[bstark]

Jerry or Joyce as the case may be; you're dead right. Simply unplugging the thermistor at it's contacts of the circuit board will duplicate these symptoms as the board defaults to "constant-on".

Testing procedure: set the fridge to propane so you will feel heat or hear burner ignite and remove the thremistor from it's cooling fin attachment and dunk it into a glass of ice/water mix. Within seconds, the burner should shut down.

If you are handy with a volt/ohm meter I believe the ohms resistance should be in the neighbourhood of 8400 to 9300 ohms across those thermistor leads when unplugged form the board and warm. I'm quoting those resistance figures from memory and they may not be correct but a "search" should give you confirmation of values.

You can use your meter for testing thermistor in reverse; since your fridge is already freezing things, put a meter across the contacts for the heating element or the solenoid valve (first is 120v, second is 12v) and have someone open the fridge and put the thermistor between their fingers to warm it up and either the heating element should become live (if fridge is on 120) or the solenoid valve for burner propane should show voltage. If neither happens it's a safe bet your thermistor has given up the ghost. Of course, if your fridge is already constantly running you're not going to see these results.

Purchase another and plug it into the board in place of the old one and try the Ice water test to get the burner or element to shut down and you'll have your confirmation.