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Old 02-17-2010, 02:50 PM   #13
cptxguys
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 179
Terry and Jo,
We started out with a Rockwood 5er and have since purchased 2 DRV products. We have both a Mobile Suite (36TK3) and an Elite Suite (36RS3). I’ll give you my perspective on the questions that you’ve asked. I’ve provided them at the end of each question.

We will be getting the Level-Up system with remote (We don’t have it but wish we did!), the side by side refrigerator (a nice option, particularly with the ice maker), upgraded TV to Sony Bravia (we have it and enjoy it), “Theatre-Seating” recliners with center console (we have the leather option and find them to be very comfortable), built in fireplace (we don’t have it, but you will find it useful on cool nights/mornings to supplement the gas heat. Particularly if you are in a campground with electric power, you can save on your propane use. We us a ceramic heater), GE Advantium microwave (we’ve had both the Advantium as well as the convection microwave option. I like the convection microwave better as it has racks in the oven for multiple items/pans. Our Advantium has no racks. Unless you’ll be cooking with the halogen light a lot, it’s an expensive option that will rarely get used. Yes, I made brownies in 7 minutes, and that was wonderful, but we haven’t used it since!). 3 burner range with oven (This is particularly helpful if you get the Advantium oven). It also gives the greatest flexibility – Advantium or Convection on Electric; Range on Propane). Select Comfort queen size bed (we find the pillow top mattress to be quite comfortable. Unless you have issues with comfort, I don’t see the benefit), 2nd 15.0 BTU A/C with heat pumps in both (We have them on both RVs. In Texas and Oklahoma, we keep cool in 100 degree heat as well as we find we use hardly any propane in the winter unless it drops below freezing) Comfort Air w/rain sensor and remote for kitchen and bathroom (They are nice and work well. We never had a problem and a nice way to ventilate the RV - particularly with the wall thermostats) washer/dryer prep with vent. (This provides the greatest flexibility for the type of unit you want – ‘all in one’ or a stacked unit. We have both types (one in each RV). I prefer the space saving of the all in one, the ‘leave and forget it’ convenience, and particularly like the efficiency of the front loader, so even if we aren’t hooked up to city water, I can do a load of laundry without worrying about using up all the fresh water of filling the grey water tank) Power Management System, whole house surge protector (both good ideas to protect your system), Canadian All Weather package with two 30,000 BTU furnaces (I’d look to see if you can order the package and get just 1 furnace. Unless you’re really going to be in cold climate, you won’t need both. Especially with 2 heat pumps. If you do, you’re going to need LOTS of propane!), Trailair suspension and pin box (have them, like them, wouldn’t be without them. Makes a big difference in tow vehicle ride quality). Tire Pressure monitoring system (I’d go with after market, unless you need to including it into some package financing), back up camera system (good idea, not sure that I’d want one unless it could be built into my navigation systems. I wouldn’t want an additional screen for how little you will use it), four step entry steps (helpful for getting in/out) and thermopane windows (makes a big difference on not only heat loss, but limits noise from outside).

1. We first deleted the fourth slide. While the vanity slide will give a bit more walking space in the bedroom, plus some more hanging space in the closet, it comes at the cost of storage space in the “dresser” drawers, overhead storage, and extra cabinet space to the left and right of the window. Saved nearly $2200.

It may give you additional room inside, but don’t forget that it takes up room on the ‘patio area’ outside. I too would delete that from the option list.

2. The central vacuum was another choice to delete. For the $400 listed for that, we could buy a small Dyson “ball” upright that has more “flexibility” and better suction than what a long vacuum hose would necessarily allow.

I personally like it, but an easy option to ‘cut’.

3. Slide topper awnings were another to delete. My thinking is that with the Oklahoma winds, that is something that wouldn’t be getting torn up and flapping in the wind. As for cleaning the tops of the slides. I can always use a ladder from the ground and sweep them off.

