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Old 12-20-2017, 10:43 AM   #71
Rockyhud
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One more update. When talking with Jesse yesterday, to order these parts, he recommended I let him take the order instead of doing so online, as the website apparently doesn't always get things right. As I recall, he said it happened more so with multiple heavier parts, so I took his suggestion and did so. At the time of ordering he wasn't able to give me a total charge as he was going to try to pack 2 hubs in one box to minimize the quantity of boxes shipped. He also advised me the order should arrive at my home in a couple of days or soon after. Without thinking more about this and the impact it could have on shipping charges, I said that sounded fine.

So, later in the day I checked my bank account online and found the charges pending. I was a little surprised by what I presumed the shipping charges amounted to, increasing the total more than I had initially guessed it would be. So, thinking about this, I think what happened, and logically so, is that Jesse understandably thought since I had been talking with him about a failed/failing hub, that I probably needed them sooner than later, so I'm speculating that he shipped these 2-3 day UPS or FedEx to make that happen. Had I been more attentive to his remarks, I would have advised him that I didn't need them expedited, which I believe would likely have reduced the shipping cost and total cost. So the higher cost than expected is really my fault for not letting him know I didn't need them shipped fast.

So, just my 2 cents on this, if anyone else contacts Kodiak to order these hubs, to get one or more before they're no longer available, let them know whether you need expedited shipping or not.
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Old 12-20-2017, 10:49 AM   #72
Cummins12V98
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Steve, does the NRL bearing have to be pressed into the hub, I think so anyway. Are you getting all yours pressed in by Kodiak? If you haven't bought the pads yet I believe you would be better off with NAPA's 'best' pads, works good for me and I think they are better then Kodiak's pads. I think I'll get in tough with Jesse about getting at least one spare. If more then one goes I'll switch to Mor/ryde IS. Thanks for posting, what is Jesse's number?

Kevin at Kodiak told me years ago they don't sell "quality" pads and it's best to buy a quality brands best quality Semi Metallic pads for a late 80's Buick century HD.
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Old 12-21-2017, 02:21 PM   #73
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charges pending.
Charges pending are not always the final amount. Any chance they just ran the card to make sure the funds were available first, with the corrected amount showing up in a day or two?

If not, it's not just on you. They know the difference between UPS ground and 2nd day etc. Should have offered you the option.
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Old 12-21-2017, 05:12 PM   #74
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Charges pending are not always the final amount. Any chance they just ran the card to make sure the funds were available first, with the corrected amount showing up in a day or two?
Nope. Our credit union often shows VISA payments pending in amounts like this before they're actually applied to the credit card account - for the same amount as shown pending.
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Old 01-21-2018, 02:20 PM   #75
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FINAL UPDATE: Several weeks ago I had time and decent weather and was able to replace the wobbly wheel hub/bearing/rotor and brake pads on the off-door side rear axle. The actual work wasn't bad at all. A few weeks after that, while replacing some spring eye and shackle grease zerks with 45-degree zerks and greasing all wet bolts, I had time to raise the tires on the door side off the ground and give the wheels and tires a good wiggle test. I was pleasantly surprised to find the front had absolutely no play. The rear had barely, and I mean barely, perceptible play - so little that I spent more time rotating the wheel a little at a time and repeating the wiggle test. According to documentation from Lippert The amount of play I was barely detecting was well within the limits of acceptability. That said, I will definitely keep this wheel in mind and check more periodically so I don't allow it to cause problems. I still have 3 more hub/bearing/rotor assemblies for replacement when needed.

So, back on topic, we had nice weather and time to hitch up and take the rig out for a test run yesterday to see if there was any abnormal sound coming from the rig during tight turns. Before the hub replacement, I had heard some mild metal-on-metal screeching sound from the rig during tight turns on our trip home from FL. It was only during tight turns, due to the higher side load on the rears, as there were no unusual sounds when rolling through wide turns and going straight. I was very pleased to NOT hear anything but the normal sound of tires scrubbing a little during very tight turns.

So, it appears all hubs and bearings are good to go for the foreseeable future. It's also reassuring to know I have 3 more new hubs if/when the time comes for repairing the other wheel locations.

Thank you to all who provided good info to me (and others) while I was sorting things out.
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Old 01-21-2018, 02:44 PM   #76
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Steve,
Would it not be better to have all four hubs/bearings on the trailer new and keep one of the old ones for a spare? I'm thinking the oem bearings lasted 6 years, probably that much left with 4 new ones?
In 6 years, if you still are enjoying the trailer, then time for new axles with the bearing of your choice...
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Old 01-21-2018, 04:58 PM   #77
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Certainly good points to that reasoning and factors I have considered. However, this coming summer we're planning to setup and live in the rig on our kids property nearby for 1-3 years while I finish out my career and they get their property ready for sale, so the rig won't get many miles on it until after that. If our plans change and we do wind up traveling with it more in the near term I'll certainly revisit that plan and likely put the new hubs and bearings on and hang onto a couple of old ones for spares. Both front axle units would be good for that purpose.
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