Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-28-2007, 11:34 PM   #1
2 DA WDS
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Illinois
Posts: 527
Long running furnace & wheres the sensor

This weekend was our first campout with our current MS RE3 where the temperature got in the low 30s. I started out using the heat pump and discovered that apparently when it gets too cold it automatically switches over to the furnace. No big deal, kind of impressive. But, the furnace would run for quite a while then shut off for a minute or less then start up again and run for quite a while and then shut off for a minute and so forth. With all the insulation I am supposed to have I didnt think this was operating correctly but it did maintain a set temperature.
Is this the experience others have had in cold weather. When I had my Cardinal 5er the furnace didn't run nearly that often.
Also, I went looking for the temperature sensor in the lower level. I see the one in the bedroom under the cabinet above the window but for the life of me could not find one in the lower level. This is an 05 RE3 #1646. My other MS was an 05 RE3 #1850 and the sensor was under the cabinet to the left of the television. Can anyone tell me where the sensor is in this one?
Help me out here if you can.
__________________

__________________
Happy Trails To You
Tom & Cheryl Brockman S.O.I.T.C. Charter Member
2015 39DBRS3, Truma water heater, 2inch lift, custom paint
2011 RAM Cummins 3500 Dually
2 DA WDS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2007, 09:05 AM   #2
rverdlm
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: On the road
Posts: 1,063
First, I'm curious why your '06 has a lower number than your '05? The furnace issue does not seem normal to me. How is the air flow from the ducts? Is there any off time or does it just mostly run the whole time it is cold? Is the air coming from the ducts quite warm or just tepid? Have you checked the air coming from the outside exhaust? It should be to hot to hold your hand in for more than a moment. There are all kinds of protection (safety) sensor in the furnace and it seems like one of them is shutting the furnace (flame) down. It could also be low gas pressure. Try lighting the stove while the furnace is running. I had a furnace problem a while back (can't remember the symptoms) and when I tried to light the stove while the furnace was running the stove flame was almost non-existent. The problem turned out to be that liquid propane had gotten into the top tank valve (from my tipping it when putting it up onto the platform) and I was getting almost no gas to the furnace. The solution to that was for me to bled gas from the tank by loosening the screw on (green hand one) fitting from the tank. If you do it carefully and hold it in just the right position you can hear it escape. After doing this a couple of times everything work right. Now I'm very careful to keep the tanks as near vertical as possible. When it's in the 20's our furnace runs less than half time. It runs a while then shuts off for a somewhat longer time. I have not actually put a timer to it, but the off time is enough longer that it's obvious. Hope this helps.
__________________

__________________
Dave & Barbara
KenWorth T2000
2005 Mobile Suites 38RL3 #2338
MorRyde IS 8K axles, LazyBoy recliners, LCD tv
Full time since '96
rverdlm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2007, 09:27 AM   #3
2 DA WDS
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Illinois
Posts: 527
TYPO

Thanks for pointing out the '06', it was a typo. It is an 05. I'll wait for some cold weather again and go check the things you mentioned.
__________________
Happy Trails To You
Tom & Cheryl Brockman S.O.I.T.C. Charter Member
2015 39DBRS3, Truma water heater, 2inch lift, custom paint
2011 RAM Cummins 3500 Dually
2 DA WDS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2007, 09:27 AM   #4
Stripit
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Home Prescott, Az
Posts: 1,019
Send a message via AIM to Stripit Send a message via MSN to Stripit Send a message via Yahoo to Stripit
The living room sensor in our '04 is the thermostat itself.
__________________
2013 Tiffin Allegro 34 QFA
2015 Cadillac SRX (towed)
2019 Tesla Model X
1991 Avanti Conv
Stripit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2007, 10:35 AM   #5
rdunk
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 482
On our 05 RE3, the temp sensor for the kitchen/living area is also on the bottom of the cabinet above the rear desk.

I guess it could be that the factory might have just failed to install the rear temp sensor?? Hope you find it!
__________________
Robert

Robert and Carlene

2005 RE3, S/N 2107 (sold Jan. 2010)
rdunk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2007, 07:51 AM   #6
Gemstone
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Boydton, VA
Posts: 443
I found that major air leaks in our unit were contributing to high energy useage, both heat and air conditioning. I stuffed the floor gap along the kitchen slide with a dense foam rubber, my utility bill went way down, and the units worked more efficiently. I now stuff any gap I can find with foam...just gotta remember to take them out when it's time to move!

