the money and that seems to work for many, but every so often an inspection would catch an impending doom situation before it happens.
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:44 PM   #30
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A “slow” leak that causes tire failures in steel cased tires almost always results in sidewall failure rather than the commonly called “blowout” in the tread area. Such sidewall failures with steel cased tires are referred to as “zipper ruptures”. Sometimes before the tire fails smallish broken steel strands in the sidewall can be seen or felt protruding through the sidewall rubber.

On the other hand, overloaded steel cased tires will normally suffer tread separations very similar to fiber corded carcasses. However, they will not normally blow until part or all of the tread area has left the carcass. A blowout before that happens may be caused by foreign object damage.
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:34 PM   #31
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You two have prompted me to begin keeping a log, by serial number of the tire, and location (on the rig) of the tire, at the occurrence of each tire event. When in route, I'm not willing to pull the other tires, same side, for inspection. But I'd be willing at the next long-term stop to use the leveling jacks to raise the trailer, and take the non-event tires to have them checked out (and to serve as the 2nd opinion, now that I have been alerted for what to look). I'm hoping that by not doing the inspection immediately, that putting some miles on the non-involved tires will allow any problems that will manifest themselves, to begin to appear - the easier to spot.
Stacey - you wrote of younger and inexperienced employees. Too frequently the case. We all want to buy on the basis of price alone, and then there is no money to keep those employees until they are experienced. But the inexperienced also, seem to not care to learn. Just put in their time.
Thank you both for helping me along on this
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:42 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CALinSC View Post
A “slow” leak that causes tire failures in steel cased tires almost always results in sidewall failure rather than the commonly called “blowout” in the tread area. Such sidewall failures with steel cased tires are referred to as “zipper ruptures”. Sometimes before the tire fails smallish broken steel strands in the sidewall can be seen or felt protruding through the sidewall rubber.

On the other hand, overloaded steel cased tires will normally suffer tread separations very similar to fiber corded carcasses. However, they will not normally blow until part or all of the tread area has left the carcass. A blowout before that happens may be caused by foreign object damage.
Very true, and the cause of the slow leak can be many different reasons. This is why I always suggested a Tire Pressure Monitor System to help the driver monitor those slow leaks that "just happened".
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:14 PM   #33
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I'm gonna try and revive this thread and see if I can get some more use out of it. In 2010 when my 5er was 5 years old I looked hard at the OE tires (GoodYear G614 16 inch load range G) and decided they would stand another summer trip. So I loaded up and headed west. Made it all the way to Anniston AL. (150 miles or so) before I had the first blow out. Took out the gas line, the AC power line and some other stuff. I put the spare on and limped to Tupelo MS where I spent 3 days and 20 trips to Home Depot to get everything back together. Best I could do for a new spare was a E rated truck tire but figured it would get me off the highway and to an RV park if anything else happened. A few weeks later I'm in OK and the other OE tire on that side blew out. If I had read this thread I would have expected it. Changed that one and now I'm on an E rated truck tire. I soft pedal to Fort Smith AR and find a truck tire place and get two G114 G rated tires and I'm good to go. As soon as I get back to ATL I find a truck place and go get two more GY 16 inch G rated tires. By 2012 I have studied the tire situation some more and I go for new GY 17.5 H rated tires. Today I'm washing the trailer and I think about the tires. THEY WILL BE FIVE YEARS OLD THIS SUMMER and I'm planning a big trip.

There seem to be two opinions on this thread, "change them before 5 years" and "they are fine for 7 or 8 years". I just spent 1200 bucks getting the axles re-bent and aligned and the tires LOOK great. Besides I think I paid north of 2500$ for the tires and wheels and I don't think I got my monies worth yet. But, on the other hand I don't want to deal with any more blow outs. OPINIONS OR COMMENTS REQUESTED HERE.
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Old 05-03-2017, 08:54 PM   #34
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Something to look at. The G tires that would carry 3,750lbs if inflated to 110psi seemed to be working much harder than a H tire that would carry 4,850lbs at 125psi. What I used to find was the G tire was carrying loads close to the rated max 3,400 to over the 3,750lbs capacity. Take a tire at 3,400 lbs of weight on that G tire, makes it working at 90% capacity where if you put a H tire in its place carrying that same 3,400lbs would only be working at 71%. Less work, longer life. Way back when I was weighing RV's and talking with the tire reps, they used to say the H tire was designed as a work horse and didn't fall into the normal rv tire replacement schedules. I personally would run the H tire at least 7 and might even go up to 10 years, if you know what weights that the tires are carrying. That means you HAVE to get each corner weights, know for sure that the tire is not over loaded or over worked, run correct tire pressures and cover when not being used. Just my opinon.
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:03 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanleyz View Post
I'm gonna try and revive this thread and see if I can get some more use out of it. In 2010 when my 5er was 5 years old I looked hard at the OE tires (GoodYear G614 16 inch load range G) and decided they would stand another summer trip. So I loaded up and headed west. Made it all the way to Anniston AL. (150 miles or so) before I had the first blow out. Took out the gas line, the AC power line and some other stuff. I put the spare on and limped to Tupelo MS where I spent 3 days and 20 trips to Home Depot to get everything back together. Best I could do for a new spare was a E rated truck tire but figured it would get me off the highway and to an RV park if anything else happened. A few weeks later I'm in OK and the other OE tire on that side blew out. If I had read this thread I would have expected it. Changed that one and now I'm on an E rated truck tire. I soft pedal to Fort Smith AR and find a truck tire place and get two G114 G rated tires and I'm good to go. As soon as I get back to ATL I find a truck place and go get two more GY 16 inch G rated tires. By 2012 I have studied the tire situation some more and I go for new GY 17.5 H rated tires. Today I'm washing the trailer and I think about the tires. THEY WILL BE FIVE YEARS OLD THIS SUMMER and I'm planning a big trip.

