Quote:
Originally Posted by OneReallyOldGuy
Ok guys, here comes my 2¢ worth since I am obsessed with weights. I have a 2019 39DBRS3 with the 1/2 bath. Love it BTW, only small regret is going with the double sinks in the front bath. Single sink would have given us more counter space.
The sticker on the door says it was 17,400 lbs. when it left the factory. We bought it with no furniture so that is plausible. RV’s For Less took it to Lambrite to pick up the furniture and then they installed the cheap heat system among other things. I brought my own king sized sleep number mattress and they set it up for me. Out the door with dry tanks and full propane bottles, 18,380 lbs.
I weighed it a couple of months ago with all our junk in it plus between 10 and 20 gallons of water spread out in the tanks. Fuel and DEF amounts on board the truck weren’t considered either so these numbers aren’t perfect.
4,080 lbs. pin weight
16,600 lbs. axle weight
20,680 lbs. trailer weight
I have mentioned in another post that I put stabilizer jacks at the rear of the coach to take the wiggle out, and with the amount of real estate behind that rear axle I have to be very mindful of the “swing” when turning. I’ve also grounded out the trailer hitch on the rear of the unit once. It saved the rear cap without a doubt.
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Same 39DBRS3.
Ours was 19,140 from the factory. Extras that add weight are diesel generator, washer and dryer, 3000 magnum inverter 3 AC’s, MOR/ryde sliding tray, fiberglass roof and others.
The trailer hitch adds 6-8” less “attack angle” clearance, depending on where you measure.
Without the hitch you would probably never come close to the cap.
I have bottomed out on the end turning onto an uphill street near my house.
I have bottomed out the receiver chain hook plates in my driveway. I have since welded on bogey wheels. These take up almost 3” of the clearance, but at least backing square into my driveway I can roll up.
The trick is always try and meet the interference square.
What stabilizer jacks did you add? I have the electric rear jacks from our previous toy hauler I’m thinking of adding to minimize the bounce. My Cyclone trailer had a wider frame then the DRV, so I have to weld on some mounting plates.
I am beginning to think this trailer needs the front axle moved to behind the rear axle, re-do the J-wrap and trim. Heartland had a Big Horn model that had similar pin weight and stability problems. They (at the urging of the NHTSA) recalled 132 units and moved the axles.