Regards
Gemstone
__________________
No longer on the road.
Gemstone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2007, 08:42 AM   #7
Motor31
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 2,130
Check for notches cut into the seal for the bottom of the kitchen slide. Instead of using something to prevent the slide seal from being caught in the roller and keeping the seal intact, MS cut notches in it. This allows free flow critter, dirt, light and air circulation through the bottom of the slide in at least 3 places. I end up stuffing mine with rags at this time to stop this "feature". I'll graft on some additional seal material to close the "feature" in November or December when we are static for a couple months.
__________________
Mike Nancy and the fuzzies
Fulltiming since June 2004
Volvo 660 MH tow vehicle
2005 MS 38RL
2007 Saturn Ion "toad"
2010 Gold Wing "piggyback"
Motor31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2007, 08:56 AM   #8
rverdlm
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: On the road
Posts: 1,063
I think Stacy has it right. Your sensor is in the thermostat. Putting a separate sensor in the living room was a '05 running change. I remember when we did our tour while our unit was on the line this was mentioned as something relatively new.
__________________
Dave & Barbara
KenWorth T2000
2005 Mobile Suites 38RL3 #2338
MorRyde IS 8K axles, LazyBoy recliners, LCD tv
Full time since '96
rverdlm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2007, 10:09 AM   #9
2 DA WDS
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Illinois
Posts: 527
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stripit
The living room sensor in our '04 is the thermostat itself.
Is your thermostat mounted on the wall across from the shower?
__________________
Happy Trails To You
Tom & Cheryl Brockman S.O.I.T.C. Charter Member
2015 39DBRS3, Truma water heater, 2inch lift, custom paint
2011 RAM Cummins 3500 Dually
2 DA WDS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2007, 01:45 PM   #10
Stripit
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Home Prescott, Az
Posts: 1,019
Send a message via AIM to Stripit Send a message via MSN to Stripit Send a message via Yahoo to Stripit
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 DA WDS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stripit
The living room sensor in our '04 is the thermostat itself.
Is your thermostat mounted on the wall across from the shower?
Yep. We figured it out by running bedroom a/c colder than living a/c with door between rooms closed. Living a/c shut off when bedroom temp reached arctic, but living room was still warm. We thought it was broke Remedy was to make sure bedroom isn't colder than desired temp in living room.
__________________
2013 Tiffin Allegro 34 QFA
2015 Cadillac SRX (towed)
2019 Tesla Model X
1991 Avanti Conv
Stripit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2007, 07:22 PM   #11
bstark
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fergus, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 1,000
Another item to consider: the right angle sheet metal fitting that connects the plastic round ducting to the duct for the bedroom has fallen off a number of units and simply allows the majority of airflow from the rear of the furnace to heat your service area in the basement
__________________
Sandra, Bruce
bstark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2007, 07:30 AM   #12
igotjam
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Varies
Posts: 105
bstark is right. Happened to mine and another one I met.
__________________
2008 F-450
Aftermarket Brake Controller
2007 ES 36RE3 # 3702
igotjam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2007, 08:37 AM   #13
hitchup
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Currently: working on the road
Posts: 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by igotjam
bstark is right. Happened to mine and another one I met.
Ditto here. We just retaped ours this week. It finally got cold enough in MD to use the furnace & no air was coming through the bedroom vents.

The Mobile Tech guy who serviced our furnace said it should have been nailed in. But David just retaped it for now.
__________________
2014 Mobile Suite Estates 38RSB - custom home
2014 F450 KR CC 4x4 ...... his office
2015 Lance 1172 - traveling Motel (solar and generator)
Working Fulltimers since 3/2005
hitchup is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2007, 06:29 AM   #14
Huck
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bouse, Az./Franklin,Pa.
Posts: 252
Send a message via ICQ to Huck
Quote:
the furnace would run for quite a while then shut off for a minute or less then start up again and run for quite a while and then shut off for a minute and so forth. With all the insulation I am supposed to have I didnt think this was operating correctly but it did maintain a set temperature.
Is this the experience others have had in cold weather. When I had my Cardinal 5er the furnace didn't run nearly that often.
I too have the problem.
My furnace seems to run constantly. It only shuts off for a minute or so at a time then starts right back up. And the air dosen't feel very warm when it cycles so fast.
My heat pump does the same thing.
I think we need a new thermostat that lets the temp. drop a couple degrees before it starts the heat back up.

I think that there is not enough temature veryation.
I also think that it makes the furnace waste alot of heat by not letting the heat exchanger get very hot while most of the heat just blows outside from the exaust.

My sensor is above my desk, in the left rear..
__________________
Huck & Dodie
2005 RE3 MS #2163
2006 F-350 CC 4X4
Huck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2007, 06:32 AM   #15
Huck
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Bouse, Az./Franklin,Pa.
Posts: 252
Send a message via ICQ to Huck
Quote:
the furnace would run for quite a while then shut off for a minute or less then start up again and run for quite a while and then shut off for a minute and so forth. With all the insulation I am supposed to have I didnt think this was operating correctly but it did maintain a set temperature.
Is this the experience others have had in cold weather. When I had my Cardinal 5er the furnace didn't run nearly that often.
I too have the problem.
My furnace seems to run constantly. It only shuts off for a minute or so at a time then starts right back up. And the air dosen't feel very warm when it cycles so fast.
My heat pump does the same thing.
I think we need a new thermostat that lets the temp. drop a couple degrees before it starts the heat back up.

I think that there is not enough temature veryation.
I also think that it makes the furnace waste alot of heat by not letting the heat exchanger get very hot while most of the heat just blows outside from the exaust.

My sensor is above my desk, in the left rear..
__________________
Huck & Dodie
2005 RE3 MS #2163
2006 F-350 CC 4X4
Huck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2007, 12:47 PM   #16
bstark
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fergus, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 1,000
From what information being provided; furnace running but not heating unit enough to trigger thermostat shut-down, I would suspect the problem is with the furnace and it's supply ductwork to trailer. There really shouldn't be any problem with the air coming from the furnace being warm as these furnaces are at least 35,000BTU's rated by D/T to produce 42,000BTU's through the use of a redesigned (tapered) plenum duct on the rear of the furnace. A run time of a few minutes should result in you noticing very warm air from floor ducts in living room/kitchen area.

A furnace that is running but not producing heated air that is almost too warm to stand with a bare foot on the floor grills is not functioning correctly and should be checked out viv-a-vis burner performance.

I would start my investigation by checking the ductwork right at the rear end of the furnace and if it's very hot there, following the plastic ducting to their respective connections to the metal floor ducting. If there is not significant heat right at the rear of the furnace you have a burner/gas supply problem.
__________________

__________________
Sandra, Bruce
bstark is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×