There seem to be two opinions on this thread, "change them before 5 years" and "they are fine for 7 or 8 years". I just spent 1200 bucks getting the axles re-bent and aligned and the tires LOOK great. Besides I think I paid north of 2500$ for the tires and wheels and I don't think I got my monies worth yet. But, on the other hand I don't want to deal with any more blow outs. OPINIONS OR COMMENTS REQUESTED HERE.
IMO, with those 17.5" tires having been properly inflated and never overloaded you should heed the tire manufacturer's advice on age.

http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/tire-...uidelines.aspx

On edit: That's right, GY is not going to give an age limit for their tires. So, you have to look at an industry standard that limits all tires to 10 years.

A good indicator from any tire manufacturer is the age limit in their warranty packages. Mostly Six Years.
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:33 PM   #36
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Stanley,
I originally put Michelin 17.5s on my past Suites--ran them from about 2008 to 2012. Started a trip to AK and had a mobile tech tell me I had a tread separation. Upon further inspection, there were 2 tires bad, but the tread looked like new. Replaced them all right then. I put Coopers on and ran them til I curbed one and knocked out the alinement, had to replace them prematurely. Put Sailuns on and they were running fine at 2 years and about 20000miles. So, one set of 17.5s made it 4 years, and the others I didn't have long enough to run the time up.
Personally, I would try them longer, but you should have a good shop look at them.
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Old 05-03-2017, 09:36 PM   #37
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So far I like the responses. When I bought these I was thinking I'd get 8 years out of them but today I found this thread and I read where several guys had blow outs on the H rated tires at 5 years. So, I'm wondering.

As to weighing each wheel, I don't know where to do that. Only place I know that has that kind of scale is DOT vans. I have the axle weights and of course neither one is anywhere near the rating of these tires. If I read this right the suggestion is that the tires will be harmed if the pressure is not reduced to match a tire weight below max. That's kinda different from anything I've ever heard. I was always taught that running the tires at sidewall numbers would make the ride harsher but increase the life of the tire. Hence the difference in the sidewall pressure and the door tag pressure recommended by the manufacturer. I'm sure both numbers are required by the feds but it's counter intuitive to me that lowering pressure would increase a tires life. Where would I find a formula for what pressure would be correct for what wheel weight? Or, do I have to do the arithmetic? Man that would make my head hurt.
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Old 05-03-2017, 10:27 PM   #38
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If the tire manufacturers only wanted tires to run full pressure all the time they would not print the air pressure tire guide as to what a tire will carry at what load and tire pressures. When I ran the G tires I ran at 110psi as I was so close to the max load carrying of those tires, but when I upped to H I never ran the max pressure. I ran 5 psi over the amount the guide sugested for the loads I had. This year those tires are 10 years old and the new owner will be replacing them.
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Old 05-03-2017, 11:19 PM   #39
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Where would I find a formula for what pressure would be correct for what wheel weight? Or, do I have to do the arithmetic? Man that would make my head hurt.
There is a tire industry standard to be used when using plus sized replacements.

Because the vehicle manufacturer’s cold recommended tire inflation pressures listed on the certification label/tire placard for the Original Equipment (OE) tires are considered golden by the tire industry, they become the benchmark for all subsequent replacements.

So, using that standard, the cold recommended inflation pressures for the plus sized replacements will be determined by the load capacity the OE tires provided at the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended inflation pressures listed on the certification label/tire placard. You should always set the new recommendation and then add whatever pressures you desire above that to provide the load capacity reserves you want. Never exceed the wheel load capacity or psi capacity or the load capacity of the tire.

NHTSA allows the use of an auxiliary tire placard for plus sized tires. You can hand make one or ask your tire dealer to provide you with one. It should be placed adjacent to the trailer’s tire placard.

A note: Tire manufacturer’s DO NOT set tire inflation pressures. The vehicle manufacturer has done that and all subsequent settings need to be derived from the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations.
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Old 05-04-2017, 02:41 AM   #40
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Stanley,
Do you run TP sensors? If so, they would be very useful if you want to go to the trouble to keep track of how fast the pressure rises from cold over time at lower psi. I believe you will find that the lower you run the psi at any given load, the faster/higher the psi will rise, along with temp, when towing. I do not think you can do much better than run the sidewall max psi (which will be either 120 or 125 for most 17.5s).
We can get caught up too much with specs/opinions/tables/charts--which may be helpful for lower load range tires--but for the 17.5s, just run at the sidewall max and enjoy the trip.
Joe
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