[Motor31]

Rodeworthy,

The job is not difficult, just a bit tedious in dealing with the smaller windows in the rig. I would not really want to tackle the big window in the rear cap by myself. Those things are heavy. If you take your time it should take you about 2 or 3 hours to do the job and you only need a second person for the actual removal and replacement parts of the job. Almost all of it is a single person task. Given what RV shops are charging for labor (most well over $100 an hour) you'll save a BUNCH of money and be sure it's done right.


Removal is simple. Remove the window dressing and hanging trim. Then remove the wooden trim around the inside of the window. It's nailed in so you need a small prybar a rag for anti marring purposes (on the wall) and take your time. Once the window trim is out you'll see the entire window is held in by a bunch of screws around the periphery of the frame. Those screws hold a metal trim that applies pressure to the wooden framing the window is mounted in. Remove the screws (about a dozen plus for a small window). Then locate the pressure points where there is a shim centering the window in the hole. Gently start to press out the window frame. Make sure there is someone on the outside to hold and catch it.

I cleaned up the slide wall from the caulk I applied (small exacto knife with chisel blade and mineral spirits) and took off the old foam rubber "gasket" that was stuck to the window. I used a double layer of putty tape (Ace Hardware store stuff) on the curved window frame that mates to the slide wall. The putty tape is made for sealing windows and door frames especially in mobile homes and does not get rock hard.

The window was then replaced in the slide and held in place until I got the screws back in their holes. I then slowly tensioned the screws all around twice to get a good seal. Some of the putty tape will ooze out. I also looked for and then put more putty tape into the areas where the tape was not oozing to prevent any gaps. That slide wall and window are not plumb. Big surprise there! (roll eyes)

Once the window is back in place I left the interior window trim off and sprayed water (gently) around the window looking for leaks. Fortunately the next day it rained so I got an all day test of it.

You can also use the DAP non leveling (important kind for vertical use) caulk seal to go around the edge of the frame for additional sealing. I'm waiting until the weather gets a bit warmer to make sure no more putty oozes out first.

You may want to get some canned expanding foam to squirt around the inside of the window frame area if there are largish gaps as there is no real insulation there, just a wooden and aluminum frame around the window. Use the less expanding foam not the max expanding foam and use it sparingly.

You will also need to get a nail gun with finishing nails to replace the window trim on the inside. That is the only "special" tool that a normal RV'er may not have.