Well…we use ours at our ranch in OK (Stillwater). Yes, the wind can make things a bit noisy with them flapping, but I wouldn’t be without them. They are a benefit to help keep rain/snow off the room (less likely to get leaks), keep debris off the roof (keeps them clean and the dirt/debris from coming inside when closed), and they create a sun shield from the hot sun in the summer. We’ve had some heavy winds here in OK, and we’ve never had a problem with rips/tears/damage. I’d reconsider on that one if I were you.

4. Dinette slide patio awning was next. A powered one is $1994 and a manual one is $908. We’re just not sure how much the additional awning would be used.

We will have the one running from the entry door forward. We have the manual dinette slide. We use the front awning for our outside ‘patio’ area and the dinette awning for a picnic table. We also use it when tailgating at football games, since we tend to have more guests.

5. We also decided to delete the Winegard Trav’ler HD Auto Satellite for Direct TV. That was another $2500. We figure we can always use the normal DirectTV dish on a tripod. That would give us the added flexibility to be able to move the dish around for a better shot at the satellite.

I’ve used both the auto satellite as well as the tripod dish. You’ll use the dish about a dozen times and realize what a pain in the neck it is to use. If I had to do over, I’d look into a portable satellite disk (such as the VuCube). You can get the convenience of auto satellite, with the benefit of being able to move the satellite, should you be parked under trees or something.

6. In addition to the above, we plan on getting the Xantrex 3000 Watt Inverter w/four 6-volt batteries. That one leads to the question for the “electrically minded” individuals to kindly answer. If we delete the Onan 5500 Marquis Gold generator we can save$6070, although I’m considering to still get the “Generator Prep-Auto Change Over” option for $654 should we later decided to add the Onan. We currently have a Honda EU3000IS rated at 3000 watts and I think 25 amps. While I know that this generator won’t run any of the air conditioners, it would still work for heating and lights, etc. Does anyone know if this generator would be “heavy” enough to still be able to recharge the batteries in the Xantrex 3000 Watt inverter? If it would manage but take a long time to charge, thus making it ineffective or inefficient, please let me know your thoughts on that as well.

I think I can help you on this one. I’ve had ‘standard’ power systems (no inverter or generator), portable generators, Xantrex inverter, and Onan generator. Depending on the type of camping that you do, will determine the ‘best’ option for you. For us, the only answer was the Xantrex Inverter AND the Onan generator. Here are some things to think about. The inverter is 3000 watts and it will only power ½ of the power distribution panel in the RV. There are 2 110V legs of power in the RV. 1 leg will be wired ‘direct’. The other leg with run through the inverter. Therefore you will only be able to power SOME items in the RV. It also is not strong enough to power high power items such as the AC units. Even though one of the AC units must be on the inverter power leg (because the 2nd AC is on the other). Now onto the generator. With the Xantrex AND the Marquis generator, the systems are integrated and you can take advantage of the generator autostart feature when the batteries become low. It auto starts/stops, which is great when shore power is not available. You can get more info on this at http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/87/p/1/pt/7/product.asp

The generator will also power both A/C units, and all other RV electrical items. We find that when tailgating at sporting events we can run our our AC devices (refrigerator, lights, TV, etc) overnight on the 4 6v batteries before recharging is required (about 8 hours). Your EU3000IS will charge the batteries and power other AC devices in the RV. It takes us a couple of hours to recharge the batteries from 10.5 volts to 80% of charge (the settings of the generator autostart). This occurs in the mornings and we take advantage of using the generator to run the coffee pot and hot water heater as well. By the time our ‘morning events’ are over, our batteries are charged for the day. If you’re going to be plugged into shore power most of the time, then the inverter and generator are not necessary. I will also advise you to get a gasoline powered generator. Gasoline is more readily available than propane and also provides more power per gallon than propane. Our gasoline Onan 5500 uses about ½ gallon of fuel per hour. We have a 10 gallon tank that we carry in the bed of the pickup and connect to the quick connect on the generator.

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask additional or clarifying questions.

Robert
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Robert Raab / Bruce Waterfield
2010 Ford F-450 Harley Davidson Edition
2007 Doubltree Elite Suite 36RS3 #3756
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