[porthole]

My experience.

I have the same driveway issue, and with the crown of the road it is amplified.
I have to dump the hitch air and truck air to enter the driveway and then once all the wheels are on the driveway I air both up to clear the rails when I get to the top where I park.

Even with that the rear overhang was so much for the first 4 months of traveling I was running up on boards to get in and out of the driveway. Final workaround was 12' long, 3 boards high and 10" wide, along with spacers under the gaps. Heavy and awkward.

Eventually had wheels welded on to the trailer hitch. That helps a lot and fortunately we have a concrete driveway, so the wheels only leave marks, not gouges.

My F-350 with the previous trailer and only about 400 pounds less pin weight had a horrible ride with certain trailer loads (was a toy hauler).
What I found was that when the ride was bad due to loading it was that the frame was just hitting the overload brackets, and hammering.

On my next truck unless I can afford a Kelderman I will probably remove the overloads and supplement with bags.

Something else to consider. At Hershey last year Classy Chassis had one of their bodies on a Ram 5500. Was a nice truck except for the plain white paint.
Tom (the owner) had changed the rear suspension. I don't remember the exact numbers, but he removed like 5-7 leafs from the spring pack and then used air bags to supplement the suspension for loading. He said it gave the ride of a 1500 unladed and still carried the weight.

I have a TS-3 and I like the concept, I just don't like the lack of grease fittings, availability of parts and the general overall attitude of the guy who runs it, Aaron.

When all is good it is gives the trailer a cushioned ride, resulting in a less harsh ride of the truck.

I have made a few changes to the TS-3 and one of them is the ability of raising the hitch to gain about 4-6 inches of extra clearance of the bed rails when needed.